The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[PandaNL]

Hello,

I am currently working on a PCB for a other project where I need to order some PCB's and parts, and thought I order the SFX-100 board with my current order with the files @Pyronious kindly provided.

My DB25 breakout board from the shopping list had a defect, so my cables are a bit messy and because I already needed to get my own PCB's designed I thought why not getting the SFX board aswell.

So I will have 5 left, it is not my intension to disrupt the group buy by any means, but if people near The Netherlands want a board and they missed the first group buy I can kindly provide them.

- I don't want to make any money of these boards, just the costs for parts+board+customs and shipping
- This will be a one-off, once gone I have no intention of ordering a new batch
- I will solder all parts for you if you want (at no extra costs) or send the parts if you want to DIY
- Version is based on v1.32 (So with the RJ45 connector, which I prefer) Group buy will be with a terminal connection
- Board color will be matte black
- Parts just arrived, Boards are on there way (will probally take 3-5 days)

Price will be around €13,- excluding shipping. PM me if interested

 

[Flag Ghost]

Yeah, agree with @Steve D. I find the SFX100 is actually quieter in use than the NLMv3 was, and that was pretty quiet to begin with compared to a lot of motion systems.

@Flag Ghost I assume since you didn't mention it that you're one of lucky ones immune to coil whine?

I can hear the coil whine but the intensity is pretty low. I did try placing a small sheet of 1/4" thick reflective insulation (aluminum foil type surface w/ bubble air pockets) in between the drivers and me and it almost completely eliminated the sound. So if the sound proves to be a real irritant I will try lining a box with the stuff. This is the stuff.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reflectix-...ive-Roll-Insulation-16-in-W-x-25-ft-L/1014123

 

[Flag Ghost]

Did you lubricate the 3D printed sliders? Are you using PETG or PLA? PLA is way more silent than PETG. PETG squeaks like hell, you need to lubricate them with PTFE dry lube. PLA you probably don't.

Yep used PLA with PTFE dry lube on your recommendation. I'm thinking I may have overtightened the fixed bearing nut causing some resistance. I'm going to pull one off and loosen it a bit to see if the noise subsides.

 

[Mascot]

I can hear the coil whine but the intensity is pretty low. I did try placing a small sheet of 1/4" thick reflective insulation (aluminum foil type surface w/ bubble air pockets) in between the drivers and me and it almost completely eliminated the sound. So if the sound proves to be a real irritant I will try lining a box with the stuff. This is the stuff.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reflectix-...ive-Roll-Insulation-16-in-W-x-25-ft-L/1014123

Interesting..!
So you'd definitely say the whine was coming from your drivers? My own sealed box experiment seemed to cast doubt on this.
That stuff you linked to will just be reflecting the sound, not absorbing it. But maybe it's still an effective solution?
I'm yet to try acoustic foam to absorb the whine. Was about to until my previous test seemed to indicate the noise was actually coming from one (or more) of the actuators, not the drivers themselves.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Interesting..!
So you'd definitely say the whine was coming from your drivers? My own sealed box experiment seemed to cast doubt on this.

Yes, no doubt about it. I literally held a 12 inch square of the insulation between the drivers and my ears. If I moved it away giving the drivers line of sight the sound comes back.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Here is a short clip of the noise my actuators are making. The video clip is about 1/2 the relative volume of what it actually sounds like.

 

[Mascot]

Here is a short clip of the noise my actuators are making. The video clip is about 1/2 the relative volume of what it actually sounds like.

It's always hard to tell from a video, there are so many potential variables.
Potentially daft question, but I assume you packed the ball screws with grease?

 

[Flag Ghost]

It's always hard to tell from a video, there are so many potential variables.
Potentially daft question, but I assume you packed the ball screws with grease?

Absolutely

 

[HugoB]

Yep used PLA with PTFE dry lube on your recommendation. I'm thinking I may have overtightened the fixed bearing nut causing some resistance. I'm going to pull one off and loosen it a bit to see if the noise subsides.

It shouldn’t matter how tight you have the fixed bearing nut, because it has a little extension ridge one one side of the nut, this side should be facing the fixed bearing and will prevent the nut from touching the fixed bearing. This means you can tighten the hell out of it and it should always turn freely..

 

[HugoB]

Did you also grease the linear bearing with copious amounts of grease and rub them into the balls?

 

[Flag Ghost]

It shouldn’t matter how tight you have the fixed bearing nut, because it has a little extension ridge one one side of the nut, this side should be facing the fixed bearing and will prevent the nut from touching the fixed bearing. This means you can tighten the hell out of it and it should always turn freely..

I did make sure that ridge was facing the bearing. Mine definitely would turn but it wasn't free wheeling as it took some effort to turn it, not difficult, but not free spinning. How easily would yours turn?

 

[Flag Ghost]

Did you also grease the linear bearing with copious amounts of grease and rub them into the balls?

Yep, did this too.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Here is a short clip of the noise my actuators are making.

Its hard to say for certain about loudness, but my rig sounds something like that on initial lift up. When you're running telemetry though, it sounds much 'smoother' and quieter....

 

[saxxon66]

Here is a short clip of the noise my actuators are making. The video clip is about 1/2 the relative volume of what it actually sounds like.

Sounds like in the "normal" range.
These ball screws are noisy on high speeds.

Here is mine for for comparison, max speed test.

in operation it will be much quieter

 

[Flag Ghost]

Sounds like in the "normal" range.
These ball screws are noisy on high speeds.

Here is mine for for comparison, max speed test.

in operation it will be much quieter

Ok, that definitely sounds pretty close at the beginning. I haven't upped my speed yet. I will try it in game and see how it sounds. Thanks.

 

[HugoB]

A while back saxxon66 mentioned IGUS bearings that would be much quieter? Maybe something to test for someone who finds this too loud. Very expensive though.

I don’t find it too loud because during racing you rarely use so much travel at such speeds (only when crashing). So in operation it is really quiet actually.

 

[Flag Ghost]

A while back saxxon66 mentioned IGUS bearings that would be much quieter? Maybe something to test for someone who finds this too loud. Very expensive though.

I don’t find it too loud because during racing you rarely use so much travel at such speeds (only when crashing). So in operation it is really quiet actually.

I tried printing the sliders with IGUS bearing filament. My very unscientific testing showed that PLA slid better. VERY difficult to print as well.

 

[HugoB]

I tried printing the sliders with IGUS bearing filament. My very unscientific testing showed that PLA slid better. VERY difficult to print as well.

Yes it’s a PITA to print. I actually meant the linear bearings made out of IGUS, they sell a direct replacement of the linear bearing. saxxon66 mentioned it here a while back:

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-127#post-2915844

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-127#post-2916035

 

[Flag Ghost]

Yes it’s a PITA to print. I actually meant the linear bearings made out of IGUS, they sell a direct replacement of the linear bearing. saxxon66 mentioned it here a while back:

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-127#post-2915844

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-127#post-2916035

Ahh.. sorry Hugo I misunderstood.

 

[ScottSonder]

I did make sure that ridge was facing the bearing. Mine definitely would turn but it wasn't free wheeling as it took some effort to turn it, not difficult, but not free spinning. How easily would yours turn?

Are we talking about the fixed bearing independent of the nut? Some of mine were tighter than others. I wasn't sure what the expected behavior was, but I had the 'washer' side facing the bearing for sure.