I just got a t300rs.Can anyone share some settings that you find works good for rf2.I have not much time to test before a race Saturday so would be very much appreciated.
t300rs settings for rf2
- Thread starter Matt Horst
- Start date
Seems i got a faulty TH8A shifter.
It only works in H-pattern.When i put the sequential plate on it does not recognize it,and yes i have the little tab in the right position.Very annoying.I have had quality problems in the past with Thrustmaster and was hoping for a better experience this time around.Hope the T300RS stays solid.
It only works in H-pattern.When i put the sequential plate on it does not recognize it,and yes i have the little tab in the right position.Very annoying.I have had quality problems in the past with Thrustmaster and was hoping for a better experience this time around.Hope the T300RS stays solid.
You would think if rF2 gave a "floppy feeling" when cornering it wouldn't receive so much praise from most of the sim racing crowd, it's not something anyone would overlook in their assessment of rF2's FFB and physics. So I guess you either believe the masses or look at your setup.
I don't get even a slight "floppy feeling" with my TX in rF2, feels tight and controllable. Again, don't take my word for it, there's a ton of reviews and post on rF2 FFB, and well deserved praise.
I also race SCE, AC, and others. SCE and AC also feel very good , AC a little less lively at times for me though.
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Msportdan
@Simberia
feels great in pretty much every other sim..
i didnt think rf2 ffb would need car setup cheats to feel proper.
Imo it doesnt feel right, compared to other titles. It feels that past a certain slip angle theres not enough self aligning torque available
p.s only a few think rf2 is globally perfect.
i didnt think rf2 ffb would need car setup cheats to feel proper.
Imo it doesnt feel right, compared to other titles. It feels that past a certain slip angle theres not enough self aligning torque available
p.s only a few think rf2 is globally perfect.
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@Msportdan , Have a look at this Alex posted for me to setup my DFGT
I don't know anything about that specific wheel but I would recommend you run an app called WheelCheck (search for 'wheelcheck.exe' in google and there is a link to the rf2 ISI forums calledGuide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" which has 2 links to the app)... Not sure if I'm allowed to link to external forums but anyway, with your wheel plugged in, run wheelcheck, and in the second dropdown labelled Spring Force, select Min Force and don't touch the wheel.. a couple of seconds later you will see a %number at the bottom of the window. Remember the number. That's it, you can close wheelcheck. I personally run it 2 or 3 times then take the lowest number you got, and set your Min Torque in rF2 to that number. Do not set it higher than the lowest number you get. Then in rF2 you should be all set to go. It's then a case of adjusting that Smoothing one down to as low as you personally like. The lower it is the more detailed, but more violent, it will feel. And the higher, obviously the opposite. The thread mentioned is worth a read but to save the read, you will get to somewhere near decent just doing the wheelcheck thing and lowering the smoothing until you are happy with the detail/violence of the ffb. At least, that's what works for me
I don't know anything about that specific wheel but I would recommend you run an app called WheelCheck (search for 'wheelcheck.exe' in google and there is a link to the rf2 ISI forums calledGuide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" which has 2 links to the app)... Not sure if I'm allowed to link to external forums but anyway, with your wheel plugged in, run wheelcheck, and in the second dropdown labelled Spring Force, select Min Force and don't touch the wheel.. a couple of seconds later you will see a %number at the bottom of the window. Remember the number. That's it, you can close wheelcheck. I personally run it 2 or 3 times then take the lowest number you got, and set your Min Torque in rF2 to that number. Do not set it higher than the lowest number you get. Then in rF2 you should be all set to go. It's then a case of adjusting that Smoothing one down to as low as you personally like. The lower it is the more detailed, but more violent, it will feel. And the higher, obviously the opposite. The thread mentioned is worth a read but to save the read, you will get to somewhere near decent just doing the wheelcheck thing and lowering the smoothing until you are happy with the detail/violence of the ffb. At least, that's what works for me
No, I never did say rf2 was globally perfect, I was referring to something very specific. If something earns a reputation, from the input of many, at being good at something I would assume a problem I was experiencing was on my end.
Take a car that has a reputation of being one of the best sports cars of all time, an earned reputation. My opinion of driving that car wouldn't mean much to the masses and the deficiencies I think it has would most likely be attributed to something I was doing wrong or my lack of understanding.
It's a forum, we all have opinions/comments. rF2 is far from perfect but "floppy steering" isn't one of its faults.
If you would have asked the question "guys, why do you think I'm having problems with the FFB in rF2" that would be a completely different tone.
Msportdan
@Simberia
theres two things ive realised..
a) caster set to 7.5 gives me a much better feeling on my wheel to the point I'm actually faster an more precise now. Front wheels do not feel so much like their on ice around corners now, and I actually have a more authentic feeling resistance in my wheel.
b) the Palatov for ffb and tyre heat is really badly made. possibly broken.
a) caster set to 7.5 gives me a much better feeling on my wheel to the point I'm actually faster an more precise now. Front wheels do not feel so much like their on ice around corners now, and I actually have a more authentic feeling resistance in my wheel.
b) the Palatov for ffb and tyre heat is really badly made. possibly broken.
Just to quote myself and after loads more RF2/GSC time I am happy that the T300 is better than the G25 overall, not by much mind you but enough to warrant a smile a on face for the purchase.
I can feel low speed corners better which has improved my Apex turning points, the road feels more realistic through the tires as do the curbs and those extra buttons are a godsend!
With the new found feel it has made me faster, this may coincide with some pedal upgrades too so hard to say "by how much" but I'm definitely more fluid through the turns so that's gotta help somewhat.
Overall: Well Happy with the T300RS GTE, highly recommended.
RFactor 2 and the Thrustmaster T300RS and TX, should work great for the T500RS as-well.
Thrustmaster Control Panel:
- Overall strength @ 100%, or at-least 90% (nevermind the linearity stuff everyone talks about [including me for a while], the wheel isn't powerful enough to want linear settings just like a large dynamic range is not wanted with speakers at low volumes).
- Constant and Periodic both @ 100%
- Spring and Damper both @ 0%
RF2 Controller File (controller.ini or saved controller profile):
Steering Torque Sensitivity @ 0.272 or 0.275 (don't forget to click "save" when you close it), If you load a new controller file in-game then you will loose this setting unless you also adjust this setting in the particular saved controller file which are all located in your controller folder. Or just adjust it in the generic controller file (controller.ini) and then make sure to immediately save that profile while in-game.
RF2 In-Game:
- Smoothing @ 0
- Steering Torque Minimum @ 6.5% or 8.5%. I can't remember which one I used, but let's just say between 6% and 9%
- FFB Multi @ as high as you can go without the FFB clipping (or clipping often). So make sure to download the Pedal Overlay Plugin here to monitor for clipping. You can always increase caster in the car's garage setup instead of or along-side raising the FFB multi. Be careful raising caster too high though because, I really noticed in RF2 that the higher it's set to, the more it seems to kill the effect of the FFB dropping off as front tyres start to slip - not to mention I've seen quite a few fast laptimes with extremely low amounts of caster (eg. 2.3 out of a possible 8.0). I don't know if it's just another weird ISI/RF2 physics thing or what.
Regarding Using the Pedal Overlay Plugin to Monitor Clipping:
1) Don't worry if it clips for tiny instances like curbs, bumps, etc.
2) Don't judge the clipping when going at pit-lane speeds or even slow speeds in general. You want to do at-least a full lap around the track for two reasons:
- some slower turns may not produce clipping but some other turns later in the lap may (maybe a much faster, steering-loaded corner
- sometimes you may see tons of clipping while going at extremely slow pit-lane type of speeds but once you get on track you'll see that it doesn't clip (Eg. the karts)
Thrustmaster Control Panel:
- Overall strength @ 100%, or at-least 90% (nevermind the linearity stuff everyone talks about [including me for a while], the wheel isn't powerful enough to want linear settings just like a large dynamic range is not wanted with speakers at low volumes).
- Constant and Periodic both @ 100%
- Spring and Damper both @ 0%
RF2 Controller File (controller.ini or saved controller profile):
Steering Torque Sensitivity @ 0.272 or 0.275 (don't forget to click "save" when you close it), If you load a new controller file in-game then you will loose this setting unless you also adjust this setting in the particular saved controller file which are all located in your controller folder. Or just adjust it in the generic controller file (controller.ini) and then make sure to immediately save that profile while in-game.
RF2 In-Game:
- Smoothing @ 0
- Steering Torque Minimum @ 6.5% or 8.5%. I can't remember which one I used, but let's just say between 6% and 9%
- FFB Multi @ as high as you can go without the FFB clipping (or clipping often). So make sure to download the Pedal Overlay Plugin here to monitor for clipping. You can always increase caster in the car's garage setup instead of or along-side raising the FFB multi. Be careful raising caster too high though because, I really noticed in RF2 that the higher it's set to, the more it seems to kill the effect of the FFB dropping off as front tyres start to slip - not to mention I've seen quite a few fast laptimes with extremely low amounts of caster (eg. 2.3 out of a possible 8.0). I don't know if it's just another weird ISI/RF2 physics thing or what.
Regarding Using the Pedal Overlay Plugin to Monitor Clipping:
1) Don't worry if it clips for tiny instances like curbs, bumps, etc.
2) Don't judge the clipping when going at pit-lane speeds or even slow speeds in general. You want to do at-least a full lap around the track for two reasons:
- some slower turns may not produce clipping but some other turns later in the lap may (maybe a much faster, steering-loaded corner
- sometimes you may see tons of clipping while going at extremely slow pit-lane type of speeds but once you get on track you'll see that it doesn't clip (Eg. the karts)
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As it has been mentioned above "caster" is one of the most important factors if you not feeling resistance mid-corner. For example FR3.5 has relatively low SAT even with caster maxed out.
Regarding @Spinelli post above I wouldn't suggest to use Steering Torque Sensitivity as low as 0.275 as suggested. This value should make middle forces dip very low i.e. even T300 which has boosted middle forces (wheelcheck linearity check) would have non-linearly reduced forces too much at middle range. Unless that was the intention (to boost high end forces, by reducing other ranges)?
To have more linear response with T300@75% I would suggest to try ~0.8 STS. Although there are no tool/adjustment in rF2 to adjust wheel for more linearity precisely.
Regarding @Spinelli post above I wouldn't suggest to use Steering Torque Sensitivity as low as 0.275 as suggested. This value should make middle forces dip very low i.e. even T300 which has boosted middle forces (wheelcheck linearity check) would have non-linearly reduced forces too much at middle range. Unless that was the intention (to boost high end forces, by reducing other ranges)?
To have more linear response with T300@75% I would suggest to try ~0.8 STS. Although there are no tool/adjustment in rF2 to adjust wheel for more linearity precisely.
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Msportdan
@Simberia
Thrustmaster Control Panel:
- Overall strength @ 100%, or at-least 90% (nevermind the linearity stuff everyone talks about [including me for a while], the wheel isn't powerful enough to want linear settings just like a large dynamic range is not wanted with speakers at low volumes).
- Constant and Periodic both @ 100%
- Spring and Damper both @ 0%
I agree with the above, you wont notice the 75% thing anyway. unless your intentionally looking for it,.
- Overall strength @ 100%, or at-least 90% (nevermind the linearity stuff everyone talks about [including me for a while], the wheel isn't powerful enough to want linear settings just like a large dynamic range is not wanted with speakers at low volumes).
- Constant and Periodic both @ 100%
- Spring and Damper both @ 0%
I agree with the above, you wont notice the 75% thing anyway. unless your intentionally looking for it,.
I do notice 60% vs 75% vs 100% differences in linearity easily. Higher values compresses high-end forces to a smaller dynamic range, meaning that midcorner (when you already have relatively high FFB force applied to the wheel) adding more forces will give you less change.
With 100% in TM control panel, when the sim provides anything above 70% power input all forces felt by the user will be nearly identical be it 70,80,90% power input. Pretty much all of the available dynamic range of force will be used in the range of ~0-60% input of force.
See graphs in the below file(notice the green line which is 100% in TM panel):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tDSWyVaEpVD4iIL9weY7uXkMGCxCUi1_3FY29p2NiZs/edit?usp=sharing
Also as you can see using 100% in TM has lowest increase in maximum wheel output compared to other values, which means there isn't much point using it considering highly decreased linearity. 75% is a sweetspot between maximum output and linearity.
If you want to have consistent force changes according to available grip you should seek for linear force output.
With 100% in TM control panel, when the sim provides anything above 70% power input all forces felt by the user will be nearly identical be it 70,80,90% power input. Pretty much all of the available dynamic range of force will be used in the range of ~0-60% input of force.
See graphs in the below file(notice the green line which is 100% in TM panel):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tDSWyVaEpVD4iIL9weY7uXkMGCxCUi1_3FY29p2NiZs/edit?usp=sharing
Also as you can see using 100% in TM has lowest increase in maximum wheel output compared to other values, which means there isn't much point using it considering highly decreased linearity. 75% is a sweetspot between maximum output and linearity.
If you want to have consistent force changes according to available grip you should seek for linear force output.
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That's only correct in theory just like a large dynamic range of audio is only superior in theory if your speakers are being played at loud volumes. At low volumes, you need compression or you won't hear, or hardly be able to hear the first (eg.) 70% of audio. It's no different with these weak wheels we have. The forces of a T300/TX at linear settings mean that the first 50-ish % of forces are extremely weak and somwtimes hardly noticeable. A setting of 90-100% combined with an STS of 0.272-0.275 blows away 60-75% and 1.000 STS. You can actually feel forces and have a wheel "working".
For lots of info about the STS being much better at 0.275, check a bunch of posts by Paul Loatman in the official RF2 forums. The particular thread is called something like "FFB getting into the zone".
From my understanding, the forces seem to ramp up too much, too quickly with STS @ 1.00. You turn the wheel a little and the wheel too suddenly, too early has a massive rise of FFB resistance. It's really weird and not like any other sim or real-life racecar, or roadcar, i've ever driven. Then again, FFB in RF2 is massivlely pure physics based and RF2 certainly doesn't have perfect physics (no sim does).
For lots of info about the STS being much better at 0.275, check a bunch of posts by Paul Loatman in the official RF2 forums. The particular thread is called something like "FFB getting into the zone".
From my understanding, the forces seem to ramp up too much, too quickly with STS @ 1.00. You turn the wheel a little and the wheel too suddenly, too early has a massive rise of FFB resistance. It's really weird and not like any other sim or real-life racecar, or roadcar, i've ever driven. Then again, FFB in RF2 is massivlely pure physics based and RF2 certainly doesn't have perfect physics (no sim does).
Spinelli,
I think you are contradicting yourself. You mention that compression is required for weak wheels to feel lower forces, but you suggest to use STS@0.275 which is opposite of compression,it reduces middle forces (opposite of compression) which makes highest end of forces more noticeable. For consistent driving by "feel" it's important that the changes in final force are always the same for example 40-50% should provide the same "feel" as change in 70-80%, however with non linear wheel this won't be true.
It also depends on your usage and ingame FFB force, if your sim usually outputs force in the range of 70-100% when driving midcorner with inbuilt compression you won't feel gradual changes of the available grip, however in the range of 0-50% your all forces will be boosted too much and easily noticeable (to the level of wasted dynamic range e.g. T300@100% in TM control).
One has to decide which range should be more noticeable, I prefer linear final output for consistency across the range.
With my ingame settings rF2 normally outputs 60-90% of force when cornering, that means for me it's important to to feel details in this range, "inbuilt" compression of T300 makes this range almost flat in terms of force changes. In this case using T300@100% would be a failure as it provides ~80% of available dynamic range in the actual input range of 0-50% from the sim, while 50-100% input provides merely ~20% dynamic range for the output available for me to feel.
Regarding rF2 "forces seem to ramp up too much, too quickly" I can't argue. Though I have seen
reports that new steering model that has been introduced in rF2 provides boosted forces, compared to previous model, so it might be true. Personally I find rF2 FFB a bit too much "alive" (i.e. jumpy/bouncy) when driving straight over bumps and that's even with relatively weak T300 wheel, I can't imagine how ridiculous it should feel with 20nm+ wheel, I think lack of damping is the issue here.
Technically lowering STS should allow to make final output more linear on a wheel that has inbuilt compression (boosted lower forces) such as T300/T500. However I am not sure how to find out the most "linear" STS value. STS@0.275 might be too much in the opposite direction which boosts higher end forces instead of making it perfectly linear, however if in fact rF2 is "boosting" forces by default then this approach might make sense.
I think you are contradicting yourself. You mention that compression is required for weak wheels to feel lower forces, but you suggest to use STS@0.275 which is opposite of compression,it reduces middle forces (opposite of compression) which makes highest end of forces more noticeable. For consistent driving by "feel" it's important that the changes in final force are always the same for example 40-50% should provide the same "feel" as change in 70-80%, however with non linear wheel this won't be true.
It also depends on your usage and ingame FFB force, if your sim usually outputs force in the range of 70-100% when driving midcorner with inbuilt compression you won't feel gradual changes of the available grip, however in the range of 0-50% your all forces will be boosted too much and easily noticeable (to the level of wasted dynamic range e.g. T300@100% in TM control).
One has to decide which range should be more noticeable, I prefer linear final output for consistency across the range.
With my ingame settings rF2 normally outputs 60-90% of force when cornering, that means for me it's important to to feel details in this range, "inbuilt" compression of T300 makes this range almost flat in terms of force changes. In this case using T300@100% would be a failure as it provides ~80% of available dynamic range in the actual input range of 0-50% from the sim, while 50-100% input provides merely ~20% dynamic range for the output available for me to feel.
Regarding rF2 "forces seem to ramp up too much, too quickly" I can't argue. Though I have seen
reports that new steering model that has been introduced in rF2 provides boosted forces, compared to previous model, so it might be true. Personally I find rF2 FFB a bit too much "alive" (i.e. jumpy/bouncy) when driving straight over bumps and that's even with relatively weak T300 wheel, I can't imagine how ridiculous it should feel with 20nm+ wheel, I think lack of damping is the issue here.
Technically lowering STS should allow to make final output more linear on a wheel that has inbuilt compression (boosted lower forces) such as T300/T500. However I am not sure how to find out the most "linear" STS value. STS@0.275 might be too much in the opposite direction which boosts higher end forces instead of making it perfectly linear, however if in fact rF2 is "boosting" forces by default then this approach might make sense.
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Just try it and , again, you should read the many posts Paul Loatman has wrote about STS and how RF2 is messed up and linear in-game FFB (STS) as all out of whack.
With regards to the wheel at 100% instead of it's most linear (60%), again, the total power is too low in my opinion (and based on years of simracing) to want linear output because things in the lower range are just way too weak. Enough of the details just aren't felt. To me, feeling grip loss and tyre scrub in an obvious way is important, wether it's not perfectly in linear-proportion with other feelings isn't too important - as long as it's clearly felt is what's important.
I think you're paying too much attention to "on paper" stuff and what's "technically correct" rather than just trying it.
I'd also like to add that raising the control panel FFB helps to make up for the lower STS. Trust me, don't worry about lost forces with the lower STS. Just try it. The STS @ 1.000 (perfectly linear) is just wrong in my opinion (must FFB and/or physics issue). Again, read that FFB thread, there is tons of info regarding the STS including guys using T300RS wheels, T500RS, Accuforce and I believe even high-end servo wheels.
In the end, "to each his own" so go with whatever you like best of course but I really think you'd be interested in that thread especially regarding STS
With regards to the wheel at 100% instead of it's most linear (60%), again, the total power is too low in my opinion (and based on years of simracing) to want linear output because things in the lower range are just way too weak. Enough of the details just aren't felt. To me, feeling grip loss and tyre scrub in an obvious way is important, wether it's not perfectly in linear-proportion with other feelings isn't too important - as long as it's clearly felt is what's important.
I think you're paying too much attention to "on paper" stuff and what's "technically correct" rather than just trying it.
I'd also like to add that raising the control panel FFB helps to make up for the lower STS. Trust me, don't worry about lost forces with the lower STS. Just try it. The STS @ 1.000 (perfectly linear) is just wrong in my opinion (must FFB and/or physics issue). Again, read that FFB thread, there is tons of info regarding the STS including guys using T300RS wheels, T500RS, Accuforce and I believe even high-end servo wheels.
In the end, "to each his own" so go with whatever you like best of course
but I really think you'd be interested in that thread especially regarding STS Hmm, I can understand a decision to not spend the money on a new wheel but I've seen nothing in this thread that would sway the decision. There is one poster that is claiming strange FFB problems (this thread) but that is an anomaly in my opinion. The rest of the discussion is theory and personal tweaks in the pursuit of FFB narvana, again my opinion.
To me, the last complaint I would have with rF2 would be FFB. The FFB in rF2 has always felt very good from day one without any twiddling needed. I've tried suggestions from this thread and others because I can, not because I need to. I wish all my sims would feel like my Thustmaster TX does in rF2. Not saying the others feel bad, just not as good based on my preference.
The T300 is a leap above the G25 in all 3 SIms I've tried, as I've stated before the G25 is a very good wheel but if you want better then I reckon the T300 is the perfect upgrade. Ignore the Hot Air being blown about in this thread, usually over thinking things and over-complicating the settings has adverse affects and people lose track of what was good & bad, keep things simple and the enjoyment is quite clearly there.
I also concur with William above, the FFB in RF2 has been the last thing to complain about for a very long time now, it is (again my opinion) the best and the T300 only further proves that when you use it.
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