The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Black_rat]

General rule of thumb front to back 100cm centre to centre give or take 10 cm.

 

[Jrnd]

I am sure you can just uninstall it and reinstall it to 'set the clock' back so its no longer expired.
The reason it expires is to ensure you have the latest version I think.

thank you for the answer
I have the SimFeedback_00_08_04 version
I uninstalled it, then installed but it tells me as well that the version is expired ...
I downloaded it on this link:
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo

 

[vulbas]

hello,
i have the simfeedback 00_08_05
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/releases

 

[Black_rat]

simfeedback 00_08_05 is the latest version.

 

[Jrnd]

hello,
i have the simfeedback 00_08_05
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/releases

Merci Vulba

 

[pass-low]

General rule of thumb front to back 100cm centre to centre give or take 10 cm.

sorry, i've read this 5 times and im not sure i can understand/follow it. does it mean find the centre of the rig then go out 100cm towards the front and place an actuator there(+/-10cm) and then repeat for the rear?

 

[JohnnyV]

Center-to-center of the front and back actuators should be 100 cm (+/- 10 cm).
@pass-low

 

[TRC7]

The 100 cm is the distance between the actuators. Most people have the rear actuators mounted at the end of the rig and the front actuators are about 100 cm from the rear. Getting exactly to 100 cm is not always possible due to the wheel deck uprights being in the way. Just try to separate the front and rear by 100 cm or as close at you can. Good luck

 

[sn4il]

Hey folks, just wanted to drop a note in here to say that the second group buy for the SFX-100 shields is now complete and all boards have been shipped. I ended up with a few extra boards, so if you want a board but missed the group buy please send me a direct message and I can get you sorted. Thanks to everyone who participated in making round 2 a success!

Did I miss it?? I was on the list and was waiting for your email???

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Thanks.

The 100 cm is the distance between the actuators. Most people have the rear actuators mounted at the end of the rig and the front actuators are about 100 cm from the rear. Getting exactly to 100 cm is not always possible due to the wheel deck uprights being in the way. Just try to separate the front and rear by 100 cm or as close at you can. Good luck

 

[Pyronious]

Did I miss it?? I was on the list and was waiting for your email???

Check your inbox for a direct message from me on June 11th. It has all the info you need.

 

[ThugUK]

Thanks.

And I suppose the seating position should be as center & middle to the 4 actuator as possible?

I guess in an ideal world the actuators would be in the centre where the weight is balanced between front and rear, so there is the same weight on the front actuators as there is on the rear when you are seated in your rig.
In reality that would mean that your rears are going to be behind the driver and the fronts closer to your knee area (depending how much of a overhang you have at the front, where your pedals are mounted).
The issue is, most people have an 'off the shelf' rig where the seat is positioned at the rear, so having the rear actuators some distance behind you isn't possible. Meaning most rigs will have far more weight on the rears than they do the front.

To find the centre of gravity you could place your rig on a broom handle, sit in at and then move it back and forth to find where its balancing. Then use this as the centre point between your actuators.

Not sure how much difference it would make in real life though, but it would place equal amount of pressure/stress on each actuator.

I would recommend just placing the rears as far back as your rig will allow then the fronts 100cm forward of them (measuring centre to centre), but give or take depending on your set up.

My (self designed and built) rig has a lot of scope for moving things forwards, so I may try what I have just said to see if it makes any difference or not.

 

[sn4il]

Check your inbox for a direct message from me on June 11th. It has all the info you need.

You are right. I got an email. I just did not see it before
Can I still make a payment?
Sorry!!!

 

[vulbas]

Did I miss it?? I was on the list and was waiting for your email???

hello,

I am on the list but I have not seen the email

Is it possible to send another?

 

[Eric Bergeron]

@Pyronious if you have extra board , i am interested pm me.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Hi guys,
I've been getting pretty good progress on improving my 3D prints, but for some strange reason, I get this weird impairment on every printed copy of the motor mount. It's pretty much on the exact same spot and same pattern. Anyone else experienced this issue?

 

[Insert Coin]

Looks like the print head gets 'stuck' at that height. Move the print head up to that height, disable the stepper motors and move the head to the left and right manually. Maybe a cable is restricting the print head from moving.

 

[niko911]

Hi guys,
I've been getting pretty good progress on improving my 3D prints, but for some strange reason, I get this weird impairment on every printed copy of the motor mount. It's pretty much on the exact same spot and same pattern. Anyone else experienced this issue?
View attachment 318316

Very funny actually. Mine looks the same!
Printer with Prusa MK3s.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Very funny actually. Mine looks the same!
Printer with Prusa MK3s.

Hum... interesting! Which Slicer did you use? I use the standard Slic3r (not Slic3r PE)
Got a feeling that the problem might be embedded in the gcode file.

 

[Dave_6]

The ball screw, bearing etc; did you all receive a shipping notification or did they just arrive some days/weeks after payment? Amy has been fairly communicative but I haven't heard from her since a few days ago after she asked for my shipping address. No big deal, just curious.