The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Jasje]

I've started printing my motor mounts but I'm getting warping. Printer is an original Prusa MK3s with the settings from the opensfx.com website.

I've added an enclosure to my printer but without success, second print came exactly the same. Right rear corner is coming up at least 3mm.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to prevent this?

 

[Insert Coin]

Print using a brim. Try to lower the bed temperature.

 

[Insert Coin]

Do you have ferrite cores on youre usb cabels? And where do youre servo drivers stand relative to youre rig? My pedals whent berserk after 10 min of driving. And i moved my servo drivers away (did stand in front of the rig) and ofter that i dident have on singel problem. But i have A net filter, my rig is grounded and ferrite cores on both sides of my usb cabels.

Turn the drivers up to 3000rpm and try changing intensety and smoothning and you can turn this thing on to A undrivable beast.
But if you havent donated for expert mode you shuld do that, some profilen on the discord server that you can try out and you can adjust how mutch pitsh you have on the rig so you feel you go up more.

Yes, I already had ferrite cores added on all USB cables. Rig is connected to ground now. I am using a Schaffner FN 2090 net filter.
Luckily my pedals are working again (tested with the servos powered off only). Why they wouldn't yesterday evening remains a mystery to me.
I will route all servo cables through the channels of my grounded rig to provide some shielding. I have the controllers to the left of the rig in 'open air' (connected to ground), but maybe I should install them in a metal case.

 

[diablo2112]

Lovely prints. What filament are you using?

Filament One Dark Grey Glint. Another filament I use is Prusament Galaxy Black. These are glitter/glint filament which look great and the glint helps to hide the layer lines.

Downsides are they cost a bit more than generic PLA and they can be picky about extruders. I've had these filaments jam up in a stock extruder; I upgraded to Bondtech 3:1 geared extruders, and these filaments have printed great ever since.
----
regarding your lifted print, above. Don't use the enclosure. High-temps can make this problem worse. Print with a 5mm brim, and perhaps a touch from the gluestick on the print bed to help solve this problem. Finally, watch your print in progress. If it's lifting, just abandon the print and start again. I have a box full of failed prints, including this problem. If you'll post a pic of the bottom of the print, we can tell you how well your z-height is adjusted as well. That's the other key to getting good bed adhesion.

 

[RCR_Finn]

I've started printing my motor mounts but I'm getting warping. Printer is an original Prusa MK3s with the settings from the opensfx.com website.

I've added an enclosure to my printer but without success, second print came exactly the same. Right rear corner is coming up at least 3mm.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to prevent this?

I would go a bit higher in temp on the initial layer and make a wider brim, at least 10mm.

 

[RCR_Finn]

Downsides are they cost a bit more than generic PLA and they can be picky about extruders. I've had these filaments jam up in a stock extruder; I upgraded to Bondtech 3:1 geared extruders, and these filaments have printed great ever since.

I also have a Volcano hotend and Bondtech extruder with a pancake stepper awaiting installing, as well as the BLTouch. I have just been putting off installing those, as I would need to be able to print the mount out of PETG first to install the hotend and direct drive. Plus I need to modify my printing cabinet to be able to feed the filament from the top. But as I printed another half a dozen CHEP cubes last night, trying to find the settings for the 0.6mm print on the stock hotend, and thought I finally did by increasing the flow just a notch (100% to 103%), just to find another failed motor mount in my printer this morning, I am starting to have second thoughts... The filament had jammed, and the stock extruder had chewed pretty much through it by morning, having printed about 1cm height of a part, and then being stuck for another 6cm of height...

I have the parts to install the Bondtech in a bowden tube setup as well, so maybe that would help a bit with the extrusion. Also got the parts to install the BLtouch with the stock hotend, just got to hack the +5V rail of the motherboard with an LM2596 stepdown converter as the SKR Mini mobo's +5v rail is crap and produces too much ripple for the BLtouch to work.

Had I bought a Prusa to start with, I could have spent maybe 50 hours of my life quite differently than trying to make an Ender work right.

 

[papasqueeze]

Do you guys ever do any finishing by hand to your printed parts?

I've printed the circuit box and it came out ok but I've printed other stuff and it came out horrible and warped all over, hopefully just due to cheap filament, I'm printing the bump stops now so we shall see how they come out

 

[Insert Coin]

I only removed the brim - job done. Had to tap the too small M4 / M5 bolt holes in the SFX parts, but that's a 3D design issue, not a 3D printing issue as far as I can tell.

 

[digitalmonk1973]

I've started printing my motor mounts but I'm getting warping. Printer is an original Prusa MK3s with the settings from the opensfx.com website.

I've added an enclosure to my printer but without success, second print came exactly the same. Right rear corner is coming up at least 3mm.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to prevent this?

As suggested use a 1 layer height 5mm wide brim. It sticks the corners to the print bed like glue but is super easy to remove since it's only 0.25mm thick.

 

[thefost]

Has anyone tried using the SFX-100 actuators in a 3-actuator 3dof configuration? Is it even possible?

 

[Spikar]

What filaments are you guys using to print the parts?
PLA or PETG?

 

[RCR_Finn]

PLA

 

[wrxawd123]

Are the internal sliders the only part that requires the exact precision and dimensional correctness? Reason I ask is because I have access to free 3d printing except the slider is just slightly too big, I was wondering if I could just print all my other parts using this printer and just have my sliders printed by friend who has an accurate printer. Do the other parts require such precision? Assuming parts like the floor cups obviously do not

 

[Insert Coin]

The parts for the linear and fixed bearing can be tricky too: print them a bit too small and the bearing won't fit.

 

[ThugUK]

My sliders were too large also, I filed them down until I could tap the in. They are now nice and smooth.
If they break I will just print some more.

 

[papasqueeze]

hi guys new printing problem for me now!
ive change to some esun black filament and i keep getting little bubbles in my prints
bag was all air tight when it shipped
im not hearing any popping or boiling from extrusion so have ruled out moisture
any help?
im printing at 65 bed 190 extrusion to start then 60 /190 main

 

[Insert Coin]

hi guys new printing problem for me now!
ive change to some esun black filament and i keep getting little bubbles in my prints
bag was all air tight when it shipped
im not hearing any popping or boiling from extrusion so have ruled out moisture
any help?
im printing at 65 bed 190 extrusion to start then 60 /190 main

I think you are printing too hot. Try lowering the nozzle (hot end) temperature.
Solutions for other common 3D printing issues can be found here: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/.

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

hi guys new printing problem for me now!
ive change to some esun black filament and i keep getting little bubbles in my prints
bag was all air tight when it shipped
im not hearing any popping or boiling from extrusion so have ruled out moisture
any help?
im printing at 65 bed 190 extrusion to start then 60 /190 main

Too much humidity at your area perhaps? Try drying the filament before printing:
https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-Printing-Filament-Storage-Measuring/dp/B07HP3SPMW/ref=asc_df_B07HP3SPMW/

Or this one (I have been using this to dry my filements):
https://www.amazon.com/PrintDry-FD1...73YJKCLB/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/134-5885461-5334000

 

[Martijn Wieling]

Dear all,

Just an update regarding purchasing the shafts etc for the SFX-100. There has been a suggestion to purchase these items from NTL bearings (Amy). Based on my experience, I would *not* recommend this. First they made a mistake regarding the customs invoice (they did not indicate the shipping cost, which means that their shipping provider, DHL, calculates their own shipping costs), resulting in a too high customs invoice (EUR 40 more than it should have been), which I had to pay before being able to get the shipment.

Then the hollow shafts they sent were not according to specifications (three were longer than they should have been). To their credit, they resent them. However, in this case, they failed to chamfer the shafts on one end. And even with the pictures sent to them (see below), they refuse to acknowledge one side is not chamfered. So all in all, not a good experience, so if possible, I'd use a different supplier.

With kind regards,
Martijn

 

[digitalmonk1973]

What filaments are you guys using to print the parts?
PLA or PETG?

PLA, I use this stuff for all my PLA printing.
https://filaments.ca/collections/featured-products/products/pla-filament-black-1-75mm