The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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@MADShootStuff I understand you're frustration. I had the same. I never bothered to chase it up though and just waited until it arrived. Like I've said before I'd allow 4 weeks from placing the order before being worried. Of course if there is something wrong in between it would be nice to have it fixed sooner rather than waiting a month to find out they forgot to process the delivery.

I've been in contact with Norman once, regarding payment. That was pretty straight forward and I never had an email not replied to or not sent.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I had waited over 4 weeks and wish I hadn't now!

I finally got a message through to Kinetik and they got me the tracking number. Apparently it's still in Hamburg. No updates since the 20th. Just put in an inquiry with DHL customer service...
 

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I noticed that the Kinetik website has completely changed since I ordered in November.. I had to make a new account. The links in the GitHub Shoppinglist don't work anymore, but you can still find the parts by entering the part numbers in the search bar (i.e. H950N1010z for the profile). On the German forum it was mentioned that they were completely overhauling their shop and ordering system, so maybe they have been busy with these changes, but also maybe some orders were negatively affected by this overhaul? I'd call them and ask if your order wasn't lost in the chaos?
 
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Well, it looks like they shipped it when they said they did but DHL hasn't moved it. Kinda disappointed for nearly 100$ shipping!

Anyone reading this thinking of jumping in to the build, don't let this stop you - I seem to be the only one this has happened to.
 
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Is there a video tutorial for the actuator assembly? It might make more sense with the parts 'in hand' but I do find the processes outlined in the written instructions a little... vague.
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/Actuator
You have to trust me when I say that if you follow the instructions with the bits in front of you, you won’t run into trouble... it is a straightforward assembly, you can’t really go wrong.
 
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Is there a video tutorial for the actuator assembly? It might make more sense with the parts 'in hand' but I do find the processes outlined in the written instructions a little... vague.
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/Actuator
People finished it without any questions in Forums and they were also no Specialists in anything..they Just used the Wiki with parts in their Hand .. they Maximum build Ikea Things begore and realized Afterwards that it is better read the Manual before ( Like me with Ikea. )
Get all you need and use the Wiki .. no Video can prevent you Mount the fixed Bearing upside down or Connect IT to the wrong Numbers on db25 connector :)
 
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Regarding the ball nut.. I never specifically ordered a particular size.. and certainly did not request 50mm. I sent her the picture from the original shopping list with all the dimensions.
I’m not going to pull my system apart to check.. but everything has been working as advertised so I assume all is ok.
 
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Regarding the ball nut.. I never specifically ordered a particular size.. and certainly did not request 50mm. I sent her the picture from the original shopping list with all the dimensions.
I’m not going to pull my system apart to check.. but everything has been working as advertised so I assume all is ok.

I thought that was the case.I'm sure yours are correct or they would not have bolted down. I wonder if just the one person she mentioned got the 50mm nut or if others did to? I'm biting nails waiting to get off work to check mine!
 
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I did a search on giphy for "tantrum!" The Kinetic order are the last pieces needed. I literally have every single part, screw, and tool perfectly laid out on my dining table ready to assemble the actuators!

Good time to put in a set Screw, machine yer shaft, and Key your coupling.... just sayin while yer waitin...:) Help avoid slippage lol...its what I did!
 
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Hi guys,
First post here awesome thread. I have a quick question, my order is with Emily but she is querying the nut on the ball screw L=50 from the drawing saying she has had a complaint that its too long. I'm thinking its fine just double checking?

I am the guy she is referring to. I have printed one slider, and the counter bore isn't deep enough for the longer nut as mentioned. Not sure the difference of the 1605 to the 1604 screw, but you need the shorter nut so it fits right. It appears from her 'catalog' page that the shorter nut is for the 1604 screw. The longer nut is about 7mm too long. Any ideas what the difference is with the SFU 1604-4 screw?
 

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I am the guy she is referring to. I have printed one slider, and the counter bore isn't deep enough for the longer nut as mentioned. Not sure the difference of the 1605 to the 1604 screw, but you need the shorter nut so it fits right. It appears from her 'catalog' page that the shorter nut is for the 1604 screw. The longer nut is about 7mm too long. Any ideas what the difference is with the SFU 1604-4 screw?


I just checked and mine and they are the correct 42 mm total nut length. It was invoiced as a 1605. (Also, the ballnuts are each labeled 1605) Be careful requesting `1604's!

I think Emily is in error.

Simon, and everyone after seems to have got the correct 42mm nut. Something has changed on their end? They seem to have intermittent issues providing the correct speced ballscrews. Someone else here got them from her with the wrong thread length.....
 
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