The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Can I ask what you did for UK power wiring to your servo control Box. Going to tackle that next weekend.
I am using one (13amp) plug/lead, going into a switch (so I can turn it off from the case rather than the wall outlet), there is a wire coming out of the switch which is then split into 2 using connectors (the plastic covered brass type you put the wire in either side and screw little screws down), these in turn are then also split into 2 (making 4) using the same type of connectors.
I then wired the boxes up to these connectors.
I kept the wiring as short as I could.
I am sure that this will be ok. When I look at the power consumption on Rowan's website he hasn't seem them go over 300w which is a lot less than my PC.

So, one wire going into a connector with 2 coming out the other side. 2 connectors placed on these 2 wires and 2 wires coming out of each of those to the motors. 3 connectors in total.
 
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I did not order from NTL but are these nuts really out of spec or they're sending different nuts???
Well supposedly they come in either 42mm or 50mm for the 1605 screws..
So I would argue 44mm is an anomaly.. Amy said some customers request 45mm... but I suspect this is not true.

My 3d printer is out of commission at the moment... So I won't really know if they will be suitable until I can print out a slider
 
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Thank you.

Still having problems with kinetic website recognizing my paypal. It does not promote to a login except when I click on the paypal logo but it is still not recognizing it and throws an error

Hi Moe,

If you leave the site in German and use Google Translate, Paypal works fine. Also I found the prices are cheaper too.
 
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I selected all the items and then copied the shopping cart page and emailed them the list to which they generated me an invoice for payment. After confirming payment via paypal they shipped it.



Ok thanks for that feedback, I called them last night and they said they would look into the website, and sort it but as of today its still a nogo.
Ive tried all the things suggested on this page, but as soon as i pick New Zealand (neusseland) it just says, cant ship.
Bit of a pain as i emailed them and they said 114 euros. but i cant actually get to order it!!!
so i will try your suggestion, thanks
 
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I've measured mine at 44.5mm... however the actual cylinder part is only 34mm... So it might just slot in to the slider perfectly.. Will hopefully print a slider tonight and check tomorrow
Keep us uppdated megahowler - my ballbearing have the same specs as yours.
In worst case - jedrzej101 have made a new STL file of the slider - which is deeper in the hole and should work on our ballbearings.
 
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Depends if you're willing to fork out the money for the MOQ and extrusion die...
A UK mill would possibly throw the die in for free (or at cost) if a kilometer of metal was run. Failing that I'd hazard a guess that a multi-porthole die like that would cost about £1k to fab, but we would have the opportunity to optimise the design. Disclaimer: it's been a long time since I designed any extrusions and dealt directly with mills/die cutters so I might be talking bollocks. There are definitely economies of scale that don't really apply to a DIY build like this though.
 
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Hi everyone, I am new to this post but I desperately need your help! I have two major problems with this project:

1) When I first trial pressing the "Start" button in SimFeedback, the system worked as it went up, and down when I pressed "Stop". I fired up AC for first trial and because of safety concern, I did not sit in to test but just just use joypad to test drive. The motion was logical as expected and I was amazed that I made it in the first time. However, when I tried it in the seat with my new Augury (18Nm) and HE Sprint, the behaviour did not feel right; the FFB was so weird and I could not drive a straight line. Furthermore, HE Sprint was experiencing a serious delay and I had to unplug the USB and calibrate them again. But even after the calibration, when I pressed "Start" in SimFeedback, my Sprint had serious delay again which made me not able to test the whole system with Sprint. I also noticed that when I "Start" there was a buzz sound in the speaker and the video was not steady; it went to black screen from time to time. It appeared to me there are interference issues but I don't know how to deal with it.

2) On the other day after I experienced the case 1) above, I tried to move the messy wiring setup to somewhere else. When I "Start", four actuators could go up but the front pair suddenly shortened to a very low position (I have not yet "Stop") and the rear pair refused to do the same. Then there was a loud sound and the servers of the rear pair indicated "AL.06". My rig was left leaning forward then. I tried many many times later, especially I checked all GND wire connection, and though I changed to another set of wires, the situation did not change. I therefore had no chance to try my HE again.

I am afraid that I am just screwed up the whole thing.... Grateful to have any suggestions from you all. Thanks so much!!
 
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Well supposedly they come in either 42mm or 50mm for the 1605 screws..
So I would argue 44mm is an anomaly.. Amy said some customers request 45mm... but I suspect this is not true.

My 3d printer is out of commission at the moment... So I won't really know if they will be suitable until I can print out a slider
~42mm & ~50mm is what I'm getting.
2-3mms on 42mm long part is a lot imho, ~5%?
1605a.jpg
1605b.jpg
1605c.jpg
 
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@z4hei

1.

- Use ferrite cores around the USB cables
- Use different USB controllers for each device that has issues, a different USB port is not always a different USB controller
- Use high quality USB cables
- Use a quality powered USB hub to connected the arduino
- Use a Net filter for the power supply of the servos or connect them to a power outlet from different group
- Seperate the USB cables from the powercables of the servos

2.

- check your wiring, use a continuity tester ( the one that beeps)

Faulty wiring is 90% of all problems, check, double check and check again (from own experience :whistling:)

AL.06 is servos shutting down due to torque overload protection in your case probably cause by either the slider hitting the bearing due a software / connection glitch or because the from actuators fell down the entire weight was too much for the rear acuators

Good luck problem hunting:)
 
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Yes, I can't really add much that Henk has not said. Often somewhere in the wiring. You should have everything grounded well. Pedals can often behave strange where is there is a grounding issue.

I always try to keep my usb cables away from the power cables of the servos.

I assume that the loud noise you heard was mechanical, not electrical?
 
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@z4hei I can only echo all of the points @HoiHman has made. You’ll probably have to do them all to get things running. I’ve had similar mysterious behavior with my HE’s and other things. It’s not a single thing from HoiHman’s list of solutions, but all of them together that will probably solve your problems.

- Also, different placements of your servo controllers in relation to your PC or other equipment has an effect too, experiment with that.

- Routing you SFX100 motor cables away from other cables helps

- A high quality, powered USB hub for your Arduino is most important.

- Trying different USB ports in your PC for the Arduino’s Hub is second most important

- Having your Heusinkveld pedals on a separate USB 2.0 port can also help with HE specifically

- Using a netfilter for you servo controllers also can help with strange behavior, search for Schaffner FN2070-17-07, I’d consider this a preventive measurement, since you don’t know what equipment reacts to EMI in your net power.
 
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Just had notification that my ball screws and fixed bearings have been sent today from rc-letmathe.
The last piece of the puzzle is the Arduino SFX Shield/Extension Board from the group buy, but no idea when that will come.
Hoping its before the 21st May as that's my birthday.
 
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