Steering wheel problem, request for advice

[Damage Inc]

I was just getting back into ACC and finally getting some useage out of recently bought DLC when my wheel failed. It's a Fanatec Forza CSR with CSR elite pedals. I'm certain it's just the power supply as the light no longer lights up on the Power supply, but struggling to find where to get a replacement (UK). It's a:

Model: YS06-240250D
Input: 100-240V-50/60Hz 1.5A Max
Output: 24V = 2.5A

Or seeing as I have over 2500hours with that wheel and it's VERY notchy in the middle, is it time for a new one? I have a budget of 400-500, are there any recommendations? It'll be used for AC/ACC/ETS2/ATS/RF2/R3E/PC2.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Normally I´d say "contact support" but postings about F. in this Forum don´t give much hope there.

Short term solution would be to get a spare power supply from a vendor with good return policy. Maybe someting with a little head room in output amperage?

In the longer run I´d check if the pedals can be used as standalone unit, meaning connected directly to the PC.
Then your budget could into a wheelbase first and things could escalate later

 

[Damage Inc]

Normally I´d say "contact support" but postings about F. in this Forum don´t give much hope there.

Short term solution would be to get a spare power supply from a vendor with good return policy. Maybe someting with a little head room in output amperage?

In the longer run I´d check if the pedals can be used as standalone unit, meaning connected directly to the PC.
Then your budget could into a wheelbase first and things could escalate later

The wheel is discontinued anyway, pedals plug into the wheel so no go there.

 

[Damage Inc]

Normally I´d say "contact support" but postings about F. in this Forum don´t give much hope there.

Short term solution would be to get a spare power supply from a vendor with good return policy. Maybe someting with a little head room in output amperage?

In the longer run I´d check if the pedals can be used as standalone unit, meaning connected directly to the PC.
Then your budget could into a wheelbase first and things could escalate later

Oh..... regarding the power supply comment about amperage headroom...I found this one.....it's 6amp, would that be too much as the blown one is 2.5amp

Power supply

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I have a budget of 400-500, are there any recommendations?

I think you can afford some entry level DD with that budget, like Moza for instance.

What's on the market guide, a bit dated but still relevant.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Oh..... regarding the power supply comment about amperage headroom...I found this one.....it's 6amp, would that be too much as the blown one is 2.5amp

Power supply

That should be fine.

Regarding to pedals:

you don´t by accident still have the USB cable the manual mentions?

 

[Damage Inc]

That should be fine.

Regarding to pedals:

you don´t by accident still have the USB cable the manual mentions?

Crap it came with a USB cable? I've had this thing for years setup and had no idea, I'll have to search my random cables box!!!!

 

[Neilski]

I'm certain it's just the power supply as the light no longer lights up on the Power supply, but struggling to find where to get a replacement (UK). It's a:

Model: YS06-240250D
Input: 100-240V-50/60Hz 1.5A Max
Output: 24V = 2.5A

Did you already check the fuse in the 13A plug? There may also be a fuse within the unit, but opening up a power supply isn't entirely safe for the inexperienced.

 

[Damage Inc]

Did you already check the fuse in the 13A plug? There may also be a fuse within the unit, but opening up a power supply isn't entirely safe for the inexperienced.

I havn't, I presume there's some sort of capacitor in there that needs to fully drain before risking anything like that?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

I havn't, I presume there's some sort of capacitor in there that needs to fully drain before risking anything like that?

Yeah, just leave it unplugged for a few minutes. I'm assuming it's a sealed brick? If so, then you'll probably be safe in the time it takes to get inside without trashing it anyway. I have got inside one before by leaving a solvent on the joints for a few minutes to dissolve the glue (I think I actually used petrol)

The replacement PSU you found should be fine. The amperage rating is actually a maximum at which it can reliably sustain the voltage you have set (above that and it's likely the supplied voltage will drop). It will only deliver what the device is pulling (take a look at Ohm's law if you are bored)

 

[stigs2cousin]

Yeah, just leave it unplugged for a few minutes. I'm assuming it's a sealed brick? If so, then you'll probably be safe in the time it takes to get inside without trashing it anyway. I have got inside one before by leaving a solvent on the joints for a few minutes to dissolve the glue (I think I actually used petrol)

I´m not questioning your knowledge/advice, but is it worth the hassle?

I strongly support the repair/don´t replace approach. On the other hand these things are not designed to be repaired and I´m doubtfull if it´s wise for a lay person to fuzz with 220V as it poses a fire hazzard (at least potentially)

In my day job I´ve seen too many lay person "repairs" which put them and others in danger.
("the internet" can be a dangerous source for brake repairs, especially without any previous training in that regard)

I´m probably too cautious (read chicken) here but I would not fuzz with highly flammable liquids on electrical devices and I would not prompt others to do so.

 

[Damage Inc]

I´m not questioning your knowledge/advice, but is it worth the hassle?

I strongly support the repair/don´t replace approach. On the other hand these things are not designed to be repaired and I´m doubtfull if it´s wise for a lay person to fuzz with 220V as it poses a fire hazzard (at least potentially)

In my day job I´ve seen too many lay person "repairs" which put them and others in danger.
("the internet" can be a dangerous source for brake repairs, especially without any previous training in that regard)

I´m probably too cautious (read chicken) here but I would not fuzz with highly flammable liquids on electrical devices and I would not prompt others to do so.

Yeah, just leave it unplugged for a few minutes. I'm assuming it's a sealed brick? If so, then you'll probably be safe in the time it takes to get inside without trashing it anyway. I have got inside one before by leaving a solvent on the joints for a few minutes to dissolve the glue (I think I actually used petrol)

The replacement PSU you found should be fine. The amperage rating is actually a maximum at which it can reliably sustain the voltage you have set (above that and it's likely the supplied voltage will drop). It will only deliver what the device is pulling (take a look at Ohm's law if you are bored)

Cheers both, I'm torn now between getting that replacement Power supply and or getting a TM T300 RS GT.....I must admit I was getting narked at how notchy my CSR was.....decisions decisions!!!

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Do you think you would sell the old one and be able to at least recover the cost of the replacement PSU? If not and you play fairly regularly, I'd probably put the money towards the new wheel/pedals.

 

[GeekyDeaks]

I´m probably too cautious (read chicken) here but I would not fuzz with highly flammable liquids on electrical devices and I would not prompt others to do so.

I agree. I was just in 'answer the question mode' this morning, but I should have put the 'not a good idea' caveat on this one for definite.

 

[Damage Inc]

Do you think you would sell the old one and be able to at least recover the cost of the replacement PSU? If not and you play fairly regularly, I'd probably put the money towards the new wheel/pedals.

It'll probaly go in the loft with all my old wheels!

 

[stigs2cousin]

The T300 won´t be much of an upgrade, nowadays the price difference to "a real" (Direct Drive) wheel isn´t that big.

The pedals to the T300 are utter crap as they are the cheapest spring/potentiometer possible.

Did you find the USB cable?
Then you could use the CSR pedals with a new wheel base, at least untill the update bug bites again. (that is if you are on PC, stand alone doesn´t work on consoles.)

Edith:
from the manual it seems the controler box has an USB B port, so it should be easy to find a cable for a test

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Might be worth checking out a second hand CSL DD too as I think you can use the pedals with it:

CSR Elite pedals with CSL-DD wheel base

Hi, I have an old (and EXCELLENT) CSR Elite pedals which I gave to someone. He would like to order the CSL-DD wheel (playing on the XBOX).

forum.fanatec.com

EDIT: I was assuming you still need console compatibility - USB cable is far simpler

 

[Damage Inc]

Cheers lads, Is aDD wheel worth it for me I have a buggered left shoulder and didn't even run my CSR wheel at anything over 80%.

Found an old cable and can confirm my pedals work fine

No need for Console compatibility anymore (I did buy the CSR because it worked on PS3, Xbox 360 and PC), but I havn't bought consoles since my PS3 and 360!

What's the best DD wheel then at a reasonable price that works with all the games I mention in the 1st post?

 

[Damage Inc]

one more question If I get that new power supply I just set it to 24V on the dial, is that right?

 

[blekenbleu]

one more question If I get that new power supply I just set it to 24V on the dial, is that right?

First, YS06-240250D available from ebay should be plug and play replacement.
Second, CSR elite pedals are compatible with CSL DD using PS2/RJ12 adapter
CSL DD wheel base provides more refined force feedback than Forza CSR
with game compatibility. CSL DD wheel bases are also available on ebay.