DiRT Rally 2.0 My T300 FFB settings

In case anybody is interested, here are my FFB settings for DR2 on the T300 which I'm pretty satisfied with (see more below):

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dirtrally2_2019_03_09_01_47_59_721.png

dirtrally2_2019_08_15_00_46_19_482.png

(Updated the image for the current state of the FFB in the game.)

Please note that if you raise the FFB gain on a T300 beyond the default 75 %, you really should be using the forced fan mode that keeps the fan running at all times (then again you should probably be using that mode even when not raising the gain).

I am using soft lock with the wheel set to 1080 degrees, but I have the driver hands disabled and only the virtual wheel is shown, because if I enable driver hands, the virtual wheel rotation doesn't match the real wheel (a bug, I assume).

As for the FFB settings themselves, they don't transform the FFB significantly, so the road noise is still quite low in the mix, but it is definitely there. I'm not a fan of those supposed XML "fixes", because from what I've tried, they introduce more issues than they solve (and I can come up with several reasons of why I think that is the result), no matter how you tweak them. I also have no problem feeling the suspension, wheel grip and all that without them (even though it definitely varies between cars - as it should). I would like the wheel friction to be higher for the wheel to not be as loose, but it seems to also hide detail in the FFB if you raise it, so I keep it low.

I'd certainly like the road detail to come out a bit more in the FFB, but other than that, I am very satisfied with how the FFB is and I think it's up there with the best and certainly far from "broken", "unplayable" or "non-existent", to quote a few descriptions I've seen. It is very nuanced and detailed, it just doesn't hit you over the head with the information it provides.
 
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It's an old thread and I didn't have time to read more than a couple pages but they get into a lengthy discussion about having spring/damper at 100% for rF2. After only two pages of reading it seems they do have an effect but I'm not sure if they did further testing and what the results were. Definitely gets some gears in my head turning since I used to have some odd FFB problems, so now I'm wondering if just turning up spring and damper would have made everything ok.

https://forum.studio-397.com/index....-the-key-to-being-in-the-zone-d.42931/page-45
 
Hmm, can't say I feel any difference between damper at 100 and at 0. In rF2, that is.

Based on the little bit I read, and on how some other games work, I think you would also need to adjust some settings in the game to feel a difference. For example if you had your profiler at 100 damper but the game at 0 damper you would get 0 damper in game because the game setting overrides the profiler setting. So there may be a setting in rF2 that allows/blocks the damping setting from the profiler.
 
Based on the little bit I read, and on how some other games work, I think you would also need to adjust some settings in the game to feel a difference. For example if you had your profiler at 100 damper but the game at 0 damper you would get 0 damper in game because the game setting overrides the profiler setting. So there may be a setting in rF2 that allows/blocks the damping setting from the profiler.
But if you run with the default rF2 config files then it shouldn't make a difference then.. But I doubt @balage06 edited some dampening into his files?

I played around a lot with my rF2 files but never came across a dampening setting. At least not that I'd remember...
 
But if you run with the default rF2 config files then it shouldn't make a difference then.. But I doubt @balage06 edited some dampening into his files?

I played around a lot with my rF2 files but never came across a dampening setting. At least not that I'd remember...

I was shooting in the dark. I only have a few hours in rF2 and that was years ago so I don't know what the option are, I just know that's how it works in some other games so I was thinking out loud. In the article I linked they discuss the FFB Filter and FFB Multiplier so I thought there might be damping settings in there somewhere.
 
I made a completely fresh 'player' folder in rF2 and it turns out either I was using some custom FFB settings and I completely forgot about it, or something else went wrong, because now the feedback is exactly like it should be (and the wheel's weight is unaffected by the CP settings).
 
BTW, if you want an interesting tweak to rF2 FFB, I'd suggest experimenting with the "steering torque sensitivity" setting in the controller.json files. It has transformed the FFB in rF2 for me as I have always had issues with the low forces being too low and high forces too high on most cars. You can kinda equalize that with this setting (but you'll have to adjust the FFB multiplier accordingly).
 
(And I still maintain the DR2 FFB is pretty much on par with rF2 or any other sim.)

LOL...not even in the same universe as rF2. And if you are suggesting that all sims and simcade titles have more or less the same quality of FFB, you just discredited yourself out of any intelligent conversations about this topic.

I would be happy (at least initially) if I could get it to Wreckfest levels on the full variety of surfaces. It is painfully obvious that the weight-shifting of the vehicle is the only sophisticated feedback. The surface and its interplay with the suspension is the truly mediocre (non-existent) part.
 
Sigh.
And you know what? I think I'm perfectly fine with having myself discredited from any intelligent conversation about this topic if this is what the "intelligent conversation" boils down to.

(I just wish people would conduct their "intelligent conversation" elsewhere, as in not in this thread at least.)
 
Just picked this up for $23 Steam sale. Graphics wow, very fun game. Lots of good FFB info here, thank you all.
Martin settings are working well, a tad too heavy. I did have a question for any other Fanatec users, what settings are you running on the wheelbase?

On a side note, the menu music is fantastic, calm and relaxing. I wish ACC went this route instead of the heavy guitar.

Edit:
After a few hours of experiment I've settled on a responsive, light FFB that works well for me. Also very nice I can use the Heusinkveld sequential as a handbrake. Here's what I'm running the usual ffb disclaimer applies as what feels good to me may be too light for you.

Screenshot (5).png


Wheelbase settings
SEN 540
FF 095
FOR 050
SPR 030
FEI 050
 
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Well Fanatec wheels are stronger than my T300, so I would certainly expect those settings to feel heavier. Thanks for sharing your settings, though I'm not sure if Fanatec owners will find them in this thread that's specifically aimed at T300.
 
I have the csw 2.5:

I use 50-75%"FF", depending on the car and also on the degree I use.
Less degrees = stronger ffb input for whatever reason (same with the g27 in AC, rF2 etc etc).

I use between 280-500 degrees. No virtual wheel and simply how I have the most fun with the car.
Tried calibrating and using realistic degree but then I like to use my McLaren GT3 rim so I'm locked at fully twisted arms :p
I love setting the two clutch paddles as handbrake so I can handbrake with either hand.
Foot clutch is for clutch kick.

Spring, dpr, for all to 100%, Dri -4 to -1 depending on the car and how I feel.

Having no vibrating rim or pedals, no shock/abs.

FEI I use 80 or 90. 100 is too rough for my liking.

Did I forget anything?

I use exactly Martin's settings :)
 
Just picked this up for $23 Steam sale. Graphics wow, very fun game. Lots of good FFB info here, thank you all.
Martin settings are working well, a tad too heavy. I did have a question for any other Fanatec users, what settings are you running on the wheelbase?

On a side note, the menu music is fantastic, calm and relaxing. I wish ACC went this route instead of the heavy guitar.

Edit:
After a few hours of experiment I've settled on a responsive, light FFB that works well for me. Also very nice I can use the Heusinkveld sequential as a handbrake. Here's what I'm running the usual ffb disclaimer applies as what feels good to me may be too light for you.

View attachment 333050

Wheelbase settings
SEN 540
FF 095
FOR 050
SPR 030
FEI 050

Can I ask what the logic/explanation is for zeroing-out the wheel and tire friction? Not disagreeing, just trying to understand what all these settings actually do!
 
I didn't really look at the screenshot, given that the settings are for Fanatec, but I would certainly not recommend setting the friction values to 0, especially not the tire friction, because that essentially means removing understeer/grip loss FFB.
 
WHEEL FRICTION
This scales the constant friction/weight of the steering device.
 TYRE FRICTION
This scales the dynamic friction of the tyre. This is the resistance of the tyre to turn.

The previous page here also has a link that explains what all the settings do.
I do not like the way either friction option feels so I don’t use them.
 
Wheelbase settings
SEN 540
FF 095
FOR 050
SPR 030
FEI 050
May I ask why you're putting FOR to 50?
This, after my testing, is simply the main ffb channel so putting it to 50 gives you only 50% of ffb strength.

Since clipping happens at the output of the game, reducing FOR will only scale down already clipping signals. (if you have clipping).

Also why do you out spr to 30? Afaik there's no signal sent to the spring channel in any current sim.

You forgot to list your dpr (damper) btw. Did you reduce it too? The wheel friction and Tyre friction settings go into the damper channel afaik.

If you reduce all single - channels by that much, you could also put FOR to 100, spr to 60 and FF to 50.
Resulting in the same ffb overall.

Just asking and giving my input. Maybe things are different or you have a good reason for it! :)
 
Sun is just rising here in the states at work currently. Tonight I will post all the settings.
I’ve always gravitated toward very light subtle ffb effects, less is more style of tuning.
Force has always been an odd one with Fanatec the more I increase it the more numb or “muddy” the rim becomes. With FOR lowered and overall in game increased the signal feels more clear, subtle and pronounced.
I understand I do things backwards as we’ve always been told 100 on the base, tune lower in game, I’m losing valuable ffb effects, but it just feels better to me.
 

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