The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[HoiHman]

just pointing out a small mistake it's actually about 4" converted for USA folks
...

I meant 2,5" extra room on top of a D-box Hugo, but forget to put the word "extra" in.

I was following up on your comments that D-box users claim that 1,5" movement is enough. It is enough for road racing, but the 2,5" extra are great for pitch and of course rally

You never forget your first Finland stage in Dirt Rally with the SFX 100

 

[HugoB]

I meant 2,5" extra room on top of a D-box Hugo, but forget to put the word "extra" in.

I was following up on your comments that D-box users claim that 1,5" movement is enough. It is enough for road racing, but the 2,5" extra are great for pitch and of course rally

Ah! I could have thought of that, makes sense. Indeed, I can see 1.5" being great for road surface feedback, but going through the NS carousel and really leaning in with a full left bank while still feeling the concrete plates violently hitting the suspension is great No-can-do that with 1.5"

 

[Pyronious]

Do you have the files for the original 1.32 board enclosure? I have the older board

Yes, the files for the prototype board are still available in the GitHub repository:

https://github.com/Pyronious/SFX-100-Breakout-Board/tree/master/Prototype Edition/Enclosure

 

[sn4il]

As I wait on a local powder coater to return some pieces I've been focusing my attention to the controllers and associated housing. To give you an idea of just how OCD I am, I re-did the power cord three times. The controller cables will have a fabric wrap coming through the wire separator that was made by a friend.

I really love your enclosure. Could you share more details about the plate drivers are mounted on?
Is that NavePoint 6U 450mm depth cabinet?
Thank you.

 

[Crashtappen]

Myself I’m designing a mount for my button box at the moment.

Check the 3D printing section on Discord Chanel, I designed one that can fit your needs. Easy mount, stealth and rock solid.

 

[Tim Palmgren]

@sn4il I found a similar cabinet on Facebook marketplace in a grey colour for 60bucks NZ which had a rack shelf already in it, I have just drilled some holes and mounted the drivers to that. 450mm deep means I wont be able to get my amp into it but it was MUCH cheaper than the other options I was looking at.

 

[Wmacky]

Yes, the files for the prototype board are still available in the GitHub repository:

https://github.com/Pyronious/SFX-100-Breakout-Board/tree/master/Prototype Edition/Enclosure

Thanks! Perfect

 

[Wmacky]

I really love your enclosure. Could you share more details about the plate drivers are mounted on?
Is that NavePoint 6U 450mm depth cabinet?
Thank you.

I'm not Snajrog, but I found this nifty ready to mount panel for my server case mounted drivers...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5U-Blank-R...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Rollux]

As a question regarding EMI- would putting the Arduino in a Faraday Cage help along with the Ferrite filtered cables if enclosing the drivers and Arduino in one enclosure? Or is it just better to put the Arduino somewhere else?

 

[Crashtappen]

As a question regarding EMI- would putting the Arduino in a Faraday Cage help along with the Ferrite filtered cables if enclosing the drivers and Arduino in one enclosure? Or is it just better to put the Arduino somewhere else?

For myself, everything is lined up on a shelf to the open air and I have no EMI issues.
Just have the drivers power line going to the opposite of all the other cables and plugged on an independent line (no PC, wheel or screens on it)
Of course I am not using any crappy USB hub that regularly cause most of the problems.

So make a first try and you will see if any problem.

 

[HoiHman]

As a question regarding EMI- would putting the Arduino in a Faraday Cage help along with the Ferrite filtered cables if enclosing the drivers and Arduino in one enclosure? Or is it just better to put the Arduino somewhere else?

Don't over do or to over engineer this.

Myself and a lot SFX100 builders have all electronics including the arduino in one very tight box/enclosure. No need to take extra precautions for EMI. I even have the electronics box for my AccuForce right next to the drivers / arduino without any problems.

As mentioned before use a quality power USB hub and ferrite filters on the USB cables and 95% you will be fine.

 

[anton_Chez]

Yep, USB is your enemy, not the potential of EMI. If you have no drama with USB yet are having EMI issues, I'd be very surprised. This project has shown me just how shtty USB can be.

 

[Rollux]

Ok, just been reading thru and noticed a lot of discussion about EMI and disconnects, so was thinking about prevention in my upcoming build is all. As another question then, what brands make good quality USB cables? Looking online all of them, including the $1 cheap Chinese cables are listed as “high quality” so makes it hard to know for the uninitiated what is actually a decent cable without paying $250 for an audiophile taxed one...

 

[Mascot]

Ok, just been reading thru and noticed a lot of discussion about EMI and disconnects, so was thinking about prevention in my upcoming build is all. As another question then, what brands make good quality USB cables? Looking online all of them, including the $1 cheap Chinese cables are listed as “high quality” so makes it hard to know for the uninitiated what is actually a decent cable without paying $250 for an audiophile taxed one...

If you can, get a shielded one with ferrite cores at each end (or add them if not). I'm now running my cheap-ass non-ferrite USB (and extension) through the middle of an 8040 t-slot aluminium extrusion (the lateral 'brace' recently added to the front end of my P1 chassis when I revised the pedal deck) so it's probably the best shielded USB cable in the known galaxy right now. Not had a drop since.

 

[HoiHman]

Also remember that the quality of the USB controller and or USB port on the PC side is very important to

 

[Crashtappen]

Ok, just been reading thru and noticed a lot of discussion about EMI and disconnects, so was thinking about prevention in my upcoming build is all. As another question then, what brands make good quality USB cables? Looking online all of them, including the $1 cheap Chinese cables are listed as “high quality” so makes it hard to know for the uninitiated what is actually a decent cable without paying $250 for an audiophile taxed one...

Just take a good shielded USB cable with proper wire section, like 10$ Max for 5 meters or 8$ for 3 meters.
Add ferrites on each sides and your good to go

 

[HugoB]

For anyone looking for quality USB cables that aren't overpriced audiophile voodoo:
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...rit-vergoldet-awg-28-24-max-2a-ladestrom.html
(or white):
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...-28-24-max-2a-ladestrom.html?cache=1556193557

These seem to tick all the boxes:
- double shielded (aluminum foil + 96 braid shield)
- ferrite cores on both sides
- pure copper wire (no copper mixture)
- 24k. gold-plated connectors
- AWG 28 for data, AWG 24 for current
- USB Fast Charge / supports Quick Charge up to 2A
- cable outer diameter 4.9 mm (that's thick! = probably better shielding than chinese crap)
- lots of different lengths
- very cheap for what you get!!

These are micro USB.

They also have USB B:
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...rgoldet-awg-28-24.html?pn=48&cache=1556193252
USB extension:
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...rit-vergoldet-awg-28-24.html?cache=1556193557
And Mini USB:
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...-28-24-max-2a-ladestrom.html?cache=1556193557
(or white):
https://www.kab24.de/computer/kab24...-28-24-max-2a-ladestrom.html?cache=1556193557

 

[sn4il]

I even have the electronics box for my AccuForce right next to the drivers / arduino without any problems.

Good to hear that. I had issues with Accuforce before. I love the wheel but can't stand that noisy fan on Mean Well SP-320-24 power supply. I was getting disconnects when that fan was kicking on & off.

 

[Wmacky]

Any need for ferrite cores on the motor wires?

 

[niko911]

Looking great Hugo!
The shipping costs are enormous. What more USB cables do I need beside the one from the Arduino to the PC? Best to order everything at the same time,