The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Jobothegreat1]

I have plenty item profiles in stock.

 

[mechsicko]

I'm not a printer expert but since this place has been quiet lately I will offer you this advice. Since your calibration cube isn't perfect I would start with calibrating the printer.I don't know how to calibrate it but you should visit a printer forum or subreditt. For the outside dimension of the slider was a bit to big, so I just sanded them down to fit snug inside the profiles. The other parts should be less critical.

It's a pain but well worth doing.. most printer's stock settings are good but juuust enough to make bearings not fit, at worst aren't even in the ballpark. The reason for this is variables in the motors and mechanics from manufacture that lead to minute differences in their outputs that accumulate error. You need to be able to flash the settings on your printer, so first you need a 3rd party program that can do it. I use Pronterface.. lightweight, free and does what you need it to.

Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software

www.pronterface.com

Start by calibrating the extruder, everything downstream is affected by this so ensure it's proper first.

https://mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration


Next follow this guide for x/y/z (has links to test objects in guide..) I found 20mm cubes to be great but also used 100mm xyz thing too. Since error is cumulative, the larger your sample the more pronounced it is

https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/


...it's a tedious pain in the ass but once it's done it's done and it's super nice to be able to reliably print dimensionally accurate without altering models to compensate or spend hours sanding.

 

[roundabout]

Edit: I'm a doofus The slider part has two inner diameters and the test part had the smaller one for the ball screw so naturally this won't fit the shaft.

Howdy, I got my SFX-100 parts a year ago but right at the time the SimFeedback had put the program on "pause" and I lost all enthusiasm for starting the build. Now finally I've gathered enough energy to start the build and I guess I'll just have to use the basic version of the software as I don't really know anything about the sponsor thingy...

Got my Prusa Mini working but when printing a test slider part it fits quite snugly into to the aluminum profile but the inner hole diameter is like 28mm while the hollow shaft outer diameter is 30mm. How is that the slider fits into the profile but is not dimensionally correct(?) for the shaft? Anyone had similar experiences? I used the SimFeedback stl files and sliced them directly in Prusaslicer.

The test slider print measures 50.7 - 50,8mm wide, and the inner diameter 28,3mm. The M4 screws ID measure ~ 4,2 - 4.3mm.

My 1 cm calibration cube measures 10,0 - 9,98 - 10,21 (the first layer extra?), 025 mm layer height.
Prusament PLA.

(oh and if there's a better place to ask about building / printer issues can kindly guide me to the correct place. there's a lot of info to shift through..)

I had the same issue and found a comment somewhere by Spikar regarding a modified .stl which he had produced. He sent this to me and has confirmed OK to share.

Slider reduced 50.5 larger holes

I have printed these and they seem to fit well in profile and tubes fit in slider but I have yet to fully assemble and test.

I had a similar issue and this modified slider stl resolved it.

 

[Crammed]

Well after long last my parts to assemble my SFX actuators have arrived!!! I feel like a kid at Christmas time!!!

For those of you wondering, Skye at NTL Bearings (Aliexpress) is still supplying parts for these things and she has been absolutely fantastic answering my questions, providing suitable STLs, customizing parts, and sourcing additional parts. I highly recommend her!!

 

[Crammed]

Well a few days into my build.. so thankful for all of the information contained within this forum. I just want to put it out there for specifically anyone who is considering the Chinese components from Amy at NTL.. the equipment is a little bit different and I have had to do a few different things so far in relation to installing the thread inserts into the extrusion.. some bolts I was supplied have been the wrong size.. and I have had to modify some bolt heads to fit the STLs that she sent through.. no biggie, and it keeps within the DIY spirit.. but it’s just more information available if anyone wants it.. I am so excited to be finally undertaking this project, however I feel a bit late to the party… all the same, it’s new to me so let’s get our SFX on!!!

 

[Crammed]

Ok so a little progress update / check in. I have everything assembled and mounted to the rig.. and everything works!! Thanks to all in this forum for their experience and learnings. It has really made my sfx experience a breeze thus far. I would be keen to join up the discord channel if anyone reading this would be so kind as to sponsor me..

 

[Crammed]

Hey guys!! I am right now at the stage where I am looking to explore the tuning options and possibly unlock expert mode (if that is even a thing anymore).. Would anyone be so kind as to sponsor me as an owner builder?

 

[Namake_HU]

Does anyone have a working SimFeedback profile for AC/ACC with Abs settings?

 

[thenic123]

Has anybody thought of making the sliders out of OILON PA6 ?

 

[mechsicko]

Has anybody thought of making the sliders out of OILON PA6 ?

Yes there was a guy in Poland I believe that was offereing batches of aluminum cnc end caps along with machined Oilon sliders. They probably work great however with as many SFX completed the normal way in constant operation with basically no one having troubles with printed sliders it's basically a solution looking for a problem.

 

[thenic123]

Was just wondering if it's any benefit from making it out of OILON.

 

[Lebois]

Hi guys ! I just created a specific slider for the profiles from Components Explorer. They come already threaded, in aluminum or black.
The slider is available here.

 

[racer9146]

Hi All

Old sim racer from the GPL days who got started back in with AC a year ago..

Just dropping a note that I have started my build. Ordered the profile from Kinetik. Got the PCB from @Pyronious . Emailing with Amy of NTL. I have made it to page 200 of the thread. Also looked the web pages with all the great content. Pretty experienced DIY/electronic tech and work in IT so looks all do-able to me. I have a sim lab p1 so that part is taken care of. No experience in 3D printing but have been thinking of getting one for a while so this is a good project to get accustomed to that with. This looks fun !!!

regards Daron

 

[superfell]

Now i've got my actuators fitted to the rig, one of them is clicking when lowering the rig (but not when raising). It seems to be once per rotation of the ballscrew. I took the motor off and ran the actuator up and down by hand and there's no clicking then, and i bench tested the actuator + motor combos before mounting and it was fine then as well. Any ideas what this might be?

 

[superfell]

Now i've got my actuators fitted to the rig, one of them is clicking when lowering the rig (but not when raising). It seems to be once per rotation of the ballscrew. I took the motor off and ran the actuator up and down by hand and there's no clicking then, and i bench tested the actuator + motor combos before mounting and it was fine then as well. Any ideas what this might be?

The motor ran fine on its own as well, so it can only really be the coupling. I reseated the coupling on the motor shaft and that seems to have fixed it.

 

[TheTarman]

Hello peoples,

I'm in desperate need of help! I think I’m having EMI issues, but have tried so many different things, I’m at my wits end with trying to sort it.
My main problem is I am running a Pimax 5K+ (and a Vive Pro), which loses tracking when I turn on the platform or touch the headset, much like the same as everyone else who has reported the issue on this forum.

The things I have tried to mitigate:

Added an EMI filter to the power line leading to the control units

Replaced all the power cables with shielded cable and grounded them into the controller unit side.

Added ferrite cores to all USB cables and the servo power leads

Spread the cables out at much as possible, and away from the rig as much as possible

I bought an EMI meter to test the shielded cables, and found something interesting, though don’t know if it is relevant

Front Left	Front Right
Rear Left	Rear Right

When sitting idle, the front left and right are emiting pretty high EMI; whereas the rear two are sitting doing next to nothing.

Can anyone suggest any sort of solution before I pull the remainder of my hair out?

 

[Insert Coin]

Hello peoples,

I'm in desperate need of help! I think I’m having EMI issues, but have tried so many different things, I’m at my wits end with trying to sort it.
My main problem is I am running a Pimax 5K+ (and a Vive Pro), which loses tracking when I turn on the platform or touch the headset, much like the same as everyone else who has reported the issue on this forum.

The things I have tried to mitigate:

Added an EMI filter to the power line leading to the control units

Replaced all the power cables with shielded cable and grounded them into the controller unit side.

Added ferrite cores to all USB cables and the servo power leads

Spread the cables out at much as possible, and away from the rig as much as possible

I bought an EMI meter to test the shielded cables, and found something interesting, though don’t know if it is relevant

Front Left View attachment 502584	Front Right View attachment 502585
Rear Left View attachment 502588	Rear Right View attachment 502590

When sitting idle, the front left and right are emiting pretty high EMI; whereas the rear two are sitting doing next to nothing.

Can anyone suggest any sort of solution before I pull the remainder of my hair out?

Swap the servo cables at the driver side (just for testing) to see if the EMI emission moves with it?

 

[TheTarman]

Swap the servo cables at the driver side (just for testing) to see if the EMI emission moves with it?

So are we talking moving the front left to the rear left?
at the servo side? or the controller side? I'm an idiot

 

[Insert Coin]

So are we talking moving the front left to the rear left?
at the servo side? or the controller side? I'm an idiot

For example, yes.

 

[TheTarman]

For example, yes.

I switched the cables around; and now both front left and rear left are showing EF is off the scale, like before.
I'm reading these numbers like I know what I'm doing; I don't; I just figure really high numbers aren't good =/