Build Report: Tactile Immersion in Motion

I'd just built what seemed to me the perfect immersive racing platform. What had started off as a modest attempt to dust off an old hobby had turned into something of an obsession -- messy, mismatched, and ridiculously inadequate at first, but now finally coming together.

After years of disuse, I'd pulled an old Thrustmaster wheelstand, wheel base, and pedal set out of the basement, plopped it down in front of a large screen television, sat myself in a comfy chair and gone racing.

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I'd had an on-again-off-again interest in SIM racing since the early nineties, culminating in the release of GP Legends, which I'd played with a wheel bolted to my computer desk. That's about as far as I'd gotten in terms of hardware. But even I could recognize that this whole setup left a lot to be desired. It was of course annoying to have the stand slide out from under my feet under even light braking, to have only minimum feedback from the wheel and no resistance from the pedals, and to endure the 60Hz television refresh rate. I was having fun, but wanted more. So I started out on a project that I thought had reached its pinnacle before this thread even starts.

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Over the course of the next four of five months, I took a jagged path through a stand just rigid enough to support a direct drive wheel, a better chair that still had to be strapped to the stand once I added a hydraulic brake pedal, eventually forcing a decision to build an 80/20 cockpit, install a proper racing seat, add a motion platform, belt myself in, and put on a VR headset. It was everything I had imagined it could possibly be and was responding beautifully to my efforts to dial it in.

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Then, on a whim, I decided to try out one of those Buttkicker Gamer2 packages. I honestly thought it was a gimmick and didn't expect it to add much to the immersive experience. Even so, despite my already low expectations, I found it singularly unimpressive. Almost every other step I'd taken in this process had not only shown promise, but delivered a substantially improved experience. This thing just did nothing for me at all. I sent it back almost immediately.

Still, the idea of adding tactile stimuli made sense to me. Although that specific product in that particular configuration on my individual platform had not delivered, I couldn't stop turning over in my head that it could be done right and in a way that wouldn't just add a bit of rumbling noise, but would complement the immersive experience of motion and VR. I soon discovered the exhaustive tactile immersion tread and began a correspondence with @Mr Latte that has transformed my thinking about what it should be possible to achieve. Without his guidance, I'm sure I would have given up on this idea.

This thread will chronicle my efforts integrating tactile stimuli on my platform. It may take me a while to cover everything, but here's the plan: After describing my starting point and some of its idiosyncrasies, I'll outline my objectives, general philosophy, specific hardware choices, challenges I've faced and solutions discovered for isolating the 80/20 frame and motion platform while conducting stimuli to the body, explore a few dead ends that haven't worked for me but may be instructive for others, and finally look at software configuration and tuning, which I've only just begun to explore.

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try wood imo it is better for shock, alu may be better for sound.

That flies in the face of all the advice I've ever seen given.

I once had a transducer mounted to a piece of 3/4" plywood and then that plywood to the bottom of a seat. The tactile response was definitely better when I changed that to a 1/4" aluminum plate. The wood was absorbing some of the tactile motion.

The other issue with wood is that it can be crushed over time. Granted I could use a purple heart or even a white oak to get a nice hard wood that might not waller out around the bolt holes and develop looseness.

FWIW I started out with a lot of wood and have a reasonably well equiped wood shop.

A while back I had a transducer mounted to the back of my CS 3.0 brake pedal with a piece of plywood as a backer.
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Here is the piece of aluminum under my old seat that was plywood in an earlier iteration. There was no weird sound and the impact was a bit more solid if anything.
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Other sim related wood working.
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  • Deleted member 197115

Aluminum resonates and can start "singing" (personal experience, had to quiet it down with dynamat) but it all depends on the thickness and size of the plate as well as mounting surface.
1/4" with isolators should probably be all right.
 
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Aluminum resonates and can start "singing" (personal experience, had to quiet it down with dynamat) but it all depends on the thickness and size of the plate as well as mounting surface.
1/4" with isolators should probably be all right.

They are.

And my "expectation" is that 1/2" thick aluminum 2 x 1/4 " mated together over a short run, just 4.5" and bolted both horizontally and vertically to profile should also be very solid and not have ringing issues.
 
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The big butkicker concert, lfe are more practicable for low frequencies shock waves.My best result I get from simple elastical board of wood, mounted the buttkicker at the outer end like a springboard.
 
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This is just my first time bolting it up. I still need to go back and polish this to a mirror finish

That looks very secure indeed. Did you fabricate that aluminium bracket yourself? Very tidy.

I have no idea how relevant this is to sim racing, but when I did some testing with my BK with movies with deep bass, I found somewhat significant differences in the sensation depending on the orientation of the BK itself.

In your pic I can see it is placed at the lower-back of your seat with the piston oscillating vertically.

Personally I always found better results when the piston's axis of movement was pointed right at my lower torso. Mine is mounted in roughly the same place but is oriented 20° off horizontal so the piston axis is aimed right at my ass.

However my seat is a wooden-frame reclining armchair, not very rigid at all. The orientation may well make far less difference (if any at all) given a rig like yours with much more rigidity. Just food for thought.
 
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drop a piece of alu and a piece of wood on the floor and you hear what i mean.

I dropped an aluminium engine block onto concrete, then I dropped my acoustic guitar (mostly wood), guess which made more noise?

Aluminium might rattle if things are loose whereas wood wouldn't, but if the geometry of the construction is rigid and everything is bolted tightly with use of rubber washers in the right places it can be dead silent. Any material (within reason) can be made silent with the correct damping and construction geometry.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

In your pic I can see it is placed at the lower-back of your seat with the piston oscillating vertically.

Personally I always found better results when the piston's axis of movement was pointed right at my lower torso. Mine is mounted in roughly the same place but is oriented 20° off horizontal so the piston axis is aimed right at my ass.
It might provide different sensation but BK transducers designed to operate optimally in vertical orientation

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That looks very secure indeed. Did you fabricate that aluminium bracket yourself? Very tidy.

In your pic I can see it is placed at the lower-back of your seat with the piston oscillating vertically.

I have started to enjoy working with metal and yes I fabricated that bracket. The angle aluminum was just what I had laying around. I would have preferred to have a 2x6" piece so I could trim it to fit to the edge, but this seems very solid.

My last transducer on this same seat was mounted vertically as shown below and that was mostly because it wouldn't fit underneath. Previous to this I had my transducer hanging horizontally under the seat. I liked that the best.

I won't know how this new setup works until my amplifier returns on Tuesday. The amp I built myself isn't designed to push loads like the BK Concert.

I could part with the old mount plate if someone has a similar configuration, but I think I'll keep the spare Aura as backup to my other 3 that are still in service.

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If you mount a non piston transducer (construcive loudspeaker) on a plate,the plate acts as a membrane of a loudspeaker. In contrast piston transducer like buttkicker need a swinging device.Buttkicker should not generate impact sound rather movement.
 
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Let me ground this in reality vs. the theoretical.

The Concert is both powerful and quiet. It has substantially more authority than the Aura did. I will probably never need to use it past 12-1 o-clock on my amp.

It is working very well with the mount I made for it and It puts out a LOT more power than I will ever need.

I am having to split almost every single effect in SimHub because it is happiest about 15-20Hz lower than the Auras.
 
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The Concert is both powerful and quiet. It has substantially more authority than the Aura did. I will probably never need to use it past 12-1 o-clock on my amp.
Concert and LFE are principle the same, except the impedance, the concert needs less output voltage of the amp (volume Gain) for the same power the LFE is more amp friendly because not all amp can drive 2 ohm.
 
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FWIW I started out with the extension on mine, but found it felt a lot better shorter and I know a number of other people who came to the same conclusion.

It's nice to see that they went to SS instead of metal oxide bolts on top. Mine need attention or they show rust. I may replace mine.
 
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another good option is a leather knob

The leather knob looks very good.

I'm about to try a new knob on mine. A friend of mine told me that putting a heavy knob on this shifter makes it feel more realistic by dampening out the feeling of the linkage. I'll find out early next Monday/Tuesday when the bored out adapter gets here. What I can say is that I like how this knob feels in my hand much better than the stock.

Fingers crossed that I like the extra heft and I don't feel like it's slowing my shifts down.

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Going back to tactile, I've got an Aura mounted on the same 40x80 profile my shifter is mounted to and I like the feeling of engine rpm while rowing gears. One more thing that adds to the realism.
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The extension is temporary until I get an adaptor for the shift knob. The whole shifter platform needs to be repositioned lower and at an angle, although I also need to watch out for clearance to the seat and motion platform. I don’t know whether I mentioned this earlier, but the plan is to simulate the cockpit of a Lotus 49.

The foundry Pro-Sim had been using was shut down by the virus, so parts for this current batch were made elsewhere and machined from a block of aluminum rather than cast.
 
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