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I'll give these a go, 900 degrees just doesn't work for me though, I'm guessing it determines the rotation from calibration since if I skip this and just use the defaults I find it more useable.First of all let me start by saying that I don't recognize some of the complaints I read about the FFB in this game.
I have made absolutely minimal changes and it all felt pretty much okay with me out of the box.
Here are my Logitech G27 overall settings (same for G25) which you can set in windows via Start > Devices and Printers > G27 Racing Wheel. Right click > Game Controller Settings > Properties > Settings.
View attachment 92562
(If you prefer 900 degrees rotation only adjust the slider)
In Game Setttings
First of all select the proper Logitech G27 present and run the three calibrations with these settings
View attachment 92564
With the exception of the Steering Deadzone, i have set the other deadzones to 5% to prevent spiking.
Overall Force Feedback reduced to 85%
View attachment 92565
When you tick the box to combine them both the throttle and the brake pedal are on the same axis which you really want to avoid in sims. If you let them operate separately you can use both at the same time.What's the difference between G27 Combined pedals vs the Separate pedals,
Fantastic post! The deadzone removal is absolutely necessary for the G27 and for me made all of the difference in the world. I was about to dump this game and realized that I forgot to do this!My G27 settings:
Logitech Profiler: Same as Bram (except I use 900 degrees).
FFB at 100%
Tyre Force at 75%
Deadzone Removal Range: 0.18
Note1: I measured my FFB deadzone using Wheelcheck at 100% strength, this gave me a minimum force of 16%. I added a little bit more and ended up with 0.18 for DRR.
Note2: The FFB value in Project CARS overrules the strength setting in the LT profiler if you allow the game to override settings. This also means that any > 100 value is no longer possible.
Note3: On my wheel, minimum force required increases at lower FFB strength. At 85% (default in Project CARS), my FFB deadzone is a whopping 33% (measured using Wheelcheck)!
Taking these notes into account, I'm not surprised by many complaints people have, because on certain wheels it means you're basically missing all the low-end feel (kerbs, bumps, etc) at the default 85% strength. You can of course try to compensate with tyre force, but this will also lead to clipping on the top end. It's better to set FFB at 100 and modify TF accordingly. As always, use the FFB meter in the telemetry HUD to see if you're clipping and you're getting all the FX.
Weird that after I rechecked, I had my G27 set as Combined pedals, but I didn't have any problems with pedals working separately. Or was it because I use the Clutch as my brake pedal (left-foot braking)? Nonetheless, I just re-set the wheel to separate pedals.When you tick the box to combine them both the throttle and the brake pedal are on the same axis which you really want to avoid in sims. If you let them operate separately you can use both at the same time.
If the sensors are using a different axis than normal, you might need to assign the axis first before calibration. Can you edit the current pedal assignment and assign the axis?I have a G27 wheel and pedals, the pedals have been modded with hall sensors and using a Leo Bodnar cable adaptor, they work with Assetto Corsa (though sometimes when starting for the first time after a reboot I do not get any accelerator, brake and clutch. I usually restart AC or calibrating using Leo Bodnar cable settings and presto they are all there ) However with PCARS I only get accelerator and brake in PCARS settings when calibrating I press the pedals, only the accelerator and clutch register to 100 but nothing on the brake!
Anyone have any Ideas? Maybe it is time to open up the pedals and have a look at the sensors but I find it odd that AC works and PC doesn't!
I feel a bit stuuuupid!, as Clarkson would say. When I tried to get this going I had looked a the "EDIT ASSIGNMENTS" tab and clicked onto the brake parameter, I did not realise that I just had to push the pedal to assign it. I had a brain fart and was expecting something like " Push the pedal/button now" message, and thought I had missed something!If the sensors are using a different axis than normal, you might need to assign the axis first before calibration. Can you edit the current pedal assignment and assign the axis?