Skoda 130 RS

Cars Skoda 130 RS 1.9

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I wonder if it's something related to a specific CSP setting. The actual issue isn't CM locking up, but rather AC itself CTDs upon clicking Exit, so the log likely stops before catching whatever the problem is. When I get back to my PC, I'll try running AC from Steam instead of CM and see if it happens there. The previous version didn't have this issue
 
I wonder if it's something related to a specific CSP setting. The actual issue isn't CM locking up, but rather AC itself CTDs upon clicking Exit, so the log likely stops before catching whatever the problem is. When I get back to my PC, I'll try running AC from Steam instead of CM and see if it happens there. The previous version didn't have this issue

Try to turn shader patch off in CM and then try, if it will work without CSP, check the "extension/config/cars" directory and there should be "tmm_skoda_130rs.ini" file and delete it, or delete the "extension" dir in mod's directory, turn CSP on and try. BTW which version of CSP are you using?
 
With refracting headlight config
refracting_test.jpg
 
I've spent couple of hours reworking the headlights because I wanted to use this refracting feature on them, but in the end it was good only for screenshots, it is not usable in VR and in normal race it can look a little strange sometimes. So I decided not to include this feature in the CSP config :)
 
I see you guys made the rear trailing arm using STRUT. If it's really a trailing arm and doesn't actually behave like a strut in that geometry, I'd suggest you use DWB and graph the camber and toe curve properly, then lower the assembly to reach the real roll center, adjust for anti-forces in AC then try to match curves/whatever you deem important.

But if it's really a normal (semi) trailing and you did it like this, I guess it's cute. :roflmao:
I could not properly explain on my review why the car fells a little off, but you probably made it. I know that the real car is very good to control, but the AC version fells like it's too good for a 1975 car. To tell the truth, it drives better than actual racing cars, and I really doubt that the real car is that good, specially a factory version (as @Fuzo mentioned).

PS: I'm posting it because Fuzo questioned my review and I couldn't reply there. I really wish the best for this mod and author and am glad for the work spent here. Hope my post is read as a positive critic.

Cheers!
 
A good strut is better than a trailing arm IMO, so maybe the strut has more favourable behavior, and it should have less rear grip/more variance in rear grip to feel right. I haven't looked at it in detail, but probably the RC is too low, and the camber and toe variance isn't as much, so there's more grip and less variation of grip.

It's just a job for someone who knows how to do it. If they want to improve it, I suggest to look at my Yellowbird, E30 and Singer rear suspension geometry and graph out the curves to see what it is doing.
 
Hi Fuzo,

again, thanks for updating this lovely little pest!
But! ...There is a question that haunts me: the car hits vmax quite fast, so (if I may ask) why not putting a longest gear set or another couple of final gear ratios (a 10/34 works perfectly, 218/219 km/h as from 'real' specs).

Well, not that it matters, this is one of my favorites 'babes' in AC. Love it!
FrankZ
 
Try to turn shader patch off in CM and then try, if it will work without CSP, check the "extension/config/cars" directory and there should be "tmm_skoda_130rs.ini" file and delete it, or delete the "extension" dir in mod's directory, turn CSP on and try. BTW which version of CSP are you using?

Sorry for the delay (been quite busy) but I finally got around to trying this. Using the latest CSP (0.1.36) and I still have the issue after removing the extension folder from the car folder as well as "tmm_skoda_130rs.ini" in "extension/config/cars/loaded". The game will exit normally with CSP disabled, so I can definitely see this as a CSP-related issue. Everything with the car functions properly - it's just the game crashing upon exit that's the issue.
 
@FrankN2O the gearbox which would go 220 would be very long for 4 speed gearbox I guess, the engine would suffer :) The number you've got is probably from some internet car profile and I doubt it is accurate. The gearbox has been set according to data from factory documentation, you can hit almost 200 with longest preset, but not more. This car always had 4 speed gearbox, 5 speed gearbox was used just for testing, maybe the number comes from this version. But this gearbox was not used in the final version because of some homologation issues. I am still talking about factory version. This car was heavily modified by its users, you wouldn't find 2 same cars back then.

@Bloodflame this issue is hard to replicate so I don't know how to help you, I can only recommend to go to CSP discord and ask there.

@Jugulador thank you for your concerns but the issue you described is only your subjective opinion and I won't try to convince you otherwise.

@Leonardo Ratafiá thanks for the effort but those cars on your videos are rally and hillclimb versions, our mod is track version and behaves slightly different :)

@Kyuubeey thank you for the offer once again but we and most of the people who are actualy driving this mod are happy with it and we don't feel that it needs any improvements physics-wise. We can't satisfy everybody :)

Tonight we are having a community race, 34 cars on the grid, you can check the stream on Joshuax VGOS channel :)
 
@Jugulador thank you for your concerns but the issue you described is only your subjective opinion and I won't try to convince you otherwise.
It's not that subjective... I've got the real car schematics (that, of course, you also got) and they match @Kyuubeey 's analysis. But if "most of the people who are actualy driving this mod are happy with it and we don't feel that it needs any improvements physics-wise" them there is nothing else to discuss... after all, most people that play any Forza and Gran Turismo are happy and don't fell that it needs any improvements physics-wise.

Thanx for the mod!
 
@Jugulador I still don't know what do you find off. The rear has too much grip? Or what? Can you specify it? I am curious. Like "the car is to good for '75" doesn't tell me much.
 
@Jugulador I still don't know what do you find off. The rear has too much grip? Or what? Can you specify it? I am curious. Like "the car is to good for '75" doesn't tell me much.
To simplify: The car behaves as a modern racing Miata and should behave more like a racing Hilman Imp.

The suspension could be better the way that @Kyuubeey described. I couldn't explain it better, but fells like you are ignoring the lad's posts since this topic's page one and focusing too much on compliments.
 
I didn't take a close look at the suspension, but I remember it being a STRUT rear, and I've tried but STRUT is only really good for MacPherson and Chapman struts; I believe trailing arms and semi-trailing arms are to be done with DWB. It just gives the best result. If you make the curve somewhat right, then something else will be too wrong.

Anyway, if they are happy with it, I can cut them slack, because a rework would mean, well, more work. I'll also be honest and say that I don't think their physics team actually knows how to make a STA. :redface:

If you were to ask me how to make it better, I would still say make a STA with DWB. Unless of course it really is a strut, then ignore me.
 
Like I said, my E30, CTR, Singer all have pretty well made STA rear suspensions. You guys are free to DL them, open them and look at it or tweak it. I can give you the curves for them if you want and maybe some help if you catch me at a good time. :thumbsup:

If there don't exist curves and good pictures for the suspension, it can be a little difficult to make it very good, but luckily most STA (That I have seen) are very similar in design.

With just a few pictures you should be able to guess it pretty well, if you use an existing geometry as a guide and know about what it should come out as. If you know the sweep angle (Angle between the inner and outer chassis point) then you can also calculate the camber/toe angle vs trailing arm angle, so even if you don't have curves, you can do a lot with just math.

The motion ratio for it isn't calculated easily like in normal DWB suspensions, you will probably need at least a picture, and it would be possible to guess pretty well from that if it's a good one, but the best would be a clear picture from above, like a drawing. You can then get a pretty good MR estimate with some geometry.

Of course, the best would be a roll center, curves and MR from the manufacturer or from a good measurement, but I don't know if it exists for this car. For my car, I had all of those + good pictures, so it can be more difficult for you, maybe. Even an approximation is not so bad though.

Also I don't suggest to use the KS ones as a base: the E30 and CTR are just wrong and the RSR also is different from a real 930 STA.
 

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