The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

AlexP37 · Nov 11, 2018

After some reviews i bougt a anycubic i3 mega. I hope it will get the job done.
All parts are ordered but some take like 6 weeks cause out of stock.

Hope i will be driving with motion around christmas

HoiHman · Nov 11, 2018

AlexP37 said:
After some reviews i bougt a anycubic i3 mega. I hope it will get the job done.
All parts are ordered but some take like 6 weeks cause out of stock.

Hope i will be driving with motion around christmas

That's strange, because i did a alixepress order today and expect all spare parts to arrive within 2-3 max. (except de 30mm rod, which may be the part you are refering to)

DotComRich · Nov 11, 2018

If I wanted to make mine 150mm stroke instead of 100m would it just be a matter of buying a longer hollow shaft and ball screw with a longer housing, then tweaking the settings a bit to allow for more travel? Or would there be a lot more involved with that?

Also in terms of wiring the power for the motors, is it simply a matter of daisy chaining all their power/grounds together then plugging it into a 240v outlet or is some sort of power supply also needed? The wiki doesn't seem to mention this from what I seen.

AlexP37 · Nov 12, 2018

HoiHman said:
That's strange, because i did a alixepress order today and expect all spare parts to arrive within 2-3 max. (except de 30mm rod, which may be the part you are refering to)

Its some parts from germany and amazon that are out of stock. The spindle and some elektronics.

AussieSim · Nov 12, 2018

DotComRich said:
If I wanted to make mine 150mm stroke instead of 100m would it just be a matter of buying a longer hollow shaft and ball screw with a longer housing, then tweaking the settings a bit to allow for more travel? Or would there be a lot more involved with that?

Also in terms of wiring the power for the motors, is it simply a matter of daisy chaining all their power/grounds together then plugging it into a 240v outlet or is some sort of power supply also needed? The wiki doesn't seem to mention this from what I seen.

Regarding the AC mains, perhaps the safest DIY method is to buy a RCD/safety switch like this
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

buy 4 * 10A leads, strip the outer sheath and individual wires, and crimp insulated Y / Ring terminals on each wire.

Use a quality automatic wire stripper like this, don't use a manual stripper.
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

If you were a qualified electrician you might instead wire up an EMI filter and all 4 servo drives from the one power lead like this
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...-Coming-Soon?p=2404304&viewfull=1#post2404304

Wago connectors could also be used for Line / Neutral / Ground for 240V to each servo controller

HugoB · Nov 12, 2018

AussieSim said:
Regarding the AC mains, perhaps the safest DIY method is to buy a RCD/safety switch like this
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

buy 4 * 10A leads, strip the outer sheath and individual wires, and crimpinsulated Y / Ring terminals on each wire.

Use a quality automatic wire stripper like this, don't use a manual stripper.
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

If you were a qualified electrician you might instead wire up an EMI filter and all 4 servo drives from the one power lead like this
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...-Coming-Soon?p=2404304&viewfull=1#post2404304

Wago connectors could also be used for Line / Neutral / Ground for 240V to each servo controller

Agree on every point. Those Wago connectors are very good. And that EMI filter is apparently a key component to solve all mysterious problems people are having. I ordered two, just in case. According the German forum, that filter is actually installed as standard with such servo motors in industrial applications.

DotComRich · Nov 12, 2018

It would be tremendously helpful if someone could post a wiring diagram for powering 4 of these bad boys. Seems to be my last hurdle is understanding how to properly and safely power these as I know very little about electrician stuff.

AussieSim · Nov 12, 2018

EMI filters and Safety Switches are in the manuals I've seen for industrial servos under wiring.

However in the home DIY setting this would not be the usual.

(Ignore the part about transformers and 3 phase power if you are in Australia with 240V 10A power)

AussieSim · Nov 12, 2018

DotComRich said:
It would be tremendously helpful if someone could post a wiring diagram for powering 4 of these bad boys. Seems to be my last hurdle is understanding how to properly and safely power these as I know very little about electrician stuff.

I don't mean to be rude, but AC mains electricity should not be tinkered with, without appropriate expertise. You might burn down your house, your building or kill yourself. You should hire a licensed electrician to wire it up as per the wiring diagram in the manual.

DotComRich · Nov 12, 2018

AussieSim said:
I don't mean to be rude, but AC mains electricity should not be tinkered with, without appropriate expertise. You might burn down your house, your building or kill yourself. You should hire a licensed electrician to wire it up as per the wiring diagram in the manual.

Not rude at all mate I appreciate the warning, I am just trying to understand what is involved here as I map out what and more importantly who I am going to need to hire for certain parts like this one.

HugoB · Nov 12, 2018

Can't wait to play this one in VR on the SFX100, once it's finished!

Ringorian · Nov 12, 2018

HugoB said:
Can't wait to play this one in VR on the SFX100, once it's finished!

Me too, but at the moment there is no motion Data coming

cprelot · Nov 12, 2018

Printing question for PETG:
Do you guy's use the fan or not when printing PETG for the big part (Linear bearing mount)?
I used to have 25 to 30% on but I got some warping on the bottom even after a perfect first layer and on PEI sheet witch is stick pretty well...I might go off fan completely since I print slow (50mm/s)

and does the petg buildup on the nozzle to you after a while?
it;s the only complain I have for this type of Filament other than that I love it

tell you me your setting if you succeed please
thanks

Heikkimm · Nov 12, 2018

Has anybody measured the actual amperage this system pulls from the socket at 230v?

C64 · Nov 12, 2018

Heikkimm said:
Has anybody measured the actual amperage this system pulls from the socket at 230v?

Haven't measured it but from a 8 socket gang plug going to a single domestic plug with a 13amp fuse I run my SFX100 servos, gaming computer ( with rift ) and small Mige... and 2kw heater. Uk mains supply is 240v @ 50hz.

AussieSim · Nov 12, 2018

DotComRich said:
Not rude at all mate I appreciate the warning, I am just trying to understand what is involved here as I map out what and more importantly who I am going to need to hire for certain parts like this one.

The easiest DIY way is to buy 4 power leads, strip the ends and put crimp terminals on eaxh wire - something like this but I would use a 10A lead, and add insulated Y crimp terminals.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/3pin-mains-plug-to-bare-wires-1-8m/p/PS4110

Plug them all in to the Arlec safety switch power board, and wire up as per the manual like this (not my picture)

Michal Burisin · Nov 12, 2018

HugoB said:
Just a quick update Michal, that PETG is absolutely fantastic. I did a printing test and the properties of this PETG are quite impressive. You can and should print with way lower temperatures than with regular PETG. You should print first layer with around 215C, then the rest with about 210-220C, bed around 80-90C and fan 50%. You'll get very little stringing and very good layer adhesion (especially with 220C). It's impressively strong, yet easy to print. Read this post for more tips:

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prin...ilament-tip-extrudr-mf-petg-1-75mm-t4541.html

Quote: "assume you are used to print PETG at 230-260°C range, right?
Well that's not the case for Extrudr MF-PETG, this material prints almost like PLA, at low temp, with great bed adhesion, and little to no warping, ending with great results.
Looking at temperatures... I thought that the strength of the material would be lower compared to ordinary PETG that prints at around 235°C, but no, even when printing at 210°C this material is pretty much the same strength, if not stronger than most other PETG filaments I've tested."

and this if you can read German:

https://filament-test.com/petg-testberichte/extrudr-petg-filament-test/

My settings in Slic3r: 0.4mm Nozzle, 0.2mm layers, 8 perimeters, 12 bottom layers, 12 top, 20% infill grid, 0.45mm layer width. I print at 50mm/s perimeters and 80mm/s infill. But still testing a bit for optimization, so try yourself. I will report back if I change any settings.

- with these settings one motor_mount.stl takes 11h 48m and a predicted 217.6g
- printing all the parts for one actuator takes 1day 16h 25m and a predicted 760g
- so if you print 24/7 that's 6 days and 18h for all four
- you'll need 3040g, that's one spool of 2.5kg and one of 1.1kg
- that will cost you 109 euros
- this is highly theoretical, based on the data sheet's 1.3g/cm3 and Slic3r calculation
- maybe I'm printing too fast, I'll let you know if the holes for the screws are dimensionally correct

I'm going to print all the SFX100 parts with this PETG, for it's much stronger than any of the PLA I've tried, yet just as easy to print.

Edit: made a miscalculation, corrected.

Great! Thanks for update!

I have been busy building Prusa, I didn't have much time recently, so it was going slow, but I have it up and running and I did first test prints and it's working perfectly

I'll wait little bit with SFX100 as I need to finish G-Seat first and then see general noise levels and whether it would be realistic to add some more

I'm looking forward for more progress on your printing. This will get certainly handy on some parts I will need for G-Seat.

Do you recommend printing on 210°C with Extrudr PETG or you are just saying it's possible, but it's still better to print at 235°C?

HugoB · Nov 12, 2018

Michal Burisin said:
Great! Thanks for update!

I have been busy building Prusa, I didn't have much time recently, so it was going slow, but I have it up and running and I did first test prints and it's working perfectly

I'll wait little bit with SFX100 as I need to finish G-Seat first and then see general noise levels and whether it would be realistic to add some more

I'm looking forward for more progress on your printing. This will get certainly handy on some parts I will need for G-Seat.

Do you recommend printing on 210°C with Extrudr PETG or you are just saying it's possible, but it's still better to print at 235°C?

Just a quick post because I’m in a hurry, I’ll share my most successful settings with you as soon as I’ve got some more time, but in general, for parts that need to be strong, it’s best to print at the maximum temperature the Extrudr PETG allows, which is 230C. You can print at 220C too for less stringing, but if a bit of stringing doesn’t matter, print at 230C for maximum layer adhesion. First 3 layers no fan, the rest use fan at 50% speed the whole time.

Clean your PEI sheet with isopropyl alcohol and use heatbed temp at 85C the whole print. Print perimeters at 40 or 50 and infill at 60mm/s.

Basically the ‘Prusa PETG’ profile, with the modifications that are mentioned in the GitHub plus the temperature and speed modifications I mentioned.

Oh, and read this, it’s very important to get you prints dimensionally correct, like the slider of the SFX100, so it fits in the profile:

https://www.google.at/amp/s/mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/amp/

I’ll get back with more details later. Have fun!

HugoB · Nov 15, 2018

For anyone who hasn't started printing the parts yet, just a heads up: it is tremendously helpful to calibrate your extruder, so the parts come out exactly the right size. Otherwise you'll have to modify all the parts with sandpaper and complex machinery like in this video (@32:00):

My first slider was too small, so the screws went in too easily and all the shafts and bearings did not fit snugly, they were too loose. After I calibrated my extruder, the parts are SO spot on the right size, everything fits like a glove. The hollow shaft slides in with just the right amount of resistance to hold, the same with the bearings and the screws fit like the designer intended. I need no post-processing.

I'm just sharing this because in my opinion, setting the extruder right is so much more easy than modifying all the parts after print. It saves tremendous amounts of time and energy.
Here is how to calibrate your extruder again:

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

(you'll need a digital caliper)

To make sure, you can print some thin slices of the parts and check if they fit. For this you need some critical parts, like the fixed bearings or the linear bearings, to try it out. Maybe your extruder is already set correctly and you're lucky, so it’s best to do this before you start the calibration of course

cprelot · Nov 15, 2018

HugoB said:
For anyone who hasn't started printing the parts yet, just a heads up: it is tremendously helpful to calibrate your extruder, so the parts come out exactly the right size. Otherwise you'll have to modify all the parts with sandpaper and complex machinery like in this video (@32:00):

My first slider was too small, so the screws went in too easily and all the shafts and bearings did not fit snugly, they were too loose. After I calibrated my extruder, the parts are SO spot on the right size, everything fits like a glove. The hollow shaft slides in with just the right amount of resistance to hold, the same with the bearings and the screws fit like the designer intended. I need no post-processing.

I'm just sharing this because in my opinion, setting the extruder right is so much more easy than modifying all the parts after print. It saves tremendous amounts of time and energy.
Here is how to calibrate your extruder again:

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

(you'll need a digital caliper)

To make sure, you can print some thin slices of the parts and check if they fit. For this you need some critical parts, like the fixed bearings or the linear bearings, to try it out. Maybe your extruder is already set correctly and you're lucky, so it’s best to do this before you start the calibration of course

Yes You exactly right !
And I wanted to add:

If you need to calibrate your extruder or step motor or even the firmware like me ( duet delta) for size consticency
Make sure you use the same filament brand and color you’ll going to use later to print the part)
I’ve been calibrate and tune my printer intensively for this projetI was off by .2mm , now it’s spot one.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

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