The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Steve D · Dec 3, 2018

Mascot said:
Wow, just spent the last hour catching up with latest happenings. For some reason I wasn't getting alerts for this thread (which often seem to be hit-and-miss on RD for some reason).

@Steve D: Good man taking the plunge! I'll be following your build with great interest and will be looking forward to getting your tried-and-tested UK parts list with sources and prices and pros and cons, and your solution for the printed parts. If you don't buy a printer and go the DIY route then with the time it would take a print shop to make them I'm wondering if a machine shop could possibly make them from nylon billet for a better price.
Are you also planning on running yours with the NLMv3, at least initially?

Ref the regular lubricating, it would make sense to me to have a small hole just big enough for the pipe nozzle on a PTFE spray can (say, 2mm) so that lube can be applied from the outside. I can't imagine this hole would leak noise but eBay is awash with rubber bungs of all shapes and sizes.

Hi Steve,

Servos and profile ordered and so yep, the journey has started.

Can't quite believe it and I feel very lucky.

Re. the 3d printed parts I'll be exploring options albeit I'm a bit pressed at this time of year so I'm just trying to get organised to make a start early to mid-January. I am planning on leaving the NLMv3 in-situ and seeing how it goes but @sjb266's experience and his reply to my questions was pretty much the final piece of the puzzle in terms of me taking the plunge. I also think I'll need to modify my P1 a little as the pedal deck with its brackets on the outside might be an issue with regards mounting the actuators. Hopefully I can slide everything towards the rear by a uniform amount to accommodate mounting an actuator securely at each corner. If not I'll probably move the pedal deck brackets to the inside and shorten the profile.

I swore my tinkering had finished!

sjb266 · Dec 3, 2018

Steve D said:
Hi Steve,

Servos and profile ordered and so yep, the journey has started. Can't quite believe it and I feel very lucky.

I swore my tinkering had finished!

C'mon it's never finished...!

Ringorian · Dec 3, 2018

sjb266 said:
I was surprised how effective the TC effect was.. pretty cool!

Do you mean TL = Traction Loss ?

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

Steve D said:
I also think I'll need to modify my P1 a little as the pedal deck with its brackets on the outside might be an issue with regards mounting the actuators. Hopefully I can slide everything towards the rear by a uniform amount to accommodate mounting an actuator securely at each corner. If not I'll probably move the pedal deck brackets to the inside and shorten the profile.

I swore my tinkering had finished!

You don’t need to cut anything initially, if you have a couple of connector brackets lying around

I mounted my pedal deck like this, until I’ve found some time to get them cut.

Then it fits like this:

Which has the EXACT same distances (actuator to actuator) as one of the beta-testers (vsp) of this project, so you will get good motion with the stock settings.

Steve D · Dec 3, 2018

HugoB said:
You don’t need to cut anything initially, if you have a couple of connector brackets lying around I mounted my pedal deck like this, until I’ve found some time to get them cut.

Then it fits like this:

Which has the EXACT same distances (actuator to actuator) as one of the beta-testers (vsp) of this project, so you will get good motion with the stock settings.

@HugoB thanks very much for that. Very useful indeed.

So my idea with regards mounting the front actuators right at the front of the rig will be a non-starter? Good to know and means I can sort out the pedal deck now in preparation rather than wait to offer everything up. For info, what is the front to rear distance between actuators?

Cheers!

Steve

sjb266 · Dec 3, 2018

Ringorian said:
Do you mean TL = Traction Loss ?

Yes that's the one! Traction Loss...!

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

Steve D said:
@HugoB thanks very much for that. Very useful indeed.

So my idea with regards mounting the front actuators right at the front of the rig will be a non-starter? Good to know and means I can sort out the pedal deck now in preparation rather than wait to offer everything up. For info, what is the front to rear distance between actuators?

Cheers!

Steve

My actuator placement measures 98 cm between the axle centers, front to back. I read that the beta tester 'vsp' has 98 cm too. I can't mount them any further back, but it looks the same as with the designer of the project saxxon, so it should also be good. Only the width of the P1 is probably a bit narrower than most, but that will only mean your roll will be more effective if I'm not misstaken.

Check vsp‘s post here:
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...-Coming-Soon?p=2400529&viewfull=1#post2400529
He says that if you move the actuators in front of the pedal deck, you will get a different motion feeling at your pedals. Maybe you like it? I just left it like his, so I know the stock SimFeedback settings work as intended.

anton_Chez · Dec 3, 2018

I am going to have to make some adjustments at the pedal end, too. With GT1 having its own uprights to mount the top end of the pedal deck to, they are in the exact spot the actuator needs to be. I can hopefully move them to the inside, or, move them closer to the monitor and wheel deck uprights to create some space. I was thinking about putting the actuators inside the frame, almost in front of the pedals but that surely will interfere with balance and overall feel so I am hoping the other way works.

I like the way my pedal deck is on the GT1 as it allows me to raise the pedals super high if I wanted a more formula cockpit feel. I've only ever moved them once or twice as I don't usually drive formula cars but the option is nice to have. Hopefully the future actuators don't hinder this arrangement.

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

Dirt Rally with pitch and roll at 60 is really fun in VR

It actually works quite good and the rig hasn't moved yet, even after some hard crashes tumbling down the mountain

Unfortunately you can only choose (under HUD settings) 'Vehicle Camera Motion' on or off, nothing in between, which means camera locked to horizon, or camera locked to car. There's nothing like the 'Real Head Motion' plugin for AC. But it’s mighty fun indeed with motion.

Steve D · Dec 3, 2018

HugoB said:
Yeah they are way more durable than a breadboard I bought them from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00LOG8M68
..plenty in there for the whole project.

In case anybody’s looking for the Arduino crew shield:
https://www.exp-tech.de/en/platform...atform/shields/4589/seeed-studio-screw-shield

Also, to get power to your motor controllers, you can take one of these (its 3 meters, so plenty):
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000PENEPE/
Cut off the device plug, take an extra length off that you can use to devide the power to all four controllers (you’ll need to strip the cover off which is a bit finicky), strip and use those Wago connectors again like this:

(sorry for the bad picture). You’ll need some fork terminals to attach the wires securely to the motor controllers. Try to find the same size as on the included motor power wires, I used these:
https://www.conrad.at/de/gabelkabel...u-conrad-components-745325-100-st-745325.html

That’s it for the electronics actually.

@HugoB, many thanks for that but I've a couple of 'numb-nuts' questions about the wiring please.

1. Arduino wiring - I take it I require the male-to-male type?
2. Are the Wago connectors used instead of a breadboard?

I might also need some advice / clearer pics for the wiring solution you propose to get power to the motor controllers. I've plenty of UK-plug spec kettle leads I can cut down and strip but I'd appreciate some clarification with regards connecting those wires in to and out of the Wago connectors and joining everything up.

Cheers,

Steve

AlexP37 · Dec 3, 2018

Does anyone have a triple monitor setup with the sfx 100 ?

I would like to see pictures of it.
In my old setup i had my monitors right behind the steering wheel for ofcourse the best immersion.
Now that we have movement can the monitors still be placed right behind the wheel ?

Monitors mounted on the rig dont count, i am using a sim lab triple monitor stand.
Would like too see how people have this setup.

C64 · Dec 3, 2018

Steve D said:
@HugoB, many thanks for that but I've a couple of 'numb-nuts' questions about the wiring please.

1. Arduino wiring - I take it I require the male-to-male type?
2. Are the Wago connectors used instead of a breadboard?

I might also need some advice / clearer pics for the wiring solution you propose to get power to the motor controllers. I've plenty of UK-plug spec kettle leads I can cut down and strip but I'd appreciate some clarification with regards connecting those wires in to and out of the Wago connectors and joining everything up.

Cheers,

Steve

I bought a 8 way surge protected gang plug with a long lead, each socket has a switch on it. I used separate kettle/computer leads I had lying around for each controller. Cut the socket end off the leads, stripped the wires back and crimped Y connectors on the ends. It’s not the tidiest solution but it does allow each controller to be separately fused and isolated with a switch.

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

Steve D said:
@HugoB, many thanks for that but I've a couple of 'numb-nuts' questions about the wiring please.

1. Arduino wiring - I take it I require the male-to-male type?
2. Are the Wago connectors used instead of a breadboard?

I might also need some advice / clearer pics for the wiring solution you propose to get power to the motor controllers. I've plenty of UK-plug spec kettle leads I can cut down and strip but I'd appreciate some clarification with regards connecting those wires in to and out of the Wago connectors and joining everything up.

Cheers,

Steve

1. you can use any wires that fit, these are only low current wires, so anything around 23 AWG is fine. I used these wires:

you need to strip them with a wire stripper:

and just screw them into the D-Sub breakout board and the Arduino screw shield (if you have one). If you don't have an Arduino screw shield, you can use the wires from the GitHub shopping list, they will plug into the Arduino. I just wanted a more robust installation, that's why I opted for the screw shield.

2. yes, I use Wago connectors instead of the bread board, again because this is more robust. Just plug the wires that you need to combine into the same Wago connector, that's why a 5 gate Wago is perfect, one for the Arduino wire and 4 going to the D-Sub breakout boards.

For the 240V wiring, to be honest if you are not familiar with 240V, I would do it the easy way, just take 4 kettle leads, cut the device end off, strip and crimp y connectors on. Attach them to the motor controllers and plug them all into a surge protected 4 socket extension lead. That's the safest and easiest way. Wiring like this:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(I just used one 240V kettle lead and split it into four outputs, inside the electrics casing, using 3x 5 gate Wago. I would only recommend this if you feel comfortable with 240V

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

This seems like a good deal for the Arduino wiring (if you have a srew shield and can screw everything in):

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07G72DRKC

It's heat resistant up to 200C and flexible, so won't break easily. 22 AWG is fine.

Wmacky · Dec 3, 2018

Edit -Found the answer!

Steve D · Dec 3, 2018

@HugoB & @C64 Cheers fellas!

It's a lot clearer now, especially having read back a few more pages, which I somehow missed and got a bit confused as a result. Not hard! Everything on the electronics and wiring side is now ordered and re. powering the controllers, I'll stick with the more straightforward recommendation.

HugoB · Dec 3, 2018

Had a blast in Dirt Rally. I've set pitch and roll to +/- 60 in SimFeedback, this it what it looks like and sounds:

I've never tried Dirt Rally before, it's friggin honest fun

I set it up because a friend of mine is coming by, he's a professional rally driver but is struggling to cope with the high costs involved, I told him he should build a racing simulator with motion, it could be a good alternative

Mascot · Dec 4, 2018

sjb266 said:
Ok so I got it all going together...

SIMfeedback - Assetto Cora’s default setttings

Simvibe -

engine with Harmonics and load x 2 for front and rear

gear shift x 3 @ different frequencies

Next Level v3

Surge with front bias .3

Sway 20%

This is sim racing heaven! I think I just need some sort of simwind setup and I’ll be happy.. the V3 adds so much to the overall experience I’m really glad I tried it...

I’ll get the whole thing tidied up.. cable management etc and post a video..

But thanks so much to Michael and the Beta testers for this amazing piece of tech..

I bet this is pretty amazing. Any chance of posting some videos from different angles of the SFX100 and NLMv3 working together in different scenarios (with game audio off, naturally)?

frankrizzo2 · Dec 4, 2018

Wmacky said:
Well this is a very interesting post I had missed!

According to Hugos findings Max wattage was only 180. At 110V that's just 2 amp!. Even pulling say 1000 watts, that's only 10 Amps at 110V right?

SO if I can get around the initial start up amp draw, I could run this on a standard US 110V 15 Amp circuit using a 110V to 220V transformer that's been mentioned!

No need for a electrician to run a dedicated 220V service, and the real plus is the the unit could be moved to other rooms if needed.

Am I missing something?

I hope this is true. I'm also on 110v waiting for a working solution to building this system

Mr Latte · Dec 4, 2018

Amazon UK for above wiring Here

Has anyone tried their seat attached to medium-firm isolators? Curious if this helps increase sensation or just makes it feel odd.