The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Specialist68]

Ouch! They always get you in the end

I'd better brace myself for more than that amount, as Amy has quoted me a higher price for the parts I requested.

Speaking of that, could anyone confirm that my parts/price list for ntl-bearing looks correct? I did ask a few days back but drew a blank

seems to me very cheap, I bought it in Germany much more expensive maybe better quality?

 

[Flag Ghost]

Have you got any piccies of your final setup? It sounds like an awesome combination, I might be (a little) jealous. A mate down the road has a GS5.....

I also tried out the GS-5 with VR (pimax) last night but I'm currently using the NLRv3 for motion. This was my first time combining them all as well. After some tuning, the GS5 really shined w/ the sustaining G forces BUT really surprised me how well it conveys the acceleration / surge forces as well. I experimented by turning off the NLRv3 to see how much I would miss it. Don't need it! I could barely tell the difference, in fact I preferred the seat fairly locked in compared to the independent swishing around. The GS-5 was able to fill in all the same feelings and more w/ exception of braking surge. The GS5 drops the paddles away for braking and, while it is good, it could definitely use a little pitch forward from let's say.. an SFX100. Will be selling the NLRv3 soon while I'm acquiring the SFX100 parts and redesigning my rig (AGAIN). Can't wait !

 

[wajdi]

I was very tempted to start this project, but I have no time to order all these components, tracking,3D printing ..... in the end I ordered a complete 4 pt-actuators from here
http://pt-actuator.com/proshow.asp?strID=156
I have actually contacted some guys from
X-Simulator.net that have already these actuators and they are very happy with them.
Technical specifications：
1.Stroke：150mm;
2.Push force：800N；
3.Speed:500mm/s;
4.Ball screw model：1610；
5.Servo motor flange 80 with 1kw
The guy( Shao) is very helpful and they have a very good customer service. When I receive them and complete my cockpit I will start a new thread about these actuators.
Sorry for the OT.

 

[jimbraj]

 

[wajdi]

 

[wajdi]

 

[ScottSonder]

I just finished installing (craming) the electronics into a repurposed MacPro Cheese grater case. I am based in US and I am using the 110 -> 220 transformer. Everything works - but I do not have a load on the motors yet. I am still contemplating running a dedicated 220 line. I am waiting for a clamp on connector for the multimeter - (Wifie is an Electrical Engineer) so she can check the amps running through the wiring and give me the OK to use the 110 wall outlet instead of running the new 220.

I'm presently at: purchased all parts, printed all necessary parts, received everything except the parts from emily (who no longer works there). I have tested feedback with iRacing - motors are turning etc when car is in motion.

I have some mods to do to my existing 8020 frame. I'm also going to put loc time on all connections - since I am waiting and I do not want to disassemble once this thing is up and running.

I hope to join you guys soon.

While I have been printing out models made by others, this is my first attempt at my own design: a 220 power distribution box that has 3d priced Wago connector holders.

My 220 box next to the arduino control box that others have been using.

I thought there was going to be more room, but the control units filled most of the case.

Is there a link to this 220 box design, or the name of the case being used? Looks great!

 

[EsxPaul]

seems to me very cheap, I bought it in Germany much more expensive maybe better quality?

I would guess better quality, especially if it is manufactured in Germany

 

[TimothyDDX]

I also tried out the GS-5 with VR (pimax) last night but I'm currently using the NLRv3 for motion. This was my first time combining them all as well. After some tuning, the GS5 really shined w/ the sustaining G forces BUT really surprised me how well it conveys the acceleration / surge forces as well. I experimented by turning off the NLRv3 to see how much I would miss it. Don't need it! I could barely tell the difference, in fact I preferred the seat fairly locked in compared to the independent swishing around. The GS-5 was able to fill in all the same feelings and more w/ exception of braking surge. The GS5 drops the paddles away for braking and, while it is good, it could definitely use a little pitch forward from let's say.. an SFX100. Will be selling the NLRv3 soon while I'm acquiring the SFX100 parts and redesigning my rig (AGAIN). Can't wait !

I think that we are running into a new (but exciting) challenge in that we are having multiple (NLRv3, SFX100, GS-5) motion systems that all provide motion feedback with multiple tools/controls. The challenge is deciding on which one provides which feedback (surge, sway, acceleration, attitude) the best and at what tuning level for the profiles. I think that the GS-5 provides great benefit for acceleration/corning so I will tune to optimize that. When using the SFX100 with the GS-5 last night in VR I realized that having bumps/vertical surges in the GS-5 along with the SFX100 was distracting so I will be detuning/disabling that. When going down the last turn at Lime Rock where there are a couple different patches of pavement I was getting bouncing that caused me to become disoriented in VR, which up until that point I thought the feedback was good. I think that others who have had their D-Box/SFX100 systems up and running for longer have said that they have their "friends coming over" setting that is extreme, and their "I want feedback but not distracting profile" for their own use. Combining the GS-5 with the SFX100 makes the extreme bouncing even more pronounced and points out the need to properly tune both to be complimentary. Not complaining about too many toys though...

Also I will be posting pics of the rig once my wiring is cleaned up this weekend.

 

[Mascot]

I would guess better quality, especially if it is manufactured in Germany

I think the 'German' ball screws and bearings are just resold Chinese parts. Might be wrong, but that's what I heard.. I was very happy with the Chinese stuff from Emily, anyway. Even with the VAT and import duty it was a LOT cheaper.

 

[MeNoMoney]

Dang, folks across the pond really have a hassle on those import fees. The one time I'm glad to be stateside.

Yer,
Usually around 25-30%ish in uk vat and import duty and then another £8-£13 clearance fee. I use to buy my sweetners from the US and was cheaper even with the 30% but no longer worth it with the much lower £-$ rates. I now dream of the good Ol' days of getting $2.00 for £1.00(lol)

 

[MeNoMoney]

Did anybody in the UK source somebody to do the 3d printing for them?

Thanks

I'd Like to know this aswell .

 

[TimothyDDX]

I used the suggestion of a 6u Rackmount Cabinet for my servo controllers, Arduino Leonardo and 110-220V 1000W up-converter. I also purchased two 1u rackmount blanks and moved the vertical mounts to about 9 inches from the door and mounted the 1u blanks across the top and bottom after measuring the height of the servo controllers. I did a simple pilot hole and then used #10 1/2inch sheet metal screws to secure the servo controllers to the 1u blanks. By moving the servo's to the front I had plenty of room to put the up-converter behind the servo controllers (and it is always on, with an external switch, just make sure to insert it before inserting the servo controllers). The Arduino Leonardo is mounted on Velcro beneath the servo controllers.
6u Rackmount Cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZXTKLM
2x 1u Rackmount blanks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y1VJD6Q

 

[Wmacky]

I used the suggestion of a 6u Rackmount Cabinet for my servo controllers, Arduino Leonardo and 110-220V 1000W up-converter. I also purchased two 1u rackmount blanks and moved the vertical mounts to about 9 inches from the door and mounted the 1u blanks across the top and bottom after measuring the height of the servo controllers. I did a simple pilot hole and then used #10 1/2inch sheet metal screws to secure the servo controllers to the 1u blanks. By moving the servo's to the front I had plenty of room to put the up-converter behind the servo controllers (and it is always on, with an external switch, just make sure to insert it before inserting the servo controllers). The Arduino Leonardo is mounted on Velcro beneath the servo controllers.
6u Rackmount Cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZXTKLM
2x 1u Rackmount blanks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y1VJD6Q

View attachment 292898 View attachment 292899 View attachment 292900

Very nice. These rack server units are slowly becoming the de-facto standard on these builds. I myself went with a 15U rack on rolling castors as I will be adding tactile amps.

Good Idea about mounting to blanks. I'll use that solution but a single large 1 piece blank for ease of alignment!

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

Is there a link to this 220 box design, or the name of the case being used? Looks great!

I just joined thingiverse. Since I am new, it won't be available until 2/24
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3446928

 

[BluePotato00]

In the past week I experienced what I think was my first coupler loosening problem. I would start a race just fine and then after a couple of minutes start to hear squeaking. Upon inspection, the front-left foot was off the ground. I could stop/start cycle in SimFeedback and it would be fine again, but the problem would return in a couple minutes. I first thought it was a problem with that servo, but it was moving fine. The problem was that the rear-right servo was too low thus causing the rig to sit on three feet with the front-left foot in the air. I must have been experiencing slippage in the rear-right servo motor coupler.

So I just finished propping the rear of my rig on paint cans and disconnected the rear right motor from the assembly, tighten all its top bolts, use blue loctite on the coupler and its bolts, and really torque them tight.

I had scuffed up the shafts with sandpaper and tried my best to file some lines on the shafts when I originally assembled them, so this was a surprise.

I'm now giving the loctite extra time to dry before getting back in the rig. Hopefully my fix worked and this was an isolated incident.

I'm surprised both the ball screw end and the shaft for the motor are round. Wouldn't both make more sense if they were squared off so slippage would be impossible?

 

[Mascot]

Took the NLMv3 off the other night after deciding that it'd be daft keeping it just for surge effects, no matter how awesome it might feel in conjunction with the SFX100. I guess I'll never know now, but maybe ignorance is bliss. You can't pine for something you've never experienced. Anyway, my old NLMv3 suspension brackets...

...have been split in twain, flipped through 90 degrees and repurposed as seat brackets...

They're rock-solid (it's 6.5mm aluminium) but I rescued a few of these 6mm stainless steel brackets from a rubbish skip in work (there were apparently HUNDREDS of them thrown away a few days earlier) and by using a countersunk socket screw...

...it acts as a wedge when tightened and jams the stainless steel bracket under the aluminium angle to act as extra stiffening.

I don't think these extra brackets are necessary (I can stand on one bracket and rock up and down without it moving a millimetre) but I like the way it worked out, mostly by chance. The hole size and position in the stainless steel bracket couldn't have been better positioned if they'd been designed that way.

I'm pretty sure I can drop these brackets into the next channel down to drop the seat by another 40mm without causing any clearance issues with the seat. The lower the better with the SFX100, yes?

 

[Wmacky]

Mascot,

Quick question. How do you feel about the P1 width? I have yet to assemble mine but I'm worried it will be tight. I'm a bigger guy, and will also use the rig for flight sims, which means a center stick and legs wide apart. I ask, because it seems most DIY rigs are built much wider.

 

[Mascot]

Mascot,

Quick question. How do you feel about the P1 width? I have yet to assemble mine but I'm worried it will be tight. I'm a bigger guy, and will also use the rig for flight sims, which means a center stick and legs wide apart. I ask, because it seems most DIY rigs are built much wider.

I find it fine. I'm only 6'1" and slim build, but it's never felt cramped. It's wide enough for me to sink the seat within the frame. Actually, thinking about it, I like the narrower width as the gear shifter and handbrake are nice and close.
Planning on dropping an armchair into it or something..?

I wonder whether having the SFX100 actuators wider apart is beneficial or detrimental?

 

[anton_Chez]

P1 slightly narrower than my GT1. I find mine perfect but I am a smaller guy, maybe low 70kg's, 166cm. I have had a hard enough time getting handbrake, seq and h pattern shifter to mount all at the same time, let alone flight gear. I have it really good now after some more tinkering, though, due to the dropping of the seat I can now have my h pattern right beside my thigh like in a real car. It's awesome!

Those brackets really turned into something didn't they? They're super good. I've basically done what you have but using profile instead of brackets. I might try that way, actually. I have left them on the V3 for now but I might end up keeping them. It's the same thing anyway, just a different way of doing it.

You can get your brackets down probably to the final slot in the main rail. You'd be totally sunk in then. I think that's what metalnwood did for his, dropped the seat right down into the frame. Rowan was mentioning this also. Having the seat rails almost connected under the main rails to get maximum drop in the seat.