The cheapest button-box you can get – wired, wireless or Bluetooth numpad?

[stigs2cousin]

The passive one was cheap, it does not work with all my peripherals.

Risk of failure is probably quite low for a numpad, you will find out

 

[Herr Pietrus]

OK, I've thought about possible stuff changes in the feature (new pedals?) and decided to buy USB 3.0 with optional powering.
Hope this one will be OK, since it has longer cable, flat case (easy to mount anywhere) and no negative reviews on Amazon, because it's not available there in my country

UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub with 1M Long Cable, 4 Port USB Splitter Support 5Gbps Data Transfer

Expand USB Ports on your PC or UltrabookThis 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub helps you to connect up to 4 USB devices to your PC or Laptop, such as external hard drives, USB flash drives, mouse, keyboard, and much more USB devices, etc. It keeps you away from the trouble of plugging&unplugging...

eu.ugreen.com

 

[trichens]

I use two powered USB3 hubs and everything is plugged into those. It means I have just two USB cables, network and monitors plugged onto the PC.
Not noticed any issues with that setup.
Basically that means I can unplug two cables and move the complete rig away from the stand that has the PC and four monitors mounted on it.

 

[Elaphe]

I have this one and everything plugged into it (steering wheel's base, pedals, shifter, seat mover, several button boxes, handbrake, fans controllers, mouse, etc. I only had problems with it once and it was the USB cable from the computer. I replaced it and problem solved.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

OK guys.

You may take this post as a joke, and in part it is a joke indeed - on message board where half of the users own sim rigs worth tens of thousands of dollars it can't be different.

But in the same time I think it's not a terrible idea to show something what casual players, not so much devoted to sim-racing and not so skilled, can use... at least I'm planning to use.

I admit that I'm quite happy with what I was able to achieve without any tools (except one ring wrench, one screwdriver and one allen wrench), by assembling a few flat and angle bars together using some screws, nuts, washers and a piece of duble-side 3M tape. Honestly, I'm extremely lucky that all these basic, non-custom parts found in the nearest DIY store (and one cheapest magnetic phone holder from Amazon) suit so well to my "project" (what an exaggeration!) and their dimensions fit perfectly. And thank god that my wheel-stand mounting plate had some free space to RIG everything!

I was a bit afraid that really stiff and thick USB hub cable would ruin all my plan, but fortunately it folds in the correct direction to plug it into my PC's front panel socket. (what a relief!).

Oh, and do you all see that intricate, elegant cable management?

OK, no more jokes, I'm really pleased with what I've managed to do with such a low budget and low expectations.

 

[trichens]

I agree with you @Herr Pietrus as I get just as much fun from making stuff as a DIY project as from using the sim.
So a wooden "Deathmoblie" rig which I can adapt to fit anything I want.
There's an undeniable pleasure to be gained from figuring out how to get something to work and building it yourself.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

I think I'm not that kind of person... but yeah, I admit that I felt some satisfaction - partly because I was extremely lucky to find all these parts, but partly because I think it really fits my budget wheel, it's quite neat, cheap, works with most games (as far as I can see) and I was able to assemble it without drilling and tapping the holes, cutting metal bars etc. - I would have no way to do it.

BTW - magnet holds the numpad quite nice (it's really lightweight), but it's still too easy to decouple keyboard from the holder unintentionally hitting it, so I think I'll use some tape (perhaps thicker metal sticker would help, but don't have such one).

And I'm glad I've found that A4Tech numpad - it makes really good impression.
I've thought about sticking some labels or simply piece of colored paper to the buttons (perhaps also some washers on top of them, so that I could be able to distinguish the rows without looking), but I think it looks better without such cheap tuning

 

[Herr Pietrus]

Sorry for spamming here with such crap (in the realm of SimHubs, proper Button Boxes working as separate controllers, configured with soft much more advanced than simple Joy2Key etc.) - maybe some poor kids find it inspirational or some of you will just find it funny...
... but I'm freaking happy with what I've accomplished with my cheap numpad and a simple AHK script.

Of course, I've also mapped a few additional functions for ACC, but that was easy like taking candy from a baby and not so important...
The real problem I always had with F1 games from Codemasters/EA.

As you probably know, they have quite complicated menus with lots of commands that you can pass to your engineer. OK, perhaps not so complicated, but IMHO still not easy to use during a race and, first of all, with my poor eyesight, difficult to read - I couldn't see them on the screen. When I've played more often, I memorized the combinations for the most important ones - still, not for all.

So, already being in possession of a numpad, I've decided to write some macros in AHK to solve my problem. Unfortunately Autohotkey can't simulate controller actions (to do so, you need soft like Joy2key or at least some additional sophisticated scripts and dll libraries) so first I had to bind the menu navigation commands to the arrow keys and "engineer" and "menu switch" actions to other keys.

Theoretically you can hide Joy actions and substitute them with keyboard presses using AHK, but it didn't work initially, so my plan was in doubt (the inability to switch menu screens and select options using HAT switch and wheel buttons is a pain in such game like F1). Fortunately it turned out that even though game still registers wheel buttons and HAT switch in the menu, tweaking the code in AHK hid them in actual game - F1 gets arrow keys and other alternate keys so I can leave navigation commands assigned to arrows, "engineer" to X, menu switching to Z and I'm still able to invoke all this commands using my wheel. Fantastic!

Now with one button press on my numpad aka button box I can ask engineer everything! last time, best time, fuel, pit strategy, driver in front and behind, pit strategy... You can't imagine how great it is

$joy3::
{
SetKeyDelay 150, 25
SendEvent "z"
}
$joy7::
{
SetKeyDelay 150, 25
SendEvent "x"
}

$NumpadDiv::
{
SetKeyDelay 250, 25
SendEvent "zxx{right}"
} ;fastest lap in race
$NumpadMult::
{
SetKeyDelay 250, 25
SendEvent "zxx{down 1}{right}"
} ;best lap
$NumpadSub::
{
SetKeyDelay 100, 25
SendEvent "zxx{down 2}{right}"
} ;last lap

Of course in quali menu has a bit different layout so I had to write an alternative set of hotkeys and with help of some kind people smarter than me I can know switch between these two sets for quali and race.

Now I'm preparing notes so that I can quickly recall the layout of the buttons in each game whenever it is needed.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

OK, just one remark - of course the use of arrow keys was a mistake since they are used to steer on keyboard Switching to ijkl solved my problems (at least it seems so). It's a real revolution for me, now it's hard to imagine playing the old way

Sometimes you don't need a 100€ button box, 10€ numpad + 10€ USB hub bundle is... maybe not so elegant and sometimes not so easy (it was a bit complicated for me to write an AHK script for F1) - but it's just as functional and fun.

 

[Elaphe]

The problem with numpads is that keyboard keys, unlike proper buttons, are too sensitive and are placed too close to each other, so it's too easy to press a key accidentally, let alone using gloves.

 

[Alvaro Tundra]

I own a T300RS as well, and have ABS, TC and Engine map for ACC, mapped to the three lower buttons of the wheel rim.
That could save some buttons of the buttonbox.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

On the two right buttons on the wheel base I've got ignition and clutch
Actually I can get rid of previous and next car display page, because I've got it mapped to up and down HAT switch, but still it looks that I've got all necessary functions covered.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

The problem with numpads is that keyboard keys, unlike proper buttons, are too sensitive and are placed too close to each other, so it's too easy to press a key accidentally, let alone using gloves.

I agree, if you use gloves or race in a really competitive way, that may be a problem. However, in such case as mine, numpad and AutoHotkey work great. That really improved the way I play my racing games, especially F1 (it's fantastic to call you engineer by single keypress), but ACC too (direct access to all options, ignition, starter - all these immersive details, right?)

I know how cheap and imperfect it is, but I hope it's not bad to show another perspective.
I think that for casuals like me and taking into account amount of money spend on the stuff (around 10€ for numpad, 10€ for USB Hub and another 7-10€ for washers, screws, profiles and a wrench, which I missed) it can be really great add-on, if you're not so dedicated to spend 2-3x more.

 

[J.J.McClure]

Good morning.
You could use the Thrustmaster MFD's. They're even lit.
Available cheaply used. My pair costs me 30 Euro.
You can then even design your own background plate. 28 buttons on one MFD should be enough, right?
I have such an MFD on my rig.
Since I drive in VR and unfortunately there are no fully operable cockpits in VR yet, I think this is a good solution.
But I also use an old analog joystick without centering springs on the Y axis as a handbrake.

 

[BillGuy]

I’ll throw in another perspective, albeit one that is quite likely in the minority based on most people’s choice of computer peripherals.

I have always used full sized keyboards with num pads. As such, I already have things assigned to the numpad keys in my game titles. Acquiring an additional stand-alone USB numpad as a button box is only going to duplicate what I already have assigned on the keyboard, is it not?

This puts me back into the market for an actual “independent” HID device button box. While there are still plenty of choices, I don’t believe there is anything remotely approaching the cost of basic stand-alone numpads. Bummer, but we all know we’re in a niche product.

The thing that has irked me whenever I’ve looked into stand alone button boxes is that hardly any of them seem to be just...ummmmm...buttons! Pretty much every option I’ve come across also has multiple rotary encoders, toggle switches, etc… How about a button box that’s actually what the name implies, a box with just buttons.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

Well, If you spend 100-150€, having additional stuff like rotary switches or some fancy toggles isn't generally a bad thing

 

[BillGuy]

Well, If you spend 100-150€, having additional stuff like rotary switches or some fancy toggles isn't generally a bad thing

That is of course a totally valid point of view. My personal flip side to that PoV is "that could be another row of buttons."

And don't get me wrong, life is pretty good if this is my biggest issue with the botton box products that are out there.

 

[Elaphe]

I’ll throw in another perspective, albeit one that is quite likely in the minority based on most people’s choice of computer peripherals.

I have always used full sized keyboards with num pads. As such, I already have things assigned to the numpad keys in my game titles. Acquiring an additional stand-alone USB numpad as a button box is only going to duplicate what I already have assigned on the keyboard, is it not?

This puts me back into the market for an actual “independent” HID device button box. While there are still plenty of choices, I don’t believe there is anything remotely approaching the cost of basic stand-alone numpads. Bummer, but we all know we’re in a niche product.

The thing that has irked me whenever I’ve looked into stand alone button boxes is that hardly any of them seem to be just...ummmmm...buttons! Pretty much every option I’ve come across also has multiple rotary encoders, toggle switches, etc… How about a button box that’s actually what the name implies, a box with just buttons.

Making your own button box is very easy and not expensive at all, specially if you want something simple as you mentioned.

A plastic box for electronic assemblies: 15€

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B000LQGC3M?psc=1

A tiny encoder with lots of inputs: 20€

Interfaz Arcade Xin Mo 2 jugadores USB PC / PS3 / Raspberry

Interfaz Arcade para 2 jugadores con 13 botones de acción para el jugador 1 y 15 para el jugador 2. Compatible con Windows, PS3, Android, MAC y Raspberry Pi 1,2,3 y 4.

www.arcadexpress.com

10 metallic tactile buttons: 10€

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B0B3QJGNG7

A piece of black methacrylate + the milling service (cutting the buttons holes...): 20€ aprox.

A 3D printed stand: 15€ aprox.

Total: 70€

All you have to do is to install the buttons, wire them to the encoder, make a drill on the box for the cable, attach the methacrylate to the box with four screws and attach the box to the stand. You can optionally paint the methacrylate to avoid fingerprints (or wrap with with vinyl).

Yes it takes some some time and dedication, but hey, you'll have a nice and unique button box which will perform much much better than a keypad.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

Of course, it's hard to argue with the fact that either a ready-made or handmade button box will always be much better, more durable and definitely more stylish. It's a good idea to prepare one, especially with these nice encoders that don't require soldering

For me, however, it was still too expensive, considering my usage scenarios. It also seemed a bit too complicated/time consuming (ordering separate parts - first of all proper encoder, preparing stand/front plate model, ordering 3D prints, connecting everything together...).

Sure, looking for proper bars, screws and cheap mobile-phone holder, figuring out how to attach hem to my stand without drilling and learning how to use AHK was quite engaging too. But on the other hand - I'd need the same, or even more robust construction to mount a decent, serious button box. And, as you can see, for games like ACC or F1, ten buttons may not be enough I know they're not so expensive and there are encoders with much more outputs, but that would be really big box then.

Now I've achieved same functionality at a much lover cost. Less stylish and cool, but more than sufficient for mainly single player and rather weak sim racer (in each ACC hotlap challenge I;m somwhere in the middle of the rank or above...). Decent wheel is important (although I know that T300 is considered as a low-end nowadays), but spending additional 80€ for a few buttons?... it would be better to sell my T3PA, add 80€ and buy T3PM

But, I admit that I am thinking of a way to make the numpad's buttons more distinguishable. However, I wouldn't like to permanently damage the keyboard, and securely gluing something to the concaved buttons unfortunately requires rather strong glue. I thought about using washers on colored adhesive paper... but maybe some o-rings would be better?... They are flexible and you can easily get red, blue or green You can also buy domed stickers...

 

[Elaphe]

if you have problems with your keys being too sensitive, you can use AutoHotkey to fix that problem, for instance programming them to need, for instance, a tenth of a second or two tenths of a second for the activation. With that same code you can define two different actions for a short press or a long press. That way you can double the functions of your buttons. I use that idea for most of my buttons, with the long press assigned to less often used or more secondary functions.

Code sample:

$a::
KeyWait a
if A_TimeSinceThisHotkey > 700
{
Send 2
return
}
if A_TimeSinceThisHotkey > 100
{
Send 1
return
}
else
return