LG New 45" OLED Ultrawide Monitor

  • Thread starter Deleted member 197115
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Finally the best compromise between fps and image quality for me was
Single monitor dlss off with fov upgrade by calculator curved, projection correction to 1 and upscale resolution to 130% and TAA gen4.
I think dlss off cost much FPS but not Maybe because 1440p and not 4k
 
I ordered this monitor for my rig but I ended up returning and getting a Samsung g9 neo.

Oled is amazing but I also have an alienware 34 oled and the brightness of the LG is EXTREMELY disappointing, much more than the low PPI that everyone points out (which is not a problem for a dedicated simracing monitor).

I much prefer the G9 even if the aspect ratio takes a bit more to get used to, but the brightness is way better and the 32:9 aspect ratio makes it a closer setup to 3 screen.

I do love oled screens (I have also a 42 C2 for my ps5) but I have to say this monitor disappointed me
 
Totally forgot about this thread. I've had the LG 45GR95QE-B for a month. Best monitor, overall, I've ever owned.

I admit, I spoke too early about the PPI. For some reason, going from a 24" 1920x1080 (92 PPI) to a 27" 1920x1080 (82 PPI) 8 or 9 years ago bothered me because of the PPI of the 27". I noticed more aliasing and just a lower general picture quality in games. Fast forward to now. I went from a 38" 3840x1600 (110 PPI) to this 45" 3440x1440 (83 PPI) and, after trying many games, I don't see a massive difference. Actually, the difference is so neglible, it's literally a zero-factor.

By the way, brightness for me is fantastic. It can get eye-searing bright.

Furthermore, I and some others have discovered 3 settings which will make the monitor even brighter. All you need is a generic LG service remote that costs like $7.

1 of those 3 settings disables the vignette effect the monitor uses on the brightness. What is the vignette brightness effect you may be asking? The brightness of the monitor gets lower the further away from the centre of the screen you go. This is always applied no matter your brightness setting, picture mode, SDR or HDR, etc. One of the settings in the service menu disables this so that the entire monitor is the same, uniform brightness. It makes a very nice difference to brightness.

There are 2 more settings. One that makes a slight difference, and one that can make a huge difference. All 3 settings can be enabled simultaneously if you desire.

There were also some issues running DSR in certain modes / refresh rates. I and others have resolved this. Instead of DSR being limited to 144 Hz with DP 1.4 and like 80 or 100 Hz with HDMI 2.1, DSR can now be run at full 240 Hz with, both, DP 1.4 and HDMI 2.1 and it's bloody brilliant. DSR is huge! It's almost as if DSR was made for this monitor.

P.S. I'm pretty sure the 3 service menu brightness fixes/settings also work with the 27" version of this panel, the LG 27GR95QE-B. Furthermore, I'm assuming, but cannot confirm, that it also works with the re-branded versions, the: Corsair Xeneon Flex (45"), Acer Predator X45 (45", unreleased), Asus PG27AQDM (27").


If any 45" or 27" owner would like more details about the 3 service menu brightness-fix settings or the DSR fixes, let me know.
 
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The following is for the LG 45GR95QE-B. I'm not sure if it also applies to the 27GR95QE-B (27" model). I'm assuming it does. Also, I'm not sure if this applies to other branded monitors using these same LG panels like the Acer, Asus, and Corsair versions.

DLDSR @ 240 Hz
Follow it exactly. Do the PC restarts, as mentioned in the video, instead of the restart option the CRU program gives you. It can mess things up.

DLDSR (1.78x 4587x1920 and 2.25x 5120x2160, ignore regular DSR!) makes the monitor look on another level and really hides the fairly low PPI. It's like this monitor is made to showcase DLDSR. The image with DLDSR is fantastic! It's like a "psuedo" 4K - so sharp, clear, clean!

Extra Brightness Settings
Purchase

- If you don't have an LG service remote, you can buy one for around $7 USD. Model # MKJ39170828

Included Standard LG Remote (not the service remote)
- OSD Menu->General->SMART ENERGY SAVING and disable it if it's not greyed out (not sure if this makes the auto backlight brightness less aggressive or what but I disable it just in case)

- OSD Menu->General->Remote Setting set to "Monitor + TV" or your service remote may not work with the monitor

Service Remote
Note: The following settings only take "a few" seconds to change except the APL (P0-P7) settings which take a couple mins or so to max out.
  1. Press "IN START" on the remote. This should bring up the service menu.
  2. Set "AGING" to "ON" to get access to more settings.
  3. Hit "IN START" on service remote again or exit service menu and then go back into it.
  4. Select "DEBUG Module OLED" to bring up it's options.
  5. Set "CPC enable" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
  6. Set "LEA refresh enable" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
  7. Set "HDR enable" to "ON" (SDR only, automatically enabled during HDR).
  8. Set "LBC" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
  9. Set all the "APL" settings (P0-P7) as high as they go ("447 nit").
  10. Exit menu, you're finished.
Important Notes
- Raise contrast to at least 72. You don't get any light grey / white detail loss until 73-75, even then it's insanely minor and only usually in test pics and not in actual gaming/movies so you may be able to go higher, much higher, before seeing white crush in your game/movie. Personally, I keep mine at 72 because I'm OCD.

- Image Cleaning does not auto-initiate while "AGING" is set to "on". Either set "AGING" to "off" every few days so the monitor automatically begins the process the next time the monitor goes to sleep (or is powered off) if it needs to, or, you can just leave "AGING" set to "off" whenever you're not in "full brightness mode gaming/movies". Either way should work.

- Most, if not all, of the service menu settings we changed above reset when the monitor is turned off, sleep mode, etc. No big deal for me, I usually only enable them when gaming anyways (or if watching a "grand" movie), plus, it takes like 10 seconds to enable them all (except "APL").

- The "HDR enable" setting also gets reset in some other circumstances. I think when changing resolution of the monitor or something and definitely when changing picture mode (eg. Gamer 1, Gamer 2, Vivid, etc.).

- The "APL" settings get reset when changing picture mode (eg. Gamer 1, Gamer 2, Vivid, etc.).

- Don't mess with any other settings unless you know what you're doing. I severely messed up my picture editing other settings like all sorts of brightness and HDR calibration settings. They don't improve brightness from what I can tell even if the name of the setting sounds like it will.

- If you mess with other settings, keep in mind that a lot of the settings DO NOT get reset when the monitor is powered off/on. Some settings do but not all. I messed with all sorts of settings, and the only way I was able to fully make sure all settings were back to default was to downgrade the firmware (takes 1-2 hrs) and then re-upgrade the firmware back to the current version (takes another 1-2 hours).

- The settings can all be "stacked on top of each other" for max brightness.

- Even with all settings enabled, Gamer 2 still gives extra brightness compared to Gamer 1 and Vivid further still.

- I stick with Gamer 1, Gamer 2, and Vivid for SDR gaming and basically exclusively use Gamer 2 for true HDR supported gaming as the HDR highlight differences between Gamer 1 and Gamer 2 are HUGE. Avoid Vivid for true HDR gaming as it seems the calibration is messed up and you get all sorts of white crush (massive loss of details for white and light areas/objects).

What Do The Settings Do?
CPC enable:
This setting, on by default, gives the entire picture's brightness a vignette effect. This means the brightness is at it's highest in the middle of the screen and gets dimmer further from the middle in all directions (up, down, left, right). Disabling this settings gives the entire picture the same max brightness that the middle of the screen uses.

LEA refresh enable:
Setting this setting to "OFF" gives the image a slight brightness increase. When enabling and disabling the setting back & forth to test, it's easier to notice the setting being disabled (brightness increase) than it is to see it being enabled (brightness decrease). The reason for this is because the brightness increases instantly when you disable the setting (like with most settings) but, when enabling the setting, the brightness decreases gradually over a 2-ish second period.

HDR enable:
This setting applies the same sort of significant increase in brightness to SDR content that you get in HDR content, meaning, much more brightness and peak brightness highlights. This setting makes SDR games/movies (95+% of the content I view/play) look stunning with crazy-bright highlights. Also, in SDR mode, you can control the gamma, warm/cool, black booster, etc. of Gamer 2 mode so you can get Gamer 2 to look like Gamer 1 (ie. warmer) but with the increase in brightness Gamer 2 offers.

LBC:
This setting doesn't always show a difference in brightness. The times it does, it just seems to affect the centre of the screen from what I've seen. I had a sun shining in a game near the centre of the screen during some tests and while the difference wasn't huge, disabling this setting still gave a small but nice brightness increase.

APL (P0-P7):
This significantly increases the brightness for different window sizes. It affects true HDR content and SDR content (enable the "HDR enable" option for SDR!). P0 is for the smallest window size (and therefore brightest). Even if these are all set to max (447 nits), Vivid is still brighter than Gamer 2 and Gamer 2 still more than Gamer 1 so ignore the "nits" value! Just make sure they're all maxed out! Also, even if these are all set to 447, I believe the brightness still goes down as the window size increases but each window size will be brighter than default so max them all out!
 
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Link for updated post regarding DLDSR & extra brightness settings:

how is it for dirt rally 2.0 or f1 23, or ACC, not too much distorted ? want to try the new techs
I've been playing Dirt 4 quite heavily the past 2 weeks with it. It's amazing (other than not having 3D but monitors don't come with that anymore and we have VR headsets for that anyways).

Just make sure you follow my info if you want to get the absolute most out of the monitor.
 
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Link for updated post regarding DLDSR & extra brightness settings:


I've been playing Dirt 4 quite heavily the past 2 weeks with it. It's amazing (other than not having 3D but monitors don't come with that anymore and we have VR headsets for that anyways).

Just make sure you follow my info if you want to get the absolute most out of the monitor.
can you post video with dirt 4 ? or Dirt rally 2.0 or pictures ? with cockpit cam and bonnet cam ?

this monitor is tempting me.

EDIT : even if your guide is well done, it's a little bit too much for my taste, I just want to plug and play :D I will look another monitor I think, like the

Corsair Xeneon Flex​

 
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can you post video with dirt 4 ? or Dirt rally 2.0 or pictures ? with cockpit cam and bonnet cam ?

this monitor is tempting me.

EDIT : even if your guide is well done, it's a little bit too much for my taste, I just want to plug and play :D I will look another monitor I think, like the

Corsair Xeneon Flex​

The monitor is plug and play, don't worry :) . You don't have to do any of that stuff.
The Corsair Xeneon Flex and Acer Predator X45 use the same panel as the LG 45GR95QE-B so there's no point in spending more money for them (unless you want the flexing feature of the Corsair).

Yes, I can post some pics or videos in the next day or so.
 
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My apologies. I had no idea how poorly my camera was pointed and the very small GoPro FOV I had it set to.

If you'd like me to make another video with a better camera position, a larger GoPro FOV, and a specific in-game FOV, let me know.

(Set vid to 2160p60)

A few things to keep in mind:
- video quality is terrible, colours, sparkly dots ("noise") every where, blurry/soft image, etc. The monitor does not look like that in real life. It looks incredible. It's because of the camera and room's lighting.

- Ignore the input lag in Assetto Corsa Competizone. It's because I forgot to disable some weird graphics card driver settings I was experimenting with. You can see in the video of Automobilista 1 (part with in-game hands and wheel enabled), that there's no input lag (also, reviews confirm it's just about the lowest total input lag monitor).

- Ignore the lag between the sound and picture. Video problem.
 
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My apologies. I had no idea how poorly my camera was pointed and the very small GoPro FOV I had it set to.

If you'd like me to make another video with a better camera position, a larger GoPro FOV, and a specific in-game FOV, let me know.

(Set vid to 2160p60)

A few things to keep in mind:
- video quality is terrible, colours, sparkly dots ("noise") every where, blurry/soft image, etc. The monitor does not look like that in real life. It looks incredible. It's because of the camera and room's lighting.

- Ignore the input lag in Assetto Corsa Competizone. It's because I forgot to disable some weird graphics card driver settings I was experimenting with. You can see in the video of Automobilista 1 (part with in-game hands and wheel enabled), that there's no input lag (also, reviews confirm it's just about the lowest total input lag monitor).

- Ignore the lag between the sound and picture. Video problem.
Thx vers much, the prices are now low.
The corsair flex is on sale at 1499€ and LG at 1200€.
I will buy the corsair one cause I prefer flat without distortion.
The con is I have to buy the desk mount....no vesa

How is your LG? No issue?
 
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Thx vers much, the prices are now low.
The corsair flex is on sale at 1499€ and LG at 1200€.
I will buy the corsair one cause I prefer flat without distortion.
The con is I have to buy the desk mount....no vesa

How is your LG? No issue?
Sorry, I don't know why I didn't get a notification for your message, or maybe I didn't see it.

No issues at all. Aside from not having 3D Vision (which, sadly, no monitors do anymore) it's easily, easily the best monitor I've ever owned and I've owned lots of all types, shapes, sizes, and technologies of monitors.

Just so you know, the Corsair one is not able to be mounted with a VESA mount. You have to use the stand. Corsair said they're going to release a VESA mount for it but I'm not sure if they ever did.

Also, with the Corsair, I don't think you can access the service menu to get all those extra options. I don't even know if you can get DLDSR working at the full 240 Hz like you can with the LG version, let alone access all the amazing extra settings in the service menu.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

If you cannot disable DSC required for 240hz, DLDSR or even standard DSR do not work, they just dissappear from driver options.
 
If you cannot disable DSC required for 240hz, DLDSR or even standard DSR do not work, they just dissappear from driver options.
DSC does not work at the same time as DSR / DLDSR because DSC uses two of the GPU's internal heads therefore DSR can't work. That's why you need to disable DSC on basically any GPU and monitor if you want to use DSR.

When using DP1.4 you can enable/disable DSC in the LG monitor's OSD. After disabling DSC, I was able to get the monitor up to 201 Hz RGB and 240 YCbCr422 using CRU. It worked perfectly with my tests. I cannot tell a difference between YCbCr422 and RGB while gaming. You never want to use YCbCr420 as that shows a clear image quality degradation but YCbCr422 looked almost identical to RGB. However, none of that matters too much because...

...If you follow the directions in the video I posted above, you can get DSR/DLDSR working at the full 240 Hz even with the full RGB and 10-bit. You just need to use HDMI 2.1 which the monitor comes with (including the cable) so it's no problem.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

...If you follow the directions in the video I posted above, you can get DSR/DLDSR working at the full 240 Hz even with the full RGB and 10-bit. You just need to use HDMI 2.1 which the monitor comes with (including the cable) so it's no problem.
It does not use DSC in that case or what? Confused, which video do you refer to?

EDIT: Never mind, few posts above.
 
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It does not use DSC in that case or what? Confused, which video do you refer to?

EDIT: Never mind, few posts above.
Yes, all info for DSR / DLDSR and extra brightness settings are in that post.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

Yes, all info for DSR / DLDSR and extra brightness settings are in that post.
So what is the technical marvel behind this solution, HDMI 2.1 can push 4K 240hz 10bit without compression?
For officially supported bandwidth steps are crazy complicated though, perhaps because it's not.
Looking at the specs and 4K/240Hz for SDR only supported with DSC, and for HDR it's not supported at all and caps at 144hz.
Will probably just stick with 120hz 8bit if I need DLDSR on G9.
 
So what is the technical marvel behind this solution, HDMI 2.1 can push 4K 240hz 10bit without compression?
For officially supported bandwidth steps are crazy complicated though, perhaps because it's not.
Looking at the specs and 4K/240Hz for SDR only supported with DSC, and for HDR it's not supported at all and caps at 144hz.
Will probably just stick with 120hz 8bit if I need DLDSR on G9.
There's nothing crazy complicated nor "technical marvel" going on; well I guess it can be called a technical marvel because it looks so darn good :) .

DSR / DLDSR works 100% perfectly at the full 240 Hz, full RGB, full 10-bit on HDMI 2.1 with the LG.

Monitor bandwidth does not change. DSR/DLDSR is all handled internally by the GPU.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

I understand that scaling is handled by GPU and only final downscaled to native res is sent to monitor. My question was on how it can push that bandwidth (native res 240hz 10bit) without compression, when accordingly to wiki technically it shouldn't, we sure there is no frame skipping or other fancy stuff going on behind the scene, after all it's not supported officially thus the reason for this special configuration hack.
How UFO test looks like with that?
 
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I understand that scaling is handled by GPU and only final downscaled to native res is set to monitor. My question was on how it can push that bandwidth (native res 240hz 10bit) without compression, when accordingly to wiki technically it shouldn't, we sure there is no frame skipping or other fancy stuff going on behind the scene, after all it's not supported officially thus the reason for this special configuration hack.
How UFO test looks like with that?
It is 100% supported. The monitor officially supports full res, 240 Hz, 10-bit, RGB over HDMI 2.1.

It's barely a "hack". All you're basically doing with CRU is removing the TV resolutions (for console gamers). Everything is perfect.
 
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