The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Furnace Inferno · Mar 18, 2019

Ok, next stupid question, there are on the breadboard diagram the DB25 has 3 grey wires connecting to one slot on the breadboard, what am I meant to do here?!

EsxPaul · Mar 18, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Ok, next stupid question, there are on the breadboard diagram the DB25 has 3 grey wires connecting to one slot on the breadboard, what am I meant to do here?!

So, you will have the 3 wires coming back from the DB25. Choose one of them to be the single wire that runs the full length, from the connector to the Arduino. You can then splice the remaining two wires into that single full length wire in a place of your choice.

Those 3 wires will then be sharing a single ground connection from the Arduino.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 18, 2019

EsxPaul said:
So, you will have the 3 wires coming back from the DB25. Choose one of them to be the single wire that runs the full length, from the connector to the Arduino. You can then splice the remaining two wires into that single full length wire in a place of your choice.

Those 3 wires will then be sharing a single ground connection from the Arduino.

How does one do this with the dupoint connectors onto the breadboard? I’m looking at the pictures of Rowan’s and it everything just looks like direct wiring.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 18, 2019

Im pretty sure they will have been 'linked out' at the 25pin 'socket' end.

EsxPaul · Mar 18, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
How does one do this with the dupoint connectors onto the breadboard? I’m looking at the pictures of Rowan’s and it everything just looks like direct wiring.

I can't recollect Rowan's pictures but I've just had a look on his site and from what I can tell with my old eyes, he is using single Dupont connectors (one for each wire). You can afford to do this with no need to splice wires together if you are using a breadboard because you will have a whole row of sockets in the board that share a common connection. In the wiring diagram, it is the second row down from the top. So, if you follow that diagram exactly, you will feed a single earth wire from the Arduino ground pin to anywhere on that second row down. Now every pin on that row can supply an earth for the 12 in total that are required for your DB25 connectors.

This is assuming that you have the same breadboard setup as the diagram.

Essentially you can now choose any pins on that row for your 12 required DB25 earths

Bleak December · Mar 18, 2019

Hi everyone!

The typical love story... looking for info for SFX100, landed here, started to read and read and read and already ticking quite a few items in my shopping lists! Hope I can start already building some parts soon.

Big thanks to this awesome community!

EsxPaul · Mar 18, 2019

I forgot to mention, please make sure your breadboard has the same configuration as that in the guide. Some have their common rows horizontally, others vertically so it will pay to check this and be sure before you power anything up. You can use a multimeter to check continuity for each row, just to be sure which direction they run in.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 18, 2019

Ok cool, that is what I had assumed but thought I’d better ask first.

Only other question the dupoint connectors into the DB25, am I unscrewing first then tightening? And how far am I trying to put them in, enough to clamp onto the plastic or just the metal end? The connections seem a bit flimsy which is why I’m guessing a lot of people went to wagos instead.

sn4il · Mar 18, 2019

I'm about to order the extrusions for my frame and was wondering if people know of a good source for black anodized 1515 and 1530 (and possibly 1545). I see that Tnutz carries 1515 in black but not 1530. Any suggestions for other providers? *Edit: I found it on 8020's site.

Also, do I really need 1545 for the base frame (where the actuators connect), or is 1530 rigid enough for an SFX-100 build?

I'm about to find out. I'm using 1530 for the frame with a lot of joining plates and angle brackets.
I used this profile in the past to build my desk with retractable steering wheel mount and it felt very rigid and heavy.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/biurko/2.jpg
I'm taking this apart now to build that:
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/Rig1.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/Rig2.jpg

anton_Chez · Mar 18, 2019

I still don't understand how I got my breadboard connections to work.... Apart from not realising you needed the emergency stop wired to complete the loop before everything was allowed to power up, I got it first go.

Haven't touched it since, and I've bought Wago's to convert the breadboard wiring into something a little more robust. When it breaks, then I'll do it....

Furnace Inferno · Mar 18, 2019

Ok I’ve wired up all but one and just clamped down on the DuPont male end but I’m looking at the pictures and realised that Rowan hasn’t hooked up the Emergency stop in his. It’s due to arrive later today but how does it connect up?

Am I going to need to buy another cable that’s not in the shopping list and if so what?

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 18, 2019

You can just use some 3 or 2 core cable. You'll probably have a mains lead somewhere youre not using... Just chop that up...

ScottSonder · Mar 18, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Ok I’ve wired up all but one and just clamped down on the DuPont male end but I’m looking at the pictures and realised that Rowan hasn’t hooked up the Emergency stop in his. It’s due to arrive later today but how does it connect up?

Am I going to need to buy another cable that’s not in the shopping list and if so what?

4 wires from DB25 breakout back to estop as the input signals, one wire coming out of estop to connect to A0 on Arduino which would be the kill switch. You shouldn't need to buy anymore wire, not sure what you have, but that's a question I can't answer for sure.

Edit: I said 22 AWG is fine, probably want to just play it safe with 18/16. Just cut up a power cord like another user said.

You should be able to tell from the breadboard diagram. Pins coming out of each DB25 are taken into the estop, then one wire from the estop is wired back to the A0 Arduino pin.

ScottSonder · Mar 18, 2019

anton_Chez said:
I still don't understand how I got my breadboard connections to work.... Apart from not realising you needed the emergency stop wired to complete the loop before everything was allowed to power up, I got it first go.

Haven't touched it since, and I've bought Wago's to convert the breadboard wiring into something a little more robust. When it breaks, then I'll do it....

You don't have to wire in the estop, but if you do, just make sure to complete the circuit all the way from DB25's to estop and estop to A0. If you don't want to wire in the estop, all you do is take the 6 pin from each DB25 and connect it to A0. Some haven't wired the estop in yet, won't name names

jimbraj · Mar 18, 2019

ScottSonder said:
You don't have to wire in the estop, but if you do, just make sure to complete the circuit all the way from DB25's to estop and estop to A0. If you don't want to wire in the estop, all you do is take the 6 pin from each DB25 and connect it to A0. Some haven't wired the estop in yet, won't name names

U don’t need and estop. Until you need it

Moxley6969 · Mar 18, 2019

No Kill switch,,,,errrr..... Thats asking for trouble.

Thing's happen in some games/situations that a kill switch is Mandatory imo.

You ever see the Pogo stick to the moon effect in Iracing or a few other titles if you Jack on the suspension settings. Ya now imagine that happening with NO way to stop it....Lol, umm Ya, No thanks.

ScottSonder · Mar 18, 2019

Where did I recommend it? I wasn't advocating for it, just telling people how that works as I just learned myself.

22 AWG suffices for the estop though, right? Don't see a reason why not, but I also didn't want to recommend it and be wrong.

Moxley6969 · Mar 18, 2019

E stop can be ultra light 28-30Awg in reality. Its carrying no Amperage at all, so no need for anything Heavy duty at all.

ScottSonder · Mar 18, 2019

Moxley6969 said:
E stop can be ultra light 28-30Awg in reality. Its carrying no Amperage at all, so no need for anything Heavy duty at all.

Thanks for clarifying, that's what I was thinking, but I have seen diagrams with some heavy gauged wire, but it must've just been leftovers put to use.

Cheers.

anton_Chez · Mar 18, 2019

Yeah I was saying I hadn't wired it yet but I hadn't accounted for it not being in the loop so it was left open, causing everything else to not power on. I just wanted to test it before I finished it all off but I learned that if I wanted to do that I needed to wire it a little differently. I ended up just completing the wiring and all was good.