The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

ksero · Oct 27, 2021

Freeon said:
Some one has to sponsor you. Your sponsor needs to verify that your build is legit and advise saxxon. You will then be put on his approved list. If your not on his list the donation is usually refunded.

OK! thanks!
to look for it has been said!

racer9146 · Nov 1, 2021

racer9146 said:
Got my profiles from Kinect today with no issues
ordered 9/1/2021
received 9/22/2021
Got a email immediately after order, one when shipped with DHL tracking, product look great and was well packaged

Almost done with all my 3d printing. Got a Ender 3 v2 and used Cura to slice. I did 30% infill which increased my time but so far its all going well and 3d printing is pretty fun

Did get a artifact/line about 1/3 of the way up the top bearing mounts but nothing to worry about. The seem pretty solid

Still waiting on motors/controllers via NTL/Amy but with the shipping port backlog in USA it may be a while...

Used Matte Black car vinyl to wrap my profile's to match rig. Will print 3d covers for the channels. You can get shorter pieces of wrap off eBay. Cheaper than quality spray paint.

Also wanted to add my sliders fit perfectly in the profile. Just a slight drag with no lubrication. I read over various forums people where struggling with this. One thing that caught my eye was the recommendation of using a "hammer" drill to tap the threaded inserts into the aluminum. Dont do that. If you do that you are not cutting threads, you are "pushing" aluminum and decreasing the clearance for the slider. It wont take much to make so the slider wont move without sanding/filing. Your mileage may vary but I recommend using a adequate length ratchet and lubrication and slowly turn the threaded inserts in.

thosirl · Nov 3, 2021

Are any of you mounting triple 32's onto your motion rig?
I've got with floor standing triple 32's but 900mm distance to allow for motion clearance.
Want monitors closer, but worry about damaging monitors bouncing around on Dirt Rally 2.0 profile if I mount them to the rig itself
Sim Lab P1X rig, it seems they don't recommend the integrated mount for 32s at all, let alone with motion.

HoiHman · Nov 3, 2021

racer9146 said:
One thing that caught my eye was the recommendation of using a "hammer" drill to tap the threaded inserts into the aluminum. Dont do that. If you do that you are not cutting threads, you are "pushing" aluminum and decreasing the clearance for the slider. It wont take much to make so the slider wont move without sanding/filing. Your mileage may vary but I recommend using a adequate length ratchet and lubrication and slowly turn the threaded inserts in.

This is the best and easiest way to mount the threaded insert

thosirl said:
Are any of you mounting triple 32's onto your motion rig?
I've got with floor standing triple 32's but 900mm distance to allow for motion clearance.
Want monitors closer, but worry about damaging monitors bouncing around on Dirt Rally 2.0 profile if I mount them to the rig itself
Sim Lab P1X rig, it seems they don't recommend the integrated mount for 32s at all, let alone with motion.

There are SFX uses who have a triple screen mounted on the rig, but most dont.

If you do want to mount on the rig you have to adjust your profiles so they are less violent and make sure the monitors are well supported all around. A vesa mount along will not be sufficient.

I run a 49" ultra wide on the rig for more than 2 years now without any issues.

thosirl · Nov 8, 2021

HoiHman said:
There are SFX uses who have a triple screen mounted on the rig, but most dont.

If you do want to mount on the rig you have to adjust your profiles so they are less violent and make sure the monitors are well supported all around. A vesa mount along will not be sufficient.

I run a 49" ultra wide on the rig for more than 2 years now without any issues.

So what is more than VESA? You mean some other way of attaching to the monitor itself?
I can see how I can make the whole thing more rigid, and support the outer arms for the side screens.
It looks like it comes down to the 4xM4 on the monitor itself, or the 2xM6 on the Sim Lab VESA mount to the alu frame.

racer9146 · Nov 10, 2021

racer9146 said:
Almost done with all my 3d printing. Got a Ender 3 v2 and used Cura to slice. I did 30% infill which increased my time but so far its all going well and 3d printing is pretty fun

Did get a artifact/line about 1/3 of the way up the top bearing mounts but nothing to worry about. The seem pretty solid

Still waiting on motors/controllers via NTL/Amy but with the shipping port backlog in USA it may be a while...

Used Matte Black car vinyl to wrap my profile's to match rig. Will print 3d covers for the channels. You can get shorter pieces of wrap off eBay. Cheaper than quality spray paint.

Also wanted to add my sliders fit perfectly in the profile. Just a slight drag with no lubrication. I read over various forums people where struggling with this. One thing that caught my eye was the recommendation of using a "hammer" drill to tap the threaded inserts into the aluminum. Dont do that. If you do that you are not cutting threads, you are "pushing" aluminum and decreasing the clearance for the slider. It wont take much to make so the slider wont move without sanding/filing. Your mileage may vary but I recommend using a adequate length ratchet and lubrication and slowly turn the threaded inserts in.

View attachment 514633

my order from Amy at NTL arrived. Ordered 9/14/21 and arrived 11/9/21 in California. Well packed and all looks correct. Amy was fantastic with responses. Took a while but considering all the worldwide logistic challenges I am happy.

racer9146 · Nov 10, 2021

HoiHman said:
This is the best and easiest way to mount the threaded insert

Its the best and quickest if you want a inconsistent inner dimension on your profiles. Wont matter in reality but I still would not use a hammer drill. To each his own.

HoiHman · Nov 10, 2021

thosirl said:
So what is more than VESA? You mean some other way of attaching to the monitor itself?
I can see how I can make the whole thing more rigid, and support the outer arms for the side screens.
It looks like it comes down to the 4xM4 on the monitor itself, or the 2xM6 on the Sim Lab VESA mount to the alu frame.

The vesa support is only made out of thin sheet metal which might crack, so i added support all around (8 places in total)

Imho the extra supports on the sides and the top are crucial

racer9146 said:
Its the best and quickest if you want a inconsistent inner dimension on your profiles. Wont matter in reality but I still would not use a hammer drill. To each his own.

Here the explanation of the difference between a hammer drill and an impact wrench.
https://home.howstuffworks.com/difference-between-hammer-drill-and-impact-driver.htm

Pretty sure this way has no impact at all on the inner diameter of the profile.

thenic123 · Nov 15, 2021

There's a new type of servo controller with no whine being emitted for $299 on the PT Actuator website, No whine controller

Freeon · Nov 16, 2021

thenic123 said:
There's a new type of servo controller with no whine being emitted for $299 on the PT Actuator website, No whine controller

Also available from NTL-Bearing. Just got an email from them.

JohnBeardmore · Nov 16, 2021

Freeon said:
Also available from NTL-Bearing. Just got an email from them.

How much from NTL?

Freeon · Nov 17, 2021

JohnBeardmore said:
How much from NTL?

Don 't know. They just sent me an email because that's were I bought mine. Send an email to Amy at skye@ntl-bearing.com. Super nice and helpful. You can get pretty much everything for the SFX build from her.

D0hne · Nov 18, 2021

Just finished and mounted my actuators. When I STOP in SimFeedback all 4 lower, one actuator seems like right at the end it tries lowering too much then clanks audibly back up a few mm.
Any ideas? Hardware related I guess.

Freeon · Nov 19, 2021

JohnBeardmore said:
How much from NTL?

$210 USD with motor and 3m shielded cable.

thenic123 · Nov 19, 2021

Freeon said:
$210 USD with motor and 3m shielded cable.

Does that include Shipping?

Freeon · Nov 20, 2021

thenic123 said:
Does that include Shipping?

She didn't specify but I assume it's plus shipping as my original order was quote plus shipping. Also it comes with shielded cables, which I believe are more expensive than the regular ones.

ksero · Nov 21, 2021

thenic123 said:
There's a new type of servo controller with no whine being emitted for $299 on the PT Actuator website, No whine controller

but the link is for a 80ST, no it's a same model with original project ( 90ST), no? or works same?

racer9146 · Nov 30, 2021

Got mine finished up last night and took my 1st test drive. The default profile was way too "bumpy" but after tuning things down a bit and turning off "rumble heave" and "rumble rumble" (not sure what difference is) the motion started to feel very good. I dont notice the "traction loss" effect too much but overall I am very happy. It definitely adds a lot to the sim experience. You start to understand the effect of the track surface on whats happening with the car.

It took me months to build mine but for me everything worked correct right away. I did have to reset/tighten a coupler that i noticed was not extending all the way after usage and left the rig "tippy" (on 3 legs)

My build is pretty standard on P1X rig. I printed all my stuff on Ender 3v2 with very little problems. I was reluctant to start another hobby (3d printing) but now really enjoy it and found many uses. FYI CAD software can be a steep learning curve. Windows 10 includes "3D Builder" which is very simple and gets the job done quickly and easily for most simple brackets. I made a nice e-stop holder using this software.

I used the Pyronius board for the Leonardo. Many thanks to him for this great piece of the puzzle.

Probably the only place I deviated from normal build is the placement of the motor controllers and wiring the power. The P1x has the tall side rails so I mounted the controllers in the seat box on aluminum plates suspended from rubber mounts. The controllers are running on 110v and wired independently each to a power-strip (with circuit breaker) with individual outlet switches built in along with a master switch. I used 3 -wire power cords for wiring. All wires are strain relief-ed several times and chassis is grounded. I am also adding plastic insulation plates between the inside of rig and the wire side of the controllers just to be sure.

After running for about 2 hours there was no noticeable heat coming from motors or controllers so 110v seems to work fine. I do hear the 10k whine but when using the rig it does not bother me. I am 54. My wife who is close in age does not hear it. My teenage sons notice it but are not bothered either. Its definitely a noticeable sound but not a deal breaker for me.

No interference or usb-drop out issues for me yet. I home run all USB to motherboard.

Many thanks to the SFX community and the 2 guys who created detailed blogs.

http://www.bogdanberg.com/

SFX-100 motion sim platform guide - RowanHick.com

www.rowanhick.com

Daron

darknight26 · Dec 1, 2021

Great build with great cable management. Mine is a mess and I'm about to remove the seat and alu base to tidy it up as it's driving me mad! Desperately seeking a sponsor for discord - will anyone sponsor me please?
Here's a link to my build:

https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/darkknights-sfx-100-build.15811/

thenic123 · Dec 10, 2021

Bought, Received and Installed four of the new "no whine" white drivers. Performed a quick power up and connect and so far, no 10khz noise.

They should of designed drives this way to begin with. Now I've got 4 spare.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

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