RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

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Nice to hear! If it feels different, it's working.

Just for general information:
When you import the lut via cm, it puts the lut file into documents/assetto corsa/cfg and edits the ini file. Putting the files in the folder before or after shouldn't make any difference.

Sometimes though, cm decides to un-load the lut file or switches back to the old lut file, if you did load a new one.

It will show your changes but you won't feel any difference.
When you close ac and cm then and restart cm, you'll see that it switched back to your old configuration.


It's not that bad though. Simply configure the ini file manually, start ac with the standard launcher via steam, go on track with any car/track, drive out of the pits, close everything and start content manager.

Then go on track via cm, close ac, close cm, start cm, see if it now kept the changes.

Once it saves your changes, it will keep them and the bug is fixed.
Alright bro, i will surely check it out if thats the case and then do the procedure if needed.
tbh i installed a fresh copy of the game. then installed cm, loaded the lut and saved the settings. so i think i never got that problem.
 
Hi,

In relation to ACC V1.8 being released I couldn't find a nice damper setting for my own LUT, so I decided to try your recommended one. Overall I like it, but I'm experiencing 'unrealistic' vibrations when the wheel is dead center (0°). It feels like minimum force is on it's highest setting when driving at 200+ km/h, even though I always have it set at 0%. My own LUT doesn't have this effect and seems a lot smoother in transition from the center compared to yours. However, the difference is that your LUT centers the wheel very well when attempting to make it oscillate in a straight which is something realisitic that I really like. My question is: is there a way to gain a deeper understanding of LUT values, so I can edit my file (or yours for personal use obviously) accordingly?

(video showing what I mean by 'attempting to make it oscillate in a straight').

Thank you in advance :)
 
Hi,

In relation to ACC V1.8 being released I couldn't find a nice damper setting for my own LUT, so I decided to try your recommended one. Overall I like it, but I'm experiencing 'unrealistic' vibrations when the wheel is dead center (0°). It feels like minimum force is on it's highest setting when driving at 200+ km/h, even though I always have it set at 0%. My own LUT doesn't have this effect and seems a lot smoother in transition from the center compared to yours. However, the difference is that your LUT centers the wheel very well when attempting to make it oscillate in a straight which is something realisitic that I really like. My question is: is there a way to gain a deeper understanding of LUT values, so I can edit my file (or yours for personal use obviously) accordingly?

(video showing what I mean by 'attempting to make it oscillate in a straight').

Thank you in advance :)
My LUTs have "FFB noise", how I would call it. I've put a value in for 0, which is random ffb basically.
I felt the center was still not fully smooth in AC so I put in a value for 0 and tested it.
Too high and you really get vibrations. Too low and you will feel the "hole" when passing the center.

So to get rid of the vibrations, lower the first value in the LUT file. Or make it 0 | 0.

To understand the LUT file better, you need to draw it as a graph. I always do it in Excel but since the LUT is using | and . instead of tabstops and comma, I always have to use "transfer text into colums", set the seperator to | and the decimal splitter to . instead of , ... German Excel :whistling:

Anyway, here's the "recommended" LUT:
Important note: It's made for 50% gain and boosts the ffb by 150%. That's why the Y-Axis has different values compared to the other LUTs.
upload_2018-1-30_12-30-0-png.233151


It's only using 100 values so the accuracy isn't perfect. However AC will smooth and interpolate the curve so you won't feel the little wobbles.

As you can see, my LUT doesn't start with 0|0. That's where the vibrations are coming from.
Then you can see the shape at the beginning. The standard "min force" setting starts at 0 | 0 but then simply puts a straight line from there. 15% min force look like this:
1639154597163.png


You can clearly see why I find the normal Min Force setting NOT smooth enough.
So I basically just dialled in the Min Force as good as I could, then put that value into Excel and then manually edited the first 20 Numbers until it was a smooth curve.

I'm not trying to change the linearity of the wheel or anything. I just wanted to make it smooth without a deadzone :)

Here's a custom LUT I made for another user and his G923:
1639154818199.png


And this is with the first value at 0:

1639154836591.png
 
My LUTs have "FFB noise", how I would call it. I've put a value in for 0, which is random ffb basically.
I felt the center was still not fully smooth in AC so I put in a value for 0 and tested it.
Too high and you really get vibrations. Too low and you will feel the "hole" when passing the center.

So to get rid of the vibrations, lower the first value in the LUT file. Or make it 0 | 0.

To understand the LUT file better, you need to draw it as a graph. I always do it in Excel but since the LUT is using | and . instead of tabstops and comma, I always have to use "transfer text into colums", set the seperator to | and the decimal splitter to . instead of , ... German Excel :whistling:

Anyway, here's the "recommended" LUT:
Important note: It's made for 50% gain and boosts the ffb by 150%. That's why the Y-Axis has different values compared to the other LUTs.
upload_2018-1-30_12-30-0-png.233151


It's only using 100 values so the accuracy isn't perfect. However AC will smooth and interpolate the curve so you won't feel the little wobbles.

As you can see, my LUT doesn't start with 0|0. That's where the vibrations are coming from.
Then you can see the shape at the beginning. The standard "min force" setting starts at 0 | 0 but then simply puts a straight line from there. 15% min force look like this:
View attachment 524061

You can clearly see why I find the normal Min Force setting NOT smooth enough.
So I basically just dialled in the Min Force as good as I could, then put that value into Excel and then manually edited the first 20 Numbers until it was a smooth curve.

I'm not trying to change the linearity of the wheel or anything. I just wanted to make it smooth without a deadzone :)

Here's a custom LUT I made for another user and his G923:
View attachment 524062

And this is with the first value at 0:

View attachment 524063
Thank you for the info, it is really useful!
 
Hey, so I just got back to using my logitech g29 since i got a new computer as well. I remembered about all the Lut stuff but the wheel check would never run for me and generate my file. So i found your guide here, but since using your Luts both the "recommended" and "normal" the wheel is just too stiff. I'm also using ffbclip app and i swear when i change the strength from 100 to 10, there is no difference. I've launched through normal game and asseto corsa manager, on manager it did show i had the Lut, and i'm sure i did the install correctly. Just wondering is there anything i can do to make the wheel less stiff?
 
Hey, so I just got back to using my logitech g29 since i got a new computer as well. I remembered about all the Lut stuff but the wheel check would never run for me and generate my file. So i found your guide here, but since using your Luts both the "recommended" and "normal" the wheel is just too stiff. I'm also using ffbclip app and i swear when i change the strength from 100 to 10, there is no difference. I've launched through normal game and asseto corsa manager, on manager it did show i had the Lut, and i'm sure i did the install correctly. Just wondering is there anything i can do to make the wheel less stiff?
Hi,
are you sure ffbclip isn't raising the per-car-gain?
I would suggest to deactivate ffbclip for a short test via the ac settings in cm, apps. Uncheck ffbclip.

Normally it should become weaker!
Did you try to press the minus key on the numpad? This will trigger a little notification at the top of your screen, showing your per-car-ffb-gain.


Btw the lut generator is modifying the normal, linear ffb a lot.
It's a bit complicated to explain but basically:
I highly doubt that giving a wheel a kick via ffb pulse and then measuring how far it continued on its own is an accurate way to measure the linearity of ffb motors pushing against your hand.
This would only be accurate if you would play a game where you would catch the wheel after it was pushed by the ffb pulse.
But ffb is a constant force against your hands, which are a constant resistance.
What wheelcheck is measuring is the linearity of the friction of the wheelbase without ffb.

I know how the lut generator LUTs look like for the Logitech wheels.
What you were using before, with the generated lut, was a very steep curvature.
Very low ffb output until about 50-60% ffb level, then going very steeply to 100%.

Meaning you had way lower average cornering forces but the same peak forces when going over a sausage kerb.

Ofc you're free to like that! But it's not what the physics engine is actually putting out.

My LUTs only shape the first 20% of ffb in a smooth curve with the same effect as 15% minimum force.
But the normal minimum force isn't smooth at all, which is why I created these LUTs.
 
Hi,
are you sure ffbclip isn't raising the per-car-gain?
I would suggest to deactivate ffbclip for a short test via the ac settings in cm, apps. Uncheck ffbclip.

Normally it should become weaker!
Did you try to press the minus key on the numpad? This will trigger a little notification at the top of your screen, showing your per-car-ffb-gain.


Btw the lut generator is modifying the normal, linear ffb a lot.
It's a bit complicated to explain but basically:
I highly doubt that giving a wheel a kick via ffb pulse and then measuring how far it continued on its own is an accurate way to measure the linearity of ffb motors pushing against your hand.
This would only be accurate if you would play a game where you would catch the wheel after it was pushed by the ffb pulse.
But ffb is a constant force against your hands, which are a constant resistance.
What wheelcheck is measuring is the linearity of the friction of the wheelbase without ffb.

I know how the lut generator LUTs look like for the Logitech wheels.
What you were using before, with the generated lut, was a very steep curvature.
Very low ffb output until about 50-60% ffb level, then going very steeply to 100%.

Meaning you had way lower average cornering forces but the same peak forces when going over a sausage kerb.

Ofc you're free to like that! But it's not what the physics engine is actually putting out.

My LUTs only shape the first 20% of ffb in a smooth curve with the same effect as 15% minimum force.
But the normal minimum force isn't smooth at all, which is why I created these LUTs.

Granted my current desk is very thin ( 1.5" inch ), i have a hard time making any turn that rotates the wheel, without feeling like i'm lifting my desk. When i use the ffb clip, and then use the numpad - +, the notification appears like the % is being fought. When i have the ffbclip app on screen and make the slider go down, i really see no difference in any strength. I know my problem isn't necessarily from your stuff, but i just remember playing years ago and having a very loose wheel with good ffb. Drifting right now is impossible, the wheel just wants to stay in the center. Also any idea on why my wheelcheck doesn't run anymore? I used it on a old computer with the same wheel and it generated my lut. When i redownloaded asseto corsa on this new pc i saw in the documents i had my old "custom" lut, and when i edited it to see inside the values was ony like 4 lines, compared to your luts with allot of value lines


Edit: After uninstalling the logitech wheel from the drivers atleast 10 times, redownloading 10 different logitech software versions and then a few logitech g hub programs, it seems to have fixed my wheel.
 
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When i use the ffb clip, and then use the numpad - +, the notification appears like the % is being fought.
Yeah that was the issue I was talking about with ffbclip. It sets the ffb to whatever the algorithm calculates and you can't overwrite it.
You can set ffbclip to "manual" instead of "auto" though and then try to lower the per-car-gain with the numpad buttons.
Also any idea on why my wheelcheck doesn't run anymore?
Sadly no idea.. It should be independent of the attached wheel.
It works for my fanatec csw 2.5 without issues. It just accesses the direct input section of directX so as long as your wheel works in the windows game controller settings, wheelcheck should work too.
When i redownloaded asseto corsa on this new pc i saw in the documents i had my old "custom" lut, and when i edited it to see inside the values was ony like 4 lines, compared to your luts with allot of value lines
Mhh.. Probably just a lut that had the same name then?
Fewer entries aren't really an issue, assetto corsa interpolates between the values.
I just chose to use 100 because it gave me a good accuracy to get rid of the dead zone in a smooth way.
After the first 15 entries I could just put the last line and that's it. But I could also just let excel fill it linearly and export it.
So I used the full 100.
Edit: After uninstalling the logitech wheel from the drivers atleast 10 times, redownloading 10 different logitech software versions and then a few logitech g hub programs, it seems to have fixed my wheel.
Interesting! What exactly means "fixed"?
 
using the recomended LUT with g29.
I had to up the gain from 50 to 100% because otherwise i couldnt feel anything in low speed, is this normal?
No, that's not normal. It's because of the second post: The LUT isn't active.
in addition to my previous question:

my ff_post_process.ini keeps getting reset, im using content manager, anyone knows why and how i can fix it?
Yep! That's happening quite often with Content Manager..
You need to do:

  1. Load the LUT via CM or drop the LUT + ff_post_process.ini into the correct folder.
  2. Close CM, open CM. Make sure everything is configured as you want it.
  3. Then close cm and use the default AC launcher. Go on track with any combo.
  4. Quit the session, close the default launcher.
  5. Open CM, check if everything is correct and go on track.
  6. Close AC, close CM
  7. Open CM again, check if the LUT is still correctly loaded.
  8. If yes: great, it should now stay like that.
  9. If not: repeat

It's an annoying bug where CM lets you load a LUT but when you go on track, it will reset to the configuration before loading the new LUT.
But it won't show that reset.. Only when you restart CM, it'll seem like you never loaded the new LUT...

Going on track via the default launcher once should usually solve the issue :)
 
No, that's not normal. It's because of the second post: The LUT isn't active.

Yep! That's happening quite often with Content Manager..
You need to do:

  1. Load the LUT via CM or drop the LUT + ff_post_process.ini into the correct folder.
  2. Close CM, open CM. Make sure everything is configured as you want it.
  3. Then close cm and use the default AC launcher. Go on track with any combo.
  4. Quit the session, close the default launcher.
  5. Open CM, check if everything is correct and go on track.
  6. Close AC, close CM
  7. Open CM again, check if the LUT is still correctly loaded.
  8. If yes: great, it should now stay like that.
  9. If not: repeat

It's an annoying bug where CM lets you load a LUT but when you go on track, it will reset to the configuration before loading the new LUT.
But it won't show that reset.. Only when you restart CM, it'll seem like you never loaded the new LUT...

Going on track via the default launcher once should usually solve the issue :)
it actually resets the LUT before going on track, is this a different bug?
also: i didnt get it to work :(
 
Last edited:
No, that's not normal. It's because of the second post: The LUT isn't active.

Yep! That's happening quite often with Content Manager..
You need to do:

  1. Load the LUT via CM or drop the LUT + ff_post_process.ini into the correct folder.
  2. Close CM, open CM. Make sure everything is configured as you want it.
  3. Then close cm and use the default AC launcher. Go on track with any combo.
  4. Quit the session, close the default launcher.
  5. Open CM, check if everything is correct and go on track.
  6. Close AC, close CM
  7. Open CM again, check if the LUT is still correctly loaded.
  8. If yes: great, it should now stay like that.
  9. If not: repeat

It's an annoying bug where CM lets you load a LUT but when you go on track, it will reset to the configuration before loading the new LUT.
But it won't show that reset.. Only when you restart CM, it'll seem like you never loaded the new LUT...

Going on track via the default launcher once should usually solve the issue :)
another thing, i cant find the "import LUT" button in the content manager, its not in settings->assetto corsa->controls->force feedback
 
it actually resets the LUT before going on track, is this a different bug?
also: i didnt get it to work :(
So what exactly are you doing in what order and how are you seeing that it resets but are not seeing the Import LUT button?

We'll get it to work, don't worry :)
another thing, i cant find the "import LUT" button in the content manager, its not in settings->assetto corsa->controls->force feedback
I guess that's the missing part. You neeed to check "Enable FFB post-processing" in CM:

Un-checked:
1640823101372.png


Checked:
1640823125941.png
 
So what exactly are you doing in what order and how are you seeing that it resets but are not seeing the Import LUT button?

We'll get it to work, don't worry :)

I guess that's the missing part. You neeed to check "Enable FFB post-processing" in CM:

Un-checked:
View attachment 528669

Checked:
View attachment 528670
Thanks, it works!

Stupid me didn't enable FFB post-processing ‍♂️ (this is meant to be a facepalm emoji :) )
Thats probably why it kept resetting, and i knew it reset because the ff_post_process.ini kept resetting to default.

But yeah, simply enabling FFB post-processing fixed everything! Didn't even have to the the launch into standard AC launcher thingy.

So thanks!

I got another question, but unrelated to this thread.
What are some must have mods i have to install? Im kinda noob and if i search on google i get different answers every time (except for csp and sol).
 
Last edited:
Thanks, it works!

Stupid me didn't enable FFB post-processing ‍♂️ (this is meant to be a facepalm emoji :) )
Thats probably why it kept resetting, and i knew it reset because the ff_post_process.ini kept resetting to default.

But yeah, simply enabling FFB post-processing fixed everything! Didn't even have to the the launch into standard AC launcher thingy.

So thanks!

I got another question, but unrelated to this thread.
What are some must have mods i have to install? Im kinda noob and if i search on google i get different answers every time (except for csp and sol).
Awesome to hear!

About recommended mods: way too many..
In general though: Racedepartment has probably the best (and legal, and often performance optimized) content.
Go into the mods category, choose track, car, app etc and then sort the categories for "downloads" to get the most downloaded mods on top and then for "rating" to get the mods with the best ratings.

The best cars, tracks, apps and other stuff should then be on the first page of each category :)
 
can i use that settings for drift or is there have different one for drift

can i use that settings for the dirft?

before asked that question but im gonna ask again wich lut u are recommed for drift or i need to make new one?
I don't see any settings.. You posted an empty post, then the question and then the same question again :roflmao:

For drifting, in theory, everything is the same as for normal track racing.
Try the recommended lut with 50% gain in the menu and 100% in the car (numpad + and - button).

If the wheel isn't spinning fast enough, try the "gamma like lut". It will spin the wheel a bit faster.
For that gamma like lut, use 100% gain in the menu and in the car.
 
I don't see any settings.. You posted an empty post, then the question and then the same question again :roflmao:

For drifting, in theory, everything is the same as for normal track racing.
Try the recommended lut with 50% gain in the menu and 100% in the car (numpad + and - button).

If the wheel isn't spinning fast enough, try the "gamma like lut". It will spin the wheel a bit faster.
For that gamma like lut, use 100% gain in the menu and in the car.
yea i asked 3 times wrongly my bad :D i haven't tried the settings yet, but can I drift and drive with the recommended one?
 
yea i asked 3 times wrongly my bad :D i haven't tried the settings yet, but can I drift and drive with the recommended one?
Yes you can.
You don't need special settings for drifting!
That should all be simulated by the cars that are made for drifting!

The only problem with Logitech wheels is that they don't spin quick enough. Too much internal resistance, motor not strong enough.

So it can help to have "more ffb early on" instead of a linear progression in strength.
The gamma like lut (gamma is a curvature coefficient basically) will give you 60% ffb although the game only outputs about 30% ffb.
Therefore everything will feel stiffer and stronger.
But towards 100%, the gamma like lut won't become much stronger anymore. You just get more of the available ffb earlier.

With the recommended LUT, everything will become linearly stronger.
Your muscle memory will feel the car better. But the wheel might spin too slow for some drift moves.
 

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