The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Guys, I made a donation on the 5th of Januar for the Expert mode on the Simfeedback software. Does anybody when i can expect a reply on the donation? Best regards, Klaus F Andersen

I think it usually comes pretty quick, although I donated last month and something went wrong. After a week or so I ended up messaging saxxon through the messaging system on these forums and he quickly got me access.
 
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To fit the SFX100 motion system to an aluminium profile rig, is the preferred base 40 x 160 profile like in the P1 or 40 x 120 profile?

There’s a decent difference in the moment of inertia of the profiles in the x and y axis, but do you feel anything through the 40 x 120 where people wished they had the 40 x 160 profile base?
 
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I had the same question. But even 80x40 is more than strong enough to make a really solid base. I used 120x40, simply because it looks just a little better. The 160x40 is IMHO overkill, but you see it a lot because most use the P1x RIG from Simlab.

For the license, I got it in a couple of days. @saxxon66 Thx for that.
 
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Building up the mindset to build the actuators. I'm still having to buy a few things and also still trying to find a POA for the thread inserts.

Will the below power cable be suitable for daisy chaining the drivers power?

What cable with plug-in capability can be used for the E stop?

Should I replace the servo power cable with shielded ones or use anti-emi tape?

I've bought a 1/4" hex driver with extended shaft for the thread inserts. Should I use a countersinking bit to chamfer the holes a little for them to bite?
20200109_171538.jpg
 
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Building up the mindset to build the actuators. I'm still having to buy a few things and also still trying to find a POA for the thread inserts.

Will the below power cable be suitable for daisy chaining the drivers power?

What cable with plug-in capability can be used for the E stop?

Should I replace the servo power cable with shielded ones or use anti-emi tape?

I've bought a 1/4" hex driver with extended shaft for the thread inserts. Should I use a countersinking bit to chamfer the holes a little for them to bite?
View attachment 342940
That pic doesn’t really tell you much about the cable. You will want 1.5mm core thickness (no less).

most cables with that fitting would be ok as they are suitable for kettle, microwave etc.
 
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Get a longer power lead. You will probably need it and even if you don't you can cut it to size and it's like a couple of bucks more. Depending how you daisy chain, you need to have some slack to attach each driver without it being too tight and immovable. Plus then the length to the wall socket.
 
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Step by step.. I'm getting there ;-)

View attachment 338992View attachment 338993

If anyone needs a SFX100, I got 4 boards spare. Minimum order to make them was 5..
Just send me a PM.

@Pyronious Thanks for all the effort you put into making the designs!

Next adventure is putting the helicoils in. I'm planning to use a 8mm treaded (35cm) end with a big nut to make 100% sure it's aligning properly. Did one by hand just using the 1/4 hex, doable with some force, but not 100% straight. Hope the treaded end will prevent this from happening.

*edit*
1 hour later I picked up the hardware needed, 1 euro for the treaded end, 20 cents for the nuts :)

Works as I hoped it would :
View attachment 339040
View attachment 339041

15 mins later :
View attachment 339042

Last millimeter done with 1/4 hex, secured with loctite 271.

*edit 2*
2 hours later, all done :) !!

In this post I show a really very simple way of doing the inserts.
 
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O, sorry. I just used a big socket wrench on the large nut. Because it is already lined up in this way, it doesn't need much force to get in place and is 100% straight.
img_0230-jpg.339041


You can see the socket wrench on the right here.
 
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O, sorry. I just used a big socket wrench on the large nut. Because it is already lined up in this way, it doesn't need much force to get in place and is 100% straight.
img_0230-jpg.339041


You can see the socket wrench on the right here.
I used a similar method.. an 80mm M8 Bolt, washer and M8 Nut
Was long enough to line it up perfectly and was able yo use a 13mm Socket to thread it in..
I found this better than a hex key as it protects the threads of the insert while inserting
 
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