Which Fanatec DD are you buying and why?

[White Hawk]

I couldn’t see this type of post anywhere and as I’m undecided on a DD1 or the PS4 version for extra compatibility right now thought I’d put this up, forgive me if it’s already been done.

 

[White Hawk]

Do you know the dimensions of the entire unit? I've only been able to find the shipping box dimensions.

Looking at the photos with the dimensions we do have I’m going to guess in the 26-28cm range for length of the box and another 9-10cm for the shaft and QR.

What do people think?

 

[RCHeliguy]

Looking at the photos with the dimensions we do have I’m going to guess in the 26-28cm range for length of the box and another 9-10cm for the shaft and QR.

What do people think?

The Shaft and QR are pretty easy to calculate. 126mm - 35mm = 91mm

 

[White Hawk]

The Shaft and QR are pretty easy to calculate. 126mm - 35mm = 91mm

Haha, yeah I didn’t see those numbers, pretty accurate guess then.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

This guy has a CSW and a DD1 side by side... No measurements, but rig changes may need to be made. Although, looking at the mounting holes, most of the housing will 'hang' out the back.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The flat section on the front will end about where the CSW 2.5 does now and the beveled section will extend forward about 3/4" from where the flat face of the CSW ended flush.

On the P1 wheel bracket, it will extend ~3/4" over the front and probably about 1.5-2" off the back. So I think that should look fine. It will also be about 4 3/4" narrower or 60mm less on each side.

The steering wheel center is 112.5mm up from the bottom bolts compared with about 73mm for the CSW. So my earlier comment was wrong. I will have to drop my wheel deck by about 1.5". Luckily I still have about 2.5" clearance for my legs.

 

[White Hawk]

Not to be a pain, but can someone go into detail again why the DD2 can produce slightly better FFB detail over the DD1 if both are set to 100% on the base and the sim is set to preferred strength. I’m still having trouble getting my head around it with some saying yes that’s the case and some saying no it isn’t.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Not to be a pain, but can someone go into detail again why the DD2 can produce slightly better FFB detail over the DD1 if both are set to 100% on the base and the sim is set to preferred strength. I’m still having trouble getting my head around it with some saying yes that’s the case and some saying no it isn’t.

Think of it like headroom for transients on an audio amplifier. Because the DD2 can pull more current it can accelerate to the same position faster than the DD1. They both get the same data, they both want to go to the same place, but one has more power to get there even if they are set to have a similar ending power level. From a purely mechanical standpoint the DD2 has the ability to create a more detailed image of the data because it has the capacity to accelerate faster.

Being able to accelerate faster means it can get to a point quicker and pull back faster which should mean having the ability to more accurately move at a higher frequency without blurring things together. How much I have no clue. You would need to send them both identical signals and using a measuring device to see how much and at what point it becomes noticeable.

Please keep in mind this is purely a numbers game. If you had them side by side, you might feel a difference or you might not. Some people are likely a lot more sensitized from using other DD wheels. I certainly have no experience to judge with. If you never experienced them side by side you might not notice a difference. Both will likely be a huge jump from a CSW if the software you are using has good usable FFB.

As an electrical engineer, my thoughts are that the DD2 should have higher quality, higher current handling electronics under the hood which would help justify why they give it a 5 year warranty. I would likely have both set to a very similar final power output and the DD2 would not be working the electronics as hard so it should last longer. The DD1 may be running closer to the maximum capability of the electronics.

Please keep in mind that I'm basing the electronics comments on assumptions and I have no idea what they have under the hood. Without tearing one apart and comparing the difference in the electronics they are using, all we are doing is guessing.

 

[RaceNut]

@RCHeliguy
Yours is a good explanation of how the motor characteristics and power supply work to produce more dynamic range in the DD2. If / when GD releases their test results based on testing various servo candidates for SimuCube2 systems, we should have a better picture of which combinations tend to provide the best results based on hard scientific data. I don't know if GD included any out-runner motors in their lineup but, that's another area where the Podium series may differ from the other DD-systems.

Perhaps, GD has changed course in regard to releasing such information in fear that it might benefit potential competitors in the future.

 

[Soulstoner]

Not to be a pain, but can someone go into detail again why the DD2 can produce slightly better FFB detail over the DD1 if both are set to 100% on the base and the sim is set to preferred strength. I’m still having trouble getting my head around it with some saying yes that’s the case and some saying no it isn’t.

I read a forum post from the Fanatec (owner?) and he said that the DD2 was more a proof of concept of what they were capable of. The motor was much too strong for everyone but 1% of their customers.

Reading that made my choice much easier to go with the DD1.

 

[White Hawk]

I read a forum post from the Fanatec (owner?) and he said that the DD2 was more a proof of concept of what they were capable of. The motor was much too strong for everyone but 1% of their customers.

Reading that made my choice much easier to go with the DD1.

I don’t think you get what I’m talking about, I’m not talking about strength. If you set both to 100% on the base and lower it in the sim to your preferred strength which is the recommended way to set it up which suggests that they are not doing exactly the same thing and the base will react better with it being max on the base and adjusted lower in the sim, does the DD2 have a FFB detail advantage over the DD1 even with the same motor used.

Basically why is it recommended to set the strength that way? If you lose DETAIL by keeping it max in sim and lowering it on the base then the higher NM base should be better when set the recommended way.

Or is it down to some other factor, because at least a couple of people who have used both side by side stated they could feel the difference in detail and a guy from Fanatec stated that would be the case.

Just trying to get to the bottom of this as there is conflicting information, I’m not going to change my order either way as the 5 year warranty and kill switch is a big thing for me.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I don’t think you get what I’m talking about, I’m not talking about strength.

Did my explanation make sense?
With more current on tap the motor can be more responsive while well below the maximum Nm configured. It has more current on tap to start and stop a bit quicker or react faster.

 

[RobertR1]

I don’t think you get what I’m talking about, I’m not talking about strength. If you set both to 100% on the base and lower it in the sim to your preferred strength which is the recommended way to set it up which suggests that they are not doing exactly the same thing and the base will react better with it being max on the base and adjusted lower in the sim, does the DD2 have a FFB detail advantage over the DD1 even with the same motor used.

Basically why is it recommended to set the strength that way? If you lose DETAIL by keeping it max in sim and lowering it on the base then the higher NM base should be better when set the recommended way.

Or is it down to some other factor, because at least a couple of people who have used both side by side stated they could feel the difference in detail and a guy from Fanatec stated that would be the case.

Just trying to get to the bottom of this as there is conflicting information, I’m not going to change my order either way as the 5 year warranty and kill switch is a big thing for me.

Even at the same power, diff motors and electronics will have different characteristics.

Example: 500hp engine. 1 being a V8 naturally aspirated. The other being a V6 Supercharged. Both will have 500hp but both will have different drivability and characteristics.

 

[EsxPaul]

Some more info

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Wow, this thing is fire hazard.
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...E-infothread?p=2463852&viewfull=1#post2463852

 

[EsxPaul]

Wow, this thing is fire hazard.
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...E-infothread?p=2463852&viewfull=1#post2463852

Thanks for the link.

I'm reading some of the replies over there that are saying you shouldn't plug in the power supply without first having a load placed on it.

Really!

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Yeah, that sounds ridiculous. What other voodoo ritual we need to follow to make everything work. Hope they didn't count that as improper use of the product and honored warranty.

 

[Neil Farren]

Thanks for the link.

I'm reading some of the replies over there that are saying you shouldn't plug in the power supply without first having a load placed on it.

Really!

This is what it says in the manual.

Electrical Safety
• The Podium Wheel Base DD1 must be connected to an appropriate power source:
• Always connect the DC side of the power supply to the wheel base before connecting the AC side of the power supply to your wall socket.
• Use only the power supply and power cord that came with your Podium Wheel Base DD1. Replacements may only be issued from an authorised repair centre.
• Do not use non-standard power sources, such as generators or inverters, even if the voltage and frequency appear acceptable. Only use AC power provided by a standard wall outlet.
• To avoid damage, do not expose your Podium Wheel Base DD1 to sources of heat.
• When connecting and / or disconnecting any steering wheel to / from Podium Wheel Base DD1 take care of the pins inside the Quick Release.
• Only use Fanatec® steering wheels with the Podium Wheel Base DD1 base.
• Unplug the power cord of your Podium Wheel Base DD1 during storms or when unused for long periods of time.
• If the Podium Wheel Base DD1 becomes damaged in any way, stop using it immediately and contact Fanatec® Customer Support.

 

[EsxPaul]

This is what it says in the manual.

Thanks for that. I'd be amazed if not doing that would result in damage to the psu though.

I guess I'm more surprised at certain posters (not here) implying that it could be the cause of the PSU going up in smoke.

Just to be clear, that's not being implied by Fanatec and apparently they were very prompt in supporting the user who experienced the issue which is good to see.

 

[Neil Farren]

Thanks for that. I'd be amazed if not doing that would result in damage to the psu though.

I guess I'm more surprised at certain posters (not here) implying that it could be the cause of the PSU going up in smoke.

Just to be clear, that's not being implied by Fanatec and apparently they were very prompt in supporting the user who experienced the issue which is good to see.

Yeah, probably just a faulty PSU. My PC PSU when pop a month ago. Stuff happens. Lets hope it's just a one off.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Yeah, that sounds ridiculous. What other voodoo ritual we need to follow to make everything work. Hope they didn't count that as improper use of the product and honored warranty.

I know that I wire everything up in my rig and add AC last as a natural course of action. In fact given the type of connector used to connect the PS to the base, I can't imagine doing it any other way. The PS to wheelbase connector is the type of connector that you do not want to plug and unplug much.

I made a comment a while back about not being a fan of the bulky military grade connectors. This may be a valid justification for them. In fact I recently went to a Neutrik 8 pole connectors for my 4 transducers on my rig. It has LARGE contact areas that are designed to simultaneously be put in contact and I like the design quite a bit. Easy insert, slight twist and positive lock. Of course in this case it is much more streamlined with a single connection taking the place of 8 separate plugs.

The connector Fanatec is using is perfectly fine and appropriate, but it is not over engineered like a large military connector. I can't see ever running into that issue for most people. I've seen many other devices that very specifically say that the PS should be plugged in before plugging into the wall.

The only way I could see this happening would be accidentally, if you pulled on the power cable while it was on and it had an intermittent connection which is never a good thing.