The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Laserbeak43 · Jun 2, 2020

Got my bed leveled and made some test prints. .986 scale fits snug without having to sand anything. (z axis scaled to .2 for testing)

diablo2112 said:
That slider has been printed with entirely the wrong settings, it's way-too weak the way it was done. With a 0.4mm nozzle at a 0.25mm layer height, you need 12 top/bottom layers and 8 perimeter layers. Infill should be a minimum of 25% rectilinear fill. Also, your prints appear to be under extruded. You need to calibrate your extruder (usually by increasing the flow setting).

I'm guessing this response was for me? I'm not sure of my printer's specs, it's an ender 3 pro and I print at 0.2mm.
12 top/bottom layers and 8 perimeter layers? these are terms I haven't heard before. will have to look these up, as well as infill.
Can these be set in Octoprint, or do I do it in my slicer (creality)?

Anything wrong with my current prints?

Laserbeak43 · Jun 2, 2020

dizzyj said:
For those interested here is a picture of a slider with the groove and one that had already failed while installing.

How did it brake? what are those clamps at the top? Never seen an STL that looks like that.

Moxley6969 · Jun 2, 2020

Laserbeak43 said:
Got my bed leveled and made some test prints. .986 scale fits snug without having to sand anything. (z axis scaled to .2 for testing)

View attachment 378776

I'm guessing this response was for me? I'm not sure of my printer's specs, it's an ender 3 pro and I print at 0.2mm.
12 top/bottom layers and 8 perimeter layers? these are terms I haven't heard before. will have to look these up, as well as infill.
Can these be set in Octoprint, or do I do it in my slicer (creality)?

Anything wrong with my current prints?

Tip for ya when doing a test print, Dont Z scale it down to a Small part, you want to only print to XX height, squishing it like that while maintaining the dimensional accuracy, your lacking the flat larger sides which will add more friction to the Slider compared to your Super skinny Squished version.

slikk66 · Jun 2, 2020

slikk66 said:
Yes I also wrote her back (Amy) asking about shielded cables for B type motor, she said they have them, added $22 more for the shielded cables.

Got my cables today, they appear to be shielded correctly, Thanos on his discord even chimed in and said they looked correct. So if ordering from NTL bearing, make sure to ask for them and B type motor!! $22 extra cost.

d69morpwr · Jun 2, 2020

To the guys that ordered from SKYE and Kinetic how long did it take before you received your parts? The communication is really lacking after the order.lol

slikk66 · Jun 3, 2020

I ordered from Skye and ITEM. I checked with Skye yesterday for an update, 9 days earlier she had said "I'll get this out ASAP".. She said they shipped last week, and she'd get me a tracking number - 2 of the 3 boxes showed up today. So, paypal payment to arrival was 10~ days. ITEM will be here tomorrow, I got a tracking number yesterday.

d69morpwr · Jun 3, 2020

So I have a while to wait

diablo2112 · Jun 3, 2020

Laserbeak43 said:
I'm not sure of my printer's specs, it's an ender 3 pro and I print at 0.2mm.
12 top/bottom layers and 8 perimeter layers? these are terms I haven't heard before. will have to look these up, as well as infill.
Can these be set in Octoprint, or do I do it in my slicer (creality)?

Anything wrong with my current prints?

Yes, every one of those prints are incorrectly printed. They appear to have 2 perimeter lines, which is a default setting in most slicers. They are too-weak to use for an SFX actuator and will break (quickly) if you try to operate the actuators with those parts. (note: the perimeter setting isn't really "layers" though some folks call them that. It's the number of times the extruder will trace the outline, depositing a single line of filament each time. I called them "lines", above. This may be a source of your confusion.)

You need to adjust settings in your slicer to get stronger parts. The role of the slicer is to take a digital 3D model (the STL file), and generate instructions for your printer to make that part. These instructions are called "G-code".

There's tons of options when printing parts. For the SFX prints, you want very strong parts - parts capable of being used in a high powered motion system. You get these parts by printing with non-standard settings which you specify in your slicer program. You'll find a huge number of settings when you delve into how the slicer works. For SFX purposes, you want to print with the following settings (assuming a 0.4mm nozzle):

0.25mm layer height
8 perimeter lines (if you slicer has different settings for inner- and outer-perimeters, set them both to 8)*
12 top and bottom solid layers (giving a 3mm shell to your part)
minimum of 20% rectilinear infill with a solid infill layer every 20 layers. Many folks print more densely. I used 25%

There's other things you can change to improve parts, but the settings (above) are the minimum needed to get good parts for SFX acutators. You indicated you printed at a 0.2mm layer height. That can work, but you need to increase the number of top and bottom layers to ensure you're getting a good, 3mm solid top and bottom. That means you'd need 15 top/bottom layers at a 0.2mm layer height. Good luck.
-----
* note, your 0.4mm nozzle prints lines that are roughly 0.45mm wide. WIth 8 perimeter lines, that means the "skin" thickness of each layer is 0.45x8 = 3.6mm. Clever, huh? With the SFX settings, every surface is a minimum of 3mm thick. This is why these parts are strong. This includes the threaded holes, top, bottom, and sides. Magic.

Moxley6969 · Jun 3, 2020

Solid Infill every 20 layers, is IMO a joke of setting and does F ALL for overall strength and all your doing is wasting filament, time and technically making the part weaker.

diablo2112 · Jun 3, 2020

Moxley6969 said:
Solid Infill every 20 layers, is IMO a joke of setting and does F ALL for overall strength and all your doing is wasting filament, time and technically making the part weaker.

I personally agree with this, but the "solid every 20" is part of the official build specs, and I didn't want to argue this point or risk confusing someone new to trying to print parts.

_hagenaar · Jun 4, 2020

dizzyj said:
I’m in the process of building my actuators. I’m using the item24 extrusion and already printed everything. Can someone check the stl for the item 24 slider? I noticed it had a groove around the circumference in the lowest notch that was nit there when I printed the kinetic sliders. While installing the item 24 slider it was too tight and while pulling on the leg to remove the slider assembly out of the extrusion the slider separated in two right at that groove. It’s as if the print has a top layer right there.
I’m wondering if I did something wrong and need to reprint my sliders. Would hate for them to fail after install

i had the same thing. was a thing from the slicer. try a different one

Insert Coin · Jun 4, 2020

FYI (and DIY

): SFX100 direct drive belt tensioner

Jasje · Jun 9, 2020

I'm having an issue with Dirt Rally 2 where there is a lag of 3-4 seconds between the telemetry data and the movement of my platform.
If I enable expert mode I clearly see that the data is coming in with a huge lag.

I've tried running https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/dirt-rally-2-0-dashboard-telemetry-tool.26703/ which uses the same UDP port and data and there I receive it instantly.

Does anyone know what I could do to fix this? I don't have this issue in rFactor 2.

Jasje · Jun 10, 2020

Video to explain the issue:

(sorry for the amateur video)

slikk66 · Jun 10, 2020

question for folks who have built theirs already.. I got my actuators built and attached to frame, couple things I've noticed:

- I let the frame fall all the way to the bottom of each actuator, where the slot nut hit the printed linear bearing, this should be equal for all of them, but I notice that the distance of the shaft sticking out at this fully retracted position is still about 1/8-1/4" unequal across the actuators. Couple of the fixed bearings slid easier onto the screw ball shaft than others, one I had to bang on, other one slid all the way down and got stuck when I tightened the nut, so I had to back it off a bit. The other 3 I tightened all the way and they didn't freeze the bearing, so I imagine that could be part of the variance. Is this normal? I was planning to get a car jack, and a level, and lower each end front/back, place a brick or something under the other end, then lower it until the first actuator hits, then lower the other actuator until both are level, but one will have a slightly longer extended shaft at full retraction, which I think is OK as they should both hopefully have the same full travel.

- after plugging in the servo drivers, and running the jog function, when you release it, they all fall, but one falls much faster than the others, like straight down.. the other 3 seem to float down a bit. As I was building them, I saw that some definitely slid differently than others, and I recall one seemed to slide much easier than the others, you would just invert it and the slider would come down by itself. I'm guessing that is the one that is now falling quickly. However, when going up, it doesn't appear to slip at all, so it just seems to be a friction thing. Is this a problem? Are the motors going to hold the correct height during game play and compensate for this?

I haven't hooked it up to a game yet, so this is just offline testing so far. Getting close

HoiHman · Jun 10, 2020

Jasje said:
I'm having an issue with Dirt Rally 2 where there is a lag of 3-4 seconds between the telemetry data and the movement of my platform.
If I enable expert mode I clearly see that the data is coming in with a huge lag.

I've tried running https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/dirt-rally-2-0-dashboard-telemetry-tool.26703/ which uses the same UDP port and data and there I receive it instantly.

Does anyone know what I could do to fix this? I don't have this issue in rFactor 2.

Try deleting the hardwaresettingconfig file in the document/my games folder.

Restart DR2 en close again and re-enter the parameters for motion in the hardwaresettingsconfig file

Jasje · Jun 10, 2020

HoiHman said:
Try deleting the hardwaresettingconfig file in the document/my games folder.

Restart DR2 en close again and re-enter the parameters for motion in the hardwaresettingsconfig file

Thanks but I've done that multiple times. Reinstalled Windows, removed the game completely twice. I'm out of ideas. (removed all usb cables too except the bare minimum)
Only thing I didn't do yet is update all mobo & gpu drivers

mrbean_phillip · Jun 10, 2020

^^ I suspect this is caused by emi or ground loops and motherboard USB controller. I have seen similar behaviour in old Argon direct-drive wheel days. Perhaps this is caused by the same issues.

Few things you can try:

1) Move USB cable for SFX arduino to a USB 2.0 motherboard port runnning directly off the chipset, not via 3rd party USB controller like Asmedia
2) Run shielded cables on the UVW power-cable from each servo-drive to servos
3)Have a single star-point ground connection for all drives, devices, including your pc
4) Use ferrite-chokes in the UVW lines as close to the servo drive as you can manage
5) Use line-filters on servo-drive incoming AC supply as close to each servo drive as possible

Hopefully this helps to narrow it down/eliminate the issue for you..

Cheers,
‘Beano

HoiHman · Jun 11, 2020

@Jasje

I remember having a similar issue with one of the codemasters game, but i can't recall 100% sure what the solution was.

If rFactor is OK, it's not hardware or cable related.

Try the following:

- Make sure there's only 1 line with the telemetry data output in the config file. Duplicate lines with the same settings can cause this delay.
- Make sure not other programs running ( like simhub, simcube or simcommander)
- Try a fresh simfeedback installation and just copy your licence into the folder and use the profile that comes with the fresh install( run unblock)
- use my codemastersalt provider (can be found in the discord channel) and set the telemetry at 20778.

Jasje · Jun 11, 2020

Thanks for the suggestion, but in other sims simfeedback is behaving perfectly. I have tested rf2, acc and iracing and all run fine.

edit: will test you tips Henk, you can see my config in the video, it’s only one line