The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

HugoB · Oct 4, 2019

Anybody have good luck with the rFactor 2 surge setting in SFB? I can't seem to make it feel as good as AC, I like to feel gear shifts and a nice dive on hard braking, but even with smoothness to maximum (10) the input is so erratic and bouncy that it is unusable. I wish there was a higher smoothness setting...

Insert Coin · Oct 5, 2019

I am still struggling with EMI. I have put all four servo drivers in an old server cabinet so they are in a Faraday cage and the cabinet is connected to ground. Routed all servo cables through the channels of my rig's profiles, rig is connected to ground. I've put almost 30 ferrites cores in total on all USB cables. Put the pedal PCB and button box joystick controller into a metal case, connected to ground. Servo drivers cabinet on the left of my rig and USB cables on the right. But if I power on my servos my pedals stop working and I see my joystick controller disappear and reappear. Windows shows an error message it doesn't recognize a USB device. The rig moves up and stops as it should, but two seconds later it suddenly pitches down a bit. No USB problems with the servos powered off. This is frustrating. So close, yet so far...

HoiHman · Oct 5, 2019

@Insert Coin, connect the ground of your usb devices to the rig. It will solve all your problems

Happy birthday to my SFX100

It has been full year since i posted this video

And what a great year it has been.

When i started this project in september 2018 there were only 5 supported games and a lot unknowns. A year ago i was the first (public) builder to complete the SFX100 platform mover and the actuators have been flawless since the beginning.

No wear or tear on any of the parts and the 3D prints hold up really good. In the last year i have driven it at insane speeds and acceleration. Once i even demoed that it's possible to let the whole rig jump into air with all four feet coming loose from the ground

It's fast, it's reliable and the software is amazing.

The SFX100 has really changed my sim racing hobby in something really spectacular. Gone are the days of wishing to someday winning the jackpot and buy a D-box

That's lesson learned when coming back from trying out all kinds of motion simulators on the SimExpo. The best simulator i tried that weekend, was the one back home.

People who are starting their build now, know they can rely on a constant growing community and truly amazing platform with support for (as far as i know) every game that has data out.
Multi controller support as well as on the fly adjustments have be added, knowing @saxxon66 there is probably more to come.

How cool is it to start your motion simulator with the press of a button

Even after 1 year, i still feel like a little kid in the amusement park when i step into the rig.

A big thanks to Micha, Jochen and Florentin for making this available to the sim racing community

For more SFX100 videos checkout my youtube channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA2wGTshjQTp9ni2hwLnXag

Rollux · Oct 5, 2019

I have been slowly collecting parts as funds allow and have started printing lately. So far have done the bump stops, linear bearing mounts and 1 fixed bearing mount whilst I am waiting for my profile to arrive. And that has taken 1kg of filament. I still need motors but they will be a while away.
I am glad I took the time to get to know my printer and set it up and calibrate it correctly. I use a 0.6mm nozzle and even with that and a 0.3 layer height the upper mounts take 10hours each! But the bearings are a nice friction fit, and everything is aligned, so that’s worth it.
Looking forward to the profile arriving so I can check the slider dimensions and then mount it all up.
Then the long wait for funds for the motors

RCR_Finn · Oct 5, 2019

Rollux said:
I have been slowly collecting parts as funds allow and have started printing lately. So far have done the bump stops, linear bearing mounts and 1 fixed bearing mount whilst I am waiting for my profile to arrive. And that has taken 1kg of filament. I still need motors but they will be a while away.
I am glad I took the time to get to know my printer and set it up and calibrate it correctly. I use a 0.6mm nozzle and even with that and a 0.3 layer height the upper mounts take 10hours each! But the bearings are a nice friction fit, and everything is aligned, so that’s worth it.
Looking forward to the profile arriving so I can check the slider dimensions and then mount it all up.
Then the long wait for funds for the motors

Can you please share all of your printing settings, so I could give it one more try with the 0.6mm nozzle before I have to start backing up to the 0.4mm settings, as I dont seem to be able to make it print a whole part in acceptable quality?

papasqueeze · Oct 5, 2019

hi all
im having a headache with the printing too

in cura the finish is better but get the first layer to stick mainly holes is a nightmare

if i use slicer it all prints well but finish is poor in places

i hope this is the hardest part of the project

p.s it took 22 hours to print motor mount with 0.4 nozzle for me

Rollux · Oct 5, 2019

RCR_Finn said:
Can you please share all of your printing settings, so I could give it one more try with the 0.6mm nozzle before I have to start backing up to the 0.4mm settings, as I dont seem to be able to make it print a whole part in acceptable quality?

In Cura on Ender 3 Pro with eSun PLA+
0.2 initial height
0.3 layer height
Initial layer speed 20mm/s
Print speed 50mm/s
Infill 25% Grid
Bed 60deg
Nozzle 210deg
Brim 15mm

I have some visible layer lines etc, but I’m not at all worried about aesthetics as I race in VR and my rig is in a shed outside

cfischer9009 · Oct 5, 2019

Insert Coin said:
I am still struggling with EMI.

Here is my experience with and resolution of my EMI issue...
https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...controller-thread.168360/page-20#post-3047521

Edit: then I saw you posted the very next post in that thread. Sorry.

RCR_Finn · Oct 6, 2019

Rollux said:
In Cura on Ender 3 Pro with eSun PLA+
0.2 initial height
0.3 layer height
Initial layer speed 20mm/s
Print speed 50mm/s
Infill 25% Grid
Bed 60deg
Nozzle 210deg
Brim 15mm

I have some visible layer lines etc, but I’m not at all worried about aesthetics as I race in VR and my rig is in a shed outside

Thanks. How many top and bottom layers, how many wall lines?

Moxley6969 · Oct 6, 2019

papasqueeze said:
p.s it took 22 hours to print motor mount with 0.4 nozzle for me

22 hours...Holy Frack are that slow. What speeds you printing at ?

papasqueeze · Oct 6, 2019

That was super slow quality was still poor in places

Whipped one out in 12 last night

Insert Coin · Oct 6, 2019

I've got my SFX100 running! Main culprit was a cheap button box controller which picked up EMI badly, I unplugged it for now. My Fanatec handbrake acts up too (erractic behaviour, needs a separate ground cable), so I unplugged that one too. And my windsim Arduino didn't work anymore: the USB-to-serial chip on the board is defective, this caused trouble too. Unplugged it and I finally have motion!!
FYI: my son and I did some EMI measurements this afternoon with his oscilloscope. EMI is mostly emitted at the driver's power output to the servo motor, through the servo power cable. Shielding of the power cable to the servo motor helps immensely to reduce EMI. Even simple household aluminium foil (connected to ground) around the cable reduces EMI by 90%. Routing the servo cables through the channels of the aluminium profiles of your rig (connected to ground) reduces EMI by 50% (applies only to the unexposed parts of the cable).

Rollux · Oct 7, 2019

RCR_Finn said:
Thanks. How many top and bottom layers, how many wall lines?

2mm walls and top and bottom, so 7 lines/layers

RCR_Finn · Oct 7, 2019

Rollux said:
2mm walls and top and bottom, so 7 lines/layers

Thanks. I have couple more questions.

-Did you have retraction enabled?
-What line width are you using?

Based on 2mm walls and 7 lines/layers it sounds like you would be using 0.28 line width? I am a little confused with the line width settings, I've been trying to print with 0.9mm line width, which to me would sound logical with a 0.6mm nozzle, but for me the lines are not sticking together. I.e. line adhesion (as opposed to layer adhesion) seems to be the most prevalent problem for me right now. Yesterday I tried printing again, I got a perfect test "box", with exactly 0.9mm thick walls and exactly 20mm x/y/z measures, but when I started printing a motor mount again, I got maybe 10 layers and a clogged nozzle again. Mind you, before I started trying to print, I did replace my extruder with a Bondtech bowden setup (which I ofcourse also calibrated), and cleaned the nozzle etc.

So I am wondering if my clogs are caused by retraction, IIRC I have 6.5mm & 25mm/s in the settings. Printing temps are 230C and 60C, based on a temp tower I seemed to be getting best results at 230C with a 0.6mm nozzle.

I certainly didn't expect the printing of the parts to be this damn hard, considering that I upgraded my printer and have been tinkering with 3D printers for 6-7months already before this.

papasqueeze · Oct 7, 2019

I have a problem with cura the on the first layer the nozzle seems to be miles away from the bed so it just extruding into thin air,

I've set bed height and it works fine in splicer

What setting is it to get this down to bed

RCR_Finn · Oct 7, 2019

papasqueeze said:
I have a problem with cura the on the first layer the nozzle seems to be miles away from the bed so it just extruding into thin air,

I've set bed height and it works fine in splicer

What setting is it to get this down to bed

Sounds like there would be some special gcode sent to the printer in the start of your cura-sliced prints, so that the Z-axis is moved. Or another option is that the gcode in start of your cura-prints doesn't include homing the axis. Are you sure that you are using the correct printer profile in Cura?

papasqueeze · Oct 7, 2019

Yes I believe so

Seem weird I've just updated to 4.3 I think and it's happening since then

First an d last height is set to about 1.7mm will this be what's wrong?

Rollux · Oct 7, 2019

papasqueeze said:
Yes I believe so

Seem weird I've just updated to 4.3 I think and it's happening since then

First an d last height is set to about 1.7mm will this be what's wrong?

Yep, that’d be what’s wrong- trying to make a 1.7mm high layer in one go.

@RCR_Finn Ive not touched line width so it is whatever Cura sets for a 0.6nozzle. I just set 2mm thick walls and top/bottom layers and let Cura do the rest. I have retraction enabled, 4mm at 100mm/s.

C64 · Oct 7, 2019

papasqueeze said:
hi guys new printing problem for me now!
ive change to some esun black filament and i keep getting little bubbles in my prints
bag was all air tight when it shipped
im not hearing any popping or boiling from extrusion so have ruled out moisture
any help?
im printing at 65 bed 190 extrusion to start then 60 /190 main

I had 1 reel of PLA that did this, it appeared to be moisture in the filament boiling and creating bubbles. I sent it back as faulty. The replacement PLA ( same spec ) was ok.

ThugUK · Oct 7, 2019

Thinking about buying an ultra wide Samsung C43J89 monitor and want to know if anyone has this model either attached to the rig or separate.
Give me some reviews/impressions and photos please.