Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software
- Thread starter Mr Latte
- Start date
Sure, the issue is a power supply beefy enough.
You’ll need at least 12V @ 16A to fully utilise the 200W
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The first small piece of the puzzle has arrived, courtesy of Ali Express 
Would you guys see any downsides to me choosing the Asus Xonar AE soundcard to pair with the Douk?
Would you guys see any downsides to me choosing the Asus Xonar AE soundcard to pair with the Douk?
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The first small piece of the puzzle has arrived, courtesy of Ali Express
Would you guys see any downsides to me choosing the Asus Xonar AE soundcard to pair with the Douk?
Snap! Got mine yesterday.
I’m looking at getting the cheapest 7.1 sound card I can find.
Mr Latte
Premium
Mr Latte
Premium
@EsxPaul
I think this is a good buy and 7.1 PCIe for less money
Here
I have an Asus DGX(5.1) and it works really well.
If you have exciters attached direct to the seat as recommended. This being optimal, for power and high Hz detailing. Then really users, should not need the amps at that high of volume and thats with even the soundcard at only 50% or so. This way everything is running in a more controlled manner and well within its limits.
Installing units in ways that the energy has to travel more will reduce the felt strength and detail and generally what then happens in these scenarios is that people crank the volume and run the units and amp hard.
I think this is a good buy and 7.1 PCIe for less money
Here
I have an Asus DGX(5.1) and it works really well.
If you have exciters attached direct to the seat as recommended. This being optimal, for power and high Hz detailing. Then really users, should not need the amps at that high of volume and thats with even the soundcard at only 50% or so. This way everything is running in a more controlled manner and well within its limits.
Installing units in ways that the energy has to travel more will reduce the felt strength and detail and generally what then happens in these scenarios is that people crank the volume and run the units and amp hard.
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Mr Latte
Premium
After much previous talk. It's now approaching the time I will be starting a thread for my own rig build process.
So, my time/attention will be placed more on that and now less on this thread and with PM queries.
I do however find it remarkable to see that this thread has pulled in over 200K views and I remember not so long ago tactile discussion here was limited to very basic units and rather simple installations.
Okay, so my own build thread....
The idea is that it will, over whatever time it takes, cover the progress and ideas in what makes it quite different/unique or in some ways crazy. After much consideration, I have opted to cancel plans to add SFX motion and place the focus once again back to the original idea, in that the build is focused on taking tactile and also audio to an immersion level that goes beyond the norm.
Followers of this thread will know some parts of the build have been previously teased but these have just been the upper section the isolation uses and part of the method to control the tactiles distribution over the rig.
Even some of what has been shown will be evolved and changed to a newer improved solution.
Early builds like this teased will be modified but much more is to come.
.
This is just the components for the bottom layer. Over 40 meters of steel tubing and many, many dozens of steel clamps will be needed for the full build.
Parts have been accumulating but for the chassis and frame of the rig build I am now seeking to run with. The main cockpit design with the specialized isolation materials will be built in sections/tiers. It seems likely this approach and build will cost 3-4x more than the popular 8020 type rigs most people are buying these days.
My stance on this is, I am building a rig primarily for maximizing tactile/audio immersion and not just adding tactile onto a rig. Will it be worth it or meet expectations?
I hope some will find my sharing the journey interesting and over the next couple of weeks, I should start this thread.
So, my time/attention will be placed more on that and now less on this thread and with PM queries.
I do however find it remarkable to see that this thread has pulled in over 200K views and I remember not so long ago tactile discussion here was limited to very basic units and rather simple installations.
Okay, so my own build thread....
The idea is that it will, over whatever time it takes, cover the progress and ideas in what makes it quite different/unique or in some ways crazy. After much consideration, I have opted to cancel plans to add SFX motion and place the focus once again back to the original idea, in that the build is focused on taking tactile and also audio to an immersion level that goes beyond the norm.
Followers of this thread will know some parts of the build have been previously teased but these have just been the upper section the isolation uses and part of the method to control the tactiles distribution over the rig.
Even some of what has been shown will be evolved and changed to a newer improved solution.
Early builds like this teased will be modified but much more is to come.
.
This is just the components for the bottom layer. Over 40 meters of steel tubing and many, many dozens of steel clamps will be needed for the full build.
Parts have been accumulating but for the chassis and frame of the rig build I am now seeking to run with. The main cockpit design with the specialized isolation materials will be built in sections/tiers. It seems likely this approach and build will cost 3-4x more than the popular 8020 type rigs most people are buying these days.
My stance on this is, I am building a rig primarily for maximizing tactile/audio immersion and not just adding tactile onto a rig. Will it be worth it or meet expectations?
I hope some will find my sharing the journey interesting and over the next couple of weeks, I should start this thread.
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It's nice to see more people using parts from the recommended list. I'm sure that'll be a big help when trying to come up with some baseline settings templates to work from.
Thanks for the soundcard recommendation @Mr Latte
I've had 2 different choices on my list for a while now and the reason for choosing them is purely aesthetic rather than technical. It's very shallow reasoning I know, but I would like to have something with a backplate that's either black, white or both
Whatever I end up choosing, I may end up being a little compromised by the layout of my Pcie slots which will place any soundcard quite close to the GPU fans. Hopefully it won't starve it of airflow but I'll just have to suck it and see. If the worst happens I'll switch to an external variant.
Thanks for the soundcard recommendation @Mr Latte
I've had 2 different choices on my list for a while now and the reason for choosing them is purely aesthetic rather than technical. It's very shallow reasoning I know, but I would like to have something with a backplate that's either black, white or both
Whatever I end up choosing, I may end up being a little compromised by the layout of my Pcie slots which will place any soundcard quite close to the GPU fans. Hopefully it won't starve it of airflow but I'll just have to suck it and see. If the worst happens I'll switch to an external variant.
Thinking of getting BG2 one for F1 2019. My I am completely new to this!! But the game rig being made for me has a BG2 mount under the seat, so that is a start.
My PC motherboard, ASUS ROG Strix 570-I has the following audio:
3 jacks on the rear panel for 5.1 audio, which I am planning to connect to a 5.1 sound system with woofer. Understand the BG2 could be connected to Centre/Woofer output.
Headphone and microphone jacks on the front panel.
HDMI and Displayport outputs.
And specs:
Supreme FX S122oA 8 Channel High Definition Audio CODEC
32bit/192khz playback
Impedance sense for front and rear headphone outputs
Dual Op amplifiers
Jack detection, multi streaming and Front Panelk jack retasking.
Audio features:
Sonic Studio III + Sonic Studio Virtual Mixer
Sonic Radar III
DTS Sound Unbound.
The motherboard doesn't have a spare slot for a sound card.
So will give me all the right rumble strips etc??
Any thoughts and ideas?
My PC motherboard, ASUS ROG Strix 570-I has the following audio:
3 jacks on the rear panel for 5.1 audio, which I am planning to connect to a 5.1 sound system with woofer. Understand the BG2 could be connected to Centre/Woofer output.
Headphone and microphone jacks on the front panel.
HDMI and Displayport outputs.
And specs:
Supreme FX S122oA 8 Channel High Definition Audio CODEC
32bit/192khz playback
Impedance sense for front and rear headphone outputs
Dual Op amplifiers
Jack detection, multi streaming and Front Panelk jack retasking.
Audio features:
Sonic Studio III + Sonic Studio Virtual Mixer
Sonic Radar III
DTS Sound Unbound.
The motherboard doesn't have a spare slot for a sound card.
So will give me all the right rumble strips etc??
Any thoughts and ideas?
It's nice to see more people using parts from the recommended list. I'm sure that'll be a big help when trying to come up with some baseline settings templates to work from.
Thanks for the soundcard recommendation @Mr Latte
I've had 2 different choices on my list for a while now and the reason for choosing them is purely aesthetic rather than technical. It's very shallow reasoning I know, but I would like to have something with a backplate that's either black, white or both
Whatever I end up choosing, I may end up being a little compromised by the layout of my Pcie slots which will place any soundcard quite close to the GPU fans. Hopefully it won't starve it of airflow but I'll just have to suck it and see. If the worst happens I'll switch to an external variant.
Just checked, and it's only stereo.
James
Thanks James. That's an interesting thought. I did see that option on the Douk but paid no attention to it, thinking that would be for a mobile phone type of thing.
I'm not technically minded enough to know how you would go about making your PC soundard output it's data via Bluetooth or if that's even possible.
It’s very easy - but sadly after checking I realised that it’s only stereo via Bluetooth and not 4 channels. It’s a shame the amp doesn’t have a usb connection and 4 channels - it would be totally perfect.
On a positive for myself - I’ve just realised that my motherboard has 7.1.
@jamescarruthers Shame about the BT options with the Douk. I was dreaming of a cable free installation there for a second
I was just having another browse of the Thomann site and it's got me wanting to get opinions on the best type of 8 pin Speakon socket for an exiter installation.
There are a few different options and they seem to be differentiated by the terminals in the rear of the socket. My initial thought was to go for very small terminals and directly solder onto them but I'm now thinking the larger type with some spade connectors would make life easier in the future.
I'd be interested to hear people's experiences with the type they used and why:
I was just having another browse of the Thomann site and it's got me wanting to get opinions on the best type of 8 pin Speakon socket for an exiter installation.
There are a few different options and they seem to be differentiated by the terminals in the rear of the socket. My initial thought was to go for very small terminals and directly solder onto them but I'm now thinking the larger type with some spade connectors would make life easier in the future.
I'd be interested to hear people's experiences with the type they used and why:
what size kickers would suit me best..I want front and rear. Would a 100w kicker be too much and would a 25w kicker be too small i will be running a 200w car amp to power them... I have no idea about the science` of this, just dont want to waste money going to big or to small.
At present I run a butt kicker gamer 2 and never on more than 1/2 volume if that
At present I run a butt kicker gamer 2 and never on more than 1/2 volume if that
Bit techy. I am mounting a BKG2 on the underside of the seat frame. And see that rubber isolation mounts are sold. So, I was thinking of calculating what weight 4 mounts would each take for me and seat - say 20kg each. Also aiming for mount that is not too high - 40W x 15mmH 45 Shore would seem to do the job The same I did for a 1 ton marine engine in a barge, but smaller!!
Anyway what hardness rubber - 45/60 or 75 shore?? My instinct tells me softer would isolate more?? More rigid and more transmission?
Anyway what hardness rubber - 45/60 or 75 shore?? My instinct tells me softer would isolate more?? More rigid and more transmission?
Mr Latte
Premium
Paul
At one point I bought these to use with the idea of installing multiple plates to a board positioning them for L/C/R tactile, Then placing this board to sit in the bottom/floor region of a build. This way cables from the tactile units to these plates can be hidden neatly underneath.
Then all you need to do is connect the SpeakON cable from the amp for each socket.
Keep in mind as these are (4Pole) then you get 2 channels per connection and 4 channels per plate.
See Here
I have 3 left (new) if you want some cheap.
You could then have an 8 Pole based speaker cable from the amps cover obviously 4 channels in a single cable. It's not fully necessary to then use an 8 Pole connector as you are splitting them anyways for the different channel groups. There are different ways to do this.
Example:
Amps Single Connections - 8 Pole Cable (4 Channels / 2 Cores Per Channel)
8 Pole Cable Length To Cockpit
Split Cabling Into 2x Dual 4 Pole SpeakON Wallplate
Each Wallplate With Twin SpeakON Socket = Total 4x Channels (Your Douk M4 Amp)
So 4x Exciters/Transducers Connected To Underside Of Each Wallplate
You can get 8 Pole based SpeakON connections but these are quite expensive. From around £10-£20+ each.
I have compared both the standard and the pro-Neutrik "Tour" range which are in fairness much more robust as metal casing instead of plastic.
Look on Thomann.de for good images to different types if it helps
Male/Female 8 Core SpeakON and Metal Vs PLastic
At one point I bought these to use with the idea of installing multiple plates to a board positioning them for L/C/R tactile, Then placing this board to sit in the bottom/floor region of a build. This way cables from the tactile units to these plates can be hidden neatly underneath.
Then all you need to do is connect the SpeakON cable from the amp for each socket.
Keep in mind as these are (4Pole) then you get 2 channels per connection and 4 channels per plate.
See Here
I have 3 left (new) if you want some cheap.
You could then have an 8 Pole based speaker cable from the amps cover obviously 4 channels in a single cable. It's not fully necessary to then use an 8 Pole connector as you are splitting them anyways for the different channel groups. There are different ways to do this.
Example:
Amps Single Connections - 8 Pole Cable (4 Channels / 2 Cores Per Channel)
8 Pole Cable Length To Cockpit
Split Cabling Into 2x Dual 4 Pole SpeakON Wallplate
Each Wallplate With Twin SpeakON Socket = Total 4x Channels (Your Douk M4 Amp)
So 4x Exciters/Transducers Connected To Underside Of Each Wallplate
You can get 8 Pole based SpeakON connections but these are quite expensive. From around £10-£20+ each.
I have compared both the standard and the pro-Neutrik "Tour" range which are in fairness much more robust as metal casing instead of plastic.
Look on Thomann.de for good images to different types if it helps
Male/Female 8 Core SpeakON and Metal Vs PLastic
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Thanks for the offer and further detail on connector types @Mr Latte , much appreciated as always
Those mounting plates look very professional but I can't really accommodate them into my rig that easily. I've just downloaded some of the specification drawings from the Neutrik site and found I'm going to be slightly limited with what I can choose due to the way my rig is laid out.
After much measuring, I've decided I'm going to use a NLT8MP socket and mount that flush into the bucket seat side bracket. I'll connect into that with a NL8FC connector and some 8 core cable to go back to the Douk.
I had wanted to use the tour grade, all metal connector but at 120mm+ in length, it'll hit my shifter mount if I were to move my seat back or fourth. I'm glad you showed those connectors as it got me to measuring things up more accurately. If I hadn't checked, I would have ordered some great looking connectors that I'd end up unable to use!
Those mounting plates look very professional but I can't really accommodate them into my rig that easily. I've just downloaded some of the specification drawings from the Neutrik site and found I'm going to be slightly limited with what I can choose due to the way my rig is laid out.
After much measuring, I've decided I'm going to use a NLT8MP socket and mount that flush into the bucket seat side bracket. I'll connect into that with a NL8FC connector and some 8 core cable to go back to the Douk.
I had wanted to use the tour grade, all metal connector but at 120mm+ in length, it'll hit my shifter mount if I were to move my seat back or fourth. I'm glad you showed those connectors as it got me to measuring things up more accurately. If I hadn't checked, I would have ordered some great looking connectors that I'd end up unable to use!
Mr Latte
Premium
Thanks for the offer and further detail on connector types @Mr Latte , much appreciated as always
Those mounting plates look very professional but I can't really accommodate them into my rig that easily. I've just downloaded some of the specification drawings from the Neutrik site and found I'm going to be slightly limited with what I can choose due to the way my rig is laid out.
After much measuring, I've decided I'm going to use a NLT8MP socket and mount that flush into the bucket seat side bracket. I'll connect into that with a NL8FC connector and some 8 core cable to go back to the Douk.
I had wanted to use the tour grade, all metal connector but at 120mm+ in length, it'll hit my shifter mount if I were to move my seat back or fourth. I'm glad you showed those connectors as it got me to measuring things up more accurately. If I hadn't checked, I would have ordered some great looking connectors that I'd end up unable to use!
Its good to measure.
My preference would be to put all the cabling under a floor section rather than on/at the seat. Having the 8 pole connection on the seat will work but personally, well I want to be able to connect/disconnect each exciter/transducer in an easy way.
This then makes it simple if one gets damaged or if I want to swap what units an amp is powering for future or other location testing.
I got some of These
Might be handy if you don't already have some sorted
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I’d look at some kind of multi-way automotive connector.
www.polevolt.co.uk
www.polevolt.co.uk
Sealed Connectors: Polevolt Ltd
Sealed automotive connectors including, Junior Timer, Junior Power Timer, Econoseal, Superseal, Sureseal, Packard and Deutsch connectors.
Mini Lock Connectors: Polevolt Ltd
Automotive mini lock connectors finding applications in cars and motorcycles.
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