The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

frodus · Oct 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno,
Absolutely! Saxxon earned my respect for the SFX100 project and for sharing it with the world.

But please realize, respect is not only earned, but lost. Saxxon's response was to tell me to leave the thread when I shared my project (apparently because I wasn't using HIS recommended motion controller). After seeing his response towards me and a handful of responses to others on other threads, I've lost a lot of respect for him.

Sorry I even shared my project...........

papasqueeze · Oct 14, 2019

Help guys I'm pulling my hair out

All my 3d prints are curling at the edges

I've tried cool printing at 190 50 bed I've tried 200 60 bed

Fast printing slow printing

Any advice?

Furnace Inferno · Oct 14, 2019

frodus said:
Furnace Inferno,
Absolutely! Saxxon earned my respect for the SFX100 project and for sharing it with the world.

But please realize, respect is not only earned, but lost. Saxxon's response was to tell me to leave the thread when I shared my project (apparently because I wasn't using HIS recommended motion controller). After seeing his response towards me and a handful of responses to others on other threads, I've lost a lot of respect for him.

Sorry I even shared my project...........

That’s not how I read it, he was simply saying if you want support for the SFX-100 then you won’t be able to get it in here for that controller as it’s a completely different software and controller package.

I think what Saxxon is probably arguing is it’s the very heart of the system, not the hardware because he is providing ongoing support and actually you should be looking to the Thanos thread as strictly speaking it’s not a full SFX-100 build.

Clearly a number of people disagree but when you look at the ethos of the build a separate commercial controller being used with the project is not what it was setup with in mind. Anyway I’m not going to bother getting involved anymore but I’d rather people didn’t piss off the creator and potentially ruin it for the rest of us!

Spikar · Oct 14, 2019

Cool.

Back on topic.

When is there another group buy for the SFX-Shield!

Hees · Oct 14, 2019

What material are you printing?
And post some pix

papasqueeze said:
Help guys I'm pulling my hair out

All my 3d prints are curling at the edges

I've tried cool printing at 190 50 bed I've tried 200 60 bed

Fast printing slow printing

Any advice?

papasqueeze · Oct 14, 2019

Hi I'm printing pla

Hees · Oct 14, 2019

Print without heated bed not all, when you are sure your bed is cool, level your bed and you should be good to go, if you are using glass, make a high salt solution soak a tissue or whatever wipe the surface, that should give perfect adhesion, if you are using paiters tape or so some glue stick will do

Hees · Oct 14, 2019

Also I recommend printing either abs or petg, more durable

papasqueeze · Oct 14, 2019

I thought a cooler bed would cause more warp?
I'll give it a whirl tho
Seems ok for about 10-15 mm then starts to pull away from bed not much but enuf to ruin print

o Tiger Feet o · Oct 14, 2019

You can try a heat activated hairspray. Its not something ive had to do myself, but ive read it works really well.

Spray it on, as the bed warms up the hairspray becomes sticky... Should be available in your supermarket / Amazon.

papasqueeze · Oct 14, 2019

I've altered z stop to try and squidge first layer down a bit more too

scoobyzilla · Oct 14, 2019

I have spent two weeks tuning the printing, following teaching tech and really trying to get my head round everything (BL touch, bed levelling, G Code etc) I am using simply3d, Ender 3 Pro. I have spent a while trying to research the cause of this myself, but without success - and I have seen some lovely prints (to my frustration!!) on here and wonder why mine are still sub standard in my view. I have got the dimensions correct after carefully adjusting the extruder distance, and also working on the thickness of the print (following Michael's guides) but i cant seem to get to a resolution on why the top outer layers are not bonded? Could it be under extrusion? I am suing PLA, I have the bed at 60 (print became detached on another trial at 47) and head at 210 - this is one at 190 but no different at 210 - I have also slowed things down a bit by about 20 % - using my finger to exaggerate the issue - any comments most welcome

saxxon66 · Oct 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
That’s not how I read it, he was simply saying if you want support for the SFX-100 then you won’t be able to get it in here for that controller as it’s a completely different software and controller package.

I think what Saxxon is probably arguing is it’s the very heart of the system, not the hardware because he is providing ongoing support and actually you should be looking to the Thanos thread as strictly speaking it’s not a full SFX-100 build.

Clearly a number of people disagree but when you look at the ethos of the build a separate commercial controller being used with the project is not what it was setup with in mind. Anyway I’m not going to bother getting involved anymore but I’d rather people didn’t piss off the creator and potentially ruin it for the rest of us!

@Furnace Inferno thank you for your support, I really appreciate it.

Most of the people who disagree with you are in team Thanos.
So it doesn't really come as a surprise

All what frodus shared is that he received some printed parts (from someone else) and a controller box from PT using Thanos controller.
This is the exact opposite of what this project is about. DIY

frodus · Oct 14, 2019

Saxxon,
I do appreciate the SFX100 design and I fully intend on donating regardless. I'm in No "Camp" at the moment. I'm just gathering parts, and I only wanted to share my progress of my build.

Please realize that Not everyone has the experience, time and money to do the build exactly as you intend, and may look for other options to ease the investment in time and money. For my life, the limits are not money, but time.

I have a job that takes up a lot of my spare time for which I have to travel. I also have a side business doing consulting. Unfortunately this means I don't have enough of the required time to oversee 3D printing, plus the learning curve to do so, and the purchase of a printer. I was looking for a Motion kit before I saw the SFX100, but couldn't find much. When I did find the SFX100 design, it looked like it fit the bill, and I was speaking with a friend of mine to help with 3D printing. He runs a 3D print business, but he's booked out for a couple months. I looked around and there were a couple people that offered to help the community print parts and I did take one of them up on it because they had experience doing so. They did so for free, no strings.

I didn't choose the Arduino board because I wanted something that could withstand more of an industrial environment and the vibration, but also something that had an enclosure. I see now that there are daughterboards available, but they weren't ready/available when I was looking. It was just a component choice, like your choice of leadscrew manufacturer. No harm intended.

Lighten up a bit, I'm not out to get you. I just want to build something that fits the spare time in my life.

HoiHman · Oct 14, 2019

Because my SFX100 rig is portable, i can slide the pedal section in and out for easier transportation

Downside of this is that front of the rig is open ended and had no connection between the two main 80/20 profiles. Only in extreme conditions when the rig is leaning one way, i could notice some flex.

Time to change this. I designed two endplates and had them cut by taylormadesteel.com out of 10mm thick steel

I call them : Flex killers

Now even in the most extreme conditions, there's no flex at all anymore.

diablo2112 · Oct 14, 2019

scoobyzilla said:
I have spent two weeks tuning the printing, following teaching tech and really trying to get my head round everything

Thanks for the picture. That print is severely under extruded. You need to up the flow rate on your printer by a lot, perhaps 20-30%. I'm not familiar with the Ender or your slicer, so I'm not sure how to do this. On the Prusa, you can adjust flow either in the slicer (extrusion multiplier) or during a print (under Settings>Flow). I'd concentrate on printing a small benchmark, and getting the flow dialed in. Google how to calibrate flow for your printer. You want lines touching each other, but no blobs.

Regarding delamination and curling. First, fix the flow problem, above. Then, print with a brim. I use 5mm, some use 10mm. Make your brim 1 layer high. This will be an option in the slicer. Also, you need to carefully tune your first-layer Z-height. Lots of tutorials online for how to do this. Your printer may have a calibration wizard to help you with this as well. If you'll post a pic of the bottom of your print, we can tell you how well your first-layer Z-height is adjusted. Too high can cause delamination problems.

Temperatures. You want a 60 degree bed. Ignore folks that say no bed heating. PLA is perfectly fine for these prints, it works great. You're getting terrible adhesion in your prints. I'd try a hotend temp of 210 or maybe 215. 190 is way too low for these massive parts. If the tops of your parts are delaminating (like shown in your picture), you may have your printer in a drafty location, too. Print in a space without drafts, away from lots of air movement, or consider installing your printer in an enclosure.

Good luck.

RCR_Finn · Oct 14, 2019

scoobyzilla said:
I have spent two weeks tuning the printing, following teaching tech and really trying to get my head round everything (BL touch, bed levelling, G Code etc) I am using simply3d, Ender 3 Pro. I have spent a while trying to research the cause of this myself, but without success - and I have seen some lovely prints (to my frustration!!) on here and wonder why mine are still sub standard in my view. I have got the dimensions correct after carefully adjusting the extruder distance, and also working on the thickness of the print (following Michael's guides) but i cant seem to get to a resolution on why the top outer layers are not bonded? Could it be under extrusion? I am suing PLA, I have the bed at 60 (print became detached on another trial at 47) and head at 210 - this is one at 190 but no different at 210 - I have also slowed things down a bit by about 20 % - using my finger to exaggerate the issue - any comments most welcome
View attachment 329266

I was fighting with this problem among others when I decided to go with the 0.6mm nozzle, for which I have shared my frustrations on the previous few pages. In the end for me the main problem ended up being too low a temperature after all, that's why the lines were not fusing to each other. But in addition, you have to have your extrusion just right as well, so in case you haven't already done so, calibrate your extruder as well, and only when you are sure the extruder is spot on calibrated, go and up the flow if needed. But try printing with a bit higher temperature too.

scoobyzilla · Oct 14, 2019

@diablo2112 @RCR_Finn

So I had spent a great deal of time calibrating the extruder - e.g 100mm requested - 100mm passed - my first prints were too big to fit inside the metal extrusion - maybe by 1mm overall, so i worked on dimensional accuracy - but maybe i over egged it- i also introduced a fan for cooling and maybe that was a big mistake! your right my house is drafty and i get temperature variation in the room unfortunately - but its the best i can do, however you have both confirmed my suspicion which is its under extruding - i have increased this and will see - going to print smaller sections of the slider to trial fit - in terms of temp my normal is 210 and 60 - 190 was just me experimenting - so currently no fan, 210/60 8% increase in extrusion multiplier - thank you both for taking the time to input -

update so this is with a increase in multuplier from 0.72 to 0.80 - still quite gappy I think so will increase gain once i have trial fitted this and then back to tuning the extruder maybe?

Insert Coin · Oct 14, 2019

EMI in pictures (20 mV per devision):

Note: on picture 6 and 7 I'm holding the EMI probe in mid air, about 15 cm from the cables.
Running the cables through your rig shields EMI even better than I thought. Cables in 'open air', well...