The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

thenic123 · Jan 10, 2020

MrSnoebel said:
Step by step.. I'm getting there ;-)

View attachment 338992 View attachment 338993

If anyone needs a SFX100, I got 4 boards spare. Minimum order to make them was 5..
Just send me a PM.

@Pyronious Thanks for all the effort you put into making the designs!

Next adventure is putting the helicoils in. I'm planning to use a 8mm treaded (35cm) end with a big nut to make 100% sure it's aligning properly. Did one by hand just using the 1/4 hex, doable with some force, but not 100% straight. Hope the treaded end will prevent this from happening.

*edit*
1 hour later I picked up the hardware needed, 1 euro for the treaded end, 20 cents for the nuts

Works as I hoped it would :
View attachment 339040
View attachment 339041

15 mins later :
View attachment 339042

Last millimeter done with 1/4 hex, secured with loctite 271.

*edit 2*
2 hours later, all done !!

Why is everything hard to find in stores in Australia?! I went to my local bunnings to buy the above items and they only had imperial types in stainless/zinc and M8 galvanized rod which is not really suiltable cause the thread is too coarse. Guess I'll try a couple of local bolt places on Monday, they're shut for weekend.

Paul Mullins · Jan 10, 2020

thenic123 said:
Why is everything hard to find in stores in Australia?! I went to my local bunnings to buy the above items and they only had imperial types in stainless/zinc and M8 galvanized rod which is not really suiltable cause the thread is too coarse. Guess I'll try a couple of local bolt places on Monday, they're shut for weekend.

I bought all my hardware from www.unitedfasteners.com.au

Paul Mullins · Jan 10, 2020

I have seen a few questions lately about power wiring to the servo drives..

My solution was to modify a DELL 13 way server rack PDU (Power Distribution Unit) by adding in a solid state relay to switch power to 12 of the IEC sockets. The SSR is switched on using the PC's +12V. I ran a Molex connector out of the back of the PDU and up to a rear panel mounted Molex connector on the PC typically used for the old IDE HDD's.

As you can see, the PDU has very heavy duty wiring and rated at 30A. That said, I'm only running my rig from a 15A (@ 240V) power point which is more than capable of supporting all my equipment.

I wired the 13th socket to be 'hot' all the time, which supplies power to the PC.

The beauty of this set up is only having one power cord coming from my server rack and not having to muck around switching things on and off between race sessions. Powering up the PC just turns everything on at once and shutting down the PC obviously turns everything off.

I modified four IEC power cords - one wired for each of the servo controllers to crimped ring terminals. To the OSW driver (bottom left), audio amp (bottom right) and the (yet to be included in this photo) 4 channel tactile rack mounted amp, I used off the shelf IEC extension cables which mate to their respective IEC sockets. These are available in 30cm, 50cm, 1M lengths from Ebay, so it gives a neat, professional finish inside the cabinet without excess cabling.

Hopefully it can help someone out..

roundabout · Jan 10, 2020

growe19 said:
I'm having difficulty with printing the sliders. At 100% they're too large for the aluminium profile. At 98% too small. At 99% they're perfect but the bearing doesn't fit into its hole. I'm using someone elses printer and have no knowledge or ability to change these files. I'm paying for printer time and filament.

Is anyone able to provide an STL for the slider that is at 99% total outer size but with all the other holes for building and fixing together not changed from the 100% version. Thanks

I had the same issue and found a comment somewhere by Spikar regarding a modified .stl which he had produced. He sent this to me and has confirmed OK to share.

Slider reduced 50.5 larger holes

I have printed these and they seem to fit well in profile and tubes fit in slider but I have yet to fully assemble and test.

Wonderboy · Jan 12, 2020

Pretty stoked guys, I finished assembly of my first SFX100 Actuator.

However on the second I noticed there’s a 0.03mm difference in thickness of the neck of the ball screw when comparing it to other ball screws that work with the same fixed bearing. I’m unable to get the fixed bearing down far enough to get the ball screw nut on. I’ve tried swapping out each ball screw and fixed bearings and I’ve narrowed it down to the ball screw. I can also see marking on the ball screw where the fixed bearing is gripping. Is this common? I’m quite worried now that I’ll have to wait weeks for a replacement. Is this likely the cause? Is 0.03mm likely to be an issue. Seems so just need to confirm.

Mark S. Rasmussen · Jan 12, 2020

Wonderboy said:
Pretty stoked guys, I finished assembly of my first SFX100 Actuator.

However on the second I noticed there’s a 0.03mm difference in thickness of the neck of the ball screw when comparing it to other ball screws that work with the same fixed bearing. I’m unable to get the fixed bearing down far enough to get the ball screw nut on. I’ve tried swapping out each ball screw and fixed bearings and I’ve narrowed it down to the ball screw. I can also see marking on the ball screw where the fixed bearing is gripping. Is this common? I’m quite worried now that I’ll have to wait weeks for a replacement. Is this likely the cause? Is 0.03mm likely to be an issue. Seems so just need to confirm.

I had a single ball screw neck that was ever so slightly larger than the others, making it difficult to get the ball screw on it. I managed to force it on enough for about 5mm of thread to show, while definitely not all the way there. With just the bit of thread available, I could put the nut on there and while tightening the nut, the ball screw was forced into place. Definitely a tight fit, but it all worked out. While forcing it on, I refrained from using any kind of hammers, to avoid damaging it. I simply put on gloves and tried to put as much of my body weight on top of it.

thenic123 · Jan 13, 2020

I decided to tackle the dreaded thread inserts. I used the method by MrSnoebel, thanks for sharing by the way. Found the threaded rod and big nut at a local bolt shop. It took me about 2-3 hours cause the big nut kept jamming half the time. I also had to turn the rod all the way to get it out once one insert was in, that was due to the other side having been completed.
When it jammed, I had to wind out the rod and put it in a vice and undo it.
I ended up using washers and that helped a bit. I'm glad that part of the build is over.

Megahowler · Jan 14, 2020

Easily the worst part of the whole project is those inserts.. Everything else was fairly easy

hazardpro · Jan 14, 2020

Im surprised so many people are having issues with this... makes me hope mine are ok... took me like 20mins and went in just fine simply using a hex key and socket set.

PS not trying to blow my own....

just made me wonder if I did something different to everyone else.

BluePotato00 · Jan 14, 2020

No issues here when I did the inserts. Might have been closer to an hour of work for me and I ended with aching hands and arms!

ThugUK · Jan 14, 2020

hazardpro said:
Im surprised so many people are having issues with this... makes me hope mine are ok... took me like 20mins and went in just fine simply using a hex key and socket set.

PS not trying to blow my own.... just made me wonder if I did something different to everyone else.

There are 2 types being supplied where some were not cutting in as easily as the others.
Possibly you had the easier ones.

Snajrog · Jan 14, 2020

Inserts, a video of my insert installation method.

A quick and easy insert installation method.

Spikar · Jan 15, 2020

I wanna extend my motor cable and encoder cable.
I'm building a small enclosure so all motor cables are placed for easy access.
What's the best cable to buy?
I'd need 4 core and 15 core.
What size etc?
Anyone can recommend?(aus preferably)

Snajrog · Jan 15, 2020

I got mine from David on AliExpress. Same guy who supplied the servos. Any length you need.

Spikar · Jan 16, 2020

hazardpro said:
Im surprised so many people are having issues with this... makes me hope mine are ok... took me like 20mins and went in just fine simply using a hex key and socket set.

PS not trying to blow my own.... just made me wonder if I did something different to everyone else.

same. had no issues and did it in about 30 mins or so

BluePotato00 · Jan 16, 2020

I'm going to relocate my servo motor controllers to a proper rack, but I've never used one before. I'm considering this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12U-Wallmo...-Network-Rack-Locking-Glass-Door/182871721061

Will this work with the form factor of the motor controllers? The description says "Fits All Standard 19" Rack Mount Devices Such As Network Switches, Access Points, And Others."

But the servo controllers aren't 19" across:

Thanks for your guidance.

hazardpro · Jan 16, 2020

BluePotato00 said:
I'm going to relocate my servo motor controllers to a proper rack, but I've never used one before. I'm considering this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12U-Wallmo...-Network-Rack-Locking-Glass-Door/182871721061

Will this work with the form factor of the motor controllers? The description says "Fits All Standard 19" Rack Mount Devices Such As Network Switches, Access Points, And Others."

But the servo controllers aren't 19" across:

Thanks for your guidance.

Plenty big enough. I used a 9U (9 rows) and had enough room to mount a shelf above them.

You will need yo make some kind of backing plate to mount them to.

BluePotato00 · Jan 16, 2020

hazardpro said:
Plenty big enough. I used a 9U (9 rows) and had enough room to mount a shelf above them.

You will need yo make some kind of backing plate to mount them to.

Thanks for the reply. Are there rack mounts available that would accommodate the form factor of these servo controllers without having to build a separate backing plate?