Going to DD after TS-PC, which one though?

[Navigator]

Beads, not rings! (Thought they were the same, sorry)
I will order them, but for instance the VR cable: one at each end, is that how its supposed to be?

I'm sorry to say, but I'm a bit ashamed I can't figure some stuff out. Again: is it cars, no problem, but this stuff is still hard for me.
The voltage: is it a problem or not and should I wire the rig to my computercasing or leave it in the wall plug?

And the motherboard: I don't have anything overclocked with the system. Even the ram is supposed to be 3600 Mhz but it will only do that, if I put XMP on "enabled".
Plus, when the bios is set to the stock cooler, it will not run the CPU at full speed and that's why I chose "water-cooling" for that. A few fan curves in there and that is all I touched.

Sorry, I had to make the picture smaller in order to upload it, but haven't checked if it was still readable.
I found another one, this one should be good to go

 

[RasmusP]

And the motherboard: I don't have anything overclocked with the system. Even the ram is supposed to be 3600 Mhz but it will only do that, if I put XMP on "enabled".
Plus, when the bios is set to the stock cooler, it will not run the CPU at full speed and that's why I chose "water-cooling" for that. A few fan curves in there and that is all I touched.

Sorry, I had to make the picture smaller in order to upload it, but haven't checked if it was still readable.
I found another one, this one should be good to go

Yep, sharp enough
Having to put XMP to enabled is normal and your RAM is running 1800*2 = 3600 MHz with CL18 @ 1.35V, which is as expected.
What I wanted to say about RAM: Although the XMP profiles are seemingly guaranteed to run, it's sadly not.
It's more like "We were able to run this piece of RAM at 3600 CL18 with our test CPUs. Maybe it'll run with your CPU too, maybe it won't.".
So if you get black screens etc again, put the DRAM frequency manually from 3600 to 3200 and leave everything else as it is. This should make the RAM 100% stable if nothing is broken

 

[Deleted member 197115]

The worst thing when you are trying to fix multiple things at the same time.
I honestly lost track what is broken in your system. I remember it started with G29 pedals stopping working after connecting DD1. But then I read issues with mouse, VR headset, keyboard.
And now failing overclocking and BSODs?
May be try to isolate the problem by starting with BIOS defaults, make sure other USB devices work with DD1. And only then try to apply XMP profile and CPU overclock. Small step at a time.
Are things fine without DD1 connected to the system? Send this sucker back.
More poor souls dealing with similar issues.

 

[blekenbleu]

one at each end, is that how its supposed to be?

At least. Both ends have both transmitters and receivers.
USB cables > 2m are often problematic.
There is no such thing as too many ferrite beads on shielded signal cables.
For power cables, both hot and return should be in the same beads to effectively attenuate EMI.

this stuff is still hard for me

If it were too easy, then I would not have been paid to do it.

The voltage: is it a problem or not

It is not a safety issue, IMO.

should I wire the rig to my computer casing

I would. When planning migration from G29 to direct drive,
I read everything here on RD about others' experiences,
filtered that thru EMC engineering experience and pessimism, then:

• direct connections between wheelbase, its power and controller and PC,
  isolated from other wiring
• ferrite beads and shielding on all cables
• a single shielded 12VDC supply and powered USB hub
  for other USB devices on wheel stand and seat...
• ...except HP Reverb HMD, which also has its own separate wiring to the PC,
  located inches from the wheel stand, with shortest possible cables,
  resulting in a substantial collection of longer cables that were replaced.

While having endured plenty of hassles with e.g. drivers and CPU thermals,
I've been able to relax EMC paranoia enough to e.g. bundle power and signal cables
from wheel stand to tactile transducers and harness tensioner on my seat with no issues,
but harness tensioner motor controller at that seat has a substantial supercapacitor bank
to absolutely minimize power surges on wiring in that bundle.

 

[Navigator]

Got it: set the ram to 3200 Mhz to make it stable!
Never would have thought that that would make it stable.
It is quite good now: runs fine, don't have weird stutters anymore and this can only make it better, nice!

Yeah, we covered a lot of ground in this topic. Well, you guys covered a lot of ground: I aim just the dumb-ass getting the problems and asking stupid questions
From the moment I got the wheel, it began with pedals acing up, first thing I noticed because I couldn't get the assigned. Few (hours?) after that, the bios/memory/something broke down and from that moment on, I got rid of the pedals and started seeing things in the games.
Sending it all back is still on my mind, but its a mountain to climb. Certainly because I'm not having serious problems anymore.

So the Ferrite beads and the more, the better, right?
"For power cables, both hot and return should be in the same beads to effectively attenuate EMI."
Do you mean together in one bead?
For the voltage, I was not worried about my safety, but more about the system
But I will disconnect the wall outlet end and secure the rig to the system!
I can see there is a lot to do about the "electrics side", wow. If I would have known......
Better make a wooden rig and let cables come in from all sides

 

[RasmusP]

Got it: set the ram to 3200 Mhz to make it stable!
Never would have thought that that would make it stable.
It is quite good now: runs fine, don't have weird stutters anymore and this can only make it better, nice!

Nice!
RAM can be really annoying if it acts up... When everything is running fine, I would recommend to go back to 3600 MHz to get more CPU performance.
But as long as things are acting up seemingly random, it's worth the 1-4% performance to get things definitely stable.

2133 MHz is the default ddr4 speed. The maximum, depending on cpu & mobo is somewhere around 4200 MHz.
So running 3600 is already quite close to the maximum. 3200 is a bit closer to the middle and basically what every cpu and ram can run without issues.

 

[Navigator]

@RasmusP
Whilst the system runs fine now, the "not starting" thing did happen again.
I have to say I did not made those changes yet as I was a bit scary and wanted to properly look in the bios.
Funny thing is: when it doesn't start, it doesn't even give me the chance to select "F1" or so: it just stays black and keeps restarting.
Could it be wise to just buy new ram?
The other thing I noticed, was the red light: even when there was nothing going on, all ran fine, when I started up, there was the red CPU light for just half a second. I never payed attention to it and so I don't know if this is normal.

I thought I was able to reproduce it: I ran a game for half an hour, shut off my system and then shut off the wheelbase, but nope.
I did put it on 3200 Mhz now and the voltage was 1,349 V, I have set that one to 1,4 V

 

[blekenbleu]

"For power cables, both hot and return should be in the same beads to effectively attenuate EMI."
Do you mean together in one bead?

Yes. In other words, using separate beads for hot and neutral (or positive and negative)
might exacerbate interference.

 

[Navigator]

Yes. In other words, using separate beads for hot and neutral (or positive and negative)
might exacerbate interference.

I would have to cut open the wire then? I mean, they both run in the some plastic tube?
Sorry, I think I'm not getting the obvious here and I'm not even drunk

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP
Whilst the system runs fine now, the "not starting" thing did happen again.
I have to say I did not made those changes yet as I was a bit scary and wanted to properly look in the bios.
Funny thing is: when it doesn't start, it doesn't even give me the chance to select "F1" or so: it just stays black and keeps restarting.
Could it be wise to just buy new ram?
The other thing I noticed, was the red light: even when there was nothing going on, all ran fine, when I started up, there was the red CPU light for just half a second. I never payed attention to it and so I don't know if this is normal.

I thought I was able to reproduce it: I ran a game for half an hour, shut off my system and then shut off the wheelbase, but nope.
I did put it on 3200 Mhz now and the voltage was 1,349 V, I have set that one to 1,4 V

Mhh, good question... "Not starting" is mostly due to RAM or too high CPU overclocking, but yours isn't overclocked.
So you only NOW set the RAM to 3200 MHz? Then test if it's fine now or happening again.

I would have to cut open the wire then? I mean, they both run in the some plastic tube?
Sorry, I think I'm not getting the obvious here and I'm not even drunk

I've never seen a cable with the two wires NOT in the same plastic. The ferrite beads need to go around both cables. So no, don't cut them open haha.
But there might be some things like a car battery, where the two wires are NOT in the plastic tube. In this case you'd need to get them together at some point and put a ferrite bead around both.

 

[blekenbleu]

not getting the obvious here

Sorry, I provided too much information (TMI)...

Yes, the entire power cable should run thru each ferrite bead.

 

[Navigator]

There is indeed no overclock on the system.
I was a bit hesitant to change the frequency of the ram as it did run well in that time and I'm really not good with that kind of stuff: I thought it was scary and I had to find out more how to.
Just now, I didn't bother anymore: break the whole thing but this is getting ridiculous.
So, now it's there

It also was not a matter of TMI; it's just me who is........well, I don't know what it is, but even some simple things I just don't get. Thinking is hard for me it seems lately.
I actually am thinking of visiting a doctor.
Anyway, I do get it now, measured the wires and off to order some beads!

BTW, to be sure, I did order a new set of ram as it turned out its only 40 bucks now: I can test two weeks

 

[Navigator]

Hmm, maybe I'm onto something here: it occurred to me that when I shut off the wheelbase, I can hear a small "clonk". It sounds to me as a relais. Seems logical.
However: I don't hear that always.......hmmm......
Can't reproduce the fault with the bios with it though.

 

[blekenbleu]

when I shut off the wheelbase, I can hear a small "clonk". It sounds to me as a relais.

My guess is that is the wheelbase motor responding to a random impulse
from control circuitry losing control before power circuitry loses power.
This is comparable to sound system audible pops when power is turned off or on.
It has been awhile since viewing Fanatec DD1/2 circuitry,
but fairly certain that no relays are involved.

 

[Navigator]

Ah, I tought so, bit if a heavy relay.
If it is what you say: is it then normal it is random, not always?

 

[RasmusP]

Ah, I tought so, bit if a heavy relay.
If it is what you say: is it then normal it is random, not always?

Is the clack in the wheelbase or the pc?

 

[Navigator]

It is certainly in the wheelbase: I can actually feel it.

 

[blekenbleu]

I can actually feel it

Feeling clack suggests less than ideal wheel attachment, another notorious Fanatec issue.
I went thru 3 QR implementations to eliminate clack in my (non-Fanatec) direct drive.

 

[blekenbleu]

normal it is random

Alternating current is zero 100 times per second in EU.
If power is switched off when current is nearly zero, then transient behavior is less likely.

 

[Navigator]

So, I get it: it IS normal that this happens random? Going from the electronics point in this case.

I am pretty, well, very sure it is electronics and not QR or else related: the wheel itself isn't even moving, its from the housing, just a clack you can (lightly) feel, no moving parts: I'm very sure of that.