Why doesn't any company make a single rally flappy paddle gear shift?

Elaphe · Dec 27, 2017

I know it would be a very specific peripheral, but there are several manufacturers that create specific and high end devices for sim racing, and I think there would be many users interested in it. Besides, it wouldn't be too hard nor expensive to make. The kind of peripheral I'm referring to is a single flappy paddle gear shift, which installs on the right of the steering wheel and that, unlike normal paddles, is fixed, much longer (following the contour of the wheel), and actuates on both directions (pull for gear up, and push for gear down). This kind of gear shift is very common in rally driving nowadays. It could have an adjustable desk clamp, so that you can use it with any model of steering wheel, simply by attaching it to your desk or cockpit's steering wheel tray and then adjust if exactly where you want in height and depth.

Elaphe · Mar 8, 2018

It's good to know. Any improvement is always welcome. I have not had time to 3D print the parts yet this week. I made a model though. The only problem I've found is that maybe the paddle is a bit too close to the enclosure, so I may sometimes hit it with my fingers when downshifting. Maybe 1 cm longer would be better. That would also increase the travel a bit, which is not a bad thing. I can load the files with Tinkercad, but I don't know how to edit individual parts.

Edit: I've taken a look at the new design with magnets. Very clever way to implement the idea!

Edit 2: This would be the perfect solution for me:

Elaphe · Mar 9, 2018

Today I've been able to make this design in Tinkercad by editing your 3D models. My idea is to give the model the exact angle (18°) of the Thrustmaster steering wheels, so that the paddle follows that exact angle when installing the enclosure on a vertical stand. The model is not perfect, because it's made by chopping and combining parts. Tinkercard is very limited for this, or at least I don't know how to edit individual parts of a model. I cannot either create the rounded angles on the joints. I suppose that is made with some automatic feature of Autocad or any other software. If it's easy for your to make this change and have time, I think it would be better than the previous vertical enclosure.

itrdc5 · Mar 10, 2018

Elaphe said:
Edit 2: This would be the perfect solution for me:

Uploaded offset-paddle.stl and button-case-angled-18-degrees.stl to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813974. Have a look.

Elaphe · Mar 10, 2018

Fantastic. However, for some reason, this is what I see when I import the models in Tinkercad. There are some strange boxes and shapes. Can you please check it out?

Oh, and where have you found the magnets? Is that a standard size? I see a lot of neodimium magnets on Amazon but on different sizes.

itrdc5 · Mar 10, 2018

Weird. Found errors in the paddle. Fixed. Couldn't find any errors with the box. Uploaded to Tinkercad and had the same issue. Then I exported with High refinement instead of Medium (default) and tried again with Tinkercad and it looks fine now. Please re-download and try again.

Link to magnets is in the Thingiverse description. Anyway, here it is. https://aussiemagnets.com.au/product/--6.35-x---6.35-x---2.5mm-Block-(Rare-Earth).html
These guys are local to me. Not sure if it's a standard size or not.

itrdc5 · Mar 10, 2018

Imperial equivalent would be 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/10".
eg https://www.magnet4sale.com/n42-1-4-x-1-4-x-1-10-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnet/

Elaphe · Mar 10, 2018

Perfect now! Thanks a lot. I think it's time to 3D print.

I'll try to find those magnets in my country. If they are not the exact size, I suppose I could try cutting them.
Can I ask what program do you use for the modeling?

itrdc5 · Mar 10, 2018

Fusion 360.

Elaphe · Mar 10, 2018

Ordering the magnets to Australia or Neo Zealand is more than 50$, so that's out of the question. I have found a magnet dealer in my country (Spain) that has several models that are available and could fit in:

20x4x3, 2,4 kg
https://www.superimanes.com/bloques-grandes/360-b-20-04-03.html

10x5x3, 1,5 kg
https://www.superimanes.com/bloques-grandes/883-b-10-05-03.html

10x5x2, 1,3 kg
https://www.superimanes.com/bloques-grandes/840-b-10-05-02.html

Since you said the added tension is subtle, I think it would be better to install the 2,4 kg model. Your magnets have a strengh of 1,13 kg, according to the data sheet. Do you think the 20x4x3 could be installed. I've tried placing them with Tinkercad and I think there's enough room. They are 3 mm thick instead of 2,5, but if they are 1 mm out of the hole, it wouldn't matter. Would it be too much to ask for a modified model with the squared holes for these dimensions? (if I have to do it with Tinkercad the results may be unexpected, hehe).

itrdc5 · Mar 11, 2018

Elaphe said:
20x4x3, 2,4 kg
https://www.superimanes.com/bloques-grandes/360-b-20-04-03.html

Done. Uploaded.

Elaphe · Mar 11, 2018

Perfect. Sorry for stealing your time and again thanks for your patience.

I already have my buttons. Now I'm ordering the magnets. On monday I will send the files to print. I'm eager to see the results!

Elaphe · Mar 12, 2018

My friend only has red PLA. I suppose it would be better ABS, but I'll give it a try. I've read PLA has the advantages of better finish and that it's harder than ABS. On the contrary, it should not be exposed to high temperatures and it's hard to paint.

itrdc5 · Mar 12, 2018

You don't need to worry about it melting since you're not installing it in a real car where it might sit out in the heat. Red is faster anyway

Good luck. Do post some pics when done.

Elaphe · Mar 16, 2018

I already have my printed shifter. It works well, although I have noticed some friction and also some wobble. Maybe some sanding or some lubrication may help. Apart from this, as you said pushing on the top of the lever doesn't feel as good. I understand I cannot expect this to work as if made of metal with ball bearings, springs, etc.

itrdc5 · Mar 16, 2018

Shouldn't have friction. If you are using a nut, don't tighten it. A lock nut that's not screwed down all the way is probably best or don't even use a nut. As each printer has different tolerances, if that doesn't work, perhaps file the hole out a bit. The wobble, you mean the paddle can move up and down a bit? You may be able to print the paddle part scaled slightly higher, eg. by 1 percent. Hope you get it sorted and then pics!

Elaphe · Mar 17, 2018

I have reduced the issues. The only problem left that I can see is that the flex on the very top of the paddle makes the rotation hard and slugish. A solution would be to make the paddle one cm shorter on the top. However, I think that maybe the problem is that the base is too short. Don't you think that if the base and the connector were twice as high, the rotation would be better? If the part in contact with the screw is short, the flex of the paddle makes the connector push the screw vertically instead of completetelly horizontally. I don't know if I'm explaining myself well.

itrdc5 · Mar 17, 2018

I'm not sure what you mean by base and connector twice as high. I've just taken a video of mine.

I'm not seeing much wobble. Is yours like mine or worse? I can't move my base further up as you can see at 26s, it is flushed against the slot on the wheel where I'm using it to act against push and pull forces.

Perhaps moving the paddle into a more central position would work better for you.

Elaphe · Mar 17, 2018

Yes, I have more vertical wobble, and that's one of the problems. I will upload a video later (recharging batteries).

I meant that a design like this (see image) would definitelly work better: a more solid paddle with less flex and and a longer screw which reduces wobble. In the design we have now it's just 1,5 cm of plastic rotating on a screw.

itrdc5 · Mar 17, 2018

OK, will have a think about it. I won't be able to work on it this weekend though.

itrdc5 · Apr 14, 2018

Elaphe said:
Yes, I have more vertical wobble, and that's one of the problems. I will upload a video later (recharging batteries).

I meant that a design like this (see image) would definitelly work better: a more solid paddle with less flex and and a longer screw which reduces wobble. In the design we have now it's just 1,5 cm of plastic rotating on a screw.

FYI, you can see the latest version here.

Thingiverse links in video description. It's a new link.