The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

I was kind of interpreting the email as those inserts not being designed for the profile and so it’s our fault for not using them as designed?

minderacer · Mar 12, 2019

Todd Pakiz said:
Did you find any inserts in the US? I am in MN, and have a few left...(have to find them in my box of 'extras')

I'm good now, I subconsciously ordered 36 when I thought I ordered 34. Thank you

sn4il · Mar 12, 2019

That makes me worry. I'm still waiting for my package. It was shipped on March 6th. I will report back when I get it.
I'm also building full redneck version of actuator based on 20mm ball screw and 40mm shaft.
I replaced aluminum profile with 4 12mm rods and 3d printed case.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM2.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5685.JPEG
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5689.JPEG

I believe same can be done to original SFX-100.
sn4il

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 12, 2019

For what its worth my kinetec order was perfect. Ive drilled all 32 inserts in 30 mins.

I should be happy.... but I feel bad....

My next bit to do is sand my sliders abit. Should the sliders be errrrrrrrrr free to 'slide' in the profile or is a super snug fit better? (ie bash them in with a plastic mallet)

Mascot · Mar 12, 2019

sn4il said:
That makes me worry. I'm still waiting for my package. It was shipped on March 6th. I will report back when I get it.
I'm also building full redneck version of actuator based on 20mm ball screw and 40mm shaft.
I replaced aluminum profile with 4 12mm rods and 3d printed case.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM2.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5685.JPEG
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5689.JPEG

I believe same can be done to original SFX-100.
sn4il

Interesting!

BenKay · Mar 12, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
For what its worth my kinetec order was perfect. Ive drilled all 32 inserts in 30 mins.

I should be happy.... but I feel bad....

My next bit to do is sand my sliders abit. Should the sliders be errrrrrrrrr free to 'slide' in the profile or is a super snug fit better? (ie bash them in with a plastic mallet)

My understanding is that they should be a "slip fit"...i.e. you shouldn't have to hammer them in or use significant force to move them, they should slide under their own weight ideally or with very low force, but there should be no rotational play.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 12, 2019

BenKay said:
My understanding is that they should be a "slip fit"...i.e. you shouldn't have to hammer them in or use significant force to move them, they should slide under their own weight ideally or with very low force, but there should be no rotational play.

I think you're right going off the videos ive seen. It would certainly make fitting easier. I best order some more elbow grease then!

minderacer · Mar 12, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
Well was happy to find my Kinetik shipment came in today ! After unpacking and checking the parts it's quite clear we need to find a different supplier. Not only are all of the profile pieces scratched up (which doesn't matter much to me) but one of the corners is pretty bent up. It won't affect functionality but not what I expect after dealing with other extrusion companies like Misumi in the states (flawless small orders for the past two years).
Worse than any of the above, 26 of the 34 inserts are the wrong / crappy kind. Now what the hell to do?'

EDIT:
There is hope. I experimented a bit and found that if you have at least a single good insert you can go ahead and drive it into the hole, cut some threads, and then rotate it back out. This gives you some threads cut into the hole so you can go back and now attempt to thread in the bad insert and it won't completely bind up on you as it doesn't have as much material to cut through. Going back in with the bad insert wasn't easy and definitely required some force but it worked!
I did have a heck of a time removing my hex socket tool from the bad insert and found that the edges of the tool were already wearing after a single insertion. This may require multiple hex tools so they don't strip out. I would also think using an impact driver may not be the right tool as the repetitive impact to the tool may promote stripping.

Very smart, I didn't think of that. Bottom line you can still use the "off brand" inserts, but ititakes more told and time. I found that a 7/16-20 tap worked perfect for me. Though you need to use red thread locker after tapping.

minderacer · Mar 12, 2019

sn4il said:
That makes me worry. I'm still waiting for my package. It was shipped on March 6th. I will report back when I get it.
I'm also building full redneck version of actuator based on 20mm ball screw and 40mm shaft.

I replaced aluminum profile with 4 12mm rods and 3d printed case.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM2.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5685.JPEG
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5689.JPEG

I believe same can be done to original SFX-100.
sn4il

This is interesting, I was thinking about all thread and an aluminum tube sandwiched between 2 custom 3d printed ends would make a decent alternative to the extrusion. And probably cheaper.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

I ordered last week and haven’t heard anything about delivery and it still says it’s in progress. I changed the language to English and noticed it redirects to a different store with some things with slightly different names (same part numbers) so maybe it is handled differently?

sn4il · Mar 12, 2019

You should receive an email with DHL tracking # as soon as it ships.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

sn4il said:
You should receive an email with DHL tracking # as soon as it ships.

I dropped them an email in translated German as I’m not sure what length I ordered as it doesn’t say but either the price has shot up by €16 per meter or I’ve somehow entered the wrong amount as mine was only €88 base cost and now it’s €105 but not sure how I would have ordered 210mm but if I have then I need it changed ASAP.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 12, 2019

My unit price was 26,33 € for 250mm.

ScottSonder · Mar 12, 2019

minderacer said:
Very smart, I didn't think of that. Bottom line you can still use the "off brand" inserts, but ititakes more told and time. I found that a 7/16-20 tap worked perfect for me. Though you need to use red thread locker after tapping.

The inserts drop in the correct way after the tap, and was it a hand tap or just with a drill? I'm guessing the 7/16-20 fit is not as quite tight which is why you're recommending the thread locker?

Don't have my shipment yet, but paid on the 26th, so it looks like I'll be in the same boat. Any and all detail would be helpful since it sounds like you've got all yours in without extreme stress

Edit: read up more on tapping, looks like it fits drills but generally this is done with a tap wrench, good information to know. I've got a 7/16-20 tap and a big ole tap wrench in my cart now.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
My unit price was 26,33 € for 250mm.

Not including the €16 cutting fee right?

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 12, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Not including the €16 cutting fee right?

Correct.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
Correct.

Hmm, I don’t know what’s gone on with mine then because that’s the same price I get if I put it in now but no length equals what I’ve been charged which is €88.50 for 4 the closest is €88.48 for 4 210mm. Does it say on your order what length you went for as mine is blank and if I try to reorder it gives me 4 x 1m in the basket!

MeNoMoney · Mar 12, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
I dropped them an email in translated German as I’m not sure what length I ordered as it doesn’t say but either the price has shot up by €16 per meter or I’ve somehow entered the wrong amount as mine was only €88 base cost and now it’s €105 but not sure how I would have ordered 210mm but if I have then I need it changed ASAP.

Here's what I paid few weeks ago.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 12, 2019

Ive checked my emails and account but there is no mention of sizes.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 12, 2019

Yep something has definitely gone wrong with mine then because it’s impossible to even get the €88.50 I paid from any 4 unit combination!

Where is best to email, I sent one yesterday but got no reply. I’m reluctant to go via PayPal since another member got told not to email through there but I’m thinking I may need to cancel and reorder at this point.