Gents,

after playing on a wheelstand setup for quite some years, I decided to upgrade to a proper rig. I was always hesitant to litter the living room witha full blown rig, so made do with a GT Omega "Classic".

The whole journey started for me with a PS3, GranTurismo 5, a 100" front projection home theater setup and a Thrustmaster T500RS with TH8A. Later I switched to a PC with R3E and AC, modified the pedals with stiffer Mardo Media springs, upgraded to a TM Sparco 383mod, added a Nextion display and braced the wheelstand including Sofa hook-up.

Now playing mostly ACC and got a taste of what it is like with a proper rig and DD wheel which left me wanting.
I guess it is time for a radical change....and even got permission from the missus. :D:thumbsup:

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I did have a play around with the in game dynamic damping last night and I've ended up moving that down from 100 to 0. The negative is that it makes the wheel lighter at low speeds. The positive was that I could feel the onset of a slide slightly earlier.
I was optimizing my seating position a bit more after I tilted the seat. Changed the height of the pedal tray about 3 cm. Much better now!

As I was test-driving anyway I thought I'd give your advice a go and reduced ingame dynamic damping to 0. Did a few laps, changed back, did a few laps more.
I would say that the change is very very subtle. Wheel is a tad lighter at rolling speeds. Not sure I really felt the change in fidelity otherwise as you described. Maybe I am not perceptive enough or my settings do not bring out the feeling as much as on your setup. I kept ingame dynamic damping at 0 in the end. Always better not to dial in something if it's not really needed.
 
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This setup looks killer man! Great work. This is getting me super pumped for my sim-lab setup to arrive.

Interesting comment about the grounding. I never knew that was an issue. I'm interested to see what your final solution ends up being.
 
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This setup looks killer man! Great work. This is getting me super pumped for my sim-lab setup to arrive.

Interesting comment about the grounding. I never knew that was an issue. I'm interested to see what your final solution ends up being.
Thanks! Really pleased how it turned out to be. Now I just need to find more time to use it actually. :O_o:
Looking forward to the christmas break with soem time to do some sim racing.

Regarding the grounding I simply changed my shoes to be honest, issue solved. Some others report bad grounding for some components, for me it was simply static from rubber soles. :roflmao:

BTW...
Upgraded to a Aukey 7 port USB -Hub (good recommendation from the forums!), received new computer mouse these days (Logitech G 203) and looking for a (wired) gaming keyboard at the moment. Most likely it will be a Havit or Sharkoon with RGB lighting and blue switches.

Have to still tackle cable management witb some braided sleeve. Still looking for a good 6+ socket power connector to bolt to the rig. ...and mulling over adding a buttkicker to the rig....

At the moment I use a surplus Teufel Radio 3Sixty as loudspeakers instead of a headset. Will look into getting a new headset in time. Thinking Sennheiser at the moment.

So still some optimizations down the road. :geek:
 
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Still looking for a good 6+ socket power connector to bolt to the rig.

Rob, I'm using this one : Amazon UK

Works well for me with a caveat. It doesn't like being powered on first and then having the SC2 power supplies plugged in.

I leave it powered up 24/7 with both SC2 PSUs plugged in and permanently on standby (blue LEDs on) and it's been really good.
 
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Cheers Paul! Did you somehow mount it to the rig? I was thinking of bolting it nto the lower profile, but couldn't find one that provides suitable holes to do that. So that surge protection is not of much use on yours it seems. I have the same issues, but here in my appartment the fuse blows everytime I try to switch on the complete rig. For now it stays on standy 24/7 as yours.
The best I could find in what I would look for is this (but not enough outlets):
Ideally it would also have a network connector on the extension. Well, I know...too many wishes at the same time. :D

P.S.: I might need a couple of travel plugs to use your type of connector. ;) :roflmao:
 
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Cheers Paul! Did you somehow mount it to the rig? I was thinking of bolting it nto the lower profile, but couldn't find one that provides suitable holes to do that. So that surge protection is not of much use on yours it seems. I have the same issues, but here in my appartment the fuse blows everytime I try to switch on the complete rig. For now it stays on standy 24/7 as yours.
The best I could find in what I would look for is this (but not enough outlets):
Ideally it would also have a network connector on the extension. Well, I know...too many wishes at the same time. :D

P.S.: I might need a couple of travel plugs to use your type of connector. ;) :roflmao:


Doh... sorry mate. I completely forgot you'll need EU sockets :O_o:

I don't have my strip mounted to my rig but I just checked and could do it if needed.
They will usually have a couple of mounting holes on the rear casing and M4 button head bolts are a really good fit.

It's really hard to find a strip with everything all in one place. All the ones I've seen that have RJ45 and USB connections seem to always be 3 gang strips. All the six gang strips have USB but no ethernet :mad:
 
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You could order some profile precut to fit between the side frames (500mm) near the front end low and in front of the pedal deck side pieces. Either 40x40 or a 40x80 depending on what else you are mounting to it. Otherwise the pedal deck sides have some recessed bolt holes that could allow you to bolt straight into threaded profile, or bolt to corner braces if you used lock nuts. That should give plenty of room to mount a power strip.
 
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@EsxPaul no worries! Good point regarding the rear mounting holes. Will keep that in mind. It is exactly as you said, it is not easy to find an optimal solution.

@RCHeliguy thanks for the pointers. The initial idea was to mount it to the inner side of the main beams below the pedal deck (since it is mounted pretty high). Depends on the dimensions of the socket strip of course.
At the moment I find it quite convinient to have the open access to the front of the rig....to do the hoovering. :roflmao:
But good pointsmade! Cheers.
 
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But your rig is on casters. Couldn't you could just roll it out of the way when you vacuum?
At the moment, yes. The plan was to have the casters mounted AND the P1-X feet. This way I would have it on the P1-X feet and be able to lower onto the casters. Unfortunately the lowest setting for the P1-X feet is too high for the casters to have contact to the floor. Plus the work to raise / lower the rig is a bit too much to do on a regular basis. Miscalculation on my part. :roflmao:
I will remove the casters .... was too lazy until now to be honest. :cool: The plan now is to raise the rig as much that I can vacuum easily also below the rig.
 
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So far VERY happy with the result. Seating position is very comfortable and right how I wanted it to be. Playing mostly ACC at the moment and enjoying every single moment. What a difference using a proper rig...

For folks looking into buying the SPEED1 from SimLab, be aware that the seat is very narrow around the hip. I am 6ft4 at 85kg and JUST fitting in. For example the RSeat S1 seat is significantly wider there. Maybe the at the moment unavailable SPEED2 is more suited to "normal" body sizes.

I have ordered a Sharkoon PureWriter TKL RGB for the rig as I am very happy with my regular Havit HV-KB395L at the moment for my desk computer (same OEM). Just going to try the non-numblock version with Kailh red instead of the clicky blue switches on the Rig.
Also on order: Bachmann power strip, I finally found one to my liking. I will mount the 19" power strip below the pedal tray with the sockets facing down. Will see how that goes.

I also reused the Nextion 4.3" on the P1-X and made a simple dash to show laptimes. Not mounted to the rig at the moment, still thinking about how to permanently mount (double-sided sticky, bolting,..).
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I raised the rig now and removed the rollers. Now I am able to vacuum without probs. Also since I am using PTFE feet inserts instead of the standard rubber ones I can move the rig to some extent anyway.
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Also in the process of optimizing the keyboard tray. I have the SimLab ordered one, but it is still not how I want it to be. Thinking about cutting a small piece of leftover 40x40 to about 10cm and place it inbetween the upright an the joint. I want to bring the tray more towards me, but still able to swing in and out.
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Now I am still mulling over tactile. For starters I thought about using one tactile transducer. From my HomeCinema setup I am used to having that sensation for movies. There I mounted an I-Beam directly to the sofa. I'd like to do similar with the SimRig.
I reckon that if I mount a BK Gamer or Concert to the aluminium rig, it will not do much. My brother has a Gamer 2 attached to his RSeat and it is resonating/vibrating as hell. Aluminium should be less suited than steel (damping), so not a good idea to mount to the profiles, right? So thinking about either directly mounting to the seat or to the underlying structure. The second option will need some decoupling/isolation from the rest of the rig.
I also saw a vibration/transducer mat for seats, but not really convinced this will perform as I want it to. And quite pricey for what it is.
I browsed the threads in this forum, but haven't found a solution fitting what I had in mind.
=> Any ideas here guys?

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I think at a minimum you will want one transducer mounted to the underside of your pedal deck and another under your seat near the back of the seat.

You can easily mount any flat transducer under the pedal deck securing a transducer diagonally using two T-nuts.

Are you saying you have a BK Gamer? If so I would mount it to the rear most frame behind the seat. If you don't already own one, then get a normal flat transducer like an Aura Pro. They are only $50 and work well with minimal power ( 50-100W ). Ideally you would mount it directly to the underside of the seat with 4 holes. just reinforce the inside with washers or a thin plate.
 
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I think at a minimum you will want one transducer mounted to the underside of your pedal deck and another under your seat near the back of the seat.

You can easily mount any flat transducer under the pedal deck securing a transducer diagonally using two T-nuts.

Are you saying you have a BK Gamer? If so I would mount it to the rear most frame behind the seat. If you don't already own one, then get a normal flat transducer like an Aura Pro. They are only $50 and work well with minimal power ( 50-100W ). Ideally you would mount it directly to the underside of the seat with 4 holes. just reinforce the inside with washers or a thin plate.
Thank you for your tips.

Indeed I do not have a BK Gamer 2. My brother has one installed on his Rig. I would prefer a unit which can be mounted to flat surfaces, as you suggested. Will have a look at the Aura Pro. Thought about the BK Mini concert initially. Thought similarly about mounting to the seat. Have to speak to my brother again as he did that on his previous GT Omega Rig. Not sure he was happy with that solution as he did differently this time on his RSeat.

I want to induce as less vibration into the aluminium frame as possible. Not sure about the pedal tray coming from this train of thought. What would be the benefit of having one at the pedals, too?

Cheers.
 
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Another update. Manged to re-engineer the keyboard tray as I hinted at before. Works really well and I am pleased so far. Cut a leftover 40x40 to 10cm length and threaded the center hole on one side. Needed to corner brackets to prevent torsion if you wondered.
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I also did a small, but important mod to the mouse pad. Originally it came as to be mounted with the shorter side attached to the profile. The problem is that you cannot comfortably rest your wrist on the too small side of the mouse pad. Hence I drilled an additional hole and attached it to the rig with the longer side.
Purchased a cheap but good mouse mat, too. Now much better indeed! Should be standard this way.
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As I am not a headphones guy I want to play with speakers most of the time. Before investing in a new loudspeaker set I tried to use my existing Network Radio for that purpose. It is a Teufel Radio 3Sixty. It has an aux input (3.5mm) and can be fully remote controlled via app from android and Win10 devices over WiFi.
I knew it was a good investment to buy even a second one on sale the other day! I can recommend it 100% for radio, streaming and now also gaming purposes. Such a fine unit. Both in audio quality, versality and looks. At the moment it is resting on top of the integrated monitor mount. Might fabricate a shelf to bring it more to the center...
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Thank you for your tips.

Indeed I do not have a BK Gamer 2. My brother has one installed on his Rig. I would prefer a unit which can be mounted to flat surfaces, as you suggested. Will have a look at the Aura Pro. Thought about the BK Mini concert initially. Thought similarly about mounting to the seat. Have to speak to my brother again as he did that on his previous GT Omega Rig. Not sure he was happy with that solution as he did differently this time on his RSeat.

I want to induce as less vibration into the aluminium frame as possible. Not sure about the pedal tray coming from this train of thought. What would be the benefit of having one at the pedals, too?

Cheers.

What is the benefit of having one at the pedals? Immersion. ( bumps, front end slide effects and a bit of rpm) I'd also suggest one on the the side of the wheel support on the vertical riser mounted near the top to add additional tactile, so when you reach for a shifter it is vibrating with the engine rpm and to add some road texture for games without much in their FFB. The seat would be bumps, rear end slide, gear change thunk and maybe a bit of rpm.

When I turn on a car I can feel a lumpy idle throughout. It would feel dead to me if the pedal deck had no tactile.
 
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I love what you've done with the keyboard tray @DrRob :thumbsup:

Damnit, I thought I was done with modifications but I'm going to have to try this for myself. I've always been irritated by having to lean to the side whenever I type and you've come up with a great solution. Thank you :)
 
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What is the benefit of having one at the pedals? Immersion. ( bumps, front end slide effects and a bit of rpm) I'd also suggest one on the the side of the wheel support on the vertical riser mounted near the top to add additional tactile, so when you reach for a shifter it is vibrating with the engine rpm and to add some road texture for games without much in their FFB. The seat would be bumps, rear end slide, gear change thunk and maybe a bit of rpm.

When I turn on a car I can feel a lumpy idle throughout. It would feel dead to me if the pedal deck had no tactile.
Thanks again. I see. Haven't thought about multichannel use so far and what it could add to the experience. I would think different channels could be managed then with SimHub, which I use for the Nextion anyway.
Considering the Rig is residing in our living room I also have to think about not overdoing it. Maybe I will start with one and see if I can and should add more. I am sure the heart will say "do it" while the head will tell me to wait and see what the wife says. :roflmao:
 
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@DrRob, looks stunning, will probably borrow your idea on keyboard tray extension when my P1-X arrives.
Question on casters, this is what I ordered instead of feet, any disadvantage of just using them, did you replace them just to get extra clearance for vacuuming or something else.
 
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@DrRob, looks stunning, will probably borrow your idea on keyboard tray extension when my P1-X arrives.
Question on casters, this is what I ordered instead of feet, any disadvantage of just using them, did you replace them just to get extra clearance for vacuuming or something else.

I know you didn't ask me, but I've accidentally played with my retractable casters down and didn't notice any difference. If you are on carpet I can't imagine it moving at all. I haven't tried on a harder surface.
 
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