The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[scoobyzilla]

... Get guidance from a fellow builder who has done it in your country or a qualified electrician - especially if you are not confident around mains electricity wiring - this is the one are you need to be careful with for the obvious reasons.

thanks C64 appreciate the answers , i am pretty happy doing electrics - wired most parts of the house, and the mancave, more I just could not see it specifically referenced in the manual - so asking for UK market if anyone else can help - i will have another read through the manual as well (always telling people RTFM - so maybe i need to do that again myself) thank you

 

[Hees]

In the thread there are a couple of shopping lists, I ordered most items from Ali. Just the profiles are the ones from Kinetik. Discovered that most items from the German suppliers actually use the same parts as the ones listed on Ali. Saved me some money to do it this way.
For the motors I indeed mentioned the SFX100 platform, he does know about the initiative and selects the correct motors for you. He did help with the shipping costs also.

Thanks for replaying can point Ali's list
And the motor supplier
Thanks

 

[FrankTheO2Tank]

I think the difficulty of some parts of this project are getting a bit overblown. I want to put a couple of parts in perspective. These two sections of the build were the most concerning for me prior to starting because I had seen multiple sources talking about the troubles that they had. Both sections actually turned out to be quite simple.

First off the "mains wiring".
Disclaimer: I live in US, so everything I say here is based on US electrical grid and wiring. Online this has been made out to be a very scary part of the build. Working with electricity is definitely dangerous, but you can complete all of this wiring while completely disconnected from a power source, so that danger isn't present.

In terms of difficulty, if you have installed a light switch or power outlet in your home, then you already understand 90% of what you're going to do here. I ran into no issues with my wiring, and it was not difficult to figure out what to do, or how to do it. If you live in the US and have questions, feel free to reach out to me.

Next, putting the threaded inserts into the Kinetik profiles. I saw so many people having issues with this. From not being able to find the right size or type of driver, to getting the insert started crooked, among other issues. I took the advice found earlier in this thread, about using a long 1/4" Allen driver and sticking it all the way down into the profile, this will help keep the sleeve straight as you screw it into the profile.

Start easy, make sure the threads are going in properly. You should be able to make the first couple of turns relatively easy with just one hand, after that you will needed significantly more force as the insert goes deeper. Although I saw some people using thread cutting oil during this process, I did not need to lubricate these inserts before screwing them in. I did not encounter any issues during this part of the build, it took approximately 1.5 - 2 hours for all 32 inserts. I purchased this allen key set and it worked great.

I want to point out that I have never tapped or threaded anything in my life. My electrical knowledge includes installing some light switches, outlets, and can lights. Do the research, and I don't think you will have issues with these steps.

 

[Insert Coin]

trying to aggregate all my questions just before I start building in to one post

do you cut threads in the printed parts, or just let the bolts bite ?
do you locktight everything or just specific bolts ? (is the locktight ok between the bolts and the PLA?)
do you lubricate the printed sliders so they slide easily on the ally or leave dry, and if you do lubricate whats best to use
best grease to use for the thread? (lithium?)
on the wiring on the sevro controller is there a preferred live and neutral feed as i cant see reference to which way round in the instructions (trying to find photo of someones else rig - maybe best to point me to a particular page in the English instructions if you know where (question asked with me assuming full responsibility if i blow myself up)
thank you in advance

My 2c: I lubricated the sliders with PTFE, see this post. I did have to tap the smaller bolt holes, see here.

 

[DougRS]

I wish a current builder or person in the process of ordering/building would create their own thread and just give a full detailed blog on it all. From ordering parts to collecting all components to building and issues, concerns they come across etc.

Separate specific build threads section would be really helpful. It took me a few days on my summer holidays to read through all the posts and I had to take notes all the way through. I would post up but I think it gets lost in this thread and to see updates. Each of our build threads would be short ish and easier to follow?

 

[Ringorian]

Strange .. lots of people just used that GitHub documentation and ended up with the working motion system ... And that was before the shield was done

 

[C64]

In october 2018 I built my SFX from the github documentation without any problems or help needed, Once you have ordered all the parts it really is just straightforward assembly with no special skills required apart from learning how to manage a 3D printer. The shield just removes a tedious wiring job ( still easy to do - just tedious ).

You do not need to overthink this build, order the bits, print, assemble and enjoy

 

[Black_rat]

I built mine from here https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

also bought expert mode and got help with 3D printer and printing on the expert discord channel. Plus a couple of people in my country who had recently done the project helped with localised shopping list.

 

[PEZZALUCIFER]

I installed my threaded inserts tonight and noticed Kinetik sent me two different types of inserts.

(LEFT). Has a coarse/blunt outer thread that makes it really hard to put in and I had to use wd40 and screw them in and out a few times. These ones don't allow you to put the hex tool all the way through either.

(RIGHT). Has a finer/sharper outer thread that makes them really easy to put in, in one go, no in and out required. They also allow the hex tool to go all the way through.

This may explain why some people have a hard time, while others find it really easy.

 

[RCR_Finn]

This is how mine went in with T45:

 

[EsxPaul]

I installed my threaded inserts tonight and noticed Kinetik sent me two different types of inserts.

View attachment 339589

(LEFT). Has a coarse/blunt outer thread that makes it really hard to put in and I had to use wd40 and screw them in and out a few times. These ones don't allow you to put the hex tool all the way through either.

(RIGHT). Has a finer/sharper outer thread that makes them really easy to put in, in one go, no in and out required. They also allow the hex tool to go all the way through.

This may explain why some people have a hard time, while others find it really easy.

Thanks for pointing out that this is still happening from time to time.

There were a few other users that reported this a while back although Kinetik insisted that they only ever supply one type of insert, despite being proven wrong.

 

[cubex]

(LEFT). Has a coarse/blunt outer thread that makes it really hard to put in and I had to use wd40 and screw them in and out a few times. These ones don't allow you to put the hex tool all the way through either.

This may explain why some people have a hard time, while others find it really easy.

I had the "bad" ones and I had to increase the hole size in the alu-profile with a 10.4 mm drill bit. Otherwise the torque needed to screw those helicoils in was just too big (would destroy the inner thread). After pre-drilling it was possible with reasonable torque, still damaged the inner threads, had to repair them with a thread cutter. For me it was definitely the worst part of the whole build.

 

[RCR_Finn]

There were a few other users that reported this a while back although Kinetik insisted that they only ever supply one type of insert, despite being proven wrong.

That aligns well with Kinetik's corporate policy of lying to the customer. In my case, a customer whose money they had already been holding for over a month before they started lying... I sincerely hope I don't have to deal with them again.

 

[papasqueeze]

Hi all

Anyone having trouble with internet randomly cutting out when SFX is on?

I've tried moving pc further away-but I've seen some on here really close

I've tried a hardwired socket in the wall
I've tried a powerline adapter at the other side of the room
I have internet running off of a Asus WiFi stick and it seems to work fine

So leads me to believe that it effects my ethernet socket on the pc some how

I'm using the longest cable from the Arduino controller to my pc that works

Apart from that the system works flawlessly

Tia

Merry Xmas

 

[FrankTheO2Tank]

What are people doing with their VR base stations?

Mounted to your rig or maybe not?
If so, how did you mount them, I'm working with Index Base Stations?

Thanks!!

 

[anton_Chez]

Can't mount base stations to anything moving. Even touching them while they are turned on makes them lose tracking. So you're forced to find a suitable spot for it in relation to your seating position.

 

[hazardpro]

Hi all - first post here, who di I contact to order a SFX100 board (for UK)?

Thanks!

PS what would ideal length cable be for the D-SUB Cables? Most are 2m but that seems like a lot of excess. Ill be mounting the drivers in a server rack.

Thanks

Doug

 

[hazardpro]

Sorry also any recommendations for the orings required rather than buy a hole box as per the shopping list (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000B9RKL2)?

Again for the UK

Thanks! Doug

 

[hazardpro]

Anyone in the UK have issues ordering from https://www.smalltec.de/

Ive tried selecting paypal or visa and it wont let me proceed, only allows bank transfer?

Doug

 

[wrxawd123]

So what's the general consensus on using bass shakers/transducers with the SFX100? What things are good to simulate that the SFX100 can't quite nail? are you guys running 4 corner transducers in chassis mode or are there other placement areas. Which shakers are recommended?