The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Steve D]

I ordered all the stuff in early October and completed the build at the end of October... Total cost was £1450... But I already had a printer. I have not made a list of where I got the bits but I can if it would help you.

That would be really appreciated. Cheers for that!

Steve

 

[HugoB]

Hi Hugo, just to make sure -since I will start building 1 sfx100 for testing purposes- the PTFE dry lube is for example WS40, right? Also, what do you use it for: lubricating the slider )in my case made with pla)?

I have been thinking about what moving parts should be lubricated, and I think there are 3:
-the slider contacting the walls of the alu hole (Wd40?)
-ball nut (grease or wd40?)
-linear bearing (grease or wd40?)

Thx in advance for support.

Yes, that's what has been recommended on the German forum (and HoiHman), so I used that.
-the slider contacting the walls of the alu hole: use 'WD-40 Specialist Dry Lubricant PTFE'

(https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007JIB410)
Apply a few times, the PLA can absorb a little. Also apply to the aluminum walls.

-ball nut: I used grease, apply using this contraption:

(https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01GVRDXDQ)
Attach via the grease nipple, then slowly press it in while turning the screw all the way up and down to get the whole screw greased. Alternatively this grease should also work very good, it was recommended on the German forum. I haven't tried it though, but the attributes look good:

(https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00RM3V70U)

-linear bearing: the same grease as for the ballscrew, something that sticks

 

[HoiHman]

@Steve D
..
I kinda question how long will it be to someone is building and selling these as complete options.

Keen to follow your progress....

The license prohibits commerical use. The project is meant to be DIY, also don't forget liability if something goes wrong.

 

[HugoB]

Wow @HoiHman I turned down the servo controller smoothing to 22 like you said and turned off the global smoothing in SimFeedback (are you also running without global smoothing?):

I can feel MUCH finer road texture details! Like you said, a post stamp lying on the track would be felt Definitely a big difference and very well suited for F1/LMP1 type of cars. I think I'll keep it like this.

A question for you in AC profile:
- how do you use the 'Traction Loss' effect? I find it kind of harsh the way it knocks me when activated.. have you changed the curve?
- I increased Pitch to 65 and Roll to 50 already, what are your numbers?

 

[metalnwood]

OK I have a plan. I hibernate and not read any of these forums for another 6 weeks until I have my fourth motor and am finished.

It's too much to read knowing I am 3/4 there but still a way to go

 

[HoiHman]

@HugoB Currently i have the TC effect disabled, since it kind of a hit and miss.

Not at my race PC right now, but i think my values are lower. Are you actually reaching 65 pitch in game, because that's quite a lot.

Turn on live data in the expert mode, see what the max output pitch from the game is and what your output is at that range. Then you know how much pitch you are actually using.

Be carefull with setting values too high, if you go off roll, pitch, surge can be combined and at high speed setting your rig will start walking.

 

[HugoB]

I will do that. It doesn’t seem like a lot now, but maybe you’re right and the game doesn’t output so much. With a hard crash though, it feels like I’m flying through my room, but until now everything has stayed in place

Have you turned global smoothness off completely? I saw it in your picture where you show ‘rumble’.

 

[Ringorian]

About TL, i try with The effect only with every Car i Like ... Until it Works.. use smoothing on it . Much if needed.

 

[HoiHman]

Yes i have turned down global smoothness completely depending of the car / track combination.

Use expert tuning, so see what the max value is you are reaching when you stay ON track, than adjust the graph so that it stops right there. This way the max movement is limited to what you experience on track and the rig doesn't completely go crazy when you go off.

 

[Ringorian]

Addition for TL .. expert Mode should bei used .. forgot about that

 

[HugoB]

Yes i have turned down global smoothness completely depending of the car / track combination.

Use expert tuning, so see what the max value is you are reaching when you stay ON track, than adjust the graph so that it stops right there. This way the max movement is limited to what you experience on track and the rig doesn't completely go crazy when you go off.

That’s actually very smart

 

[Wmacky]

3000 W is only if they are being forced to move while stuck, if I understand correctly? This cannot happen in our application. I read somewhere that the 3000W is also drawn for a split second at startup, that’s why you need a solid 15A fuse while using 230V or higher wile using 110V. But maybe slow fuses can help here.

Also, they have an overload protection, so that’s why the designer didn’t need end stop switches: the motor will just sense overload and stop.

I put a Watt meter on to measure normal usage (with me sitting on the rig), because I was interested as well. Measurements are for all four servo's combined:

- while idle (SimFeedback in stop mode) they use around 35W

- when you press ‘start’ in SimFeedback, but you don’t have a game running active, so only in lifted up position, they use around 50W

- when you drive normally on track in AC with stock settings, I saw around 80-100W average

- the highest draw was off track with large bumps and violent movements, I saw one peak of 180W

So max peak of 45W per motor is astonishing. I guess they are seriously overpowered for our usage, which means a few good things:

- they will last forever
- they will use only a tiny fraction as much electricity as they are rated for
- you can be confident that they are delivering what you ask for and no motion details are lost
- you can make gigantic rigs with multiple monitors and double seating
- the servo controllers will stay relatively cool, because heat is only dissipated when load increases if I’m correct?

Well this is a very interesting post I had missed!

According to Hugos findings Max wattage was only 180. At 110V that's just 2 amp!. Even pulling say 1000 watts, that's only 10 Amps at 110V right?

SO if I can get around the initial start up amp draw, I could run this on a standard US 110V 15 Amp circuit using a 110V to 220V transformer that's been mentioned!


No need for a electrician to run a dedicated 220V service, and the real plus is the the unit could be moved to other rooms if needed.

Am I missing something?

 

[HugoB]

About the startup split second current draw: its best to know for sure how much exactly, before you purchase anything. I cant measure it because my wattmeter only shows values after startup. But it does have a max watts cutoff safety feature at 3600 watts and that never trips, so it should be below that at least. I think you'll be safe. Maybe the current is small enough that it doesn't trip your breakers, read this: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/62079/where-can-i-find-information-on-slow-blow-breakers

Also, I measured the watt usage a few times and it's always around 100 for normal usage, with peaks around 200 max for very large off-track crashes etc. I was so surprised, that I didn't believe it and thought my wattmeter was wrong, but I checked with a 70W Philips light bulb and it showed 71W, so it's definitely working correctly

Here's the 110V -> 240V converter again for anyone on a 110V considering this:
https://converter-shop.com/products...r-transformer-transformator-110v-120v-230v-eu

 

[C64]

Well this is a very interesting post I had missed!

According to Hugos findings Max wattage was only 180. At 110V that's just 2 amp!. Even pulling say 1000 watts, that's only 10 Amps at 110V right?

SO if I can get around the initial start up amp draw, I could run this on a standard US 110V 15 Amp circuit using a 110V to 220V transformer that's been mentioned!


No need for a electrician to run a dedicated 220V service, and the real plus is the the unit could be moved to other rooms if needed.

Am I missing something?

Don't think you are missing anything, I am in the UK (240v), I have my complete rig - PC, OSW, Monitor, Rift, SFX100, 2kw radiant heater all running from a single plug with a simple 13a wire fuse. I flick the switch and everything turns on at the same time... without any issues. I ran the SFX100 for 1 hour round Sebring and all motors and controllers remained cool. My rig must be 200kg+ with me in it which is pretty typical. HugoB's values appear perfectly reasonable to me and indicate that using an off the shelf step up converter should be more than adequate.

 

[Mr Latte]

If possible can someone that is building/lubing/spraying just take a few quick images to highlight this process.

 

[HugoB]

A solution to get your simulator and SimFeedback software together in your Oculus Rift, for tuning purposes, is to use the experimental setting 'Virtual Desktop Panel Pullout' in the Oculus tray settings under 'Experiments':

(sorry for bad pic its from my goggles with phone)

You need your game to be running in windowed mode (mirrored from VR of course) on your desktop, then you can 'pull' it out of your virtual desktop by pointing at it with your Oculus touch controller and pressing A and then grip button, use your joystick to move it closer or further away and place it somewhere. Then aim at you SimFeedback software and do the same. Result:

(sorry for bad quality its from my goggles with phone)

You can even use your mouse to change the settings like normal. And you can find these ‘pulled’ windows in your Oculus tray if you lose sight of them.

 

[AussieSim]

Also, to get power to your motor controllers, you can take one of these (its 3 meters, so plenty):
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000PENEPE/
Cut off the device plug, take an extra length off that you can use to devide the power to all four controllers (you’ll need to strip the cover off which is a bit finicky), strip and use those Wago connectors again like this:

I've copied the VirtualRacing image with Wago connectors for the Arduino / DB25 breakout wiring.

However for a non-electrician, I don't think it is safe to be wiring up AC Mains electricity with the Wago connectors (that is what Wago connectors are designed for) as there is a definite risk of electrocution or fire. I think it is much safer for a DIY hobbyist to use 4 electrical 10A leads, terminate them with Y connectors, and attach them to a 4 outlet electrical power board (preferably one with built in surge protection and safety switch)

 

[sjb266]

I was surprised how effective the TC effect was.. pretty cool!

 

[HugoB]

I've copied the VirtualRacing image with Wago connectors for the Arduino / DB25 breakout wiring.

However for a non-electrician, I don't think it is safe to be wiring up AC Mains electricity with the Wago connectors (that is what Wago connectors are designed for) as there is a definite risk of electrocution or fire. I think it is much safer for a DIY hobbyist to use 4 electrical 10A leads, terminate them with Y connectors, and attach them to a 4 outlet electrical power board (preferably one with built in surge protection and safety switch)

That’s definitely the safer solution. You mean something like this:

With four of these from the motor controllers:

And cut the ‘device end’ off, strip, and crimp with these to attech them to the motor controllers:

That would be a more robust solution. I didn’t opt for it because I like a small package and my surge protection is at the wall plug side, but there is always a risk of short circuit or even fire with DIY electrical projects. If anybody doesn’t feel comfortable working with 240V, hire an electrician. Btw those Wago connectors ARE specifically made for 240V.. they are rated up to 450V and 32A.. and my electronics housing never exceeds 34 degrees Celsius. Nevertheless, I keep a switch to kill all power to everything within reach of my rigs seat. And I keep the motor controllers housing within sight and uncovered. I’m even looking into building a thermal cutoff safety circuit into the housing, that will kill all power to the rig when a temperature above ie 45 degrees is sensed.

 

[Mascot]

Wow, just spent the last hour catching up with latest happenings. For some reason I wasn't getting alerts for this thread (which often seem to be hit-and-miss on RD for some reason).

@Steve D: Good man taking the plunge! I'll be following your build with great interest and will be looking forward to getting your tried-and-tested UK parts list with sources and prices and pros and cons, and your solution for the printed parts. If you don't buy a printer and go the DIY route then with the time it would take a print shop to make them I'm wondering if a machine shop could possibly make them from nylon billet for a better price.
Are you also planning on running yours with the NLMv3, at least initially?

Ref the regular lubricating, it would make sense to me to have a small hole just big enough for the pipe nozzle on a PTFE spray can (say, 2mm) so that lube can be applied from the outside. I can't imagine this hole would leak noise but eBay is awash with rubber bungs of all shapes and sizes.