Steering wheel problem, request for advice

[GeekyDeaks]

Cheers lads, Is aDD wheel worth it for me I have a buggered left shoulder and didn't even run my CSR wheel at anything over 80%.

It's a tricky one, but with it comes the smoothness and fidelity of a DD, so I'd still be inclined to recommend one if you play regularly.

The bang per buck of something like the entry wheelbases in the Moza range seem very tempting, I'd also be inclined to look on eBay for a second hand 5Nm CSL DD since the latest ClubSport DD started shipping last month.

Lots of choice as you are on PC though

 

[Damage Inc]

First, YS06-240250D available from ebay should be plug and play replacement.
Second, CSR elite pedals are compatible with CSL DD using PS2/RJ12 adapter
CSL DD wheel base provides more refined force feedback than Forza CSR
with game compatibility. CSL DD wheel bases are also available on ebay.

can't find any direct replacement power supplies in the UK.

 

[Damage Inc]

It's a tricky one, but with it comes the smoothness and fidelity of a DD, so I'd still be inclined to recommend one if you play regularly.

The bang per buck of something like the entry wheelbases in the Moza range seem very tempting, I'd also be inclined to look on eBay for a second hand 5Nm CSL DD since the latest ClubSport DD started shipping last month.

Lots of choice as you are on PC though

Almost too much choice!!!

 

[stigs2cousin]

Unless someone practically gifts you a belt drive go for a DD.

Belts are obsolete technology since the prices for DDs have come down.

Driving wise it doesn´t matter for Truck Sims which have no real telemetry/FFB.
All Racing Sims will improve greatly even with low output power.
It´s about agility and fidelity which the lag and elasticity of a Belt Drive just can´t match
(I had a T300 before my DD. )

 

[Neilski]

I havn't, I presume there's some sort of capacitor in there that needs to fully drain before risking anything like that?

There will be capacitors inside the PSU which could be hazardous if you open the unit, but to be honest I'd recommend just checking the fuse in the 13A plug. If the fuse is fine (which is fairly likely to be the case) then you can conclude that the PSU is indeed dead in some way and unless you have the expertise to go further I'd take another path.
Do you have an easy way to test a fuse? If not, you can simply replace it with a fresh fuse of the same rating (e.g. it might be a 3 amp fuse; it really shouldn't be a 13 amp fuse!) and retry.

 

[Damage Inc]

Unless someone practically gifts you a belt drive go for a DD.

Belts are obsolete technology since the prices for DDs have come down.

Driving wise it doesn´t matter for Truck Sims which have no real telemetry/FFB.
All Racing Sims will improve greatly even with low output power.
It´s about agility and fidelity which the lag and elasticity of a Belt Drive just can´t match
(I had a T300 before my DD. )

Thing is DD ares still twice the price of belt wheels (usually with the cost of a wheel being extra)and I'm disabled on benefits caring for a disabled wife so money is tight, I have to factor in bang per buck as the most important factor me.

 

[Damage Inc]

There will be capacitors inside the PSU which could be hazardous if you open the unit, but to be honest I'd recommend just checking the fuse in the 13A plug. If the fuse is fine (which is fairly likely to be the case) then you can conclude that the PSU is indeed dead in some way and unless you have the expertise to go further I'd take another path.
Do you have an easy way to test a fuse? If not, you can simply replace it with a fresh fuse of the same rating (e.g. it might be a 3 amp fuse; it really shouldn't be a 13 amp fuse!) and retry.

I checked the plug side by powering up a portable CD player and it worked fine so the issue is defintely in the Power supply. Is it safe to assume the Power supply saved the Wheel so I could just get that replacement power supply I posted earlier in the thread? (at the mo I'm leaning to keeping my old wheel going). But I'm awful at making decisions like this, on one side I want a shiney new thing to play with, on the other I have to be carefull with my money!

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Is it safe to assume the Power supply saved the Wheel so I could just get that replacement power supply I posted earlier in the thread?

I think that is a fairly safe assumption. I have had several power supplies fail and none in a way that supplied an over voltage to the device.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Under these circumstances I would come back to my first idea:

order the PSU , unpack carefully only as much as necessary for quick test.
If the wheel powers up, you´re in luck, if not cry (or curse, that´s a personal decision ) and send the PSU back.

 

[Neilski]

Yes, and even if returning the PSU were to be a problem, it's so cheap (relative to the cost of any other options) that it's worth a shot.

 

[Damage Inc]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I still need to know that all I do is set the dial on that Power supply to 24v and that will be ok for my wheel?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I still need to know that all I do is set the dial on that Power supply to 24v and that will be ok for my wheel?

From looking at the manual and what you wrote before, yes I think setting it to 24V and figuring out which type of plug is required is all you need to do

 

[Neilski]

From looking at the manual and what you wrote before, yes I think setting it to 24V and figuring out which type of plug is required is all you need to do

Agreed.
I'd be pretty nervous about using a supply like that (in fact I just wouldn't do it) if the maximum voltage was higher than the voltage my expensive wheel needed, but since the supply is only able to go up to 24 V, I reckon it's nice and safe

 

[Damage Inc]

Many Thanks lads, I've also found a UK site that just deals with power supplies so I've contcted them with the details of my old power supply to see if there's a direct replacement in their stock I can get.