The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[BluePotato00]

I find it fine. I'm only 6'1" and slim build, but it's never felt cramped. It's wide enough for me to sink the seat within the frame. Actually, thinking about it, I like the narrower width as the gear shifter and handbrake are nice and close.
Planning on dropping an armchair into it or something..?

I wonder whether having the SFX100 actuators wider apart is beneficial or detrimental?

My rig is 27" (69cm) wide at its widest point not including the actuators.

For a reference point, my actuators are:

• 27" (69cm) apart left-to-right
• 29" (74cm) apart front-to-back

These measurements are at the actuators closest points (not center-to-center)

 

[ScottSonder]

I've tried to scour for this info, getting familiar with 3D printing, what's the max dimensions we need to print here? Looking at a 140mmx140mmx140mm or 5.5" x 5.5" x 5.5" printer. I'm asuming that's definitely enough clearing to print the motor mount which looks to be the largest?

 

[Mascot]

P1 slightly narrower than my GT1. I find mine perfect but I am a smaller guy, maybe low 70kg's, 166cm. I have had a hard enough time getting handbrake, seq and h pattern shifter to mount all at the same time, let alone flight gear. I have it really good now after some more tinkering, though, due to the dropping of the seat I can now have my h pattern right beside my thigh like in a real car. It's awesome!

Those brackets really turned into something didn't they? They're super good. I've basically done what you have but using profile instead of brackets. I might try that way, actually. I have left them on the V3 for now but I might end up keeping them. It's the same thing anyway, just a different way of doing it.

You can get your brackets down probably to the final slot in the main rail. You'd be totally sunk in then. I think that's what metalnwood did for his, dropped the seat right down into the frame. Rowan was mentioning this also. Having the seat rails almost connected under the main rails to get maximum drop in the seat.

Ooh, I like the sound of having the shifter and handbrake down by my thigh. I'll do some tinkering (which is as much fun as the actual driving, lol). I don't think I'll be able to drop the brackets down to the lowest channel due to the rake adjustment lever (see my first pic above) but should certainly be able to go one lower.
Got a feeling I'll have to lower my bloody TV wall mount next after carefully positioning it recently based on the seat height with SFX and NLMv3 both installed. It's fixed to a solid wall but the internal blockwork is thermalite, so relatively soft. I basically used massive coach screws and drove them into the blockwork like self-tappers.

 

[BluePotato00]

I've tried to scour for this info, getting familiar with 3D printing, what's the max dimensions we need to print here? Looking at a 140mmx140mmx140mm or 5.5" x 5.5" x 5.5" printer. I'm asuming that's definitely enough clearing to print the motor mount which looks to be the largest?

Yes, 5.5" cubed is certainly enough for even the largest SFX-100 3D printed part.

 

[78Mike78]

I'd Like to know this aswell .

Just brought a i3 clone. Trying to get to grips with it ... ask me in a week

 

[ScottSonder]

Yes, 5.5" cubed is certainly enough for even the largest SFX-100 3D printed part.

Thanks, Blue! Good luck with the loctite on that coupler!

 

[RowanH]

Hey guys n gals. Just letting you know Dirt 2.0 works with SimFeedback, same instructions as Dirt to enable UDP output, however you need to crank up the intensity sliders to get reasonable output.

Also, it might just be awesome fun ! I don't know why Dirt Rally never grabbed me, but for whatever reason 2.0 blasting through jumps is awesome on the SFX. You can get DR2 early if you buy the deluxe edition...

 

[BluePotato00]

Hey guys n gals. Just letting you know Dirt 2.0 works with SimFeedback, same instructions as Dirt to enable UDP output, however you need to crank up the intensity sliders to get reasonable output.

Also, it might just be awesome fun ! I don't know why Dirt Rally never grabbed me, but for whatever reason 2.0 blasting through jumps is awesome on the SFX. You can get DR2 early if you buy the deluxe edition...

I purchased the game, but can't start it in Steam. Many people seem to be playing it already. How is that since the release date isn't until Monday? In Steam, mine just says "Pre-load."

I understand that there might be early access codes given to reviewers, but even average Joes seem to be playing already!

Edit: Blast me and my pauper ways. I'll hit some of those jumps on Monday with my poor man's edition!

 

[saxxon66]

I purchased the game, but can't start it in Steam. Many people seem to be playing it already. How is that since the release date isn't until Monday? In Steam, mine just says "Pre-load."

I understand that there might be early access codes given to reviewers, but even average Joes seem to be playing already!

...
You can get DR2 early if you buy the deluxe edition...

 

[saxxon66]

Dirt Rally 2.0

It you have trouble to set up you input devices (like I did, wasted 1 hour of my lifetime ), you need to delete all assignments from every device first.

To get ffb from your DD wheel (Simucube, MMOS) you need to put some files into config folders.
Simply replace the DiviceDefines.xml under Steam/Steamapps/Common/Dirt 2.0/Input and paste into actionmaps the xml file for OSW MMOS or Simucube OSW.

(remove the .txt extension from the attachment first)

 

[anton_Chez]

@Mascot Just a quick reference for you. Now that my seat isn't moving, I can have it real close and there is no obstruction.

I was supposed to have the upgraded CSS shifter mount from SimLab but they sent me the standard one. I simply turned that one upside down and mounted it to the top of the main rail. It's slightly too low but I can make some adjustments and drill some extra holes that will allow raising it a little. It's awesome though now that I can once again use my handbrake with the h pattern. Removing it from the main rail has allowed me to free up a lot of room and also still run all the hardware I have at the same time.

Plus, it's probably more authentic down there as it would be in a road / rally / classic hardtop car at least.

 

[TimothyDDX]

My wife is impressed by my SFX-100... but not by the sound it makes downstairs shaking through the floor. The servos really are quite, but it is in my office on the second floor of our house and she says it sounds like a thunderstorm anywhere on our first floor, and that is with fairly quiet profiles. The good news is she is now good with me moving it out of my office into one of the rooms in our finished basement.
Let me reiterate, the servos are actually quieter than the control box of my GS-5 and much quieter than the GS-5 seat servos. The noise is from the weight transfer of a cockpit that is over 450lbs with a driver (200lb), GS-5 seat (80lb), DD wheel (30lb), and the 80/20 rig and all my transducers (in auto speak this would be sprung weight). I imagine a D- box with aggressive settings would have the same problems. Also I have Sorbathane sound isolating dampers under the feet, but it was not the feet that was the problem but the amount of power the actuators produce moving that 450lb+ sprung weight a couple inches (this was driving on a paved track, I have yet to try rally courses in the SFX-100 due to fear of how loud it will be). The good news is our basement is on a finished concrete slab so there will be no problems and I can make it as aggressive as I want.
I know others have brought this up in earlier posts and it is a build consideration I grossly underestimated. We live in very solid house that is ten years old, in an older house with thinner floors or an apartment I would think the reverberation through the floors would be even worse.

 

[anton_Chez]

I agree totally with the sound of the actuators vs the sound transfer through the house. This is what I was saying a little while ago. The operating noise of the hardware is nigh on silent yet the energy transfer can be brutal. I found this out the hard way. My sim room is in a basement of sorts, although it's on a timber sub floor, completely detached from the house above it. I still kept my wife up until 5am one night unknowingly, running the same AC profile I have been for a while but on a bumpy Queensland Raceway mod track. Found out the hard way the next morning when I got the death stare, wondering what I had done wrong.....

 

[Mascot]

I agree totally with the sound of the actuators vs the sound transfer through the house. This is what I was saying a little while ago. The operating noise of the hardware is nigh on silent yet the energy transfer can be brutal. I found this out the hard way. My sim room is in a basement of sorts, although it's on a timber sub floor, completely detached from the house above it. I still kept my wife up until 5am one night unknowingly, running the same AC profile I have been for a while but on a bumpy Queensland Raceway mod track. Found out the hard way the next morning when I got the death stare, wondering what I had done wrong.....

Just blast Zeppelin through the house on max volume and she'll never even know the SFX is on.

 

[RowanH]

@TimothyDDX sounds like you need to take leaf from the @anton_Chez school of relationship management, jump in a F1 car on Sebring, turn everything up and see how long before it gets upped and moved for you downstairs @anton_Chez, hope you bought flowers after that incident....

On another topic... @TimothyDDX for lateral g cueing on the GS5, do the bottom panels come into play at all in your setup, or are you only using the back panels? I was just thinking about this the other day when I had a go a GS5, and couldn't recall the seat bottom panels when going into corners, but definitely felt the back ones...

 

[TimothyDDX]

@RowanH the seat and back of the GS-5 should both put pressure in a corner, does not sound like it was tuned properly, but that happens if you rely on the autotune function.
The GS-5 and SFX-100 are awesome together!

 

[Mascot]

The polystyrene packing from the servo motors is quite useful for raising the chassis. Seems plenty strong enough, even after fitting the seat and testing the position. They build roads from this stuff.

 

[Mascot]

Most SFX100 setups I've seen have the bottom of the Kinetik actuator extrusion level with the base of the chassis rails, but this one has the actuators raised slightly up, effectively lowering the chassis CoG, which if often mentioned as being 'a good thing'. What are the pros and cons of this? Obviously, the pedal-end of the rig will possibly be in danger of hitting the floor at extremes of motion due to its distance from the front 'pivot', but if that's alll OK then it seems like a good idea?
I guess people maybe want the chassis a little higher to make ingress/egress a little easier, and maybe don't want any risk of trapping feet (or pets, or children) between the chassis and the floor..?

 

[C64]

View attachment 293221 View attachment 293222 View attachment 293221 View attachment 293222

Most SFX100 setups I've seen have the bottom of the Kinetik actuator extrusion level with the base of the chassis rails, but this one has the actuators raised slightly up, effectively lowering the chassis CoG, which if often mentioned as being 'a good thing'. What are the pros and cons of this? Obviously, the pedal-end of the rig will possibly be in danger of hitting the floor at extremes of motion due to its distance from the front 'pivot', but if that's alll OK then it seems like a good idea?
I guess people maybe want the chassis a little higher to make ingress/egress a little easier, and maybe don't want any risk of trapping feet (or pets, or children) between the chassis and the floor..?

I can’t see any problem with this other than the small risk of trapping feet underneath... but this can be easily offset by putting packers under the feet. On another point... I can see on your rig that you don’t have a cross member in the area of your front actuators, you really need one otherwise your rig will twist significantly. If you want to maximise stiffness each crossmember should have corner fixings front and back, top and bottom... so 4 per corner. The pictures below are the front and rear crossmembers on my rig.

 

[Mascot]

View attachment 293221 View attachment 293222 View attachment 293221 View attachment 293222
I can’t see any problem with this other than the small risk of trapping feet underneath... but this can be easily offset by putting packers under the feet. On another point... I can see on your rig that you don’t have a cross member in the area of your front actuators, you really need one otherwise your rig will twist significantly. If you want to maximise stiffness each crossmember should have corner fixings front and back, top and bottom... so 4 per corner. The pictures below are the front and rear crossmembers on my rig.
View attachment 293223 View attachment 293224

Thanks for the tips!
Yeah, I'm not sure what happened to that 160x40 front member - maybe I sold it when I had a clear-out of 'spares'. Or was one even supplied? I obviously didn't fit it when I originally built the P1. I didn't even have the NLMv3 at that stage so it was a completely static frame (and I had no plans to add motion) so maybe I figured it wasn't required on top of all the cross members for the pedal deck. I do have a lateral 160x40 cross-brace immediately in front of my seat which is actually closer to the front actuators than it would be at the end of the rig so I'm hoping that'll be doing a lot of stiffening.
I see now that I'd temporarily removed it in the earlier photo so I can understand how that would raise concerns - it looked like a big twisty accident waiting to happen without it.

I've got a spare piece of 80x40 the correct length so might plop that at the end of the rig. Can't do any harm.

Man, am I ever regretting offloading a bunch of spare extrusion, corner brackets, fixings etc in the middle of last year when I thought my rig was 'complete'. I couldn't foresee ever having a future use for them at them time, lol.