DiRT Rally 2.0 My T300 FFB settings

[Case_]

In case anybody is interested, here are my FFB settings for DR2 on the T300 which I'm pretty satisfied with (see more below):

(Updated the image for the current state of the FFB in the game.)

Please note that if you raise the FFB gain on a T300 beyond the default 75 %, you really should be using the forced fan mode that keeps the fan running at all times (then again you should probably be using that mode even when not raising the gain).

I am using soft lock with the wheel set to 1080 degrees, but I have the driver hands disabled and only the virtual wheel is shown, because if I enable driver hands, the virtual wheel rotation doesn't match the real wheel (a bug, I assume).

As for the FFB settings themselves, they don't transform the FFB significantly, so the road noise is still quite low in the mix, but it is definitely there. I'm not a fan of those supposed XML "fixes", because from what I've tried, they introduce more issues than they solve (and I can come up with several reasons of why I think that is the result), no matter how you tweak them. I also have no problem feeling the suspension, wheel grip and all that without them (even though it definitely varies between cars - as it should). I would like the wheel friction to be higher for the wheel to not be as loose, but it seems to also hide detail in the FFB if you raise it, so I keep it low.

I'd certainly like the road detail to come out a bit more in the FFB, but other than that, I am very satisfied with how the FFB is and I think it's up there with the best and certainly far from "broken", "unplayable" or "non-existent", to quote a few descriptions I've seen. It is very nuanced and detailed, it just doesn't hit you over the head with the information it provides.

 

[Eckhart von Glan]

… but it just feels better to me.

and that nicely sums up all the lengthy ffb discussions we are having here at RD. Most of them respectful, like you guys now, some of them just … because guys cannot understand that it is really all down to: "but it just feels better to me".

 

[Case_]

Not all of it is down to "it just feels better to me".

 

[Eckhart von Glan]

agree, but unless we sit physically side by side at the same wheel, taking turns, comparing impressions etc. it will forever be close to impossible to put into words.

 

[Brandon Wright]

I didn't really look at the screenshot, given that the settings are for Fanatec, but I would certainly not recommend setting the friction values to 0, especially not the tire friction, because that essentially means removing understeer/grip loss FFB.

I know on my T300 I do not like those settings to be high because it makes everything feel numb. The lower they are the more info I get from the wheel, which seems backwards but that's how it is on my end. Same on Dirt 1, I think I have the two friction settings at 0 on that game because anything higher than that and the wheel loses feeling.

 

[Case_]

I never noticed these settings making everything feel numb, but, again, they are (or at least the tyre friction is) quite important for feeling the grip, which is a common complain about the FFB.

They are also the main reason why running DR game with damper at 0 is not a good idea.

 

[RasmusP]

I never noticed these settings making everything feel numb, but, again, they are (or at least the tyre friction is) quite important for feeling the grip, which is a common complain about the FFB.

They are also the main reason why running DR game with damper at 0 is not a good idea.

I still need to check if without tyre friction, it's possible to pull the handbrake, slide into a hairpin, let the wheel fly into opposite lock, catch it, slide around and turn it back to go straight at the exit.
With your settings everything feels nice (I barely play Dirt 2.0 but it felt great the last time I had a quick go ).
But this wasn't possible...

Anyway I'm repeating myself here. Need to put the wheel in front of be and just drive again...

 

[Case_]

(I still don't really understand why you want to willingly let go of the wheel and let the car do whatever, tbh. But I mean, it's your choice of course.)

 

[Marc Collins]

(I still don't really understand why you want to willingly let go of the wheel and let the car do whatever, tbh. But I mean, it's your choice of course.)

Because that's how you do a handbrake hairpin in a real car. Impossible to manually turn the wheel fast enough, or, you would get your wrists injured/bumble the manoeuvre trying to slow or stop the wheel from turning under its natural momentum.

 

[Case_]

You should tell that to rally drivers, then.

 

[RasmusP]

Because that's how you do a handbrake hairpin in a real car. Impossible to manually turn the wheel fast enough, or, you would get your wrists injured/bumble the manoeuvre trying to slow or stop the wheel from turning under its natural momentum.

You should tell that to rally drivers, then.

We went over this a few pages back. With 4-wheel drive and in the dirt it's a totally different thing.
I was just sad, that I couldn't do it on Deutschland tarmac stages with a 900° rwd car.

Codemasters didn't really get this specific thing right. But I'm curious if it becomes possible to do without friction settings and/or with damper set to 0.

Disnt test it yet. Sorry to bring it back up

 

[Marc Collins]

You should tell that to rally drivers, then.

A lot of rally driving is allowing the wheel to seesaw based on its own momentum and then knowing when (and being co-ordinated enough) to grab the wheel and reassert control. It's called "not fighting the car" and it's why it is so important to set-up the car for a corner properly (e.g., Scandinavian flick). If you fail to adequately prepare, it's often too late to correct things with the steering wheel or pedals and off the course you go carried away by the momentum of the vehicle... Same things happens in regular winter street driving in places that get "real" snow.

 

[Case_]

OK.

 

[Case_]

BTW, I think this thread outlived its purpose and has been completely off topic and pointless for weeks now (mirroring the DR community in both aspects I guess), so unless something changes in DR2, I will not post here anymore. Just a heads up. I would just lock it, but I don't think I can.

If anybody wants my help or advice regarding FFB (not just) in DR2, I'm sure you'll figure out a way (and by all means, feel free to do so).

 

[RKip455]

FFB Setting - Softlock

Why do you have soflock at 150? What does softlock really do?

 

[lyldz]

this settings is good for my thrustmaster ts pc
thanks for that buddy

Just picked this up for $23 Steam sale. Graphics wow, very fun game. Lots of good FFB info here, thank you all.
Martin settings are working well, a tad too heavy. I did have a question for any other Fanatec users, what settings are you running on the wheelbase?

On a side note, the menu music is fantastic, calm and relaxing. I wish ACC went this route instead of the heavy guitar.

Edit:
After a few hours of experiment I've settled on a responsive, light FFB that works well for me. Also very nice I can use the Heusinkveld sequential as a handbrake. Here's what I'm running the usual ffb disclaimer applies as what feels good to me may be too light for you.

View attachment 333050

Wheelbase settings
SEN 540
FF 095
FOR 050
SPR 030
FEI 050

 

[Rob]

TX wheel here. This post, and specifically this author, is a Godsend. I like to feel detail with no artificial force. I raced back in the day, and some wheels you would pray for this level of detail. Mr. Fiala, debt of gratitude.

ps - the various mutations were a waste of time. I have a low end system, but still manage iRacing, Assetto, AMS, and Race Room, with Rf2 occasionally.

It's not always about the subtleties, which I can and have discovered in other SIMSs, but the use of your hours of research to reach a similar conclusion as would I. And for that I'm grateful.

(And I will take this opportunity to defend the haters. What would the world be without debate, as long as no violence is incited.)

 

[edmuss]

Very casual sim driver but do enjoy dirt rally (stemming from too many hours playing colin mcrae back at uni!)
Registered an account just to say thank you for the settings for the wheel, only recently picked up DR2.0 with a tx and foolishly followed other advice on the net about setting up the FFB. I'm guessing that since most of the tweaks were from before the FFB got patched then they aren't necessarily applicable now.

Reset it all and followed your settings (bar master gain @ 80%) and it's completely different, can feel everything exactly as my inexperienced hands would expect and car control is so much more intuitive, previously it was just disconnected from everything that was going on. Not exactly a challenging task but two days ago, the first historic event championship (New Zealand and Spain) I was placing last three positions consistently, played through it tonight (note I didn't play yesterday) and finished the whole lot in first place with best part of a minute lead.

I can't say whether or not it's accurate having no real world experience but it feels damn good to me and the textures of the surfaces are there, plenty of information coming through the wheel to let me know what's happening. I dare say some might still disagree but hey ho...

@Martin Fiala, thank you so much

 

[Case_]

@edmuss Glad it worked for you!

 

[David Faraday]

Just a bumpity bump. Are the settings in the OP still relevant? I haven't really kept up with DR2.0 but I will be doing the 2021 RDRC and I'm not completely happy with my t300 setup as yet.

 

[Case_]

I was still using more or less the same settings the last time I played DR2. Which was a while back, but I don't think there were any updates since then.