The cheapest button-box you can get – wired, wireless or Bluetooth numpad?

[Herr Pietrus]

I know how this topic looks like on message board for geeks who own huge ultra-wide curved monitors, professional load cell pedals with force feedback, niche direct-drive wheels with multiple rims, butt-kickers, electric belt tighteners, fans to simulate air flow…

… but I’m not good enough to build professional rig and don’t have enough money and space.

Still, I need more buttons than my T300 has and my keyboard is hard to reach when I play racing games so I decided to solve this problem in cheapest possible way – by purchasing an extra numpad to use it as button-box. However in all reviews on Amazon I’ve read that such devices in BT version enter sleep mode too quickly (after a couple of minutes) – so using them as a button-box seem to be impossible.

Is anyone here with a limited budget who successfully uses such device in BT version? Should I rather stick to the wired one? Which one to buy then? One of thousands of same-looking Chinese clones? Or something “branded” like A4Tech FK13 version (I remember that company from early twenties and its products were really fine then)

I assume than mixing wheel and keyboard controls won’t be a problem in Automobilista 2 as it isn’t in ACC, Project CARS and F1?

I know, there are cheap "arcade encoders" but you stil need some buttons, cables and actually much more space for the box, that must be drilled... too much hassle for now...
Unfortunately mechanical numpads are either rare or much more expensive...

 

[Neilski]

We certainly do have some members who think nothing of buying a high-end rig/wheel/GPU/etc...
However, trust me, there are plenty of members here (the majority of us, by far) who are trying to make their limited cash go as far as possible

 

[Elaphe]

Are the T300 buttons detected as a gaming device in Windows / control panel / gaming devices? In that case, you could use AutoHotkey to duplicate the number of functions of those buttons, for instance, for short or long keypress. Maybe then you wouldn't need another button box.

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

You could 3D print one. Here's the one I made with illuminated buttons:

 

[trichens]

Wired keypad with sticky labels or look up AM Studios who have plans you can purchase to make your own wired button box and then create one to suit your needs.
As long as you can do a little soldering it should be OK.
And as you have complete control over the design you can arrange the buttons and knobs however you wish.

EDIT: I'm a bit "nerdy" and use a toggle switch marked as Ignition mapped through JoyToKey to move the mouse cursor to where the Drive button is ( in rF2 ) and then left-click to start... like I say a bit "nerdy".

 

[stigs2cousin]

As Trevor said it´s not a big deal to build your own Button Box or even Cockpit plate with buttons and encoders

if

you already own the saw, drill and soldering iron needed.
But it also takes time.

So for the situation you describe I´d also go a for an USB numberpad and put stickers on it.

Another possibilty would be a Stream deck, I bought mine used fpr 80€
Check online if it works without hassle for your sim of choice.

My favorate AC (classic) is quite anal about the mode (windowed/not windowed) it´s in.
Normal keybord presses are always recognized, for the SD to work I have to alt/esc out.

Oh, and if you still keep your normal keyboard around you´ll probably have to use something like Joy2key to "differentiate" the numpad presses from normal keyboard presses.

 

[metalnwood]

You didn't mention how cheap is cheap...don't rule out a cheap second hand 7" tablet that has limitless possibilities for what and how many controls you can map with it using something like simhub.

 

[trichens]

Like this... Numpad
Although this one IS wireless.
Not sure why these would go to sleep after a couple of mins though.
A couple I looked at don't have any on/off switch so must rely on hitting a button to keep it active. so must wake-up quickly

 

[Botmeister]

Strange that a numpad, which basically is a keyboard with a disability, would enter sleep mode. I have been using BT keyboard and mouse for the simrig and have never experienced that. (Logitech with BT usb dongle). I've been using BT keyboards and mice for work for many years.

Personally, I don't trust Amazon and especially Amazon reviews. Find a cheap one elsewhere (with bluetooth dongle) and you're wallet is down EU 20 max. Worth the try I'd say.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I´m a little concerned with our "wire phobia" these days.

I think there are a lot of use cases where wireless only adds unnessecary complexity, failure modes and environmental impact.

In the case of a "button" device" I see only disadvantages in a wireless device, as it still needs an USB port and doesn´t have to be mobile.

 

[Botmeister]

I´m a little concerned with our "wire phobia" these days.

I think there are a lot of use cases where wireless only adds unnessecary complexity, failure modes and environmental impact.

In the case of a "button" device" I see only disadvantages in a wireless device, as it still needs an USB port and doesn´t have to be mobile.

Very much true. All my sim gear is wired except for K/M. And when given the choice, I prefer wired over wireless.

 

[Elaphe]

Even the mouse in my rig is wired.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Exactly.

Way more reliable as it does´t need a battery (and the cat can´t drag it away )

 

[Elaphe]

Exactly.

Way more reliable as it does´t need a battery (and the cat can´t drag it away )

Sure, the cable is a lifesaver for the mouse because a rig with motion and tactile is a dangerous place to rest.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

Wow, I didn't expect so many polite answers

Botmeister I've actually read such opinions about these numpads not only on Amazon, but also in some threads on Reddit. I don't know if they are different from regular keyboards but it would be a disaster if such numpad disabled in the middle of a race just when you wanted to switch you lights on - OK, perhaps not a disaster, but it would be distracting and would hamper intuitive steering.

AutoHotkey sounds interesting, but I'm currently using key-combinations in Euro Truck Simulator 2 on my gamepad and while remembering them for one game is OK, I'm afraid for a few I'd need some notes

Unfortunately don't have any tools, so even though I've seen there are encoders with cable ports that don't need soldering and cable sets for them, creating a case would be a problem (not 3D printed, cause you can order a print and I know a bit how to use FreeCAD - but 3D prints are expensive)

OK, unfortunately, I believed the reviews on Amazon and have already ordered a wired keyboard. And I've even already picked it up. It's the a4Tech I've mentioned - I preferred it to cheap no-name products.
It looks quite nice and I must admit that for a simple membrane design, it clicks very nice.

Now another question - can I use any simple passive USB HUB to connect T300 and that numpad to the PC with only one cable? I think that there will be enough bandwidth for them? (Oh, I wrote something about cheapest possible button box? )

And one more thing - you mentioned a tablet. Do you suggest that I could use old phone connected via BT as a dashboard or something like that in game supported by simhub app? Interesting.

 

[metalnwood]

And one more thing - you mentioned a tablet. Do you suggest that I could use old phone connected via BT as a dashboard or something like that in game supported by simhub app? Interesting.

yes, an old phone with wireless connected to your wifi will give you simhub dash's on your phone, it interfaces with the web browser.

 

[Botmeister]

And all of a sudden it hit me. These bluetooth numpads could possibly go into sleep mode because they're suspended by Windows.

In Device Manager, for each USB device and Bluetooth Controller, go to the tab Power Management and deactivate power going off automatically.

Did you perhaps read anything about that in those Reddit topics? Anyway, deactivating this on your usb/bt devices is good practice for your simrig.... for both wired and wireless devices.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

No, people claim, that power management settings in Windows does not help, it's behavior hard-coded in the firmware.

Still, I won't rather send my a4Tech back, buttons work really nice and I'm afraid that in cheap, flat BT keypad they will click much worse.

But guys, you could have warn me more precisely, that I won't be able to use some buttons in games such CARS 1/2 or AMS2 without AutoHotkey or similar soft...

I thought that the problem with "differentiating" numpad presses from normal keyboard presses occurs when keyboard does not actually work in numpad mode (some people reported that their cheap BT keypads send number codes same as the keys of the main keyboard block), but the situation is different... For example CARS 1 recognizes "NumPad" keys and executes the commands I've assigned to them (I've seen some topics where people said that games based on MadnessEngine does not recognize numpads at all...), but in the same time it still moves the camera, even if I change commands for looking left/right etc. OK, I can disable NumLock, but I already use Insert/Delete/PageUp/PageDown to control ReShade...

So, AutoHotkey is the best option?
(Yeah, I can rebind ReShade controls too... )

And one more, important question about USB Hubs mentioned earlier. Are there some traps on these field? USB 2.0 with it's bandwidth will be enough? I see that again cheapest options seems risky (some people write about slow operation/slow hardware recognizing and connecting process). I think about the hub also to do something with cables (now I have one, with keypad will be two hanging on the wheelbase on BluTack and Velcro )

 

[stigs2cousin]

I have two USB hubs on my rig, one powered and one passive because I have too many input devices

I don´t trust them completely, so the important devices (pedals/steering wheel) are connected directly to the PC.

With the other devices ( shifters, DDU, LED flags, USB controllerboards for the cockpit, similar button box, Stream Deck aso) it´s hit and miss.

Some can be daisy chained into the passive hub which connects to the powered hub, others have to be in the powered hub directly.

TLDR;

connect your wheel and pedals directly to the PC, for the USB hub take a medium tier powered one. The chance everything works out of the box is higher.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

The problem is I need it (if at all) for a wheel and numpad only, I have nothing else. If USB 2.0 is OK (wheel is powered, so it doesn't need power from USB, as I assume, and numpad definitely don't need much than 100mA... I'm not sure if this limit applies to 2.0 HUB connected to 3.0 port) I think I'll risk some cheap USB 2.0 Unitek for 5€, there is no point to pay more, because otherwise I could rather have chosen potentially better mechanical numpad.... and if it introduces delays in communication or doesn't work, I will not feel sorry for the lost money.

As I understand you don't have any cheap HUB, right?
But does your lack of trust have any basis? Did you have some problems with yours?

BTW - I see that also MS PowerToys have some module to rebind keys. But app is bigger, so I'll rather look fot AutoHotkey