The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Mascot]

It’s definitely locked on fully but literally on the first pump the grease comes out of the middle of the ball screw from the white bit and just cakes the top of it? I pumped about 5 times and then just lubed the screw because there was so much but then when I screw it fully up and down most of it comes back off onto the top again!

Amy is going to send replacements though so should be fine, not sure what parts yet though, could be the ball nut or the hole thing with another fixed bearing. I’ll leave it attached for now rather than trying to heat it up since I can’t do anything with it at the moment anyway.

Sounds like the seals aren't great on that one either.
Hopefully they'll send a whole new unit, but if not then be careful taking it apart as the bearings can scatter to the four winds.
Paging @anton_Chez ...

 

[sn4il]

but if you do source the ball screws from eBay then be 100% sure they are exactly the right spec. These are standard components but do come in a range of specifications.

On top of that, make sure you are getting real C7 class ball screw. Some sellers post this as a precaution:
"Beware of purchasing inexpensive ballscrews as many sellers falsely claim to be offering precision-grade C7 screws."
You can check the difference between classes here:
https://tech.thk.com/en/products/pdf/en_a15_011.pdf

 

[sberns]

I had trouble with the sliders... no mater how many times I calibrated and tested. The thing that worked for me was to print the Sliders at 99.5% scale on the X & Y axis. As an added bonus (I think) the hollow shafts are nice and snug on the inside of the slider.

If your printer is calibrated and you try to make the sliders fit with the multiplier I found the print quality and strength really took a hit.

Thanks for the tip! Will do that instead.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Thanks for the tip! Will do that instead.

Im no guru, so just print a little bit and give it a try.

As an added bonus, The little test prints are great for leveling up wonky furniture

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Sounds like the seals aren't great on that one either.
Hopefully they'll send a whole new unit, but if not then be careful taking it apart as the bearings can scatter to the four winds.
Paging @anton_Chez ...

Hmm well, I greased another 2, one the grease exploded out everywhere including the ball bearing holes, the other just out of the top again . Those two are ready to go just need the 3D parts to finish and I can bolt those in too, if enough grease isn’t in the others at least it will be a while before I find out I guess!

 

[anton_Chez]

If anyone has concerns over lubrication after they've built and started using their actuators, it's not that hard to get the assembly out of the profile once you have them all mounted to the cockpit. I greased all 4 or mine after about 2 months of use. It was as simple as blocking the rig up with some timber or other material (Mascot's servo packaging trick works well here) so that they are no longer touching the ground. Then you can take the motor off and just slide the whole internal piece out. It's actually easier to work on them while they are upright and mounted once finished than while they are in pieces and lying on the ground. From there you can do whatever you like. Use grease gun, hand lube the ball screw (not as effective or long lasting) or just inspect for correct operation and smoothness. If you can get the nut to position correctly, you won't even need to take them out all the way. Just slide it high enough for access to the grease nipple mount and you're good to go.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

If anyone has concerns over lubrication after they've built and started using their actuators, it's not that hard to get the assembly out of the profile once you have them all mounted to the cockpit. I greased all 4 or mine after about 2 months of use. It was as simple as blocking the rig up with some timber or other material (Mascot's servo packaging trick works well here) so that they are no longer touching the ground. Then you can take the motor off and just slide the whole internal piece out. It's actually easier to work on them while they are upright and mounted once finished than while they are in pieces and lying on the ground. From there you can do whatever you like. Use grease gun, hand lube the ball screw (not as effective or long lasting) or just inspect for correct operation and smoothness. If you can get the nut to position correctly, you won't even need to take them out all the way. Just slide it high enough for access to the grease nipple mount and you're good to go.

Would you just pump it in and let the grease go wherever it please then?

I’n tempted to try again with the bump stop screwed on to see if it would keep it forced down a bit but I’d have no way of seeing if it’s coming out the bottom with the slider on.

 

[anton_Chez]

Better to go wherever rather than not have it at all, as long as it's in the profile!

I didn't use the grease gun at all. I've applied a very liberal amount to the screw itself making sure I covered the inside portion of the thread very thoroughly. Again a gun is better but since I didn't have one handy yet and had one actuator already open for another reason, I thought I'd give it a crack. I reckon it would be OK but not for as long as having it greased with the gun.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Did anybody else use cheese spread for grease? Asking for a friend.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

On a serious note, Nipples!

I removed my nipples after lubing up.... the fashion seems to be to leave them in place?

 

[ScottSonder]

On a serious note, Nipples!

I removed my nipples after lubing up.... the fashion seems to be to leave them in place?

I'm getting the sense that they're possibly a pain to remove, and then also you can do what @Anton is talking about, the grease nipple will be there when you go back in 6 months later for more grease

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Mine were dead easy tbh. If you could grease them without stripping the whole thing down it would kinda make sense. Oh well, at least you cant lose them if theyre still screwed in

 

[ScottSonder]

I mentioned earlier my sliders were a tight fit, definitely too tight. I do not have high grit sandpaper around, but I do have Emery paper which may be a better option for post-processing, but here's my question.

Better to sand down the prints, or would it be better to try and scale down the print to be more exact? I was reading more about post-processing of the 3D parts earlier on in the thread, not so much now, but I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts/experiences.

 

[anton_Chez]

Sanding is fine, or filing with the half round type. Should be a good fit into the groove.

 

[HugoB]

I mentioned earlier my sliders were a tight fit, definitely too tight. I do not have high grit sandpaper around, but I do have Emery paper which may be a better option for post-processing, but here's my question.

Better to sand down the prints, or would it be better to try and scale down the print to be more exact? I was reading more about post-processing of the 3D parts earlier on in the thread, not so much now, but I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts/experiences.

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-167#post-2932378

 

[sn4il]

Mount your ball screw with slider attached to drill press. Make sure your bed is perpendicular to aluminum profile. Run your slider up and down slowly and let sharp edges of aluminum profile do the job.

 

[HugoB]

Mount your ball screw with slider attached to drill press. Make sure your bed is perpendicular to aluminum profile. Run your slider up and down slowly and let sharp edges of aluminum profile do the job.

Nice thinking

 

[ScottSonder]

@Hugo B

I did see that post mate, and that was the exact thing I was going to do if I wanted to reprint, but I've got a few printed out already. Waffled between trying to sand down these things which might be hard and time consuming I'm assuming and then actually just fixing it proper.

Good advice from everyone, thank you. Just need a drill press . The fit is hammering-tight though, like Anton's . Once I got it in there, it was damn hard to get out.

 

[C64]

Nice thinking

Be careful that you don't separate the layers by putting them under too much tension with the drill press. Make up a wooden sanding block that fits the groove and use some elbow grease.

 

[HugoB]

@Hugo B

I did see that post mate, and that was the exact thing I was going to do if I wanted to reprint, but I've got a few printed out already. Waffled between trying to sand down these things which might be hard and time consuming I'm assuming and then actually just fixing it proper.

Good advice from everyone, thank you. Just need a drill press . The fit is hammering-tight though, like Anton's . Once I got it in there, it was damn hard to get out.

I also had the problem that my sliders were way too big. This meant unfortunately that all my other parts were too big al well, so screws went in REALLY hard, the fixed and linear bearings would also not fit in the 3d printed parts, so overall everything was too big. Thankfully I noticed this before I had printed all four actuators, so I decided to reprint the ones I already had and continue with the correct sizes. This was a lot less physical effort but of course I wasted around 200 grams of filament..