Going to DD after TS-PC, which one though?

that sounds ok, although it's still a bit odd that it drops by about 0.2v

I'd probably check the signal output from the pot looks stable next. If you are seeing wild changes in diview (or whatever you are using to monitor the pedal output), I'd check to see if you are seeing the same fluttering on the pin. You mentioned you had a scope? If so, that might let you see if there is a lot of noise. Again, I'd measure with the DD1 off, then on. If you do see noise, then at least then you can start to try and isolate it.

One final thing - just for my clarity - I'm assuming you are measuring the voltage as you gave all your numbers in 'v', but I noticed you also used 'current' and 'pulling' - have you also been measuring the current and were some of them actually amps?
 
  • Deleted member 197115

Sound like DD ground issue, almost 100%. Had some experience with this on OSW Argon, but it was only affecting HE Pro cell reading, not killing pedals completely and was fairly easy to fix by adding ground wire from the motor to controller.
There is also a way of fixing it, which works for me with HE handbrake, by grounding USB cable itself on the end that goes into controller.
1690043709173.png

1690043749081.png


Never had any issues with Simucube2 though.
 
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I didn't measure current, that was me messing up my writing again; I'm really sorry for that!
Current seems useless to measure in this case as there is no real load.
The "spiking" is not to see on the scope though, depending on how far you "zoom in", but it's not there really.
But moreover: no difference between the Fanatec on- or off.

The wire: I am a bit afraid to mess with the new Fanatec set, costing lots of money ;)
It's not worth it in that case. It's actually a good idea, but I'm a bit scared......
 
  • Deleted member 197115

No difference with DD off, that's unusual. What about it unplugged from the wall?
Could be some issue with PSU.
 
I had a similar issue when I had my DD2 and G29 pedals.. It would kinda spike for one and also a very strange problem. Touching the DD2 base or any metal connected to it would give my PC all kinds of crazy commands and inputs.
Before successfully connecting G29 pedals to SimXperience AccuForce controller,
an Internet search for Logitech pedal schematic yielded discrepancies, e.g. this:
G25.png


... that:
G27_Pedal_Pinout.jpg

  • .. and another:
    G27_29_920.jpg

    Disassembling my own pedals and checking continuity:
  • black wire was connected to pin 1 and also to metal pedal base plate
One wants all exposed metal parts connected to ground.
Some netizens report "static" on extruded rigs using Logitech pedals,
and some report having to reverse pedal actuations e.g. in Assetto Corsa setup wizard,
suggesting "hot" and "ground" swapped.

Consequently, I strongly suggest that folks measure voltage between "known" ground,
e.g. USB connector metal shroud, and metal base plate of Logitech pedals
with those pedals isolated from anything conductive while plugged in.
Perhaps Logitech switched wiring among versions...
 
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Perhaps Logitech switched wiring among versions...
Yeah I'm pretty certain that Logitech have done this for some of the G2x products. I remember reading some pinouts recently for the shifter, and that was certainly different between models. I can't recall if I've also seen similar changes for the pedals. (The Bodnar adapter appears to automagically work anyway.)
 
Yeah I'm pretty certain that Logitech have done this for some of the G2x products. I remember reading some pinouts recently for the shifter, and that was certainly different between models. I can't recall if I've also seen similar changes for the pedals. (The Bodnar adapter appears to automagically work anyway.)
The shifters are physically different though. G25 has buttons + sequential mode, G27 only buttons, G29 only the H-pattern without buttons.
 
The "spiking" is not to see on the scope though, depending on how far you "zoom in", but it's not there really.
if the voltage out of the pots is pretty stable, then the next thing to start checking is the USB converter if you are up for it.

Which one do you have? I'll see if I can find any useful details for it that might help with diagnosing the problem, but an initial test would be looking to see if you have continuous ground between the USB outer shield and the pots/frame on the pedals to see if the suggestion from @Andrew_WOT would be worth a go
 
Thank you guys!
Tried a lot, been busy making cables and so on: I'm pretty much done tinkering with it.
You know what it is? It's all brand new stuff, even the system itself is a few months old: I'm one that will "go to far" in my search and kill something expensive ;)

Not really worth it because the Fanatec pedals will come in tuesday. So, I gave up, Fanatec wins ;)

Thank you for all your help guys; very much appreciated!!
 
I have to do a follow-up on this guys.
Today, I removed the pedals in total and -for some reason- I tried it when the pedals were on the floor: they worked fine!
I mean; isolating them from the same metal as the base is mounted to: I did that as one of the first things, right? I recall so......I must have messed up big time on that.

But hey, new ones coming in soon.......I leave it alone.
Thought I'd share, you all have been most helpful, this seems the right thing to do.
Thanks again guys!
 
I agree, although it never happened before with other wheels, also non-Logitech.

Anyway: I think (as I was afraid I'd do) I messed something up........the screen now "sets" itself.
When I'm driving, the car moves, sure, but then, every once in a while, it seems like the screen just "sets itself a bit to the side".......some sort of flickering so to say.
 
it never happened before
Although much more common with extruded rigs,
where oxide even on "fresh" aluminum is an insulator,
metal-to-metal contact does not guaranty electrical contact,
hence star washers.

When sim racers speculate about interference from static,
intermittent electrical connections are more likely,
particularly among components attached to a metal rig.

As an experiment, I just now retested electrical continuity
on my combination steel and extrusion wheel stand with essentially no flex:
  • Stainless screws to painted steel nearly all showed continuity, but
  • nearly none to extrusions do, although they did when first assembled...
 
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I think I get you, yes.
The Fanatec is the only one attached to the rig: no monitor, pedals, nothing: should be good to go then, right?
I'm really worried now my screen is acting up......
Also in VR: it keeps "setting" the screen, like when you sometimes drive in a to dark room: the car moves a bit around you......know what I mean? The car goes a bit to the right around you, a bit forward, a bit backwards and so on.
That is happening now a lot and never before.
This happens in VR, but also (less) in normal screen. All in game, normal screens are okay.
I'm really feeling sick right now, got pain in the stomach about this.
 

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