The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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I've got 3 actuators built and every thing else so I thought I'd give it a test

Did firmware and what not started it
Actuators raise up to normal position and then nothing in game, it's been working but for about 10 seconds but then nothing

Any help

Added: it's like it's not being sent telemetry
 
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+1 for thicker layers! 0.25 mm is the absolute minimum for these parts, anything lower and you’re only wasting time, while getting less robust prints.. Also I forgot to mention print speed: for most filament types, 55mm/s is a good maximum speed. If you want to increase speed, you need to increase hotend temperature.

I started printing last week with PETG and 0.2mm layers I had perfectly dialed in, I didn't wanted to mess with the settings that worked really great so far for other stuff I printed.

I started digging last night for some other info in the thread and noticed this post above, where you write 0,2 mm should be considered minimum. Do you think it could be real problem? Should I try to mess with the settings for next prints / reprint what I already have? The pieces I printed are looking perfect and feels solid.

As it is PETG, it might be somewhat stronger than PLA so I hope it won't be such problem :O_o:.
 
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100cm centre to centre, give or take 10 cm.
Thanks. I have PT actuators and I have the distance 127cm and I think that the to much weight are on the posterior actuators whole the front actuators don’t have that much weight on them. I’m thinking to mount to the front actuators closer to me by reducing the distance to 110cm. I think that less distance will improve the weight distribution and will improve Pitch and Heave feeling.
 
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Its all trial and error :)

Does it have to be though? On SRD's site there was an interesting procedure for placing the actuators: put a scale under each of them at a time, and adjust distance so that you get a similar reading front and back. I was thinking to try this, though I need to get another scale, my glass smart scale might not be best for this...
 
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Does it have to be though? On SRD's site there was an interesting procedure for placing the actuators: put a scale under each of them at a time, and adjust distance so that you get a similar reading front and back. I was thinking to try this, though I need to get another scale, my glass smart scale might not be best for this...

Don’t forget if you are to do this you will have to be sat on it at the time to get the correct centre of gravity. Not sure if it matters so much on a rig with 4 actuators though. Still it’s better balanced than not.

The further away the actuators are from one another the less the effects will be, that’s why people say 100cm is about ideal. Any less it won’t be as balanced, any more it won’t be felt as good (will still be good though).
 
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I wouldn't put the weight of my rig on scales, I can't even lift one end up, well I can but its a strain. TBH its not just balance its also about movement, further apart less and closer together more.
 
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Before I start going nuts with Aliexpress etc does anyone here fancy selling their complete SFX100 setup? I appreciate the license says not for profit or business... but someone might fancy redoing it better with a different cab etc?

:whistling:
 
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