The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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So what's the general consensus on using bass shakers/transducers with the SFX100? What things are good to simulate that the SFX100 can't quite nail? are you guys running 4 corner transducers in chassis mode or are there other placement areas. Which shakers are recommended?
I'm using 4 shakers in extensions mode: at the pedals, at the shifter, under the seat and at the back of the seat. I'm using them for engine rpm, impacts, a tiny bit of shifting 'clunk' and speed based white noise to get a nice rumble of the road at high speed. But that's my preference. I think engine rpm is the effect best produced by a shaker instead of the SFX100. I'm using Sinus Live Bass Pump III shakers and one Sinus Live Big Bass Pump (no longer available).
 
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I'm using 4 shakers in extensions mode: at the pedals, at the shifter, under the seat and at the back of the seat. I'm using them for engine rpm, impacts, a tiny bit of shifting 'clunk' and speed based white noise to get a nice rumble of the road at high speed. But that's my preference. I think engine rpm is the effect best produced by a shaker instead of the SFX100. I'm using Sinus Live Bass Pump III shakers and one Sinus Live Big Bass Pump (no longer available).
Thank you! I'll take a look at those shakers. Just been seeing how I can improve the already incredible experience of the sfx100
 
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I have ordered the New simucube 2 pro and it Will be delivered next week.
So my questions is have any one on of those up and Running with the sfx 100? Was thinking of going with one of the wireless wheels alitel later but are alitel afraid of the EMI on the sfx 100 making problems with the Bluetooth wheel.

Any one tryed it?
I have not really tried but I have wireless wheel with Simucube 2 and it is a safer solution than having the cable. The cable may start to roll with the wheel and be a serious problem in case of a bug etc. Some people has scratched their monitors this way. However simucube 2 with a latest firmware seems to be rather safe.
 
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So what's the general consensus on using bass shakers/transducers with the SFX100? What things are good to simulate that the SFX100 can't quite nail? are you guys running 4 corner transducers in chassis mode or are there other placement areas. Which shakers are recommended?

I went from 4 in chassis and 2 in Extension mode down to just 2 in Extension mode seat/pedals purely for RPM, SFX takes care of the rest better than my shakers did.
 
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Hi all - first post here, who di I contact to order a SFX100 board (for UK)?

Thanks!

PS what would ideal length cable be for the D-SUB Cables? Most are 2m but that seems like a lot of excess. Ill be mounting the drivers in a server rack.

Thanks

Doug

May be able to help, looks like he is EU.
 
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Hi all - first post here, who di I contact to order a SFX100 board (for UK)?

Thanks!

PS what would ideal length cable be for the D-SUB Cables? Most are 2m but that seems like a lot of excess. Ill be mounting the drivers in a server rack.

Thanks

Doug

I have the 2m ones and in a rack shorter would be better, just remember they are quite thick and stiff so not easily put through 90/180 deg bends in a small place. As to O rings, I bought th ebox, already used some of the others on things around the house :) I think some people have just bought a size bigger from local hardware store and cut to size gluing back together.
 
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I use a shaker (Pearl Throne Thumper) for RPM only.
It is attached to the frame my seat is attached to which is on anti vibration mounts to allow it to move a little better independently of the rig.
That way the shaker only has to move the seat and not the full rig.
 
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Well after nearly a year I have finally gotten the actuators up and running, I decided to change out the standard power wiring to the servos, to shielded, as when I had the servos on the floor to test I was getting horrible crackling through my headphones when they were fired up. Since upgrading to the shielded supply wire and grounding the shield only at the servo side, the interference noise has completely gone and I also no longer get any random spiking on my pedals. Now to mount them on the rig..
20191228_211456.jpg

20191228_142230.jpg
20191228_163112.jpg
 
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What sort of tolerance can we have on 3D printed parts?

Just printed my first part (bump stop), through my Zortax M200. Its software should take care of settings in order to print 1:1.

Bump is 48x40mm in dia.

My print is 47.8 x 39.96mm
 
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Well after nearly a year I have finally gotten the actuators up and running, I decided to change out the standard power wiring to the servos, to shielded, as when I had the servos on the floor to test I was getting horrible crackling through my headphones when they were fired up. Since upgrading to the shielded supply wire and grounding the shield only at the servo side, the interference noise has completely gone and I also no longer get any random spiking on my pedals. Now to mount them on the rig..
View attachment 340976
View attachment 340975View attachment 340974

Where did you get the shielded cable from?
 
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I sold my 4 extra boards that came with my order. Regret that I didn't order more for all the persons that are asking me for a board.

My own setup is almost done, actuators are working fine :) Now I need to wait until my alu profiles can be delivered.

Btw, if you need a good affordable seat, look at LCD seats. I bought the FIA approved pro-cub, so much better than all the other I tried, for half the money. Just google for Lynx motorsport, they sell them. No intention to advert for them, just helping others who are searching for seats. I did struggle to find a good seat.
 
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What sort of tolerance can we have on 3D printed parts?

Just printed my first part (bump stop), through my Zortax M200. Its software should take care of settings in order to print 1:1.

Bump is 48x40mm in dia.

My print is 47.8 x 39.96mm

That is no problem, most parts have some margin, the only exception is the slider. Make sure that you get that sized exactly right. I printed about 4 test prints (just 1 cm into the print, then aborted) to make sure to have the correct sizing. Little bigger you can sand away, smaller is of course a problem. I made them just so big that I only needed to sand them to get a smooth surface. With the PTFE spray they are really silent.
With my setup that was 97.5% scaling for the slider. Ender 5, default Marlin 2.0 setup for BTT SKR E3. Printing at .25mm with PLA for the slider. The rest I did at the default 100% sizing in PETG. also with .25.
 
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Where did you get the shielded cable from?

just started using ali express...im a bit behind the times, but im glad I read a few posts on here, I cant get over how much noise was generated from the servo supply. This has knocked it completely on the head.
 
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Just though id post a couple of pics of a third party arduino prototype shield that I picked up from a local electronics store. I spent ages yesterday trying to get the DIL pins to work, but they were for me a pain.
This board is $20 nzd, and made things so easy, the grounds and 5V+ve have a rail so no need for connectors.
fits in the SFX 100 box as well, so that's a bonus.
I hadn't seen any posts so far about these and I missed the boat on the other PCB shield that's on here.



20191229_210349-jpg.341146

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20191229_164012.jpg
 

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That is no problem, most parts have some margin, the only exception is the slider. Make sure that you get that sized exactly right. I printed about 4 test prints (just 1 cm into the print, then aborted) to make sure to have the correct sizing. Little bigger you can sand away, smaller is of course a problem. I made them just so big that I only needed to sand them to get a smooth surface. With the PTFE spray they are really silent.
With my setup that was 97.5% scaling for the slider. Ender 5, default Marlin 2.0 setup for BTT SKR E3. Printing at .25mm with PLA for the slider. The rest I did at the default 100% sizing in PETG. also with .25.
The software that comes with the printer Is supposed to take care of all that. Height max is .19 I normally run at .14

I’ll print Part of a slider as you suggest and take some measurements
 
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