Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[Droplin]

Your check-curve looks 100% like main. My first value was somewhere around 0.15 -> 15% too.

- Did you run that check with 100% ffb gain in the profiler/driver settings? The check gets influenced by it!
- When you like my LUT, stick with it

- My LUT begins slightly before the wheel actually gets you to feel real input in your hands so you'll have some "slight vibration" going on but no real FFB. If I would set the first value to the limit of the deadzone of the wheel, as the wheelcheck says to, you would feel a big notch when passing the center or when turning in from a straight line. Or even worse, the wheel would start to shake itself on straights.
My LUT tries to simulate a feel as the FFB would start at 0%, while it transforms the real 0% to the logitech's 0%.

I hope that makes sense for you? If not just ask further questions!

For the case that you still have some deadzone-feeling: just raise the in car FFB gain with numpad + or when the wheel is too violent, reduce it with numpad - !

Well that's a piece of good news, I thought my wheel was the black sheep of logitechs there for a moment, good to know though.

A slightly worrying thing I experienced was my wheel rattling an annoying amount during heavy breaking, with the effect amplifying and sending out ffb spikes the closer i got to a halt. The thing that kind of fixed this for me was setting the brake gamma lower than the standart 2.40 to 1.75, didn't get rid of the issue completely though. Is this kind of behaviour normal to our wheels? it sure doesn't sound or feel like it is.

One more question and I'm done, I was thinking of trying out the gamma like lut as well, how would you describe the difference to the recommended I'm currently using?

 

[RasmusP]

Well that's a piece of good news, I thought my wheel was the black sheep of logitechs there for a moment, good to know though.

A slightly worrying thing I experienced was my wheel rattling an annoying amount during heavy breaking, with the effect amplifying and sending out ffb spikes the closer i got to a halt. The thing that kind of fixed this for me was setting the brake gamma lower than the standart 2.40 to 1.75, didn't get rid of the issue completely though. Is this kind of behaviour normal to our wheels? it sure doesn't sound or feel like it is.

One more question and I'm done, I was thinking of trying out the gamma like lut as well, how would you describe the difference to the recommended I'm currently using?

The vibrations are the abs and the slip ffb sliders! It's an unrealistic effect that is needed to know what's going on with the car. In real life the abs will give you vibrations in your foot while locking up or sliding would be felt by movement and g-forces not making sense.
Both not possible with only a ffb wheel which is why Kunos implemented these two sliders for us. Just reduce them and the vibrations will be less (or off)

If you want to try the gamma like Lut you'll have to set the menu ffb gain back to 100%. Don't forget that

The gamma like lut gives you some weight and and a more massive feel but you'll also lose quite some amount of details. I like that for cruising around the Tajo, lake Luise or in general for immersion with older cars that didn't have much power steering!

 

[Jammy Daddy]

I tried the settings and they are amazing to be honest. However, I found the wheel to be much less responsive and I had issues during the SRS races last night.

How do I revert the changes after modifying the config files? Will steam integrity check restore the original files with their settings if I remove the current ones?

Thank You!

 

[RasmusP]

I tried the settings and they are amazing to be honest. However, I found the wheel to be much less responsive and I had issues during the SRS races last night.

How do I revert the changes after modifying the config files? Will steam integrity check restore the original files with their settings if I remove the current ones?

Thank You!

Which one and which wheel do you use exactly? The "recommended" one doesn't change more than a little bit around the dead zone so 90% of the FFB are exactly the same as default.
What do you mean with "unresponsive"?

Anyway, depending on what you changed, to get rid of the lut file you just need to delete the lut and delete the ff_post_process.ini.
It will get restored with default settings at the next start of AC.

 

[Jammy Daddy]

Which one and which wheel do you use exactly? The "recommended" one doesn't change more than a little bit around the dead zone so 90% of the FFB are exactly the same as default.
What do you mean with "unresponsive"?

Anyway, depending on what you changed, to get rid of the lut file you just need to delete the lut and delete the ff_post_process.ini.
It will get restored with default settings at the next start of AC.

So, I did use the recommended. It really brought my G27 FFB to live. The unresponsiveness I mentioned is for ex: when I take a hairpin, the old wheel setup would bring the wheel back to straight when I push the gas. The recommended Lut setup is just slower at bringing the wheel back to straight. I'm sorry for the lack of technical description, but I think its called Spring if am not mistaken.

Again, thank you for this massive effort. I want to come back to the setup in the future. I'm very intrigued and want to try the tight center on the MX-5 Races.

 

[RasmusP]

So, I did use the recommended. It really brought my G27 FFB to live. The unresponsiveness I mentioned is for ex: when I take a hairpin, the old wheel setup would bring the wheel back to straight when I push the gas. The recommended Lut setup is just slower at bringing the wheel back to straight. I'm sorry for the lack of technical description, but I think its called Spring if am not mistaken.

Again, thank you for this massive effort. I want to come back to the setup in the future. I'm very intrigued and want to try the tight center on the MX-5 Races.

If anything, it should be faster with my LUT... very strange!
Maybe you would just need to increase the car specific FFB with numpad + while on track?
"Spring" is a tricky word here. I get what you mean but there's also the spring slider and the center spring artificial effect for non-ffb games.
Both is not part of AC's FFB. It doesn't matter where you put the "spring" slider in the profiler! Just for your info hehe

So I really thing before deleting the files, you should just press numpad + until your wheel starts to shake it self on straights while driving. Then it's too much

 

[Jammy Daddy]

If anything, it should be faster with my LUT... very strange!
Maybe you would just need to increase the car specific FFB with numpad + while on track?
"Spring" is a tricky word here. I get what you mean but there's also the spring slider and the center spring artificial effect for non-ffb games.
Both is not part of AC's FFB. It doesn't matter where you put the "spring" slider in the profiler! Just for your info hehe

So I really thing before deleting the files, you should just press numpad + until your wheel starts to shake it self on straights while driving. Then it's too much

This is a good. Point. I will increase the FFB while in game, and see if brings it back to the sweet spot I experienced before. With your setup, I no longer feel the numbness and the wheel feels alive even in the middle. Thanks for chiming in so fast!!!

 

[Droplin]

After a few weeks of testing all different kinds of lut's and gamma settings, it seems that my wheel doesn't output any feedback below 0.01|0.202 when centered. Awesome as they might be ( the recommended and tight center lut files) they still give me a bit of "center" deadzone, miniscule, but still there.
A couple of questions then, first of all is 0.01 the actual minimum force needed for my wheel to function properly? If so, is 0.202 the equivalent of 20.2% of minimum force in case I decide to test out some gamma configuration?
I was thinking about changing the values of your lut files to accomodate my wheel's specifications, but deleting the values below what's closer to 0.202 (i.e in the tight center lut that would be value 0.05) would bring all the other values higher than they should be. Gods I hope that makes sense.
Unrelated maybe, but your gamma settings are actually quite nice, still I get a deadzone with them -.-. so if I want to get rid of it, do i set minimum force higher than 4%, or do I go for a higher center boost gain setting than 130%.
Thanks in advance for your patience, you're doing an awesome job helping out the community.

 

[RasmusP]

After a few weeks of testing all different kinds of lut's and gamma settings, it seems that my wheel doesn't output any feedback below 0.01|0.202 when centered. Awesome as they might be ( the recommended and tight center lut files) they still give me a bit of "center" deadzone, miniscule, but still there.
A couple of questions then, first of all is 0.01 the actual minimum force needed for my wheel to function properly? If so, is 0.202 the equivalent of 20.2% of minimum force in case I decide to test out some gamma configuration?
I was thinking about changing the values of your lut files to accomodate my wheel's specifications, but deleting the values below what's closer to 0.202 (i.e in the tight center lut that would be value 0.05) would bring all the other values higher than they should be. Gods I hope that makes sense.
Unrelated maybe, but your gamma settings are actually quite nice, still I get a deadzone with them -.-. so if I want to get rid of it, do i set minimum force higher than 4%, or do I go for a higher center boost gain setting than 130%.
Thanks in advance for your patience, you're doing an awesome job helping out the community.

Hey
Only on the phone at the moment so I won't write an in depth reply right now but maybe I can quickly push you in the right direction!
First, since you already understood what a LUT does I would recommend to only use that and not bother with min force, center boost gain and gamma! These are settings that aren't really explained so there's only what I guess about them through testing.
The lut however gives you an actual curve in excel so you really see what you're doing!

So about the LUTs:
The lines of a lut are built like that:
0.00 | 0.xxx
0.01 | 0.xxx
The left row is the output of assetto corsa, not scaled! It always has a range of 100 lines. The ffb slider (menu and in car) only scales it as a whole but your lut file always works with 100 lines.
So 0.01 on the left means 1% of assetto corsa's ffb. The right side now says how much ffb you actually want to output to the wheel driver.
0.202 indeed means 20.2%.
So 0.01 | 0.202 means at 1% of AC output, 20.2% will be sent to the wheel driver.

That's why it's very important to have the logitech driver at 100%. To not interfere at all with the output of AC!

Now what you need is to maintain a little "noise" even at 0% because otherwise the wheel becomes completely dead when no force is applied but in a real car you'll still have some friction. That's why I set some value for 0.00. But beware, if you set the value too high or raise the driver setting above 100%, this "noise" will start to shake your wheel without any actual sense. It was try and error for me to find a nice value for it that feels "real".

Anyway, if you want less deadzone just raise the first 3-5 lines but never go higher than the line after.
Example:
0.01 | 0.200
0.02 | 0.180
Is a big no no!

And never only increase a single line. You have to maintain a smooth curve down to 0.00 (left side)!

I would suggest you have a play with it, profiler/driver at 100%, not using gamma, center boost to 0 and minimum force too and then modify the lowest numbers and see what it does.
If you find one of the LUTs being the closest to what you like please tell me which one and your actual wheel (dfgt, g27, g29, g920) and tell me what you'd like differently and I'll look into it and try to come up with something for you

Hope that helps! Have a great Sunday!

 

[Droplin]

Hey
Only on the phone at the moment so I won't write an in depth reply right now but maybe I can quickly push you in the right direction!
First, since you already understood what lut does I would recommend to only use that and not bother with min force, center boost gain and gamma! These are settings that aren't really explained so there's only what I guess about them through testing.
The lut however gives you an actual curve in excel so you really see what you're doing!

So about the LUTs:
The lines of a lut are built like that:
0.00 | 0.xxx
0.01 | 0.xxx
The left row is the output of assetto corsa, not scaled! It always has a range of 100 lines. The ffb slider (menu and in car) only scales it as a whole but your lut file always works with 100 lines.
So 0.01 on the left means 1% of assetto corsa's ffb. The right side now says how much ffb you actually want to output to the wheel driver.
0.202 indeed means 20.2%.
So 0.01 | 0.202 means at 1% of AC output, 20.2% will be sent to the wheel driver.

That's why it's very important to have the logitech driver at 100%. To not interfere at all with the output of AC!

Now what you need is to maintain a little "noise" even at 0% because otherwise the wheel becomes completely dead when no force is applied but in a real car you'll still have some friction. That's why I set some value for 0.00. But beware, if you set the value too high or raise the driver setting above 100%, this "noise" will start to shake your wheel without any actual sense. It was try and error for me to find a nice value for it that feels "real".

Anyway, if you want less deadzone just raise the first 3-5 lines but never go higher than the line after.
Example:
0.01 | 0.200
0.02 | 0.180
Is a big no no!

And never only increase a single line. You have to maintain a smooth curve down to 0.00 (left side)!

I would suggest you have a play with it, profiler/driver at 100%, not using gamma, center boost to 0 and minimum force too and then modify the lowest numbers and see what it does.
If you find one of the LUTs being the closest to what you like please tell me which one and your actual wheel (dfgt, g27, g29, g920) and tell me what you'd like differently and I'll look into it and try to come up with something for you

Hope that helps! Have a great Sunday!

Thanks so much for the timely reply!
You got me covered on all of my questions, main one being "should i edit values on the left vs the values on the right columns of the excel. I'll experiment later today and let you know about the results.
In the meanwhile, I mostly use the tight center lut file in unison with the ffb clip app, you mention the chance of vibration when using it, only thing I get is a weird noise from my wheel like it's trying to output the mentioned vibration, but is failing miserably. My guess is that's the 0.00 value of the lut file, currently set to 0.120 as standart, not sure if raising it to the point of permanent vibration is an option.
In any case, I do mostly race RWD's and I spend a lot of time "slightly sideways", that's where the gamma settings excel imo, I can maintain my powerslides much better with the amplified self alligning forces near the center, also I find it much easier to catch a spin that way. That's the main reason I moved away from my own custom generated lut cause once I started sliding the wheel decided to inform me when it was too late and I ended up looking in the opposite direction too often.
Being a g29 owner I don't have access to the old profiler so I believe 100% force is all we're left with.

Once again I cannot thank you enough for your time and effort. Have a great rest of your day!

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks so much for the timely reply!
You got me covered on all of my questions, main one being "should i edit values on the left vs the values on the right columns of the excel. I'll experiment later today and let you know about the results.
In the meanwhile, I mostly use the tight center lut file in unison with the ffb clip app, you mention the chance of vibration when using it, only thing I get is a weird noise from my wheel like it's trying to output the mentioned vibration, but is failing miserably. My guess is that's the 0.00 value of the lut file, currently set to 0.120 as standart, not sure if raising it to the point of permanent vibration is an option.
In any case, I do mostly race RWD's and I spend a lot of time "slightly sideways", that's where the gamma settings excel imo, I can maintain my powerslides much better with the amplified self alligning forces near the center, also I find it much easier to catch a spin that way. That's the main reason I moved away from my own custom generated lut cause once I started sliding the wheel decided to inform me when it was too late and I ended up looking in the opposite direction too often.
Being a g29 owner I don't have access to the old profiler so I believe 100% force is all we're left with.

Once again I cannot thank you enough for your time and effort. Have a great rest of your day!

The noise you hear is indeed the 0.00 value! Without it you'll feel a little "notch" when doing a smooth left/right like through a wide chicane.
Only change the values on the right side! (As you know now)

Feel free to raise them to whatever you like, you can't break anything

Since you like the gamma settings, maybe try the gamma-like-LUT? Gamma bends the FFB to non-linear, the lower the gamma value, the stronger the "bend" becomes. My gamma-like-LUT looks like this in excel:

Whereas the tight-center-LUT looks like this:

As you can see they both cross the 0,2-line at the same point so the general "deadzone removal" is the same. BUT the tight center has higher values at the very beginning, giving you a really tight feeling, the gamma-like at the other hand has the "bend" of the usual gamma setting.

For drifting I would suggest to use the gamma-like-LUT and increase the lowest settings to the same, or even slightly higher than the tight center ones!

G29: yeah, just set it to 100% and that's it. Nothing else to change

And btw: don't use the ffb clip app, just don't! My LUTs at 100% won't clip too much, I promise
Just set the in-car-gain with Numpad + and - to something that feels good for your personal hands and that's it!

 

[Droplin]

The noise you hear is indeed the 0.00 value! Without it you'll feel a little "notch" when doing a smooth left/right like through a wide chicane.
Only change the values on the right side! (As you know now)

Feel free to raise them to whatever you like, you can't break anything

Since you like the gamma settings, maybe try the gamma-like-LUT? Gamma bends the FFB to non-linear, the lower the gamma value, the stronger the "bend" becomes. My gamma-like-LUT looks like this in excel:
View attachment 242824

Whereas the tight-center-LUT looks like this:
View attachment 242825

As you can see they both cross the 0,2-line at the same point so the general "deadzone removal" is the same. BUT the tight center has higher values at the very beginning, giving you a really tight feeling, the gamma-like at the other hand has the "bend" of the usual gamma setting.

For drifting I would suggest to use the gamma-like-LUT and increase the lowest settings to the same, or even slightly higher than the tight center ones!

G29: yeah, just set it to 100% and that's it. Nothing else to change

And btw: don't use the ffb clip app, just don't! My LUTs at 100% won't clip too much, I promise
Just set the in-car-gain with Numpad + and - to something that feels good for your personal hands and that's it!

Ok, don't really know if I got this correctly but I came up with this Curve after editing the gamma file

Doesn't look linear though, I haven't tested it yet.

etc..
The first five values are the ones I changed so I can theoretically get rid of the deadzone.
Btw I did have my concerns about the clipping app, since logitechs are quite weak to start with. The app usually gets rid of clipping whatsoever but makes the wheel incredibly light in the process. Plus the app version 5.3 I believe doesn't support the different modes you had (the ones that let you choose the amount of clipping allowed). In any case a bit more clipping allowed is probably the tradeoff for having a substantial weight to logitech wheels.

 

[Deleted member 387850]

The noise you hear is indeed the 0.00 value! Without it you'll feel a little "notch" when doing a smooth left/right like through a wide chicane.

Funny, I'd been meaning to ask about this as well! I'd noticed when the car is sitting stationary you can hear what I assume is the motor in the wheel running. I'm guessing this is okay and intended?

In the end I made a slight tweak to the "recommended" LUT for my G29 and reduced the first five values to:

0.00|0.08
0.01|0.10
0.02|0.14
0.03|0.18
0.04|0.21

Feel free to raise them to whatever you like, you can't break anything

I have to dispute this Rasmus, as when I first altered the values I meant to reduce 0.00|0.10 to 0.08. A "mathmatical error" led to me changing it to 0.00|0.80 instead which is quite different! When I entered the car I suddenly had 80% FFB going to the wheel immediately and nearly had heart failure! So whilst you can't break the wheel it very nearly broke me permanently On a plus side it very neatly demonstrated exactly what the 0.00 value is doing!

 

[RasmusP]

Funny, I'd been meaning to ask about this as well! I'd noticed when the car is sitting stationary you can hear what I assume is the motor in the wheel running. I'm guessing this is okay and intended?

In the end I made a slight tweak to the "recommended" LUT for my G29 and reduced the first five values to:

0.00|0.08
0.01|0.10
0.02|0.14
0.03|0.18
0.04|0.21



I have to dispute this Rasmus, as when I first altered the values I meant to reduce 0.00|0.10 to 0.08. A "mathmatical error" led to me changing it to 0.00|0.80 instead which is quite different! When I entered the car I suddenly had 80% FFB going to the wheel immediately and nearly had heart failure! So whilst you can't break the wheel it very nearly broke me permanently On a plus side it very neatly demonstrated exactly what the 0.00 value is doing!

Haha yeah the leading 0 is quite important
It's also interesting when you try to find out what the profiler exactly does and you put the profiler slider to 120% which leads to the 0.00 "noise" transforming into violent shaking of the wheel without any sense whatsoever

 

[rikirolly]

Thanks a lot RasmusP!!! I started from the first LUTs and I finally tried the stronger one! It’s incredible the level of control you can get with this LUT! Could you explain the steps you followed to produce these LUTs or is a secret?
Thank you so much.

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks a lot RasmusP!!! I started from the first LUTs and I finally tried the stronger one! It’s incredible the level of control you can get with this LUT! Could you explain the steps you followed to produce these LUTs or is a secret?
Thank you so much.

Glad that I could make another person happy with it
No secret at all! I'm glad to share everything to as many people as possible so more games include something similar!
Important first info is that I'm studying Mechatronical Engineering (Electronics, coding, mechanics, construction, physics and maths ; everything a little, nothing really well ).
So I could imagine how the AC ffb output, the Logitech-driver and the wheelbase are working together, in which way they add/subtract/pass things through and also I could imagine what would be needed to achieve a different feeling.

Now to understand it visually I'll show some graphs

There are three crucial situations where you feel if the FFB is hitting the nail and feels real or not:
- High-Speed 90° turn like Pouhon at Spa [progressive buildup]
- Bumpy straight like Döttinger Höhe at the Nordschleife [wheel should shake but stay straight]
- Fast chicane like Biondetti at Mugello [Smooth center transition without a notch or anything in the middle]

Now the progressive buildup is quite easily achieved and highly depends on personal liking. The force just need to go up in a way you like to the maximum and should still keep some headroom for details (no clipping). The amount of headroom for details depends on the general bend of the LUT curve. The Gamma-Like LUT (there's a gamma setting you can use instead of a LUT and from my experience it does the same as my "Gamma-Like LUT"),
compresses the FFB so you will have a higher force in your hands when AC would normally output a lower level. This is cool for road cars or when you are drifting a lot as it feels like more "weight in the wheel" and the wheel spins faster due to higher forces. You lose quite some amount of detail though as little spikes won't really make a big difference when you're already at let's say 80% ffb output.

Now first:
Default FFB:

Strongly bent LUT curve, less Headroom but higher overall force at lower AC-Output:

Now that was a little about the shape of the bend. For maximum feel of detail I like the default FFB shape, meaning a straight line after you exceed the dead-zone of the G27.
I'll show you how the default FFB with 15% minimum force from the menu looks like in a graph:

15% Min-Force:

As you see this is not smooth. It feels good for a single turn but when you look at a chicane and imagine you go left and right and the ffb goes from 0% to 60% on one side and then moves to 60% on the other side while passing 0% again (center transition), or just mirror the graph to visualize it:

You see that you will have a notch at center transition and you will feel it!

The main problem with the dead-zone is that the "fall off" is progressive and not just a "cut off". You need to go to 0% in a curve that smoothly reduces the force.
I tried to come up with the "counter-curve" for the G27. Gladly the shape of the dead-zone-falloff is more or less the same across G25/G27/G29 and just a little different for DFGT so I only needed to come up with it ONCE. I did that by try and error and a lot of "imagination"

This would look like this:

As you can now see the transition for a chicane looks a lot smoother but you will still feel the force going to full zero at the very center. I then just put a value in for 0% that looked good in Excel to be honest and it felt great!
It's the little "noise" you hear and feel when you're standing still or are in the pits with my LUTs. It somehow applies some resistance for the center position but is so soft that the wheel doesn't actually move. It's comparable to "dampening" but only applies at 0% ffb.
Now enough words, look at the final curve (I scaled it down to 1/1 for better comparison):

You can ignore the little waves. You don't feel them and they are basically "rounding errors". Now one side is boring. Let's have a look for a "chicane" like above:

As you can see now when you are at full force in a left turn and then pass the center position and go to full force for the right turn, it will look like this, basically!
The force goes down in a nice shape, does a little curve at 0% and goes back up smoothly. This curve counters the deadzone-fall-off of the Logitech wheels quite nicely and is what makes my LUTs as awesome as they are (sorry, don't wanna brag haha)!

And again for drifting, the Gamma-Like-LUT mirrored:

So the last questions should be:
1. Why 100% in the profiler?
2. Why 50% in AC and 1.5 instead of 1.0 in the LUT?!

1.
To test what the profiler exactly does I did two things:
- Deactivating the LUT and use 80% ffb so definitely NO clipping. Then I raised, while driving a circle on the skidpad mod-track, the profiler slider until I couldn't feel the force getting higher. It was at around 130%. So I knew that the profiler can "clip" too. Force just doesn't get higher and details got cut off more and more.
I then put the ffb back to 100% so ffb-clip showed a bit of clipping. Did the same and the maximum in the profiler was at around 105%.
Then the control-test: threw in a LUT that scaled the default FFB to 500%. Now even 101% didn't increase the FFB!

Conclusion: above 100% are not needed if the game has enough output!

Now the question was what would happen at 90% in the profiler? Would the clipping go away? Would the force stay the same?
I applied a LUT that scales the FFB to 200%, so massive clipping but at 50% in the profiler I should be back to 100%, right?
No, that didn't work. Instead I got the same amount of details (none) but the maximum force got less. So at 10% in the profiler I had NO details and only a little bit of force in my hands.

Conclusion: below 100% in the profiler just takes the FFB (clipping or not) and reduces the maximum output to your hands.

Final conclusion: always put the profiler to 100%!

2. I then tested a little with the in car FFB (numpad + and -) and found out that although AC would show clipping, the force still got higher.
Conclusion: AC cuts off details in it's own before reaching the input-limit of the profiler. I need to boost the FFB between them!

I then put AC to 80% (no clipping shown) and applied a LUT that scaled the FFB a little bit higher. It felt better. At the same time my "fall-off-curve" felt like I could optimize it a bit too...
Played around in Excel and it resulted in some ugly numbers.
I thought "screw that" and made it 50% AC and 1.5x in the LUT. Curve felt nice and I stick with it

To fine tune the FFB I just raise or lower the In-Car-FFB via numpad to my liking.
The goal is always to have an as tight as possible wheel when going straight (wheel should shake a little but not start to "shake more and more on it's own) while still having a perfectly smooth center transition through chicanes.
Some cars need 80% In-Car-Gain and some cars need up to 125%.
Yes, it means that all cars will be similar "strong" and a 50's F1 will be as strong as a Porsche Panamera. To simulate the difference of FFB strength you will need a way more expensive wheel. The Logitech wheels only have one "Sweetspot" and that's it...
But hey, the physics are still very different so I got that going for me!

I hope the little anecdote was good to read and understandable. If you have any questions just ask. I spent so many hours on this... Happy to share the knowledge and explain everything

PS: I like big block to highlight "key words and sentences" so if you forgot 90% of it after reading it (like I always do) you can just read the big block parts and make sense of it again. Hope you don't mind!

 

[Alexium]

Hello, RasmusP! I use your DFGT LUT and want to know one thing. It is not about the center notch. I can live with it. It will be hard to explain...When my DFGT wheel is centered, I can't feel a heavy deep effects from road. But when wheel is rotated slightly (~5 degrees), I feel it properly as a soft... hmm... blows. I hope it's right word. In same time my wheel is very light at center. Most FFB effects are like child's beanbag (toy). It are not deep. So for better feeling of road waves I should to drive light zigzags. In other time I feel good feedback when drive one car side at the road and other on the dirt or grass (good rocking). And I feel properly hits when crossing kerbs with centered wheel.

Is it the hardware issue? I got my DFGT as a present by one friend so it was used since 2013 by the previous owner.

Thanks

 

[RasmusP]

Hello, RasmusP! I use your DFGT LUT and want to know one thing. It is not about the center notch. I can live with it. It will be hard to explain...When my DFGT wheel is centered, I can't feel a heavy deep effects from road. But when wheel is rotated slightly (~5 degrees), I feel it properly as a soft... hmm... blows. I hope it's right word. In same time my wheel is very light at center. Most FFB effects are like child's beanbag (toy). It are not deep. So for better feeling of road waves I should to drive light zigzags. In other time I feel good feedback when drive one car side at the road and other on the dirt or grass (good rocking). And I feel properly hits when crossing kerbs with centered wheel.

Is it the hardware issue? I got my DFGT as a present by one friend so it was used since 2013 by the previous owner.

Thanks

The Logitech wheels need lower forces around the center, construction wise.
So yeah, probably a hardware issue
But it's not a "failure", it's just the DFGT. Friend of mine has a DFGT too and he hates Dirt Rally with it because the little rattles and pulling "spikes" from little stones etc are more like softly pulling to one side and then the other whereas on my G27 they are little spikes, giving notches.
So I guess that's what you mean with "blows"...

 

[Van Cauter]

Hey Rasmus,

Where do you change ffb Strength in the Logitech Gaming software. Is the sensitivity(by default this is set to 50%) ?

 

[RasmusP]

Hey Rasmus,

Where do you change ffb Strength in the Logitech Gaming software. Is the sensitivity(by default this is set to 50%) ?

I don't have a G29 so I don't know. From googling the settings available it seems so that "sensitivity" is changing the linearity of the steering input, which you absolutely don't want in any sim!

It might be that Logitech came to the conclusion that it makes sense to keep the strength at "100% all the time" and change it from within the games.
If you set a game to 100% and the Logitech driver (G27) to above 100% the ffb will just get cut off, clipping.

So it makes sense to just get rid of that slider which only lead to confusion and bad user experiences.