The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Anyone tried out Nolimits 2 on the SFX-100/Simfeedback. I'm able to get it running but I feel like the movement is just too slow. I've lowered the smoothing down to 0 on everything and even bumped the intensity to the max but I feel like the transitions take too long and doesn't feel as immersive as it should. Maybe just the tracks I tried didn't have good telemetry cause it also just seems like there isn't any bumps or vibrations like you would feel on a roller coaster.

I was hoping to use it as a demo for anyone who doesn't want to drive in a simulator but I think it'll just give them VR nausea. Any other suggestions for demos that would be good to show off the SFX-100 that are passive are welcome as well.
Are other games working ok?

There is the Windows timer issue, so worth looking at this:
 
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Are other games working ok?

There is the Windows timer issue, so worth looking at this:
I don’t think that’s the issue as Automobilista 2 works great. But it sounds like that extension has no downside to try out so I’ll give it a shot.

The movement I’m having in Nolimits 2 just feels like smoothing is being applied even though I have it set on 0. It might just be how it is though, I’ve watched some YouTube videos and they look about the same.
 
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Anyone else run passive seat belt tensioners on their SFX-100. I just installed some on mine that are on springs attached to a board under the back feet. It works great under breaking so very happy with it there. But I was wondering what people do about pitch causing the seat belts to tighten even more. Specifically a track like Laguna Seca on the cork screw can be uncomfortable after I’ve tightened down the belts to give a great breaking gforce.

I guess a couple options are to lower the pitch intensity but I would rather raise the braking effect. I couldn’t figure out the individual setting however. Maxing out heave and then surge didn’t seem to increase the breaking force.
 
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I used to run passive belt tensioner and had the same issue. I think the only option is to decrease pitch. This is why i switched to active. Way better.

Yeah I’d hate to give up as much pitch as I had before hand but I think you’re right. Which active unit did you go with and any other differences that make it an improvement over passive?
 
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Yeah I’d hate to give up as much pitch as I had before hand but I think you’re right. Which active unit did you go with and any other differences that make it an improvement over passive?
I looked at a few ideas I found and kind of made my own version. The improvement over passive is that it eliminates the issue you have.
 
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I have tried my 6-point harness with my NJmotion Compact-R seat mover. It feels good, inmersive and not too uncomfortable. It makes your body stick to the seat and feel the motion better. However, I find the idea of passive seat belt tensioners with springs almost unnoticiable, although I must confess I have not tried attaching the seat belts to the motion platform. I notice that the seat belts tend to slide a little on my shoulders instead of pushing me against the seat. Maybe I could try with stronger springs or maybe letting my harness not so tight...

arnes1.jpg


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I notice that the seat belts tend to slide a little on my shoulders instead of pushing me against the seat. Maybe I could try with stronger springs or maybe letting my harness not so tight...
The springs I put on mine are huge compared to those. Honestly, it was a situation where I ordered some off amazon not knowing exactly how big they were and was surprised when they came in. But in use, they've actually been pretty good. I mostly got them as a safety mechanism but wanted them pretty strong under normal operation so it wouldn't hamper with the sensation. I read one post where a guy put a passive harness on his SFX-100 and bolted it with no springs. Seems like a broken hip or collar bone waiting to happen.

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The springs I put on mine are huge compared to those. Honestly, it was a situation where I ordered some off amazon not knowing exactly how big they were and was surprised when they came in. But in use, they've actually been pretty good. I mostly got them as a safety mechanism but wanted them pretty strong under normal operation so it wouldn't hamper with the sensation. I read one post where a guy put a passive harness on his SFX-100 and bolted it with no springs. Seems like a broken hip or collar bone waiting to happen.

View attachment 486190View attachment 486191
Do you have a link to the springs? Or a spec for the springs?
 
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Anyone know how to tune profiles? I need help tuning my belt tensioner. It works great in ACC but haven't been able to get it to work in Dirt 2 or RF2 even though I copied the settings from ACC. Below screenshot 1 it tightens under acceleration and does nothing under braking. Second screenshot it loosens under acceleration and does nothing under braking. I turned on real data but no idea what I'm looking for. Red line shown below is stopped on the track. under acceleration it decreases towards the left and disappears under breaking. Anyone know how to tune this?
 

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I have been wanting to do a SFX-100 build since I learned about it around a year ago and I now that I have built my 3D printer, I'm ready to get going on my motion build. The size of this tread now is pretty intimidating and am I'm not sure the best place to start. I have read chunks but... Am I best off just starting at the beginning and reading everything? Any of you recent builders have somewhere you would recommend I start if I don't need to go through everything?

I am also a bit nervous about getting a sponsor. I am happy to give a real donation as I really am grateful for what he and the community built for everyone. However, at least for periods of time, it seems like it was hard for builders get full access. Maybe that is all sorted out now, I understand why it happened and feel bad about how things played out but I have not stayed up to date on all of that and am not sure where things currently stand. I see that people are still building their own systems though. Before I order the extrusion and actuators, I guess I was just hoping I could find out if I would still be able to gain premium access or whatever.

It also sounded like you need to get an invitation to the Discord for the build. If anyone could help me figure that out, I would appreciate it. It looks like maybe I need to build first and document that I am building it myself, which I am cool with. I just want to do things right and I am not sure how to do that just yet but reading through this whole tread to get up to date would take me some serous time where I am guessing some of you can point me the right direction quickly.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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I have been wanting to do a SFX-100 build since I learned about it around a year ago and I now that I have built my 3D printer, I'm ready to get going on my motion build. The size of this tread now is pretty intimidating and am I'm not sure the best place to start. I have read chunks but... Am I best off just starting at the beginning and reading everything? Any of you recent builders have somewhere you would recommend I start if I don't need to go through everything?

I recently completed my build so can tell you what I did and how it went. You are correct this thread is too long to read fully through. Obviously you’ll know more but you’ll have to decide if it’s worth your time. I found the best help was a few blogs that people wrote documenting the process.




I am also a bit nervous about getting a sponsor. I am happy to give a real donation as I really am grateful for what he and the community built for everyone. However, at least for periods of time, it seems like it was hard for builders get full access. Maybe that is all sorted out now, I understand why it happened and feel bad about how things played out but I have not stayed up to date on all of that and am not sure where things currently stand. I see that people are still building their own systems though. Before I order the extrusion and actuators, I guess I was just hoping I could find out if I would still be able to gain premium access or whatever.

From what I can tell there is no way for new builders to get access to the discord or the full version of the software. I will say I didn’t need the discord as there is plenty of good info here and in the links I sent. The base software is usable but when I added a passive seat belt tensioner I ran into issues that needed better software to fix. I ended up just buying a thanos controller so if I were you I would either go straight to that or budget it in, incase you aren’t satisfied with the base sim feedback software.

I’m actually far happier with the thanos / sim racing studio combination so I’m glad I ended up landing on this instead of getting full access to sim feedback. It seems to do a much better job relaying g forces to the rig in a way that helps my lap taps vs what I was getting out of sim feedback.

It also sounded like you need to get an invitation to the Discord for the build. If anyone could help me figure that out, I would appreciate it. It looks like maybe I need to build first and document that I am building it myself, which I am cool with. I just want to do things right and I am not sure how to do that just yet but reading through this whole tread to get up to date would take me some serous time where I am guessing some of you can point me the right direction quickly.


Thanks for the help everyone.

Again I don’t think you’ll be invited to the discord but if you read through those blogs and search for any specific issues in this thread I don’t think you’ll need it. Some things I would have changed if I could do it over would be to order shielded cables for the motors / servos. I only found out that was an option after I built my rig and ran into EMI issues. Also if you are in the US running on 110v you don’t need an inverter, the servers can run directly off it if you change a setting on them. For some reason this is discussed elsewhere but not on the official SFX build docs.
 
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@Clover11 Here is info I can provide.

Send an email to Amy at skye@ntl-bearing.com and ask for a quote for SFX-100 parts. She will send you quote for most of the parts. Motor, drives, bearing etc. It was a few bucks more than the suggested site from SFX website but all from the same vendor so easier. Just keep in mind you will have to pay duty on the parts. As for the aluminum extrusion get the Item24. Way less painful than the kinetic profiles. These extrusions are slightly different. Instead of the threaded insert like kinetic these need to be tapped. You can tap the threads yourself or you can order from them pre threaded. Also look here https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/ for 3d printed part changes and a few other small changes. I believe they now also offer aluminum extrusion but personally would stick with item 24, but that's your choice.

Get an SFX shield. Replaces a few of the original parts. Makes cleaner and simpler wiring solution. https://opensfx.com/2019/04/09/sfx-100-shield/

As for the Discord the only way you can get an invite is by making a donation, which requires a sponsor.
 
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Sent off an email to Amy and requested a quote from item24 as well. Really looking forward to this. Not just the motion simulator but also the build. Going to be picking up a few skills on this one but it all looks doable to me at the moment. While I was getting a quote for the extrusion from Item24, I mocked up a design in my head for inverting my HE Sprints. I know there are multiple designs out there and I probably should have just copied one of those, but it does not seem super complicated in my head and I figured I might as well order all the profile I want now in one go instead of paying for shipping twice.

Thanks gigq and Freeon, I appreciate the help.
 
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Edit: I'm a doofus :D The slider part has two inner diameters and the test part had the smaller one for the ball screw so naturally this won't fit the shaft.

Howdy, I got my SFX-100 parts a year ago but right at the time the SimFeedback had put the program on "pause" and I lost all enthusiasm for starting the build. Now finally I've gathered enough energy to start the build and I guess I'll just have to use the basic version of the software as I don't really know anything about the sponsor thingy...

Got my Prusa Mini working but when printing a test slider part it fits quite snugly into to the aluminum profile but the inner hole diameter is like 28mm while the hollow shaft outer diameter is 30mm. How is that the slider fits into the profile but is not dimensionally correct(?) for the shaft? Anyone had similar experiences? I used the SimFeedback stl files and sliced them directly in Prusaslicer.

The test slider print measures 50.7 - 50,8mm wide, and the inner diameter 28,3mm. The M4 screws ID measure ~ 4,2 - 4.3mm.

My 1 cm calibration cube measures 10,0 - 9,98 - 10,21 (the first layer extra?), 025 mm layer height.
Prusament PLA.

(oh and if there's a better place to ask about building / printer issues can kindly guide me to the correct place. there's a lot of info to shift through..)
 
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Edit: I'm a doofus :D The slider part has two inner diameters and the test part had the smaller one for the ball screw so naturally this won't fit the shaft.

Howdy, I got my SFX-100 parts a year ago but right at the time the SimFeedback had put the program on "pause" and I lost all enthusiasm for starting the build. Now finally I've gathered enough energy to start the build and I guess I'll just have to use the basic version of the software as I don't really know anything about the sponsor thingy...

Got my Prusa Mini working but when printing a test slider part it fits quite snugly into to the aluminum profile but the inner hole diameter is like 28mm while the hollow shaft outer diameter is 30mm. How is that the slider fits into the profile but is not dimensionally correct(?) for the shaft? Anyone had similar experiences? I used the SimFeedback stl files and sliced them directly in Prusaslicer.

The test slider print measures 50.7 - 50,8mm wide, and the inner diameter 28,3mm. The M4 screws ID measure ~ 4,2 - 4.3mm.

My 1 cm calibration cube measures 10,0 - 9,98 - 10,21 (the first layer extra?), 025 mm layer height.
Prusament PLA.

(oh and if there's a better place to ask about building / printer issues can kindly guide me to the correct place. there's a lot of info to shift through..)
I'm not a printer expert but since this place has been quiet lately I will offer you this advice. Since your calibration cube isn't perfect I would start with calibrating the printer.I don't know how to calibrate it but you should visit a printer forum or subreditt. For the outside dimension of the slider was a bit to big, so I just sanded them down to fit snug inside the profiles. The other parts should be less critical.
 
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