The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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What are the solutions to stop this rig from moving sideways etc.
I picked up a set of 4 rubber feet from clark rubber but still having issue with it moving on big movement (concrete floor).They aren't the same rubber feet suggested in the parts list but I assume they'd do the same job.
Any ideas?
Will post a video of it shortly.
 
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Thought I’d go ahead and print a slider whilst I wait for parts to arrived any measurements I can cross check or is it best to just offer it up to the parts (when they arrive).

As you can tell I’m being impatient, twiddling my thumbs lol
 
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Thought I’d go ahead and print a slider whilst I wait for parts to arrived any measurements I can cross check or is it best to just offer it up to the parts (when they arrive).

As you can tell I’m being impatient, twiddling my thumbs lol

It would be wise to print a Sample of the slider to test fit and size based on Extrusion multiplier if needed, ( dont need the whole slider, just the first 1/3 or so. ) if you want even more accurate test, print Half a slider.
 
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Thought I’d go ahead and print a slider whilst I wait for parts to arrived any measurements I can cross check or is it best to just offer it up to the parts (when they arrive).

As you can tell I’m being impatient, twiddling my thumbs lol

Wait for the profiles, you need to fit the sliders in them.
But already done with all the other parts?
 
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I don’t have an apartment, but my rig is upstairs with my kitchen right below in my house. My wife says it sounds like the ceiling is about to come down when she’s in the kitchen making food :cool:
Damn, thats really unfortunate. Did you isolate the vibrations or did you not bother with this? Do you think I could curb the noise to a level, where the neighbours wont feel hatred towards me?
 
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Depends on building construction. Getting 200+kgs of rig + human vibrating and moving around is inevitably going to cause noise(vibration) transmission. If you find there's problems you can turn down lot of settings to make sure it's not so violent - and then when you find a more motion rig friendly place turn it up :)
 
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Depends on building construction. Getting 200+kgs of rig + human vibrating and moving around is inevitably going to cause noise(vibration) transmission. If you find there's problems you can turn down lot of settings to make sure it's not so violent - and then when you find a more motion rig friendly place turn it up :)
The building I live in is very old, so the isolation is actually pretty bad. Is there still a glimmer of hope by puting some magical mat, carpet or rubber feet?
Maybe my downstairs neighbour wont complain if he tries out the rig :D

Edit: Would love to hear some experience from people who live in apartments with the sfx 100. Read some old posts regarding noise isolation and like to know how it turned out
 
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I'm not operational yet, still drawing the RIG on paper. Company who sells the 8020 profiles has holiday at the moment :) Actuators are all done and working.
Got a question, would it be a good idea to make a double frame with silencers in between ?
Think it would prevent the RIG from moving, killing carpet and at the same time more silent operation.
Found a guy who used these:
More detail: https://www.sd-dresden.de/marke-eluflex-sf.html

My idea is to build a 40x40 or 80x40 (flat) frame on the floor, with on top the 120x40 RIG.

double frame.JPG

This guy has added an extra DOF, but did what I mean with double frame.

But my biggest question if this really would work, is the software so good that it will not pull out the feet from the rubber silencer? With other words, does the software never make the mistake of pulling one leg further then the opposite side?

Electronics cabinet almost done :

IMG_0419.jpg


Used this server cabinet: https://www.allekabels.nl/serverkast/7070/1673320/netwerk-mini-serverkast-9u.html
 
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My rig is on a wooden floor. Without damping it sounded like a major thunderstorm, so I needed a good amount of damping. My rig is (from top to bottom) on the well-known four washing machine rubber feet (two screws under each foot prevent the feet from sliding off), which are on four wooden 10x10x0.5 cm plates, glued onto four Wagner MP-4E 10x10x2 vibration dampers. Those dampers are glued with double sided tape onto a kitchen worktop (186x63.5 cm, 3.8 cm thick, 30 Kg). The worktop is on six 10x10x4 cm rubber granulate blocks which dampen most of the vibration. I think about 50%, without losing much of the finer motion details because of the thick heavy plate. So it still isn't silent (that's impossible), but it's much better now.

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20200101_202336_resized.jpg

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Experimenting with the granulate blocks learned using six 4 cm blocks dampens better than nine 2 cm blocks. And nineteen 2 cm blocks under the worktop are even worse. Six 4 cm blocks (two 2 cm blocks on top of each other) works best.

Previously I had the same feet + plates + Wagners onto 20x20x0.5 cm wooden plates, onto 20x20x2 cm thick foam. That dampened even more, but motion felt mushy, I didn't like that.
 
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I don’t have an apartment, but my rig is upstairs with my kitchen right below in my house. My wife says it sounds like the ceiling is about to come down when she’s in the kitchen making food :cool:
Same here, my PC room is right above our kitchen and I wont use the rig when my wife is in as its too loud.
 
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My rig is on a wooden floor. Without damping it sounded like a major thunderstorm, so I needed a good amount of damping. My rig is (from top to bottom) on the well-known four washing machine rubber feet (two screws under each foot prevent the feet from sliding off), which are on four wooden 10x10x0.5 cm plates, glued onto four Wagner MP-4E 10x10x2 vibration dampers. Those dampers are glued with double sided tape onto a kitchen worktop (186x63.5 cm, 3.8 cm thick, 30 Kg). The worktop is on six 10x10x4 cm rubber granulate blocks which dampen most of the vibration. I think about 50%, without losing much of the finer motion details because of the thick heavy plate. So it still isn't silent (that's impossible), but it's much better now.

Experimenting with the granulate blocks learned using six 4 cm blocks dampens better than nine 2 cm blocks. And nineteen 2 cm blocks under the worktop are even worse. Six 4 cm blocks (two 2 cm blocks on top of each other) works best.

Previously I had the same feet + plates + Wagners onto 20x20x0.5 cm wooden plates, onto 20x20x2 cm thick foam. That dampened even more, but motion felt mushy, I didn't like that.
That sounds solid. The rig must be at a very high position with all those layers. Could you shoot a photo of one of the actuators with the layer?
 
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