The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[dedraro]

Formula 3 driver has a go on an SFX100 - you will have to turn auto-translate on if your german is as good as mine.

I saw it this morning, and I really like the surge implemented in this way, even just the seat could be fine, but it would require too much force for the motors to counteract the pressure on the pedal brake, right?

 

[NeedforSim]

I understand the urge to get the seating point as low as possible, but I've been thinking lately (please correct me if I'm wrong):

- the lower (closer) your seating point is positioned to the turning point of the actuators, the more realistic your pitch & roll effects will feel, but conversely, the less effective your surge & sway effects will be and they will start to feel more like pitch & roll effects...

- the higher (further away) your seating point is positioned from the turning point of the actuators, the less realistic your pitch & roll effects will feel and as an unwanted side effect, surge & sway effects will be felt when pitch & roll effects are induced. But conversely, the more effective your surge & sway effects will be and the more they will start to feel like lateral and longitudinal displacement in the horizontal plane...

- heave is not affected by seating position in relation to turning point

I say this, because lately I've really been enjoying surge & sway in AC. I haven't lowered my seating position on the P1 yet, but this thought experiment got me thinking, my surge & sway effects will feel less realistic and become more like pitch & roll effects if I lower my seating. And the actual pitch & roll effects feel kinda good at the moment. I also think that the pitch & roll effects are more of a slow movement, following the track slope and bank, but surge & sway effects are more of an energy kind of effect, they need to accelerate fast to give you that momentum, so it really comes down to tuning the profiles. Of course, the weight balance effect of braking is more realistic the closer you are seated to the turning point of the actuators. But I'm installing a harness tensioner to get some more feedback under braking

I hope this ramble makes any sense to someone, it's all just in my head and a purely theoretical thought experiment, but logically it makes sense to me and the feeling of surge & sway is really good right now. It actually sways me left & right with a kick, helping me feel grip loss in turns, making fast cornering on the limit really fun. And fore & aft for breaking or gear change and tire slippage during braking etc.

So it's a bit of a compromise, if you don't use surge & sway, lowering your seating position to get it as close as possible to the actuator turning point will makes pitch & roll feel more realistic, a better experience altogether.

But if you do use surge & sway, the closer you position your seating point to the turning point of the actuators, the more your surge & sway effects will start to feel like pitch & roll..

This is purely my opinion and I might be wrong, so I hope the developers can chime in here

You are right, even lowering the seat position will improve VR experience and can avoid motion sickness related issues. We need to match the movement that our eyes are perceiving with the movement that our body feels, If not, motion sickness will occur.

 

[HugoB]

This is Sophia Flörsch, a 17 year old F3 driver testing Florentins SFX100 rig.

http://sophiafloersch.info/

Sophia became famous through her accident in Macau in the F3 race.

She was asked how she felt about the simulator.
She says that she thinks it's super cool and that she has driven some simulators in her life before.

"The simulator moves very close to reality, especially with curbs.
The track is very well modeled and for her as a racer it is especially important how the bumps and curbs are represented. That's very close to the reality especially with the higher curbs.
It's also a lot of fun!
The team simulator is also good but static, you only get feedback from the steering wheel.
In contrast here, the complete rig moves and you notice setup changes directly and can understand them well."

Here is the link to Florentins post:
https://forum.virtualracing.org/showthread.php/113183-Sophia-Flörsch-testet-den-vsp-Motion-Simulator-QMS-mit-den-FSX100

Excited to see what her input can do for us, to make a better profile that is closer to reality?

 

[metalnwood]

@Mascot I agree it's better to get a file and make a number of gouges on the inside of the coupler and on the shaft.

@anton_Chez interesting, I didnt think the tnuts worked on the kinetic, I think I tried one and it wasn't quite the right size as kinetic is has a wider slot. Cant really remember though

 

[78Mike78]

Another UK builder ... parts on order.
£1400 ish in. Will be also purchasing printer shortly so add £100 to £700 on.

Great read. Exciting project. hopefully no divorce
Keep up the good work... thanks

 

[EsxPaul]

Guys, I'm having a browse of the Master Jiang store on AliExpress and need a couple of pointers, if possible.

Do I need to go for any of these options...

Please contact us, if you need:
2. Motor with Brake
4. MODBUS communication function for RS-232 and RS-485

I seem to remember earlier conversation about the Modbus option and that this may be supported in the future but not essential to the project as it stands. The motor with brake part, I have no recollection of?

 

[anton_Chez]

I think everyone here just orders the servos, with none of the other extras. You get the cables, servo driver and the servo motor itself.

 

[anton_Chez]

@metalnwood They don't fit perfectly but I was able to suspend them high enough in the channel with some folded up paper towel so that the bolt could reach the thread. Once the thread caught it was fine to remove the paper. You just need something to prop up the nut so that the bolts catch it. The channel is much deeper than the other ones but once you make contact, it does hold and doesn't pull through the top of the channel.

 

[TimothyDDX]

@Mascot I agree it's better to get a file and make a number of gouges on the inside of the coupler and on the shaft.

I assembled, tested off-rig, mounted and tested my rig this weekend. After mounting them I found that one of my actuators was slipping badly at the coupler with just the load of my rig and so I went ahead and removed and disassembled all my actuators. I then cleaned the coupler fitting really well with alcohol (top of ball screw shaft, coupler inside, and servo motor shaft). I then scored each one really well with a file like had been recommended and left the shavings on while reattaching the coupling. The fit was so much better, you could feel the grit while attaching the coupler and tightening it down.

I did not see this on the github or Rowan's site but think it should be part of the formal instructions. Also I think adding one M3 screw to the shipping list to remove the servo shaft key would be helpful as I did not have one laying around and had to make a quick trip to the hardware store for one.

 

[78Mike78]

Guys, I'm having a browse of the Master Jiang store on AliExpress and need a couple of pointers, if possible.

Do I need to go for any of these options...

Please contact us, if you need:
2. Motor with Brake
4. MODBUS communication function for RS-232 and RS-485

I seem to remember earlier conversation about the Modbus option and that this may be supported in the future but not essential to the project as it stands. The motor with brake part, I have no recollection of?

- Ordered with MODBUS for little extra ... gamble on future proofing if it goes that way.
- who needs brakes

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

I just finished installing (craming) the electronics into a repurposed MacPro Cheese grater case. I am based in US and I am using the 110 -> 220 transformer. Everything works - but I do not have a load on the motors yet. I am still contemplating running a dedicated 220 line. I am waiting for a clamp on connector for the multimeter - (Wifie is an Electrical Engineer) so she can check the amps running through the wiring and give me the OK to use the 110 wall outlet instead of running the new 220.

I'm presently at: purchased all parts, printed all necessary parts, received everything except the parts from emily (who no longer works there). I have tested feedback with iRacing - motors are turning etc when car is in motion.

I have some mods to do to my existing 8020 frame. I'm also going to put loc time on all connections - since I am waiting and I do not want to disassemble once this thing is up and running.

I hope to join you guys soon.

While I have been printing out models made by others, this is my first attempt at my own design: a 220 power distribution box that has 3d priced Wago connector holders.

My 220 box next to the arduino control box that others have been using.

I thought there was going to be more room, but the control units filled most of the case.

All neat when it's closed up.

 

[Requis]

I just finished installing (craming) the electronics into a repurposed MacPro Cheese grater case. I am based in US and I am using the 110 -> 220 transformer. Everything works - but I do not have a load on the motors yet. I am still contemplating running a dedicated 220 line. I am waiting for a clamp on connector for the multimeter - (Wifie is an Electrical Engineer) so she can check the amps running through the wiring and give me the OK to use the 110 wall outlet instead of running the new 220.All neat when it's closed up.

Way top go JP!
I ran a separate circuit (2Pole 15 AMP) breaker, with 12 Gage wire, and then put a different connector on the end (other than a standard plug) and labeled it so that there would never be any confusion if we moved. Then made my own cab tie cord wired directly into the Server chassis. Check your local codes but can't see it being much different.

Cheers,

requis

 

[TimothyDDX]

US Builder: Compared to everyone else who used an up-converter I actually went the opposite way. I have a 1000W 110-220 up-converter. My reasoning was that if I have a spike, it is probably because something is wrong and I would much rather to reset the circuit breaker on the up-converter, or at worse replace a fuse on it, than have to deal with damage to an actuator that is stuck for some reason (or decides to throw me or a friend off like an amusement park ride gone haywire). This has worked well for the last couple days I have had the rig built.
1. Servo's On, SimFeedback Stopped (Rig all the way down): 43.815 Watts @126V
2. Servo's On, SimFeedback Started (Rig at middle position): 60.533 Watts @126V
3. Servo's On, Simfeedback Started, in seat, Racing Maximum: 293.109 Watts @ 126V *edited from 221.020 after a more spirited GT3 session in iRacing

Voltage and Power measured from 110 outlet inline sensor at intervals of 1sec (I know our voltage is high, but apparently it is still in spec with our electric company). I thought about running a separate 220V line but after trying the up-converter I will be holding off unless I find a reason that justify's it. The high frequency hum of the servo's holding position is much louder than the up-converter.

 

[EsxPaul]

Back with another noob question for those that have trodden the path

I've just recieved this quotation from Amy at ntl-bearing. Does it look like everything is in order and I haven't missed anything?

 

[Mascot]

One thing I learnt the other day (thanks Henk!) is that the T-nuts (for mounting the actuators to your cockpit) won't necessarily be the twist-in type. If you have the slide-in type then you'll have to take the bottom bearing support off to slide the nuts in to the channel.
I'm flabbergasted (I love that word!) that this hasn't been mentioned before and that pre-fitting the T-nuts prior to finally closing off the actuator assembly isn't front and centre in the instructions. We need to avoid undoing/redoing the machine screws into plastic as much as possible as it'll weaken the thread. Fine-thread machine screws into plastic aren't really ideal anyway - something with a coarser thread would be stronger. A few of my fixings into the 3DP plastic parts already turn without locking, and that's with spring washers. And I was bloody careful putting them in.

 

[BrassEm]

Got some 31 x 24 x 3.5 O-Rings from
OJP Rubber o-ring Store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PC...300.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40394c4d5CVzsb
11 days ePacket to Aus.

 

[Ringorian]

One thing I learnt the other day (thanks Henk!) is that the T-nuts (for mounting the actuators to your cockpit) won't necessarily be the twist-in type. If you have the slide-in type then you'll have to take the bottom bearing support off to slide the nuts in to the channel.
I'm flabbergasted (I love that word!) that this hasn't been mentioned before and that pre-fitting the T-nuts prior to finally closing off the actuator assembly isn't front and centre in the instructions. We need to avoid undoing/redoing the machine screws into plastic as much as possible as it'll weaken the thread. Fine-thread machine screws into plastic aren't really ideal anyway - something with a coarser thread would be stronger. A few of my fixings into the 3DP plastic parts already turn without locking, and that's with spring washers. And I was bloody careful putting them in.

Maybe you took your driller top fast ? I use a slow one , everything still as IT should .. too fast Drilling Results in Heat which melts the plastic i think .. my opinion

Also people should Check What they have and experiment how things go and should be used If they never used Something Like this before ..

 

[Steve D]

One thing I learnt the other day (thanks Henk!) is that the T-nuts (for mounting the actuators to your cockpit) won't necessarily be the twist-in type. If you have the slide-in type then you'll have to take the bottom bearing support off to slide the nuts in to the channel.
I'm flabbergasted (I love that word!) that this hasn't been mentioned before and that pre-fitting the T-nuts prior to finally closing off the actuator assembly isn't front and centre in the instructions. We need to avoid undoing/redoing the machine screws into plastic as much as possible as it'll weaken the thread. Fine-thread machine screws into plastic aren't really ideal anyway - something with a coarser thread would be stronger. A few of my fixings into the 3DP plastic parts already turn without locking, and that's with spring washers. And I was bloody careful putting them in.

I didn't have that issue at all mate. I ordered the spring type slot-nuts from Kinetic as recommended on the shopping list and I could push them in to the profile channel just fine. No need to slot in from the open channel at the bottom. (And thank cripes for that!!)

Was I just lucky?

 

[HugoB]

I didn't have that issue at all mate. I ordered the spring type slot-nuts from Kinetic as recommended on the shopping list and I could push them in to the profile channel just fine. No need to slot in from the open channel at the bottom. (And thank cripes for that!!)

Was I just lucky?

Nope, mine (from Kinetik) also just go in from the side

 

[anton_Chez]

I knew what I was using because a) Simon told me they would not be ideal but would still work, hence b) I am a tightass and didn't bother ordering any more as I have a whole bag of 8mm from SimLab left over. I knew mine were spring type so no need to put them in prior.

But there are different types of slot nuts and Barry from SRG always said that he loved the ones that spring in without the need to remove other bits to get them in and out. It's a great idea but a pain in the ass to actually use them. They're so awkward to remove especially in tight spaces!