Gents,

after playing on a wheelstand setup for quite some years, I decided to upgrade to a proper rig. I was always hesitant to litter the living room witha full blown rig, so made do with a GT Omega "Classic".

The whole journey started for me with a PS3, GranTurismo 5, a 100" front projection home theater setup and a Thrustmaster T500RS with TH8A. Later I switched to a PC with R3E and AC, modified the pedals with stiffer Mardo Media springs, upgraded to a TM Sparco 383mod, added a Nextion display and braced the wheelstand including Sofa hook-up.

Now playing mostly ACC and got a taste of what it is like with a proper rig and DD wheel which left me wanting.
I guess it is time for a radical change....and even got permission from the missus. :D:thumbsup:

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Guys, this is really an interesting discussion, but could we stay a bit more on topic please?
Otherwise this build thread will be hard to follow for anybody interested.
Not saying I do not appreciate your feedback and pointers! On the contrary.

Cheers
 
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Decided to go for a different approach regading the computer case. Instead of minimizing the size I went for a midi tower with maximum configurability. The Raijintek Ophium M Evo.
Looks smart, hopefully also smart to equip. Note the clever solution for the GFX card: It is stored in a separate part of the case and connected to the mainboard via a riser cable!


The plan is to secure the case to the SimLab shelf on the rig via bolting. Will see if that works as intended...

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All the other components still on order:
 
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SimLab P1-X is still delayed. I was told the first P1-Xs will be shipped on Monday. So hopefully mine will be with me next week and I can finally start the real build.

Meanwhile I decided to push the new PC build and went on with it this weekend. Means I dropped these into the new case:
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End result after 2 hours (no rush) was:
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Got everything connected, Windows 10 home license from Ebay, drivers installed and also Steam and ACC.
First run in ACC with previous GFX card and settings gives me the possibility to run now all 50 cars on Spa instead of max. 15 with 60FPS/Hz locked.
Satisfied with the improvement so far.

Have a few gripes with the components though:
- Case is not as cleverly build as anticipated. The lower case fan is really restricted by the PCIe cable and because of the screws to secure the fan the dust protector cannot put on properly. SOme sharp edges cave me cuts in my fingers. Side aly covers with rediculously fiddly screws.
- The Enermax Aqua 240 does not seem to be better than my aircooler on the i5 in terms of cooling ratio and is noisier in return on full song. Might exchange the stock fans with two 120mm BeQuit Silent Wings 3 shortly.
- The Enermax Aqua 240 is supposed to be compatible with the MSI mainboard LED feature, but cannot be connected. The mainboard has two 12V sockets for that, while the Enermax needs 5V. Will probably contact customer service on how thats supposed to fit, but as I will change the fans anyway this might be for naught.
 
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Parcels arrived today! Wooohoooo!
Four separate parcels with 67kg overall. :geek:
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Work in progress. Not a straight forward build really. Finished up for today. Will continue tomorrow.
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Noticed that the P1-X feet and Keyboard tray are missing from this delivery... :cautious:
Email to customer suport sent.
 
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Build of these SimLab / SRG / etc rigs seems to me exactly like building a "Dold-mechatronik" -rig; you get a pile of aluminum profiles of different lengths, along with various types of connectors. Only thing different (I imagine) is a comprehensive set of instructions. Ofcourse the ordering process is probably also quite a bit more straightforward.

Anyway, looks good, the black anodized parts do have a nicer look to them. Being "Preisbewusst" as I am, I went with standard silver colored profiles from Dold for my first simrig build (which is still work in progress). :)
 
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@RCR_Finn I was also thinking of using standard aluminium profile from e.g. Motedis and build my own rig. There are lots of possibilities and build instructions out there. I mean the principle is the same, really. The difference are the CNC-machined parts SimLabs uses as connectors. These make a difference to me.
Beside that I have enough engineering work going on with my hobby car. ;-) Was hence not keen on taking my time to engineer a rig of my own. I wanted a ready to go and proven solution.

Anyway...
With the P1-X I will for sure have work for three to four evenings until I can start work on the ergonomics, cable management and of course first spin with ACC.

Looking at the work in progress this morning I might look into drilling additional holes into the seat-brackets to give the seat more lean back. I reckon that I could drill a third hole in the rear part of the bracket. There should be enough leeway for the seat to go down a bit in the bum area. Will check that.
 
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Only thing different (I imagine) is a comprehensive set of instructions.
Forgot to give a feedback on your comment: None whatsoever in the package. You can download some non-up-to- date schematics from their website. As I said...not straightforward. ;)
You have to determine what goes where with how many connectors, which bolts, etc. There is a lot of freedom there...and possibilities. :D

Three examples of hiccups so far.
  • I ordered additional washers beforehand, since I knew SimLab doesn't provide any (there are a ~ 10 overall, granted). Washers should always be used if possible from a mechanical perspective, at least this is my understanding. Washers for aesthetic reasons was already mentioned by Barry in his build video.
  • For the seat-to-seat slider connection I used different bolts, since the ones provided where too short so that the locking nut would not lock at all. Fortunately there are enough standard M8 bolts in the overall set.
  • The Heusinkveld pedals are bolted down with smallish M4 bolts (IIRC), whereas the pedal base plate from SimLab is optimized for M6/M8 bolting. No suitable washers provided. Will pick up some today.
 
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The Sprint pedals use M5 bolts. I think I used 12mm long bolts with a couple washers so the bolts didn't bottom out. The original P1 had two 40x40 pieces that could be moved to fit. I replaced those with a single 40x120 and the 1st and 3rd holes line up with the brakes holes.

I was s bit surprised to see the P1-X having a 40x80 in back where the brakes attach and 40x160 in front where you put your feet.

I used washers as spacers only when needed. If you use washers in the corner braces it takes away some of their adjustability because the bolt heads interfere with each other. In some cases I used M8 button head bolts for more clearance. I've never had these M8 bolts come loose even with transducers vibrating, the NLRv3 motion and having my rig on wheels so that I'm pulling at it when I move it.

I just tested the frame corner bolts around the seat that I first set in February and they were rock solid. I tried to tighten them a bit and couldn't get them to budge. I think the way the T-bolts work the compression fit keeps everything tight.

The one type of washer I did use were these lock washers.

They are great if you have a longer bolt and are running a regular nut. I have lock nuts too, but they are a pain and wear out if you are loosening them and retightening them a lot like I've been doing.
 
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@RCHeliguy You are correct with the M5 bolts, the Heusinkveld website gives the hint. Was just a bit surprised by these thin, long bolts taking up bending loads when nearly all other bolting is M8.

On the pedal tray I use an additional sliding tray from SimLab with a thick, solid aly plate. When you see Barrys video of the P1-X upgrade he also flips the pedal tray around. ;)

I used washers so far on the corner brackets. I position the bolts to utmost outward position anyway to have a better clearance for bolting. The plastic caps fit even then. The washers ensure a better bolt head contact and can bridge a larger gap. I am an engineer, so washers are a must. :roflmao:

Good to hear that those bolts stay tight even after months and vibrations! Thanks for the feedback! The rig feels rock solid overall I have to say even after only a quarter of the build finished.

Cheers, Rob
 
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I don't know how being an engineer = washers. I'm an engineer too. I even had a metal fabricated product in production a number of years back for working on slalom skiing form.

What I learned with RC Helicopters is that some things are essential and other things surprise you. I used blue and red loctite on almost all every bolt on all of my helis except my Henseliet TDR's. The engineer who designed them used higher spec bolts than most companies and his instructions only specified a few places to use loctite. I followed the instructions and never had an issue with bolts coming loose. The number of threads combined with the compression fit with CF sandwiched between parts kept them from coming loose. Other people wouldn't believe him and still used loctite everywhere. I assume you might fall into that camp.

Not arguing with you about how you build your rig. You make it yours by building it the way that you like :)
 
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There are various reasons to use washers, @RCHeliguy . I also use Loctite to secure bolts on my hobby car, not on the Rig though. Usually at locations where I cannot use locking nuts for example, but they shall not come loose due to vibration (suspension bits for example). On other bolting connections I use lubricants. Really depends on the application.

Did some progress today. Not there yet, but got a good seating position dialed in. Will test in due time. TBC.
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This morning I mounted the ultrawide to the integrated monitor mount. Wifey lent a hand. Connected everything and did a test run.
Everything works as it should. Sooo much fun taking the AMG GT3 for a spin in ACC.
So much more feeling for the car with the new pedals and the wheel base compared to my T500 setup!

Still fiddling with the settings tho. Currently using @EsxPaul Simucube settings, but reduced torque. Heusinkveld released a generic ACC profile, which works really well.
Modified the brake pedal to the softest rubber combo to allow for more pedal travel.

Next will be computer tray, emergency switch, keyboard tray, P1-X feet and of cousre cable management. Will purchase some new cables and other bits. All missing cover caps will go on the rig last.
Currently thinkin of how and if I reuse my Nextion display.

Seat gives me a bit of backache. Did even drill new holes to allow for more lean back, but still not ideal. Currently testing some cushions. Will snap a photo of the seat bracket mod tomorrow.
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Looking very much the part now @DrRob

Thanks for the tip on the pedal profile for ACC. I will go and have a look for that one to give it a go.

In regards to the SC2 settings, there have been a few discoveries recently and some of us are finding that the FFB is slightly the better for it. I'll link you to them if you want to have a try if/when you might want to :)
 
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