Next Level Motion V3 settings thread (highly requested...?)

OK Next Level motion users, here it is: my tuned settings that I feel give the best feeling of what a car should represent while racing. Taken a while to get this up and running, with barely free time to actually sim race as it is. Hopefully you will get some value out of this and it further increases your enjoyment of an already pretty good product out of the box.

I have listed a few different profiles, use the Assetto Corsa one for all the big sim racing titles (of course utilizing the Formula & non Formula profiles for open wheel vs GT style cars) and use the Dirt Rally template for that title as well as any other rally title that takes advantage of motion. Don't forget to change both the 'motion' AND 'motion post processing' tabs for full effects.

Obviously these are my personal preferences and they may not suit everyone, but give them a try and have a play with them yourself to alter it as you see fit. Post any feelings/comments you have back here and maybe together we can further tune these settings for even better results.

Dirt Rally post process.png Dirt Rally settings.png Formula post process.png Formula settings.png NON formula post process.png NON formula settings.png
 
Thanks Bruce,
I tried to follow your instructions very carefully but when I switch in game telemetry option from 2018 to legacy I don't get any motion.
I don't actually own F1 2017 so I then tried it with F1 2016 which I do own but still no joy.
Does this solution only work if you own a copy of F1 2017?
Gary.
 
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Thanks Bruce,
I tried to follow your instructions very carefully but when I switch in game telemetry option from 2018 to legacy I don't get any motion.
I don't actually own F1 2017 so I then tried it with F1 2016 which I do own but still no joy.
Does this solution only work if you own a copy of F1 2017?
Gary.

Hey Gary -- F1 2018 does work for some people ... just not for me. Did you try it as is ? or are you having the same issues I am having ? I can try to take some screen shots if that helps.
Talk to you soon, Bruce
 
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Hey Gary -- F1 2018 does work for some people ... just not for me. Did you try it as is ? or are you having the same issues I am having ? I can try to take some screen shots if that helps.
Talk to you soon, Bruce
Hey Bruce, I definitely find the motion in F1 2018 very jittery. Certainly not as good as F1 2016. Seems fine for first couple of corners then it just shakes me from side to side on a level straight, so annoying that I've gone back to playing without motion. Was worth a try, hopefully F1 2019 will work better, should be out in a couple of months.
 
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Ok, so I approached Matthew at Next level regarding telemetry problems in F1 2018. He got back to me very quickly with a new beta version of platform manager 2.86 which seems to have fixed this problem.
 
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I have Hotas, Eve Valkyrie, DCS World, Elite Dangerous.

NLRv3 supports DCS World pretty well, but for the space games I tried mapping the joystick and the results never felt right. Maybe because they are space games.

I've flown a number of aircraft in DCS World, but it's funny that what really grabbed me was Eve Valkyrie. Granted that was over a year ago and they still had a decent number of players online at a time, but I LOVED that game. I felt like I was in Battle Star Galactica.
 
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I have Hotas, Eve Valkyrie, DCS World, Elite Dangerous.

NLRv3 supports DCS World pretty well, but for the space games I tried mapping the joystick and the results never felt right. Maybe because they are space games.

I've flown a number of aircraft in DCS World, but it's funny that what really grabbed me was Eve Valkyrie. Granted that was over a year ago and they still had a decent number of players online at a time, but I LOVED that game. I felt like I was in Battle Star Galactica.
I agree that eve valkyrie & elite dangerous are definitely worth trying with motion as an experience but it's just so much better in Dcs, x plane etc where game developer has provided telemetry .
I did ask Matthew regarding elite dangerous and he said Fronteir are unwilling to release telemetry as it could be used for cheating.
Haven't tried the new Il2 profiles as I'm without vr headset until 28th June.
Another one getting vr support is No mans sky but doesn't have native hotas support so could require some fiddling with joystick gremlin.
 
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Ok, so I approached Matthew at Next level regarding telemetry problems in F1 2018. He got back to me very quickly with a new beta version of platform manager 2.86 which seems to have fixed this problem.
Hey Gary -- Ash from NLR sent me a link for the same beta version. I haven 't tried it yet but hope to today. Glad to hear it fixed it for you !!! Gives me hope !! Bruce
 
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1. I really, badly want an option where we can toggle off/on whether the NLM v3 simulates g-forces or body movement, or, if we can even individually choose.
Example
Maybe I want the seats' pitch to be based off g-forces but the sway to be based off chassis (eg. body roll during turns) or something.

We would also need an in-game g-forces amount we can set for each.
Example
Let's say I wanted both sway and pitch to be controlled purely by g-forces. I could set pitch to 6.0 gs so that it would take 6.0 longitudinal gs of the in-game car for the NLM unit to pitch to it's maximum amount of whatever I've set pitch to (0.85, 1.10, whatever). While at the same time, maybe I want sway to be 3.5 or 4.0 gs so that it would take 3.5 or 4.0 lateral gs of the in-game car for the NLM unit to sway to it's maximum (whatever I've set it to, 0.60, 1.05, whatever).

Of course from 0 to max movement & g's will be scaled linearly (ie. 1:1)

If NLR want to get more fancy, they could also introduce a linearity slider for the seat movement VS in-game car g's if people don't want it at the default 1:1. (this would also be able to be set individually for pitch and roll).



2. I could be wrong but the NLM's seat movement currently doesn't seem to scale properly from one car to another and from one game to another. If, under braking, my in-game car's front-end pitches down 3 inches at x speed and x acceleration, and if another car in a different game's front-end pitches down the exact same distance (3 inches), speed and acceleration, the NLM v3 should react to that identically in both games.

It seems each game doesn't match other games in terms of how the NLM v3 reacts (chassis movements, g-forces, whatever) and therefore each game requires different NLM v3 settings.
Example
Assuming the NLM v3 settings are identical between each game, hard braking in an F3 car in Automobilista, Assetto Corsa, and iRacing should all give an almost identical NLM throw-distance, top speed, and acceleration but I feel that's not always the case...Am I wrong about this?



3. Is it just me or is the NLM v3 not capable of pitching and swaying at the same time? If accelerating and turning, there should be pitch and roll at the same time but it seems like the unit isn't capable of that which seems extremely odd. It's like it can only do one at a time.
Example
It currently seems like the unit will pitch and then when the pitching is done at whatever position, then the sway will abruptly kick in (or vice-versa). It reminds me of when people mimick a robot from the 1960s that can only move one body part or in one direction at a time or when people to the "robot dance."
Can others please confirm if this is true or not? I hope I'm wrong...



4. We should be able to define the following:
- max movement/angle
- max top speed
- max acceleration
...for each setting or at the very least individually for overall pitch and overall sway.
Example
I may want the unit to be able to move to it's furthest distance/angle as well as be able to hit it's top speed so it's more dramatic for when kids come over and play with it (especially on No Limits 2 rollercoaster game) but at the same time I'd like to lower the max acceleration so as to get less of a snappy feel since the kids are 3 and 7 years old and I don't like to see their head/neck snapping during some moments of the games.

I know the post-processing settings can kind of do this but they're not clearly defined in exactly what part of the unit's output is being changed / not changed.



5. I have a single Buttkicker Gamer 2 but it's too weak especially while there's movement from the NLM. I think the perfect solution for those only wanting 1 Buttkicker and using the NLM mount will be to get a Buttkicker Advance. Why?
- It's more powerful than the Gamer
- it comes with a clamp just like the Gamer therefore perfect for the NLM clamp-mount
- it's about 5 lbs, maybe 5.5, so it should be ok for mounting (the NLM says max 5 lbs)
- compared to the large Buttkicker, the Advance is less expensive, smaller, lighter, and comes with a mount, not to mention the larger one shouldn't even be clamped to the NLM if you were able to due to it's weight

I think the Buttkicker Advance will be a perfect companion to the NLM v3. I will be ordering one soon and report back here :)



P.S. If I'm wrong about point #s 2 & 3, I'll delete them so as not to spread false information.
Hi
Any update with the buttkicker advance?
Did you get one?
Is it worth the upgrade?
I’m using a gamer 2 and am considering upgrading
 
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Hi
Any update with the buttkicker advance?
Did you get one?
Is it worth the upgrade?
I’m using a gamer 2 and am considering upgrading
Hi Dan. I thought the BK Advance would be perfect because I thought it had a built in clamp-mount that would work basically the same as the BK Gamer's clamp-mount. I was wrong (the pics are so deceiving). What I thought was a clamp-mount is a hard peice of metal which doesn't move. I think it's made so that you can bolt the BK-A vertically instead of horizontally. I was frustrated when I excitedly first opened the BK-A and discovered it didn't have a clamp-mount.

BK4-4_4__23359.1499542743.jpg


So I have to figure out how to mount all my transducers (metal plates?). I just finished building my Simlab P1 cockpit so the transducer setup will take some time. Therefore, I cannot tell you how much better the BK-A is compared to the BK Gamer/Mini because I haven't really tried it yet.

I have 4 large BKs (2x Concert, 2x LFE), 1 medium BK (Advance), and 4x Clark Synthesis TST429 Platinums so it's going to be a while before I can get this stuff working.

My plan was to use the 1x BK-A on the NLM v3 mount since it seemed a perfect fit while being much more capable than the BK-G/M. Larger and more capable than the Gamer/Mini while still a) having a clamp-mount and b) being lightweight enough to mount to the NLM v3's mount...Then I found out it didn't have a clamp mount and therefore I would have to mount it like a regular large BK. If I have to do that, well, now I'm thinking if there's even a point in the BK-A compared to the large BKs. The smaller BK-A may be faster and therefore offer more fidelity/detail than the large BKs but I'm not sure. If I eventually discover that the BK-A offers no more detail/fidelity than the large BKs, then there's not really a point in me keeping it as it would then offer nothing over the large BK besides less expensive, lighter, and a little smaller (not that much smaller, half the height but about the same footprint).

I heard the Earthquake medium model (equivalent to the BK-A), the MQB1, is supposed to be very good and offer very good detail and power. I heard it's much faster and therefore more detailed/fidelic than the large Earthquake model (QB1). You should also look into the E-MQB1 if you're considering the BK-A.

Edit: Wow, in fact, now couldn't be a better time to buy the E-MQB1. It usually goes for around $150-$170 on Amazon. It's currently priced at about $125!
 
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Hello Guys,

a little bit off topic to be honest, but did any of you ever got this message within Platform Manager?

"Your device warranty status is not clear at the moment. It might be a simple mistake in serial number database. Please contact technical support to clarify the status"

The device is still connected to the computer and diagnostics run well. However there is no motion at all in any game. Hopefully somebody knows something about this error.

Sure, I have already contacted the support. However, I want to know if anybody else experienced this. I never used this device before and bought it with malfunction. I repaired the device by myself which was really hard. Now, due to the fact it is the first time it is running, I do not know if it is not working due to this error message or if it is still a problem with the hardware.
I can move motors correctly in Diagnostic tool... But no motion in games.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Hi Dan. I thought the BK Advance would be perfect because I thought it had a built in clamp-mount that would work basically the same as the BK Gamer's clamp-mount. I was wrong (the pics are so deceiving). What I thought was a clamp-mount is a hard peice of metal which doesn't move. I think it's made so that you can bolt the BK-A vertically instead of horizontally. I was frustrated when I excitedly first opened the BK-A and discovered it didn't have a clamp-mount.

View attachment 305845

So I have to figure out how to mount all my transducers (metal plates?). I just finished building my Simlab P1 cockpit so the transducer setup will take some time. Therefore, I cannot tell you how much better the BK-A is compared to the BK Gamer/Mini because I haven't really tried it yet.

I have 4 large BKs (2x Concert, 2x LFE), 1 medium BK (Advance), and 4x Clark Synthesis TST429 Platinums so it's going to be a while before I can get this stuff working.

My plan was to use the 1x BK-A on the NLM v3 mount since it seemed a perfect fit while being much more capable than the BK-G/M. Larger and more capable than the Gamer/Mini while still a) having a clamp-mount and b) being lightweight enough to mount to the NLM v3's mount...Then I found out it didn't have a clamp mount and therefore I would have to mount it like a regular large BK. If I have to do that, well, now I'm thinking if there's even a point in the BK-A compared to the large BKs. The smaller BK-A may be faster and therefore offer more fidelity/detail than the large BKs but I'm not sure. If I eventually discover that the BK-A offers no more detail/fidelity than the large BKs, then there's not really a point in me keeping it as it would then offer nothing over the large BK besides less expensive, lighter, and a little smaller (not that much smaller, half the height but about the same footprint).

I heard the Earthquake medium model (equivalent to the BK-A), the MQB1, is supposed to be very good and offer very good detail and power. I heard it's much faster and therefore more detailed/fidelic than the large Earthquake model (QB1). You should also look into the E-MQB1 if you're considering the BK-A.

Edit: Wow, in fact, now couldn't be a better time to buy the E-MQB1. It usually goes for around $150-$170 on Amazon. It's currently priced at about $125!
Ok thanks for the reply that’s a shame it doesn’t have a clamp
I will have a look at the earthquake
 
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If you're looking for something with a built in clamp, the Earthquake Shellshox may be your best bet. From the specs, it seems nearly the same if not the same as the MQB-1. The specs of these sound like they're either Buttkicker Advance level or sort of between the BK mini/gamer and Advance. It's difficult to know for sure.

I've seen wild prices for Earthquake Sound transducers like $300 for the MQB-1 somewhere and $125 somewhere else. The Shellshox comes with an amp, clamp, etc. so expect it to cost more than tbe $125 MQB-1.

I'm going to start looking into clamps. I'm really determined to attach the BK-A to the NLM v3's clamp-mount. There's gotta be a way.
 
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I finally got myself an NLR Motion v3 unit, and have started experimenting with the settings. But before I spend too much time on that, I want to make sure the seat is physically in the right position.

I've read that the center of grativy should be directly above the pivot point, and I'm wondering if this looks OK:
NLR_v3_b.jpg
 
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