The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Brett Horton]

Very similar specs, as you said smaller and a tad cheaper... Smaller = less weight = less shipping charge to me in the US. The really are working fantastically! So far would highly recommend. In the end I think I saved over $350 US on the difference for a (What I was told) a better product.

 

[d69morpwr]

It looks like the RS is a little smaller and cheaper than the old MEGA Kits but I could not find a ton of info on differences. Can you tell us a bit more about the RS150 setup and why you picked it? I am considering it as well.

If you have any questions send ERacing a message. They normally get back pretty quick. I think the only difference is the profile is smaller so takes up less space and a little lighter.

 

[Mehmet Baran]

Hi all.

What might cause this cracking sound when lowering the rig?

Here is the video :

 

[Insert Coin]

Hi all.

What might cause this cracking sound when lowering the rig?

Here is the video :

This perhaps?

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/the-simfeedback-ac-diy-motion-simulator-thread.159524/post-3077653

 

[xonacs]

Hey all.. I'm planning my next rig upgrade and was looking at the SFX 100... If I'm understanding correctly - you need a sponsor or else there is no change you'll get it working?

 

[jkn87]

Sponsor is only to have the pro version of the software. I have the basic free version and for the standard 4 actuators sfx100 setup you don't need nothing more.

 

[xonacs]

Sponsor is only to have the pro version of the software. I have the basic free version and for the standard 4 actuators sfx100 setup you don't need nothing more.

Great thank you. And do you know if there is an updated list for EU shipping ?

 

[Freeon]

@xonacs Most of the parts coming from China anyway so if you want to make it easier on yourself you can get most everything from NTL Bearing. Send an email to Amy skye@ntl-bearing.com. Ask her for price on SFX-100 parts and she will send you a quote on everything. They even now have there own aluminum profiles and will provide the .stl files as they different than the original. I don't have any experience with them. You can opt out for the profiles and get the originals if you wish. I would recommend getting the shielded cables. Minimize EMI problems. Also they now have drivers that supposed to not have the noise emitted by the original ones. They are white in color for reference. Amy is aware of these.

Would also recommend checking out the sfx shield that will replace breadboard and few of the electronic parts. Makes it easier and looks better. https://opensfx.com/2019/04/09/sfx-100-shield/

 

[Ninja-]

Also they now have drivers that supposed to not have the noise emitted by the original ones.

Just wanted to point out that when I purchased these white drivers from eRacing Lab (pretty sure they the same from Amy / PT / Ali), they specifically mentioned that these drivers still emit the noise, just at a higher frequency so it's less likely to be heard by human ears. I've seen comments on other forums that people with super sensitive / healthy hearing still could hear it. Personally I couldn't hear any noise from the black or white driver, but they are definitely there when measured with an audio meter.

And agreed, definitely get the shielded cables, regardless where you buy the motor / driver from.

https://eracing-lab.com/collections/diy-projects/products/motor-pack

 

[Insr33]

My SFX is starting to make strange noises when turning off. Do I need to lubricate the parts or is this nothing to worry about?
All help appreciated

 

[Insert Coin]

My SFX is starting to make strange noises when turning off. Do I need to lubricate the parts or is this nothing to worry about?
All help appreciated

Check this: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...y-motion-simulator-thread.159524/post-3077653

 

[xonacs]

@xonacs Most of the parts coming from China anyway so if you want to make it easier on yourself you can get most everything from NTL Bearing. Send an email to Amy skye@ntl-bearing.com. Ask her for price on SFX-100 parts and she will send you a quote on everything. They even now have there own aluminum profiles and will provide the .stl files as they different than the original. I don't have any experience with them. You can opt out for the profiles and get the originals if you wish. I would recommend getting the shielded cables. Minimize EMI problems. Also they now have drivers that supposed to not have the noise emitted by the original ones. They are white in color for reference. Amy is aware of these.

Would also recommend checking out the sfx shield that will replace breadboard and few of the electronic parts. Makes it easier and looks better. https://opensfx.com/2019/04/09/sfx-100-shield/

So I contacted Amy - ouch shipping!

Still - am I right in saying that all I need would be the below?
1. What Amy quoted;
2. The 3D Printed Parts;
3. The software (the basic version is enough).

 

[Freeon]

So I contacted Amy - ouch shipping!

Still - am I right in saying that all I need would be the below?
1. What Amy quoted;
2. The 3D Printed Parts;
3. The software (the basic version is enough).

Depends on what items she quoted you. If you want to DM the list I can double check against mine and see if you will need anything else.

Also don't forget about duties on top of shipping. That was also ouch for me. At least in Canada.

 

[diego_monge26]

Depends on what items she quoted you. If you want to DM the list I can double check against mine and see if you will need anything else.

Also don't forget about duties on top of shipping. That was also ouch for me. At least in Canada.

Hey Freeon,

Sorry I'm hijacking the conversation with Xonacs!

That is the list of items that Amy quoted for me 2 days ago. For anyone curious, my quote was $1,389.00 shipped (including customs tax) to my door in California, USA.
From my initial research (which I did like 1 year ago), I think we're still going to need:
- Enclosure box for motor drivers (Seems like the 6U cabinets are pretty popular)
- DB 25 male/male cables x4
- SFX-100 shield (or the arduino and associated wires, etc)
- #18 O-ring (I have no idea where this goes but I had it on my 1 year old list, please let me know)
- Slotted angle brackets for 80/20

Quick questions to those that have bought from Amy recently:
1. How are the STL's they are providing and have you had good success with those?
2. Tapping of the al extrusion is done through the threaded inserts right?
3. I remember a while ago that there was some discussion of the motor drivers not being able to be run at 110V. Is this still a concern? If that's the case is a step up converter they way to go?

 

[Freeon]

View attachment 558091
View attachment 558092
Hey Freeon,

Sorry I'm hijacking the conversation with Xonacs!

That is the list of items that Amy quoted for me 2 days ago. For anyone curious, my quote was $1,389.00 shipped (including customs tax) to my door in California, USA.
From my initial research (which I did like 1 year ago), I think we're still going to need:
- Enclosure box for motor drivers (Seems like the 6U cabinets are pretty popular)
- DB 25 male/male cables x4
- SFX-100 shield (or the arduino and associated wires, etc)
- #18 O-ring (I have no idea where this goes but I had it on my 1 year old list, please let me know)
- Slotted angle brackets for 80/20

Quick questions to those that have bought from Amy recently:
1. How are the STL's they are providing and have you had good success with those?
2. Tapping of the al extrusion is done through the threaded inserts right?
3. I remember a while ago that there was some discussion of the motor drivers not being able to be run at 110V. Is this still a concern? If that's the case is a step up converter they way to go?

That list looks OK. Few extra items that you will need not on list or on your missing items list are:
Arduino Leonardo
Emergency Stop
Should get grease nipples for ball screw or print them https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397703
For the enclosure I did get the 6U. You should be able to get from Monoprice.
I don't use aluminum profile for my rig but angle brackets should do the trick to mount actuators.
Motors run on 110v. You just need to change some settings on the drivers.
Not sure about the tapping of aluminum profiles as I didn't use theirs. The original ones you just install the thread inserts. I used item24 profiles. Those don't use thread inserts. You can tap the treads directly into them or have item24 tap them for you.

 

[DonDonki]

1. How are the STL's they are providing and have you had good success with those?
3. I remember a while ago that there was some discussion of the motor drivers not being able to be run at 110V. Is this still a concern?

The dimension for the internal of the profiles (especially those from China) will always vary, some could even be +/-1mm differences, causing the slider to be too tight or too loose. That's why the STL does not work for some users even thought the profiles are from the exact same supplier in China (Amy or Ali). Keep this in mind if you are buying the profile from China and make sure you know how to trim (not just scaling) the STL file if the differences is too large.

The motor drivers should work in 110V without any problem.

Any idea what type of shipping is included in the price? I was trying to buy additional a motor for active belt but looks like China is at a stand still at the moment and nothing can be shipped.

 

[Insr33]

Check this: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...y-motion-simulator-thread.159524/post-3077653

Thank you Insert Coin!
I'll take a look if this the case with my actuators. I'll report back when I found the time. Do I need to take the motor coupling apart in some kind of way when it's compressed too much or do I just need to be careful not to press the motor to much when reassembling?

 

[Insert Coin]

Thank you Insert Coin!
I'll take a look if this the case with my actuators. I'll report back when I found the time. Do I need to take the motor coupling apart in some kind of way when it's compressed too much or do I just need to be careful not to press the motor to much when reassembling?

The bolts always press the motor down. You need to move one half of the coupling up the axle so it's 1 mm further away from the other half.

 

[diego_monge26]

That list looks OK. Few extra items that you will need not on list or on your missing items list are:
Arduino Leonardo
Emergency Stop
Should get grease nipples for ball screw or print them https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397703
For the enclosure I did get the 6U. You should be able to get from Monoprice.
I don't use aluminum profile for my rig but angle brackets should do the trick to mount actuators.
Motors run on 110v. You just need to change some settings on the drivers.
Not sure about the tapping of aluminum profiles as I didn't use theirs. The original ones you just install the thread inserts. I used item24 profiles. Those don't use thread inserts. You can tap the treads directly into them or have item24 tap them for you.

Thanks for the extra items, I had completely forgot about those!

 

[diego_monge26]

The dimension for the internal of the profiles (especially those from China) will always vary, some could even be +/-1mm differences, causing the slider to be too tight or too loose. That's why the STL does not work for some users even thought the profiles are from the exact same supplier in China (Amy or Ali). Keep this in mind if you are buying the profile from China and make sure you know how to trim (not just scaling) the STL file if the differences is too large.

The motor drivers should work in 110V without any problem.

Any idea what type of shipping is included in the price? I was trying to buy additional a motor for active belt but looks like China is at a stand still at the moment and nothing can be shipped.

Makes sense, I'll look into that when the extrusion arrives.

As far as the shipping, Amy said it is "Shipped by sea door to door including customs tax" but it seems like the lead time is 30 days.