Going to DD after TS-PC, which one though?

[Navigator]

Hi guys,

My Thrustmaster TS-PC is still in very good shape, but I want to switch to a Direct Drive wheel.
To keep everyone happy in this household, I'm looking for the best value for money
At the moment, I have two steering wheels and I would like to have a round and an F1 style.
So, I think, better buy a Thrustmaster DD then, right?
I know the Moza 5Nm is pretty cheap as a bundle, but steering wheels are expensive plus: 5 Nm doesn't seem al that much? Not worth it even?

Fanatec? Eh, expensive too, a bit.

I don't need 5.000 Nm, so a step up from what I have now (about 6 Nm some say) would be okay.
Are there any other suggestions? I got to do this once, I need to do it properly. The wife says silly things as "the kids need food too", so, can't keep on throwing money at it

 

[Ruttman98]

For the best value proposition, I would strongly consider the VRS Driving Force Pro (DGP). This the upgrade path I will take from my Fanatec CSW v 2.5 after strongly considering both Moza and Simagic.

As for wheel options, I have an Ascher 28 button plate which I use with the following wheels for various car types:

1) Turn R305 - current open wheel and GT
2) MOMO Prototipo 320 mm
3) Longacre 290 mm - vintage Open wheel / go karts - with or without button plate

To approximate older GT cars, I typically use a Racemark Raid 350 mm without the button with a TH8RS shifter or Amazon shifter and a DSD button box but it can also be fitted to the Ascher button plate.

Another option would be to convert your Thrustmaster wheels to USB for connection directly to your PC for use with any DD wheel.

 

[pullmehome]

I bought an alpha mini last year. It's 13 months old and has worked great the whole time. Wheels are expensive for that too but the d1 spec quick release also allows for cheap options as well. Do you have load cell pedals yet? If not that's something to consider as well what brand you buy and if you want all the same hardware. I went with heusinkveld pedals but would see how some would want all the software in the same suite.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

The Best Direct Drive Wheels: Our Ultimate Buyer's Guide

I've listed my favourite direct drive wheels for sim racing from low to high budgets, there's a DD wheel for every sim racer's rig...

simracingcockpit.com

 

[NetLawMan]

Consider very carefully what system (pc/console) you will use it with. Also what games. There are lots of good options, but it can’t be a good option for you if you can’t play the games you want on the system you want. There are “tools/SW” to help overcome some compatibility issues, but the do add another layer of complexity and configuration.

 

[Navigator]

That's a lot to think about guys, thank you so much!
A whole new "manner of thinking and picking" has opened up for me I have to say.
And things like if they work on the games I play: never thought about that(!!) Not a minor thing!

I do have load cel brake, yes. They are the inner pedals from an older L G27 and those are some proper steel, hard mounted on the sim: those will never break down. Bought a simple conversion: bit of electronics I can make myself too and the cell itself is some simple thing of 50 Kg you can order anywhere: spare parts are okay. I left those pedals and shifter on the electronics of the G27 board and connected them separately to the system: I will keep it that way.

One thing that caught my attention: nearly ALL belt/gear wheels, have the steering under an upping angle coming out of the housing.
Nearly all DD wheels, have the housing and axis inline.
I wanted my steering perfectly vertical so I welded the plate accordingly: will have to do that again with a DD wheel.
Never, in any forum or article have I read about this "problem". That seems strange, doesn't it?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

If you mean the angle of the shaft, you adjust the whole wheelbase using mounting bracket like this, most rigs have their mounting plates adjustable to add some angle.

Simucube Adjustable Motor Mount - SimRacingBay

SC2 Adjustable Motor Mount: Carbon Steel, black colorised Compatible with Simucube 2 systems (Sport, Pro and Ultimate) Compatible with OSW systems with Small or Large Mige (130ST) M8 Bolts, washers and stainless steel nuts included Immediate Dispatch, delivery times are shown at checkout

www.simracingbay.com

 

[patrickmmor]

My .02 , go with the thrustmaster DD unit since you already have some TM wheels. I had a t300 for several years with a p310 wheel and the base ps4 wheel that came with it. I recently upgraded to the 818 and it has been great.

 

[stigs2cousin]

My .02 , go with the thrustmaster DD unit since you already have some TM wheels. I had a t300 for several years with a p310 wheel and the base ps4 wheel that came with it. I recently upgraded to the 818 and it has been great.

I´d like to friendly contradict that.

A you use stand alone pedals consoles are out, that simplifies things immensely.
All wheelbases I know work on PC on all Sims.

Since you do your own fabrication and electronics don´t step voluntarily into the prison of an eco system.

As stated above TN wheels can be converted to USB, it´s no rocket science to DIY quick release and (Arduino) electronics.

On my DD base I use OMP and Fanatec blank without buttons , converted TM with USB and wireless Ascher.

The only reason I don´t recommend Simucube is budget.
VRS is not the cheapest solution either but a reputable european brand.
I can´t comment on the new chinese guys but I´m wary of longevity and service after a few years of utilisation.

Have a look here:

Adaptador All-in-one Thrustmaster a OSW

Convierte tú mismo tu aro Thrustmaster y hazlo compatible con OSW.

www.simracingcoach.com

and inspiration only, didn´t stand up to the test of time:

https://www.3drap.it/product/simple-hub-adapter-with-buttons-and-paddles/

this DOES NOT fit the TM PCD and the shifters are

 

[patrickmmor]

I´d like to friendly contradict that.

A you use stand alone pedals consoles are out, that simplifies things immensely.
All wheelbases I know work on PC on all Sims.

Since you do your own fabrication and electronics don´t step voluntarily into the prison of an eco system.

As stated above TN wheels can be converted to USB, it´s no rocket science to DIY quick release and (Arduino) electronics.

On my DD base I use OMP and Fanatec blank without buttons , converted TM with USB and wireless Ascher.

The only reason I don´t recommend Simucube is budget.
VRS is not the cheapest solution either but a reputable europein brand.
I can´t comment on the new chinese guys but I´m wary of longevity and service after a few years of utilisation.

Have a look here:

Adaptador All-in-one Thrustmaster a OSW

Convierte tú mismo tu aro Thrustmaster y hazlo compatible con OSW.

www.simracingcoach.com

and inspiration only, didn´t stand up to the test of time:

https://www.3drap.it/product/simple-hub-adapter-with-buttons-and-paddles/

this DOES NOT fit the TM PCD and the shifters a

Fabrication takes time and time is $$$.
The TM DD is ready to go, right now. It works with what he already has. This is the best value.

 

[thegreatradish]

I went through this. The easiest and first priority is to get rid of the wife. Then get a Moza R9 with a KS wheel.

 

[stigs2cousin]

After my experiences with TM build quality and software development (especially zero documentation) I still friendly decline.

Let´s leave it at that, the TO will form his own opinion.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I went through this. The easiest and first priority is to get rid of the wife.

Ouch, that is not a cheap solution

 

[thegreatradish]

Well Carsten sometimes it's about value for money not outright price

 

[stigs2cousin]

Gotcha

 

[Deleted member 197115]

It's just not that good and a grossly overpriced wheel.
$650 for 10NM plastic wheelbase. Sorry, there are much better price to performance offerings on the market.
Even 17Nm industrial motor all metal SC2 Sport at $1199 shipped starts looking like a steal in comparison, not to mention other lower grade offerings like Moza, VRS, etc.

 

[Michael Krone]

I went through this. The easiest and first priority is to get rid of the wife.

Lol or find one that encourages your dumb spending decisions.

 

[Navigator]

Thanks again guys.
I am overthinking everything, looking at what you all said and they all make sense, even the "get rid of the wife" is actually not even out of the question
And you know what? I think you all can imagine; it's not getting easier, I think you all can relate.

Pure looking at the financial aspect: when I sell my base with the two wheels, hoping to get about 400 euro for it and buying a Fanatec CSL DD with boost kit and the GT3 McLaren wheel (670 euro) its pretty "cheap". I won't have a round wheel, but hey, I will get a birthday again

So, that's one thing I'm thinking of right now too.
The TM base, making 10Nm and all the plastic parts to attach the older wheel: somehow I don't think that's going all that well for a longer period of time. Thats in my mind at the moment.
So, buying a set that is "made to go along", may be the better choice.

But really, I don't know; doing a lot of research right now

 

[Michael Krone]

If youre looking towards the CSL DD, consider the cheaper wheel they have. I think its the P1 wheel? They have a couple versions of it and I think its just about $120. Used can be even cheaper. There was a guy on here that was going to sell me his (brand new) for $50 including shipping. I know thats not realistic to expect but its just an example of what you can find if you look hard enough.

 

[patrickmmor]

"all the plastic" stuff about the TM direct drive unit is honesty a bit misleading. TM 818 motor unit is front mounted on a metal 90* bracket that is also the main bracket that mounts to the wheel deck. The folks complaining about plastic being an issue with the 818 haven't bothered to look fully into it themselves and are just passing along the talking point.
Starting at roughly 36:00 mark in barry's SRG review video of the 818, you can clearly see the metal bracket I'm talking about.